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Class 3 F a2 J 
Book_ 






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Copyright N". 



COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT. 



Ube IRural Science Series 

Edited by L. H, BAILEY 



THE TRAINING AND BREAKING 
OF HORSES 



Elje Eural cScicncc Scries 

The Soil. 

The Spraying of Plants. 

Milk and its Products. 

The Fertility of the Land. 

The Principles of Fruit-Growing. 

Bush-Fruits. 

Fertilizers. 

The Principles of Agriculture. 15th Ed. 

Irrigation and Drainage. 

The Farmstead. 

Rural Wealth and Welfare. 

The Principles of Vegetable-Gardening. 

Farm Poultry. 

The Feeding of Animals. 

The Farmer's Business Handbook. 

The Diseases of Animals. 

The Horse. 

How TO Choose a Farm. 

Forage Crops. 

Bacteria in Relation to Country Life. 

The Nursery-Book. 

Plant-Breeding. 4th Ed. 

The Forcing-Book. 

The PRUNiNG-Bt)c>K. 

Fruit-Growing in Arid Regions. 

Rural Hygiene. 

Dry-Farming. 

Law for the American F.\rmer. 

F.VRM Boys and Girls. 

The Tr.vining and Breaking of Horses. 

Others in preparation. 



THE 

TRAINING AND BREAKING 

OF HORSES 



BY 
MERRITT W. HARPER 

ASSISTANT PROFESSOR OF ANIMAL HUSBANDRY 
NEW YORK STATE COLLEGE OF AGRICULTURE 

AT CORNELL UNIVERSITY 
AUTHOR OF "manual OF FARM ANIMALS " 



Ncto gork 

THE MACMILLAN COMPANY 

1912 

All rights reserved 



Cj 



< 



-J. 



41 



"b 



Copyright, 1912, 
By the MACMILLAN COMPANY. 



Set up and electrotyped. Published March, 1912. 



Noriuooli }3rfB8 

J. S. Gushing Co. — Berwick & Smith Co. 

Norwood, Mass., U.S.A. 



4> 



S& CI. A 8 01) 53 1) 



PREFACE 

The horse occupies a unique position because he 
is used as man's principal beast of burden and is con- 
stantly associated with him in the performance of his 
daily work. This labor and association establishes 
a close relationship. The effectiveness with which 
the work is performed, and perhaps success, depend 
on their mutual understanding. In performing this 
work it becomes necessary to trust the horse. This 
trust is often great, and the safety of the master will 
depend largely on the understanding he has with his 
horse. 

Since the effectiveness of the horse and the safety 
of the master and his family depend so largely upon 
the understanding between man and horse, it seems 
worth while to give the methods of establishing agree- 
able relationships careful consideration. It has been 
with a view of aiding to promote this that the present 
volume is written. This is done with the thought 
that the usefulness of the horse depends on his being 
readily subservient to his master's will, and an attempt 
is made to set forth the methods that are most likely 
to bring this about. 

Beginning with the foal, each class of horse is con- 
sidered, and a separate chapter is devoted to tlie 



vi Preface 

education of the more common classes. Special atten- 
tion is given to the training and subduing of wild 
horses, as well as to overcoming whims and vicious 
habits, which often render a horse useless and some- 
times dangerous. Many appliances for accomplishing 
this are described. 

While the book is written from a practical point 
of view, the writer has in mind filling a need met in 
the classroom, where, owing to lack of time, it is not 
possible to consider details sufficiently to enable the 
student to take up the practical work of training horses 
To facilitate this part of the work, and to avoid repeti- 
tion, free use is made of cross references. 

Recognizing the incompleteness of such a work, the 
writer will be glad to correspond with those into whose 
hands this book may fall concerning difficulties in the 
training of horses, and also to receive suggestions that 
will aid in perfecting the horse's education. 

M. AV. HARPER. 

Ithaca, New York, 
January 29, 1912. 



CONTENTS 



CHAPTER I 

The Horse and his Master .... 

The Horse and his Intelligence 

Horses' intelligence often overestimated . 
The horse has a good memory . 

Training by Means of the Special Senses 

The sense of feeling requires patient training- 
Train the sight to objects of fear 
Do not confuse the horse through the hearing 
Sense of smell also used in training . 
Sense of taste indirectly used in training . 

The Objects of Horse Training 

Methods of Horse Training .... 

Selecting a method 

Rapid methods vs. slow methods 
Rapid methods permanently effective 

Safety in Horse Training 

Make the Horse understand and respond to Orders 
Signals ....... 

Exact implicit obedience from the horse . 

Reward and Punishment in Training Horses . 
The use of the whip 

Requirements in the Trainer .... 
Personal influence of the trainer 

General Considerations in Horse Training 
vii 



and 



PAGES 

1-25 
2 
3 

4 
7 
8 
9 
9 

10 
10 
11 
11 
12 
12 
13 
U 

15 
16 
17 
19 
20 
21 



Vlll 



Contents 



CHAPTER II 

PAGES 

Training the Foal 26-43 

Age to begin Training the Foal 27 

Catching and Handling the Foal 28 

Catch a foal around both ends . . , . .29 
Foals are naturally very timid . . . . .30 
Secure the foal's confidence while young ... 31 

Avoid confusing the foal 32 

Make first lessons shoi't and simple .... 33 
Teach the young foals useful things only ... 33 

Teaching the Foal to Lead 3-t 

Choose a strong, well-fitting halter .... 35 

The loin-hitch 37 

Teaching the Foal to Back 38 

Driving the Foal with Lines ...... 40 

Teach the foal " whoa," "get irp," and '' back" . 40 
Value of Early Training 42 



CHAPTER III 

Training the Work Horse 

Age to train Horses for Work . 
Train the Horse within an Inclosure 
Examine the Horse before Training 
Handle the Horse before Training . 
Training the Horse to. Lead 

The tail-hitch .... 

The quarters-hitcli 
Teach the Horse to follow when Loose 
Training to the Uses of the Bit 

Importance of a good moutli 

Bitting the horse 

The bitting-liarness . 
Driving the Horse with Lines . 



44-107 
46 
48 
49 
50 
51 
52 
53 
54 
56 
57 
57 
60 
63 



Contents 



IX 



Teaching the command " whoa " 

Teaching the command " get up " 

Teaching the command "back " 
Harnessing, Hitching and Driving the Horse 

Poling the horse .... 

Harnessing the liorse 

Hitching single ..... 

Training-cart ..... 

Familiarize the horse with the vehicle 

Teaching the command "steady" 

Backing the vehicle .... 

Train the horse to come under the shafts 

Caressing with the whip . 

Hitching double .... 

Training the Horse to Objects of Fear 

" Family-broke " .... 

Pony for children .... 
Train the Horse to walk Fast . 
Train the Horse for Heavy Draft 
Training Horses to make Leaders . 

Teaching the commands " haw," " gee " and " y 
Choosing a Vocabulary for the Work Horse 
Gentling the Feet for Shoeing . 
Training' to Mount ..... 



PAGES 

65 
67 
67 
68 
69 
72 
74 
74 
77 
80 
80 
82 
83 
84 
85 
90 
91 
91 
93 
97 
97 
99 
101 
106 



CHAPTER IV 

Training the Trotter, Coacher and Roadster 

Age to begin Training 

Method of Training while Young 

The training yard 

Plan for training the young colt 

Exercising on small track . 

Do not tire the colt . 
Early Training in Harness 



108-149 
109 
110 
111 
112 
113 
115 
118 



Contents 













PAGES 


Study individual peculiarities 121 


Training the Two- and Three-year-old . 




. 123 


Daily Program for a Horse in Training . 






. 125 


Training for the Race 






. 127 


Preparing for the race 






. 129 


Driving 






. 129 


Improving the Action . . . - 






. 132 


Bitting to improve action .> 






. 134 


Shoeing to improve action 






. 139 


Conditioning to improve action 






. U2 


Injurious Results of Faulty Action . 






. 143 


Over-reaching, forging and clicking 






. 143 


Interfering, striking, cutting and brushing 


. 145 


Exercise contributes to Action 


. 147 


CHAPTER V 




Equipment for Training a Saddle Horse 






. 151 


The riding bridle 








151 


The saddle 








151 


Whip and spurs .... 








154 


Mounting Horse for First Time 








1.55 


Gaits of the Saddle Horse Described 








158 


The walk 








159 


The trot . 










160 


The canter . 










IHO 


The rack . 










l(i3 


The running walk 










1(34 


The fox trot 










165 


The slow pace . 










165 


The jump . 










166 


Classes of Saddle Horses 










167 


Training to the Gaits 










168 


The walk . 


, 








168 



Contents 



XI 



The trot 170 

The canter . 171 

The running walk ....... 172 

Fox trot 173 

The slow pace ." 173 

The rack 173 

The jump 174 

Training to stand . 176 

Training Horses for the Army ...... 177 

The cavalry horse ....... 178 

The scouting horse ....... 178 

Picketing 179 

Training Saddle Horses for Special Work . . . 179 

Polo game 179 

High-school gaits 181 

Circus tricks . 183 



CHAPTER VI 



Training Wild and Subduing Vicious Horses 


186-245 


Temperament in the Horse .... 


. 187 


Training and Subduing Appliances 










188 


Rope halter 










189 


Yankee bridle 












189 


Yankee bridle modified 












190 


War bridle . 












191 


War bridle modified . 












192 


Excelsior bridle . 












193 


Pulley bridle 












193 


Pulley bridle modified 












195 


Hackamore bridle 












196 


Cavesson halter . 












196 


Lip-twitch . 












197 


Noose-twitch 












197 



xu 



Contents 









PAGES 


Halter-twitch 198 


Headstall-twitch .... 






199 


Bridle-twitch 






200 


Reariiig-twitch 






200 


Wooden-gag .... 






200 


The guy rope 






201 


Combination bridle . . 






201 


Kicking strap .... 






202 


Kicking reins .... 






202 


Kicking harness .... 






201 


Self-punishing harness 






201 


Hobbles 






206 


Rarey's leg-strap 






207 


Rarey's safety harness 






208 


Rarey's throwing harness . 






212 


Rope throwing .... 






216 


Galvayne's training harness 






219 


Shackles 






221 


Straight-jacket . . ' . 






221 


Training the Wild or Stubborn Horse 






223 


Catching a wild horse 






223 


Haltering a loose horse 






227 


Gentling the wild horse 






229 


Teaching the wild horse to lead 






231 


Teaching the wild horse the uses of 


tlie bit a 


nd tc 




drive with lines 






233 


Teaching the wild horse to drive in 


larness 




234 


Training the wild horse to unfainil 


iar oliject 


s auc 




to noise . . . . . 






237 


Subduing the Vicious Horse 






241 



CHAPTER YII 
Outdoor Vicf:s and Wiinis . -. . . . 216-285 
Outdoor Vices, their Cause and how to overcome Them 249 
Balking 249 



Contents 



Xlll 



• 


PAGES 


Jibbing 


. 252 


Kicking 


. 254 


Shying . 


. 257 


Running away 


. 260 


Running back ...... 


.- 262 


Difficult to back ...... 


. 263 


Rearing and plunging .... 


. 264 


Breaking and prancing .... 


. 265 


Switching tail 


. 265 


Tail over line ...... 


. 268 


Halter-pulling 


. 269 


Unsteady under whip and spur . 


. 273 


Difficult to mount ..... 


. 274 


Buck-jumping 


. . 276 


Rearing 


. 276 


Jumping fences ...... 


. 277 


Outdoor Whims, their Cause and how to overcome ' 


rhem 278 


Tongue-lolling 


. 278 


Striking lips ...... 


. 279 


Grasping bit 


. 279 


Gnashing teeth 


. 280 


Tossing and shaking the head . 


. 280 


Lugging 


. 281 


Boring 


. 281 


Crowding and pulling away 


. 282 


Stripping bridle ...... 


. 283 


Refusing to stand over .... 


. 284 


Troublesome to catch .... 


. 285 



CHAPTER VIII 

Stable Vices and Whi.ms 286-316 

Stable Alices, their Cause and How to Overcome Them 286 



Refusing admission into stall 
Difficult to groom 



286 

288 



XIV 



Contents 







PAGES 


Difficult to harness 


. 290 


Difficult to bridle 




. 291 


Difficult to crupper 




. 292 


Biting 




. 292 


Striking 




. 294 


Kicking in stable 




. 29.5 


Hanging back in stall 




. 297 


Difficult to lead into a doorway 




. 298 


Cribbing 




. 299 


Wind-sucking .... 




. 300 


Difficult to shoe .... 




. 300 


Stable Whims, their Cause and How to o 


vercortie 


rheni 306 


Rolling 




. 306 


Tearing blankets 




. 307 


Stripping the halter . 




. 308 


Pawing with the forefeet . 




. 309 


Rubbing the tail 




. 310 


Rubbing harness 




. 311 


Lying down cow-fashion . 




. 311 


Lying down in harness 




. 312 


Chewing tie-strap 




. 312 


Eating the bedding . 




. 312 


Resting one hind foot upon the othe 




. 313 


Sleeping standing 




. 313 


Trotting in stable 




. 314 


Weaving 




. 314 


Switching tail in stable 




. 314 


Gorging grain .... 




. 315 


Difficult to drench 




. 315 



CHAPTER IX 

Harnessing the Colt 317-348 

The Bit and the Bridle 318 

The bit 318 

Head-stall "325 

Bhnds 325 



Contents 



XV 



Centerpieces, earbobs, tassels and brass fixtures 

The check-rein . 
The Lines .... 

Multiple hitch . 
The Collar and Sweat-pads 

Sweat-pads . 

Breast harness . 

The hame-tug . 
The Crupper and Back-straps 
The Saddle and Back-bands 
The Breeching and Hold-backs 
Choosing Harness 
Caring for Harness . 
Fly-nets and Fly-blankets 

CHAPTER X 
Care of Colt in Training 
Exercise and Development 
Feeding and Development 
Grooming and Development 

Clipping and blanketing . 

Care of the colt's feet 

Care of the colt's teeth 
Accidents Likely to occur in Train 

Bruised knee 

Broken knee 

Bruised fetlock . 

Calking .... 

Puncture of the foot and frog 

Wounds and stabs 

Sprains .... 

Wind-galls, wind-puffs, blood-spavin, bog 
and thorough-pin . 

Capped hocks 

Harness galls 

Chafed legs 



326 
327 
329 
330 
331 
335 
335 
336 
336 
337 
338 
343 
3M 
347 



349-375 
350 
352 
357 
361 
363 
365 
366 
367 
367 
368 
369 
369 
370 
372 

373 
373 
373 
375 



LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS 



Hackney-colt, showing high knee and hock action ... 5 

Catching foal the first time ....... 29 

The loin-hitch used in teaching foal to lead .... 37 

Teaching the foal to back ....... 39 

Teaching the foal to drive with lines ..... 41 

The tail-hitch, used in teaching the young horse to lead . 53 
The quarters-hitch, used in teaching the young horse to 

lead 54 

The bitting-haruess for teaching the uses of the bit . . 61 

Running side reins, useful in bitting the horse ... 63 

Teaching the horse to drive with lines 64 

Poling the head and nose 70 

Poling the body and legs ........ 71 

The young horse becoming familiar with the harness . . 73 

Driving in harness previous to hitching to a vehicle . . 75 

Acquainting the horse with the training cart ... 75 

Acquainting him with the top buggy 77 

Hitched for the first time, kicking straps attached . . 78 

Teaching to back with the lines 81 

Teaching the horse to back a vehicle ..... 82 

Young horses hitched double for the first time ... 85 

Familiarizing the young horse with strange objects . . 88 

First position in picking up a front foot .... 101 

Second position in picking up a front foot .... 102 

First position in picking up a rear foot ..... 103 

Second position in picking up a rear foot .... 104 

Third position in picking up a rear foot ..... 105 

xvii 



XVUl 



List of Illustrations 



Boots for protecting the feet and legs 

One type of toe weight .... 

Haclvney coach team of proper conformation 

Coach horse properly bitted to favor action 

Improving action with curb-bit 

Types of saddles 

Types of saddle-stirrups 

Types of spurs 

The walk . 

The trot . 

The canter 

The rack . 

The running walk . 

The fox trot . 

The jump . . . 

Rope halter 

Yankee bridle . 

Yankee bridle modified 

War bridle 

War bridle modified 

Excelsior bridle 

Pulley bridle . 

Pulley bridle with three rings 

Pulley bridle modified 

Hackamore bridle . 

Noose-twitch . 

Halter-twitch . 

Headstall-twitch 

Guy rope . 

Combination bridle . 

Self-punishing harness 

Hobbles . 

Rarey's single safety 

Rarey's double safety with guy rope 

Rarey's single safety restraining one forelei 



List of Illustrations 



XIX 



Rarey's double safety restraining the forelegs 
Rarey's double safety, horse on knees 
Rarey's throwing harness 
Rarey's throwing harness, first position . 
Rarey's throwing harness, second position 
Rarey's throwing harness, third position 
Rope throwing harness .... 
Rope and ring throwing harness 
Method of securing rope to tail 
The Galvayne appliance in use 
The straight-jacket ..... 
Snaring a loose horse .... 
Gentling a loose horse ..... 
Haltering a loose horse, first position 
Haltering a loose horse, second position . 
Arrangement of double safety when hitched 
Familiarizing wild horse with objects 
Crupper anti-switching appliance . 
Hip-strap anti-switching appliance . 
Loin-hitch to overcome halter pulling 
Tail-hitch to ovei'come halter pulling 
Galvayne tail-rope on horse difficult to mount 
Noose-twitch on horse difficult to groom 
Appliances to prevent cribbing 
Gentling front foot with rope . 
Gentling front foot with leg-strap . 
First position in gentling hind foot 
Second position in gentling hind foot 
Third position in gentling hind foot 
Neck-cradle .... 
Muzzle to prevent tearing blanket 
Appliances to prevent pawing . 

Bits c 

Beery bit 

Patent collars .... 



XX 



List of Illustrations 



Leather collars ...... 

An inexpensive but neat driving harness 
Light yvork. harness ..... 

Heavy work harness .... 

Tools for groominc: ..... 



PAGE 

333 
340 
341 
342 
359 



THE TRAINING AND BREAKING 
OF HORSES 



THE TRAINING AND BREAKING 
OF HORSES 

CHAPTER I 
THE HORSE AND HIS MASTER 

In common usage, the term 'draining a horse" 
imphes educating him for some special work, while 
the expression ''breaking a horse" signifies preparing 
him for common everyday work and overcoming 
whims, faults and vices. This usage of the word 
''breaking" is very unfortunate. Only too often 
the average horse is simply broken in spirit and obeys 
or more accurately does not resist his master because 
he is worked down and worn out and does not have 
the energy to refuse. This is the kind of horse that 
frequently surprises his master by rearing, kicking, 
running away and the like when permitted to regain 
his former condition. A horse well educated to 
perform the more common work of his life requires 
careful training. This is particularly true at the 
present time when there are so many self-driven 
vehicles on the highways. 

In this book, therefore, the term " training " is em- 
ployed to signify the educating of the horse both for 
common everyday work and for special work, as it 
P 1 



2 The Horse and his Master 

conveys the proper meaning, the object being to train 
the horse so as to increase his efficiency, and not to 
break the high and superb spirit that makes him the 
most desirable of all animals. 

The usefulness and value of a horse depend on 
his training and on his being readily subservient to 
his master's will. With few exceptions, such as in 
high-acting coach work, fast work on the race-track, 
saddle work and the like, training the horse for his 
life-work is not difficult. Yet much of the mean- 
ness and viciousness existing among horses is due to 
improper training, poor management and injudicious 
care. The trainer and the driver, though innocent 
of the fact, are at fault more often perhaps than the 
horse. To avoid this deplorable state of affairs, a 
careful study of the horse and his surroundings should 
be made in order that the animal may be trained, 
managed and cared for in a way to enable him to 
develop his greatest usefulness. 

THE HOESE AND HIS INTELLIGENCE 

In horse training, the two most important factors 
to be considered are the horse and his master. Of 
these, the master — his nervous disposition, temper, 
and personal habits — is of vital importance. While 
knowledge of the methods employed in training is 
not difficult to obtain, the successful application calls 
for certain qualities in the master. The lack of such 



The Intelligence of the Horse 3 

qualities accounts for many of the bad habits exist- 
ing among horses. With a httle patience, however, 
most horse owners can acquire both the knowledge 
and qualities of temper necessary to train a horse 
to do his work very satisfactorily. 

In order to be efficient in horse training we must 
know something of the mental capabilities of the 
horse. We should make therefore a careful study of 
the animal in order to determine what he can under- 
stand. It must be apparent if the horse does not 
understand what is wanted of him, if he does not 
comprehend the meaning of the commands and sig- 
nals, he cannot be taught to obey, but will be much 
confused, and hence all attempts to train him will 
fail. First, then, make a careful study of the horse's 
intelligence. 

Horse's intelligence often overestimated. — The horse 
is often accorded man's most faithful servant, and 
because of this, no doubt, his intelligence is often 
greatly overestimated. The horse cannot reason. 
He lacks the ability of acquiring knowledge by draw- 
ing conclusions. This being true, he can be taught 
only by the association of ideas. As, for example, a 
touch of the whip on the hindquarter will imply, at 
first, to go forward, but by giving the command 
''get up" just before the horse is struck with the 
whip he soon learns to go at the command. This 
should be repeated until the habit becomes fixed, 
when the whip may be discarded. As the horse 



4 The Horse and his Master 

forms habits without difficulty, much care should 
be exercised in estabhshing only desirable ones. If 
a desirable act is repeated, a good habit is formed, 
whereas if the act is undesirable, the habit is bad. 
To the horse, however, the habit is neither good nor 
bad, but only his method of responding to treatment 
or suggestion. 

When a habit is induced generation after genera- 
tion, it has a tendency to be transmitted from parent 
to offspring. There are many examples of this among 
horses, such as the saddle gaits among saddle-bred 
horses and high action among Hackney coach horses. 
It is a comparatively easy matter to teach a saddle- 
bred horse the various saddle gaits, whereas it would 
be practically impossible to teach such gaits to a 
trotting-bred horse. Hackney coach horses, having 
been bred for action for many generations, often 
possess much high knee and hock action from colt- 
hood (Fig. 1). 

The horse has a good memory. — A habit when fully 
established implies the use of the memory ; that is, 
the horse must remember that certain commands or 
signals call for certain acts. The horse has such a 
good memory that what he fully understands he sel- 
dom forgets. The vividness with which events are 
retained depends on the intensity of the impression 
and on repetition, or both. Intensity of impression 
is more serviceable than repetition in fixing ideas in 
the horse's mind. Painful lessons are long remem- 



The Intelligence of the Horse 



5 



bered. It is this principle that is involved in the 
short, rather severe methods of training. Repetition, 
however, is extremely useful in all horse training and 
is absolutely essential when training for special work, 
as racers, coachers, saddlers and the like. 




Fig. 1. — Hackney colt, showing high knee and hock action. 

In training the horse there are three factors in- 
fluencing the rapidity with which events may be 
memorized and thus with which habits are formed. 
First, with mature horses the power of memorizing 
or making new associations decreases with increasing 
age. Therefore we should begin with young ani- 



6 The Horse and his Master 

mals. Second, fatigue, either mental or physical, 
impairs the memory ; hence we should not continue 
the work so long as to tire out the animal in mind 
or muscle. Third, the greater the number of ideas 
associated with the same event the weaker each be- 
comes. Thus, each response should be developed by 
a different event. That is, to teach a horse to stop, 
have him do so at the command ''whoa" ; in teach- 
ing him to back, have him do so at the command 
''back" ; and never give the command "whoa-back" 
when we wish him to stop, or when we wish him to 
back, as this confuses the animal. 

In training the horse's memory, there are two other 
factors that must be kept constantly in mind. 
First, there seems to be but slight connection be- 
tween the two sides of the horse's brain. A horse 
may be very familiar with an object from one side 
but when such object is viewed from the other side 
he may become frightened and much confused. To 
avoid this confusion, train him to objects first from 
the "near" or left side, and when thoroughly familiar 
with them on this side repeat the process on the 
"off" or right side. Second, the horse, in his nat- 
ural state, lives in droves or herds and is never found 
alone. Because of this tendency to flock together 
it is easier to drive a number of wild horses than a 
single wild animal. The domestic horse has not 
lost this characteristic habit. In view of this, the 
horse's memory can be more efficiently trained when 



Memory, The Special Senses 7 

worked alone. If worked with another horse, the 
colt has a natural tendency to imitate rather than to 
learn, and thus relies on the other horse and not on 
his own memory. Further, it is not possible to 
train a horse while angry, sick or otherwise out of 
condition, as he does not memorize under such cir- 
cumstances. 

It is interesting to note that the mule possesses 
greater intelHgence, in some things at least, than the 
horse. A very good example of this is the case of 
kicking animals. If a kicking horse, when in har- 
ness, gets his leg over the trace, he continues to kick 
until free, even though the legs are injured in the 
process. On the other hand, if the mule becomes 
thus entangled, he will remain perfectly quiet and 
allow himself to be released. The mule seems to be 
sufficiently intelligent to recognize the folly of need- 
lessly hurting himself, which is not true of the horse 
when he becomes confused or excited. 

TRAINING BY MEANS OF THE SPECIAL SENSES 

Like man, the horse receives his training and edu- 
cation through the special organs of feeling, seeing, 
hearing, smelling and tasting. It is by these special 
senses that the horse acquires a knowledge of what 
is expected of him, and no system of training can be 
successful that fails to take into account the impres- 
sions that the animal receives by these means. 



8 The Horse and his Master 

The sense of feeling requires patient training. — 
In the beginning the horse must be accustomed to 
handhng by his master. The horse should permit 
every part of the body to be rubbed, but care should 
be exercised in touching the back of the front legs, 
the belly and the front of the hind legs, as these parts 
are very sensitive. Early in life he learns that pres- 
sure applied at the halter indicates that he should 
move forward, and later he learns that a backward 
pressure on the bit indicates to move backward. 
The horse familiarizes himself with external objects 
by the touch, particularly with the nose. 

Often horses show much alarm at strange objects 
in famihar places, such as an empty bag lying in the 
paddock or a hat by the roadside. The horse will 
usually walk a few steps toward the object and then 
circle round and round it, gradually reducing the 
circle, getting nearer and nearer, until finally he puts 
his nose on the object. He does this to touch the 
object, and not primarily to smell it. After thus 
touching the object the horse's alarm disappears. 
This is simply the animal's method of getting ac- 
quainted with the strange object. Because of this 
the horse should be permitted to feel strange objects, 
such as the harness, the shafts and the like, in order 
that he may become familiar with them. If this 
precaution is taken before the harness is placed on 
the horse's back or before being hitched into the 
shafts, much needless confusion may be avoided. 



Training hy Means of the Special Senses 9 

Train the sight to objects of fear. — - While the sense 
of sight is of great importance in training horses, it 
is second to that of feehng. The horse must be 
taught to recognize his master and to allow him to 
approach from either side without resentment. 
With respect to sight, there are two factors that must 
be kept in mind. First, train the horse to watch 
where he is going so that he will not stumble over 
objects in his path. Second, train the sight so that he 
will not fear objects likely to,- make him start with 
terror, such as robes, umbrellas, cars and the like. 
The horse has a great aversion to robes and it is of 
importance that he be taught, very early in his life, 
that such objects are harmless, and thus avoid much 
confusion later. The horse's range of vision is much 
more limited than that of man. While there is 
much discussion as to the advisability of using blinds 
in training, yet it seems very unwise still further to 
restrict the sight of the animal. This is especially 
true while he is being trained, as it is the business of 
the master to familiarize the animal with all objects 
he is likely to see later in life. Because of the great 
importance of having the horse view objects from 
either side and at all angles, the training should be 
accomplished with an open bridle. 

Do not confuse the horse through the hearing. — 
The sense of hearing is often called into use in train- 
ing horses. While the horse hears readily, it must 
be borne in mind that too many commands only serve 



10 The Horse and his Master 

to confuse him. Further, one command should never 
be given for two acts. It is a very common thing to 
hear a driver use the term ''back" when he wishes 
the animal to stop and to give the same command 
when he wishes the horse to move backward. Give 
few commands and have each stand for a certain act. 
Do not shout at the horse, as this only serves to con- 
fuse him. Speak gently but firmly, and if properly 
trained, he will obey. 

Sense of smell also used in training. — Because the 
sense of smell is not used in the same manner as 
feeling, seeing and hearing it is often neglected al- 
together. In horse training, the sense of smell can 
be made useful, as is suggested by the readiness with 
which the young horse will take a bit and permit him- 
self to be bridled with a bit and bridle formerly worn 
by an animal with which the young horse is famihar. 
In view of this it is well, when convenient, to use har- 
ness previously worn by an aninial of the horse's 
acquaintance. (See Fig. 13.) 

Sense of taste indirectly used in training. — In re- 
warding the young horse for obeying our commands, 
the sense of taste is useful. Thus, if convenient, 
when the horse obeys he should be rewarded by a 
bite of grass, a carrot or a lump of sugar. It is a 
rather common practice to use a measure of grain 
or an ear of corn to catch a horse out at pasture. 
While this is a reward only for an act completed, it 
often serves to fix the idea in the horse's mind. 



Objects and Methods of Training 11 

THE OBJECTS OF HORSE TRAINING 

There are four principal objects sought in training 
a horse: First, to render him quiet both in and out 
of the stable ; second, to teach him to obey the sig- 
nals and orders of his master with promptness and 
precision ; third, to create and establish in the 
animal the habit of applying his powers to the best 
advantage; and fourth, to correct any fault, whim or 
vice that detracts from his usefulness. 

It is the business of the trainer to guide the horse 
in such a way as to make it difficult for hihi to do 
wrong and exceedingly easy to do right. Since the 
horse cannot reason, he naturally does those things 
that are easiest to accomplish. If these acts are 
bad, we say the horse has bad habits, and if good, 
we say he has good habits; whereas, with the horse, 
such acts are simply his way of responding to certain 
events. Hence we should be ever on the alert to 
prevent the bad acts by making them very difficult 
for the horse to accomplish. 

METHODS OF HORSE TRAINING 

As horses are exceedingly variable in temper and 
intelhgence, to be successful we must take account 
of this fact. We should be in possession of va- 
rious methods for enforcing our commands. This 
is particularly true of semi-wild horses, or of horses 
with a tendency to develop certain whims, faults or 



12 The Horse and his Master 

vice, since the removal of the cause of such ailments 
is the best treatment. The more resourceful the 
trainer and the greater the number of methods he 
has at his command, the more successful will be his 
work. 

Selecting a method. — The method to select in 
training a horse is the one that will give the desired 
results and establish the proper habits. To deter- 
mine this we must make a careful study of the ani- 
mal. Note the temper, the disposition, the general 
action ; in fact, nothing is too insignificant to be con- 
sidered in this preliminary study of the animal whose 
habits, either for good or bad, are soon to be estab- 
lished. In the process of developing a horse it may 
be necessary to employ many methods. This is 
particularly true in training for the more exacting 
work, as fast trotting or pacing, high acting coach 
work, saddle work, and the like. 

Rapid methods vs. slow methods. — The methods 
of training may be divided, in a general way, into 
two classes : the rapid method and the slow method. 
In America, the rapid method is usually employed, 
whereas in the Old World the slow method predomi- 
nates. A study of these methods reveals the fact 
that the rapid mode relies on intensity of impres- 
sion in fixing ideas in the horse's mind, while the slow 
method depends on repetition to fix the ideas. 

The most common rapid methods are the ''Rarey 
method" (p.208)and the"Galvaynemethod"(p.219), 



Methods of Horse Training 13 

taking their names from the men who first introduced 
them into practice. In either method the object 
is to impress the horse that we are superior and that 
he must do as commanded. Both methods are very 
simple. Rarey used harness for laying the horse 
down (Fig. 66), while Galvayne tied the animal's head 
to his tail in such a way that he was compelled to 
go round and round until stupefied (Fig, 71). Both 
methods have been extensively used, particularly 
on semi-wild horses and on animals that have been 
spoiled or have contracted some whim, fault or vice. 
While either method is fairly efficient, one must not 
make the mistake of thinking it to be infallible. 
This is an error frequently made by the professional 
''horse trainer." At best bad habits are often diffi- 
cult to overcome, and when the horse gets back into 
his former condition the old tricks also are likely to 
return. This is especially true of horses that have 
been spoiled by bad tempered and irritable men who 
have not the patience to handle a horse. Horses 
thus spoiled may be cured by changing drivers. 

Rapid methods permanently effective. ■> — Some per- 
sons have objected to the rapid method of training on 
the ground that because it takes only one tenth of 
the time of the slow method, it is not so permanent 
in its effect. Such is not the case. As has been 
pointed out, there are two ways of fixing events in 
the horse's mind ; one is by intensity of impression, 
the other by repetition, of which the former is the more 



14 The Horse and his Master 

effective. In fact, without intensity, repetition has 
but httle effect in fixing an impression on the mind. 

In order to insure permanency of effect in training 
a horse, one must first estabhsh the habit of obedi- 
ence. Many fail because they do not understand 
how to enforce obedience, while many others fail 
because they do not repeat the act until it becomes 
fixed in the horse's mind. First make the horse 
obey, then repeat the process as may be needed. 
Do not rely upon fixing an event in the horse's mind 
by having him do the act but once or twice. No 
matter how strong the act was impressed, in the ma- 
jority of cases it will soon wear off unless repeated. 
Therefore continue the act until the habit is formed ; 
then it is likely to remain permanently. 

It is important to note that no matter how well 
a horse may have been cured of a bad habit, he is 
likely to acquire it again if subjected to the same 
treatment or management that caused it in the first 
place. The owner of such a horse, therefore, will 
do well to change him about after training to over- 
come the bad habit, which in connection with judi- 
cious management is very likely to prove permanent 
in its effect. 



SAFETY IN HORSE TRAINING 

In training horses, the methods adopted should be 
free from physical danger to the horse as well as 



Safety in Horse Training 15 

the man. The habihty of injuring the animal is 
one objection to some of the rapid methods. Among 
horses that are very headstrong and unmindful of the 
signals, it is safer to risk the horse than ourselves. 
Thus in the case of horses that are very self-asserting 
it is best to use methods that afford ample protec- 
tion, even though they are rather severe on the 
animal. 

The slow, Old World methods are, as a rule, much 
more likely to result in injury to the trainei* than 
some of the rapid American methods. Thus in 
some of the slow methods the trainer goes boldly up 
to the horse, to impress upon him that he is not 
afraid. Such methods are never to be advised, as 
the risk is too great. We should never give the ani- 
mal a chance to do that which is likely to result in 
injury to ourselves or to any one else. If the trainer 
is exceedingly careful and painstaking, and, as pre- 
viously suggested, makes it difficult for the horse 
to do that which he should not and easy to do that 
which he should, there is very little risk in horse 
training. 

MAKE THE HORSE UNDERSTAND AND RESPOND TO 
ORDERS AND SIGNALS 

Since the horse cannot understand our spoken 
language, we must establish certain signals and com- 
mands that will render him capable of knowing our 



16 The Horse and his Master 

wishes. These should be very simple, and of such 
a nature as to be understood easily by the horse. 
From this it follows that in training horses one 
should not talk to the animals ; this only confuses 
them. Give few signals and give them as clearly 
and uniformly as possible. Do not complicate them 
with other influences, such as the presence of other 
horses, or undue excitement and the like. Fear and 
anger also detract from the horse's understanding, and 
he should not be handled roughly when thus excited. 

Even with the simplest of signals, much patience is 
often required to get the horse to comprehend what 
is wanted. The moment he understands and com- 
pletes the act desired, quiet him and repeat until 
the idea becomes fixed. If the horse does not un- 
derstand and we continue to force signals upon him, 
as a rule he will become stubborn, impatient and 
perhaps violent. The thing to do, therefore, is to 
make the signals very simple, so simple that he can- 
not do other than as commanded, and when he does 
understand and completes the act, to repeat until 
the habit is formed. 

Exact implicit obedience from the horse. — From 
the beginning the horse must be taught that he can- 
not resist us. This is very important in the training 
of a horse, as he takes no interest in obeying. The 
safety of the trainer as well as the usefulness of the 
horse requires that he yield himself completel}" to 
the guidance of his master. This implicit obedience 



Necessity of Obedience 17 

must be exacted even though it is not in keeping 
with the horse's natural instincts. The method of 
trying to induce obedience by petting and humoring 
is not often practical. Such methods often result in 
the establishment of undesirable whims. 

Until he does his work well, the less petting he 
gets the better animal he will make. This does not 
mean to punish resisting animals with a whip, — far 
from it, as such punishment will only make matters 
worse and is certain to result in the establishment of 
vicious habits. It does mean, however, to be firm 
with the horse. Do not attempt too much at one 
time, but go through with whatever is begun. Give 
him to understand that you are his master and your 
will must be done. There are many ways of ac- 
complishing this, as stated later in the text. 

REWARD AND PUNISHMENT IN TRAINING HORSES 

Since the horse can acquire knowledge only by 
the association of ideas, it is necessary to establish 
methods whereby he may know when he has done 
as he should ; also that he may know when he has 
not acted in accordance with our wishes. Thus when 
the animal obeys, he should be rewarded, and when 
he refuses to obey, he should be punished. 

Reward for obedience may be administered in 
many ways, such as by the voice, by patting, by giv- 
ing dainty food, by resting, and the like. The use of 



18 The Horse and his Master 

the voice as a means of rewarding animals for obedi- 
ence is very efficient. The horse readily under- 
stands the meaning of a soft tone, and is likely to 
take a harsh tone for a rebuke. Patting and strok- 
ing the horse with the hand, particularly in the re- 
gion of the mane and along the neck and shoulders, 
affords a very expressive means of rewarding him 
for obedience. Giving a handful of hay, or better 
still of green grass, a carrot or a lump of sugar, often 
has the desired effect of associating the command or 
given signal with the event desired. Resting or 
ceasing the discipline is also a very efficient means of 
gaining the good will of the horse, and may be used 
to advantage in the management of the reins. 

Punishing the horse for disobedience is much 
more difficult than rewarding the animal for obedi- 
ence. There are many ways of rebuking a diso- 
bedient animal, the most common being the voice 
and the whip. The horse will take a harsh tone for 
a rebuke in much the same manner that he takes a 
soft tone for a caress. The words used, however, 
should be few, distinct and significant. No matter 
what form of punishment is used, we must remember 
that the benefit to be derived is to induce the horse 
mentally to associate with it the particular event 
that we wish to convey. From this it follows that 
we are justified in inflicting pain only as a means of 
educating the animal, and never as a penalty for 
doing wrong. 



Reward and Punishment in Training Horses 19 

The use of the whip. — While the whip is very use- 
ful in training and in the subsequent management 
of the horse, there is perhaps no one thing in con- 
nection with horse training so often misapplied as 
the whip. This is due, in part at least, to the ease 
with which it can be applied and to the fact that it 
is used for two very different purposes : First to in- 
duce the animal to go forward, and second as a warn- 
ing that he should not behave in an undesirable 
manner. This is oftentimes confusing, and the mat- 
ter is still further complicated when the horse is pun- 
ished as a penalty for wrong-doing. To avoid this 
confusion we should give the uses of the whip much 
consideration. 

The whip should always be applied at the rear 
end of the horse when used to encourage him to go 
forward. The use of the whip should always be 
preceded by a command, as ''get up." Never strike 
the horse before giving the command. To be most 
efficient the lick should succeed the word so close 
that the horse cannot help feeling that when the 
command is given the whip is to follow at once. To 
avoid the pain of the whip the horse soon learns to 
start forward at the command alone, when the whip 
should be put aside. 

The whip should always be applied along the side 
of the horse, when used as a warning. One rather 
sharp cut, depending on the individual, is usually 
sufficient to bring a horse to his senses. Never whip 



20 The Horse and his Master 

a horse past an object that is causing him fright. 
Since he can think of but one thing at a time and 
since he learns by association of ideas, he may as- 
sociate the pain with the object or he thinks the 
object is causing the pain. In horse training, a 
free use of the whip will break the spirit of high- 
couraged animals and increase the sulkiness of 
stubborn ones. . One sharp cut, or at most a few, 
immediately following the command "take care," 
is sufficient punishment to warn him against wrong- 
doing. 

The horse should never be punished by striking 
with the whip and jerking on the lines at the same 
time. This punishing the animal at both ends serves 
to confuse him, and if he possesses a high spirit some 
desperate act is likely to follow. To avoid such con- 
fusion, administer punishment at but one end at a 
time. 

REQUIREMENTS IN THE TRAINER 

The most important essential in the trainer is 
that he either possess or acquire complete control 
over himself and his temper. Without complete 
control over himself it is not possible for him to at- 
tain the ability to control a horse. Horse training 
is partly an art and partly a science. To execute 
the work efficiently requires much patience. Horses 
vary widely both mentally and phj'-sically. Some 
are quick and docile, while others are stupid and 



Personal Requirements in the Trainer 21 

stubborn. If their lack of understanding or willful 
disobedience causes their trainer to lose his temper, 
he will frighten the timid ones out of their senses and 
provoke the stubborn ones to resistance and perhaps 
to retaUation. Thus a quick-tempered or irritable 
trainer is quite likely to develop a bad-tempered 
horse, while the trainer with an uncontrollable tem- 
per is equally as Hkely to develop a really vicious 
and dangerous horse. To be most successful in 
training horses, one should possess an even temper, 
much patience, readiness of resources, sympathy, 
skill and pluck, all of which can be attained and de- 
veloped, in part at least, by thoughtful study and 
much practice. 

Personal influence of the trainer. — In practical 
horse training the influence of the trainer is often 
significant. It often happens that the animal is 
completely taken up by the one in charge. ^^Tien 
the trainer is the only one to work the horse sub- 
sequently, the possession of such personal influence 
over the animal is often of much advantage. On 
the other hand, if the trainer is only to educate the 
animal, then such influence may be a positive hin- 
drance. The horse may be perfectly safe while 
under the influence of the trainer^ but become re- 
fractory or even resent interference from any one 
else. It is the work of the trainer to render the 
horse perfectly obedient to the commands of his 
master. No horse can be said to be thoroughly 



22 The Horse and his Master 

trained until he can be managed under all circum- 
stances by any one familiar with horses. 

GENERAL CONSIDERATIONS IN HORSE TRAINING 

Having considered the horse's low degree of in- 
telligence and the fact that he can neither reason nor 
draw conclusions and must learn therefore by as- 
sociation of ideas; that he possesses an excellent 
memory which can be easily trained ; that the only 
means of communicating information to him is by 
the special senses, particularly those of feehng, see- 
ing and hearing ; and having considered the objects 
of training, as well as the more important methods, 
we may now note some of the more important under- 
lying principles in the practice of horse training. 

The earlier in life the training begins the more 
useful animal he will make. The young horse has 
fewer ideas of his own and is more willing to accept 
the direction of a superior intelligence than the older 
animal. It is therefore of advantage to begin the 
training in early colthood when at all convenient. 

In training, we endeavor to increase the horse's 
serviceabiUty by rendering him readily subservient 
to our will. In doing this we exaggerate the horse's 
idea of those of his powers which are useful and at 
the same time deceive him as to those attributes 
which if realized might impair his usefulness. Thus 
the first time a draft horse is hitched to a load much 



General Statements about Training 23 

care should be exercised not to overload him, with a 
view of developing in him the idea that he can pull 
anything that has both ends loose. On the other 
hand, the first time he is tied up by the head, equally 
as much care should be taken to see that the halter 
is strong enough to hold him in case he pulls. If 
the horse pulls and fails to free himself at the first few 
attempts, he is not likely to try it again, and a string 
would probably serve as well as a chain to keep him 
in place thereafter. If, however, he succeeds in free- 
ing himself at the first attempt, he will never cease 
trying to repeat it until put through a system of 
training to cure the habit of pulling back. 

In developing the spirit of obedience, we should 
not work the horse too long at a time. If the ani- 
mal is fatigued, his powers of learning are decreased, 
and if the training is continued, he becomes con- 
fused. Fifteen minutes to one half hour is sufficient 
for a young horse. Five to ten half-hour lessons 
given in systematic order will accomplish more in 
preparing the horse to stand severe tests than two 
years of haphazard training. 

Since horses differ in temper and disposition, we 
are obliged to use various methods in rendering 
them obedient. No set of rules can be laid down 
that will apply in all cases. While such methods 
as were employed by Galvayne and Rarey are very 
effective in subduing semi- wild horses, neither of 
them will cure many whims, faults or vices to which 



24 The Horse and his Master 

horses are subject. We should make a careful study 
of the horse and adopt that method which will prove 
most efficient with the animal in hand. 

Whatever system of training is employed, to be 
successful we must exact implicit obedience from 
the horse at all times. Be gentle yet firm, and go 
through with whatever is attempted. If at any time, 
however, the horse cannot be induced to do exactly 
what is required, make him do something else. Enforce 
obedience of some kind at the time to prevent him 
from conceiving the idea that he can dispute his 
master. If at all possible, however, do not rest until 
he does that which was asked of him. 

We should devote our entire attention to the horse 
in hand and should strive to obtain and keep his 
attention that he may get an idea of what is expected 
of him. As soon as he understands what is wanted, 
repeat in the same manner until the lesson is fixed 
in his mind. Do not hurry from one lesson to an- 
other, and do not try to teach too many things at 
one time, as such only serves to confuse the horse. 

In training the stubborn, refractory and wild 
horse, or in subduing the vicious horse, it is of the 
utmost importance that he be given to understand 
that he is to obey or suffer accordingly. From the 
beginning we must use such appliance as will give 
us the advantage. This can be accomplished in 
two ways : First by the employment of such appli- 
ance as will consume the animal's strength, and by 



General Consideration in Horse Training 25 

the use of self-punishing harness, which will inflict 
the punishment at the instant he violates our wish. 
As soon as he completes the act desired, whether of 
his own will or because forced to do so, he should be 
caressed by feeding a dainty, as this serves to fix 
the idea in his mind. 



CHAPTER II 
TRAINING THE FOAL 

The foal should be handled and] taught a few sim- 
ple lessons while young. As a r^le, the farmer or 
horse breeder is so very busy at the time the foal is 
born that the youngster is neglected. He is not given 
an opportunity to become acquainted with his master. 
Often he is treated as an outcast. Because he gets 
in the way or does that which he should not, he is 
punished. Such treatment may be continued until 
weaning time, when the youngster is turned out to 
rough it until three years of age. At this age he is 
caught up, "broken," and put to work. Soon the 
owner begins to wonder why his hprse did not attain 
the size of that of his neighbor's ; why the animal 
cannot accomplish the work he should ; whj^ he 
developed such whims as loUing his tongue, stripping 
his bridle, tearing his blanket, cribbing, wind-sucking, 
and the like ; and such vice as switching the tail, 
biting, kicking, balking, running away, and so on, 
all of which are due to lack of training, care and 
management while young. 

26 



Importance of Early Training 27 

AGE TO BEGIN TRAINING THE FOAL 

As it is much easier to train the young tree, or 
to mold the clay before it sets, so it is much easier 
to train the foal while young, as he has fewer ideas 
of his own and fewer fixed habits. If he is thrifty 
and strong, the very first day of his life is none 
too soon to begin training. The earlier in life the 
training begins the easier the task, and the longer 
it is postponed the greater are the chances of a 
. hard struggle. We can show, rather than force, 
him to do that which he does not understand. 
While it is true, no doubt, that at this early age 
the animal's power of memorizing is undeveloped, 
it must be remembered that the horse learns by 
association of ideas only and beginning at so early 
an age has many advantages aside from training the 
memory. 

Perhaps the most important advantage gained 
by early training is that the youngster becomes ac- 
quainted with his master at a time when man is the 
. animal's physical superior. This is significant. As 
has been stated, the horse obeys commands because 
he feels obliged to do so, and not because he likes to 
accomplish a task. It is, therefore, of advantage 
to fix the idea in the foal's mind that he is our mental 
and physical inferior and must obey. The earlier 
he comes into possession of this idea the better horse 
he will make. On the other hand, horses which 



28 Training the Foal 

have roughed it from birth to maturity, having come 
to know their strength and having their instinct of 
independence strongly developed, are proportion- 
ately more difficult to teach to obey. 



CATCHING AND HANDLING THE FOAL 

It is of much importance the first time the foal is 
caught that he be held in such a manner as not to 
cause him fright. The common practice is to catch 
the youngster around the neck, which usually 
frightens him, and as he has never been fast before 
he runs backward and either frees himself or falls, 
with the result that he is more difficult to approach 
the next time. To avoid this, the trainer should 
make a careful study of the factors governing the 
movements of the animal. For example, if we touch 
his hindquarters, he moves forward, and as we have 
just seen, if we touch his forequarters, he moves 
backward. If a horse gets his front foot over an 
obstruction of any kind and feels the pressure on the 
foot or leg, he goes backward until he frees himself, 
even though he seriously injures himself in doing so, 
whereas he could very easily step over the obstruc- 
tion by a forward movement. If the hind foot is 
fast, he goes forward in much the same way. Thus 
we see that pressure in front stimulates a backward 
movement, while pressure behind stimulates a for- 
ward movement. This is a very important obser- 



How to Catch the Foal 



29 



vation and should always be kept in mind when 
training a horse. 

Catch a foal around both ends. — In catching the 
foal for the first time, gently place one arm under the 




Fig. 2. — Catching foal the first time. 

neck and the other under the hams (Fig. 2). If he 
attempts to go forward, apply pressure at the neck, 
or if he attempts to go backward, apply the pressure 
at the hams. If it is desired to have him step for- 
ward, relieve the pressure at the neck and apply it at 



30 Training the Foal 

the hams, or if it is desired to have him step back- 
ward, reheve the pressure at the hams and apply it 
at the neck. If caught in this manner, he will soon 
become quiet, then he should be handled all over the 
body and legs. Extra care should be taken when 
handling the ears, the back of the forelegs, the flanks, 
and the front of the hind legs, as these parts are 
extremely sensitive to the touch. This requires 
only a few minutes and the foal, in all probability, 
will come to meet you the next time you enter the 
stall instead of fleeing from you, as he will if you at- 
tempt to catch him by the neck or even if you pay 
no attention to him the first time you enter the stall. 

Foals are naturally very timid. — Perhaps the treat- 
ment horses have received since their domestica- 
tion, as well as the brutal treatment their ancestors 
suffered before domestication, has had much to do 
with rendering the young naturally timid. Foals of 
the lighter breeds are more nervous and timid than 
those of the draft breeds, and require more effort to 
gain their confidence. If the animals are to reach 
their greatest usefulness, this natural timidity must 
be overcome and confidence in man established. 
This can be accomplished by kind, firm treatment. 
The occasional use of some relished morsel, such as 
a lump of sugar, will be of material benefit in over- 
coming timidity and in establishing confidence. 

No sudden movements should be made in ap- 
proaching the foal, as these will make him start and 



Method of Catching the Foal 31 

jump away. In this way, he will soon learn that he 
can escape being caught. To avoid this we should 
always go about the young animal in a very quiet 
manner. Never make a quick movement in catch- 
ing him, as this will serve to frighten him and make 
him more difficult to catch the next time. Never 
attempt to catch him unless sure of success, for if he 
succeeds in getting away, it is not at all likely that he 
will forget it soon. 

Children and thoughtless persons often try to 
make the youngster show off by doing something to 
frighten him, as throwing sticks, "shooing," running 
at him and the like. This should never be done. 
Such actions serve to make the animal more difficult 
to catch and handle, and in fact may so frighten a 
highly nervous one as to cause him to injure himself 
in an attempt to get away. If it is desired to see the 
foal in action, lead the mare away and the youngster 
will follow, when his action may be noted. 

Secure the foaVs confidence while young. — After 
catching the foal and handling him as suggested, it 
is important that we secure his complete confidence 
before he is set free. If for some reason the young- 
ster should make his escape after being caught and 
held fast, but before his confidence is secured, he 
will be very difficult to catch the next time. In view 
of this fact much care must be taken to dispell all 
fear. Loving kindness is an important factor in 
securing this confidence. Feeding sweets from the 



32 Training the Foal 

palm of the hand, such as a little granulated sugar 
pressed between the lips, will aid materially in se- 
curing the youngster's confidence. Sugar, being 
sweeter than the dam's milk, seems to give him the 
idea that we are his friend, and instead of fleeing as 
we enter the stall he will come to meet us, placing as 
much confidence in us as in his mother. The im- 
portance of securing the colt's confidence at this 
early age is very significant, as he is likely to retain 
the pleasant recollection throughout life. 

Avoid confusing the foal. — In handling the foal, 
we should go about the work coolly and with con- 
fidence. We should be careful to avoid confusing or 
exciting him. It must be remembered that there is 
little connection between the two sides of the ani- 
mal's brain, and he may be perfectly famihar with 
us from one side and yet become greatly excited if 
caught from the other side. To avoid this confusion, 
handle the foal from both sides. He should become 
familiar with strange objects from every quarter. 

In training the youngster, it is important that the 
first lessons be of such a nature that they can be un- 
derstood very easily and even more easily accom- 
plished. The foal of course must understand what 
is wanted before he can be expected to accomplish 
the task. When he fully understands what is ex- 
pected of him, he will do it with surprising rapidity. 
Confusion resulting from not understanding what 
is wanted often so excites or frightens the animal 



Care in Handling the Foal 33 

that he is Hkely to do anything, even to fatally in- 
juring himself by running into telephone poles, 
gate posts, buildings and the like. Since it is not 
possible to teach an excited or frightened animal, we 
must first of all make it clear to him what he is ex- 
pected to do. 

Make first lessons short and simple. — In handling 
the foal, the first few lessons should not exceed fifteen 
minutes in length, as this is sufficient time to impress 
an idea on his mind. These early lessons should be 
exceedingly simple, so as to avoid confusion. Take 
up one thing at a time, and be sure the colt fully un- 
derstands what is wanted and how to do it before 
passing to another. As advancement is made, teach 
the lessons in the most useful order and always re- 
peat each in the order taught. Soon the foal can 
be relied upon to go through the list in order given 
without a break. On the other hand, if the work is 
given in a haphazard manner, then all is uncertain as 
to just what the animal can be depended upon to ac- 
complish. If the work is continued too long and 
the colt fatigued either mentally or physically, his 
power of memorizing is weakened, and if the work is 
complicated, he may become confused. To avoid 
this make the work short and simple, particularly 
in the beginning. 

Teach the young foal useful things only. — As a 
rule the foal is full of life, bright and easily taught, 
and for these reasons he is often taught mischievous 



34 Training the Foal 

tricks, such as rearing, kicking, biting, and the like. 
Since he is likely to remember, throughout life, the 
impressions made on his mind while young, it goes 
without saying that such should never be permitted. 
It is such things that restrict the horse's usefulness. 
Teach the young animal only such lessons as will 
be useful to him later in life. As stated, he should 
be taught to be handled from both sides and at every 
angle ; teach him the use of the halter so that hu 
will follow wherever you wish him to go ; the mean- 
ing of the term "whoa," that is, to stop and stand 
quietly; the meaning of the term '^get up," that is, 
to move forward, and teach him the meaning of the 
term "back," that is, to move backward. In addi- 
tion, familiarize the youngster with objects that are 
likely to cause him fright, show him that such objects 
will not hurt him, and that he can trust himself to 
your care with perfect assurance that he will be pro- 
tected from all harm. 

TEACHING THE FOAL TO LEAD 

The best time to teach the foal the use of the halter 
is when he is about ten days or two weeks old. This 
is a very important matter, as it is the first time the 
youngster has been in any part of the harness, and 
he should be given to understand from the very be- 
ginning that such will not hurt him and that he must 
obey the signals given by means of the halter. Many 



A Cause of Halter-pulling 35 

animals which have been very teachable up to this 
time are often spoiled by improper methods of train- 
ing to lead, and thus the first impressions they re- 
ceive as to the use of the halter are bad. In this 
way the foundation is laid for a confirmed halter- 
puller, a vice which will materially lessen the future 
usefulness of the animal (p. 269). This comes about 
because we are not mindful of the natural tendency 
of the horse to move backward when pressure is 
applied at the front and to move forward when the 
rear end is touched. Without thinking, the halter 
is placed on his head and we begin to pull on the strap. 
True to his instincts the foal goes backward. Occa- 
sionally the face and neck are deformed in this man- 
ner, as the harder we pull the harder the colt pulls 
back. It is not necessary to drag the foal by the 
halter in order to suggest to him that his business is 
to follow. To avoid all this we need but to remem- 
ber the animal's natural instinct — pressure in front 
implies a backward movement, whereas pressure be- 
hind implies a forward movement. 

Choose a strong, well fitting halter. — For the foal a 
web halter is preferable to a leather one, as it is 
much lighter and softer and not so likely to injure 
or frighten him. Never use a rope halter on the 
young foal. An old halter that has been in constant 
use is better, all things considered, than one that 
has been hanging up or even a new one that smells 
of a lot of things that are strange to the animal. 



36 Training the Foal 

It is very important to have the halter fit the head 
perfectly. Because the foal's head grows so rapidly, 
colt halters are, as a rule, made too large for the very 
young animal in order that they may fit later on. 
The head-stall, brow-band, throat-latch and nose- 
band should be taken up until they fit, otherwise 
the pressure will not be applied properly, the cheek- 
straps may be pulled around against the animal's 
eyes, the chin-band slip over the nose and the like, 
all of which must be avoided. It often happens 
that in taking up the halter, long straps are left hang- 
ing about the head to annoy the foal. These should 
be fastened up in some way. It is often rather diffi- 
cult to adjust the halter to a nervous foal's head, but 
to be successful one must have patience. Do not 
be in a hurry, but let the youngster get acquainted 
with everything as you proceed. With the halter 
properly adjusted coax the youngster along behind 
his mother or some accustomed route, as to the water 
trough and back. If one has sweets available, such 
as sugar, and permits the youngster to taste of them 
occasionally, he will soon follow promptly. If he 
resents, however, other means must be tried. Do 
not stand in front and try to pull his head off, for he 
will only roll his eyes, shake his head and move back; 
and above all do not give up. We must now take 
advantage of the animal's natural instinct and apply 
pressure at the rear end as we wish him to move 
forward. 



Teaching the Foal to Lead 



37 



The loin-hitch. — Secure a small rope or sash-cord, 
about ten feet long, tie a loop or fasten a ring in one 
end, gently place the rope over the foal's back just 
in front of the hips with the loop or ring on the under 




Fig. 3. — The loin-hitch used in teaching foal to lead. 



side of the body, so that when the free end of the rope 
is run through the loop the rope can be closely drawn 
around the loins and flanks ; pass the rope along 
under the body between the fore legs, and then up 
through the ring on the halter or under the jaw 
strap (Fig. 3). 



38 Training the Foal 

Take the halter strap in one hand, the loin-hitch 
rope in the other, and stand in front and a little to one 
side of the foal. Pull gently on the halter strap and 
as he begins to shake his head give the loin-rope a 
sharp pull and he will immediately move forward. 
In fact, he is likely to move forward so rapidly that he 
will run into you if you stand squarely in front of 
him. Do not be in a hurry, but give the animal 
time to get used to the lesson. If he is excited, give 
him sweets or caress him until he quiets before 
attempting to give the loin-rope a second pull. 
When his confidence has been restored, try again, 
using the loin-rope again if need be. Soon he will 
follow wherever you lead. All of this requires only 
five to fifteen or twenty minutes, whereas by the old 
method — pulling on the halter alone — we have 
little or no assurance when the foal will follow. 

TEACHING THE FOAL TO BACK 

As soon as the foal fully understands the use of 
the halter and will follow wherever we lead, he should 
be taught to back. Do not attempt to teach him 
to back the same day he is taught to lead, but put 
it over until the next day. Teaching the colt to 
back is a very important lesson, as it adds materially 
to his usefulness in later life. All that is required is 
pressure in front. Take the halter strap in one hand 
so as to guide the foal in a straight line or in any 



How to Make him Back 39 

desired direction, extend the fingers of the other hand 
between the points of the shoulders and press gently 
against the animal, and he will step back (Fig. 4). 




Fig. 4. — Teaching the foal to back. 

Reward him for his action and repeat until he will 
move backward by applying the pressure at the hal- 
ter alone. Never force the animal by jerking on the 
halter strap; simply apply pressure in the sensitive 
chest cavity with the ends of the fingers. In fifteen 



40 Training the Foal 

minutes' time, in addition to leading wherever de- 
sired, the foal should be willing to back any distance 
or in any direction. 



DRIVING THE FOAL WITH LINES 

By the third day after haltering, if all has gone 
well and the colt will lead and back, he should be 
driven with lines. To do this most successfully, 
a surcingle properly adjusted is required. The 
surcingle must be provided with a loop on each side, 
placed well below the center of the body, the lines 
passed through the loops and fastened to the ring 
on either side of the halter. Never use a bit in the 
mouth of a very young animal. Now the lines will 
pass the hind quarters low and thus prevent the foal 
from turning with his head toward us, which he will 
do occasionally if the surcingle is not used. It is 
very important to keep the reins low in turning to 
make the guiding process easy. At first, walk close 
to the animal so as to encourage him to go forward 
by occasionally touching the rump with one hand 
while the guiding is done with the other. As soon 
as he becomes accustomed to being driven he may 
be touched up with the lines, guided to the right and 
left, but should be stopped often to assure him that 
he is doing well (Fig. 5). 

Teach the foal "ivhoa," "get up,'' and "back.'' — 
Since these three terms are to be used so very much 



Driving the Foal 



41 



in the animars later life, he should be taught their 
meaning very early. For best results these terms 
should be taught one each day, beginning the next 
day after the foal has been driven with the lines. 
After driving for a short time or until the excitement 




Fig. 5. — Ti'acliing the fi)al to dr'wv with lines, the suix-iuglc removed. 



has worn off, give the command "whoa," following 
immediately with a sudden and positive pull on the 
lines (p. 66). Do not speak loud, but rely more on 
the pressure applied with the lines. The foal should 
be rewarded. After waiting a short time start by 
applying pressure on the rump, and after going until 
all is right, repeat the command and the pull as 
before. As soon as he shows indication of stopping 



42 Training the Foal 

at the command, do not pull on the lines. When 
he stops at the command alone, reward him. 

The next day, after driving for a short time and 
stopping at the command ''whoa," the foal should 
be taught the meaning of the term "get up." To 
do this, start the animal by the command ''get up," 
followed immediately by a rather sharp tap upon the 
rump. Tap the animal according to what he will 
stand and not so as to frighten him. As soon as he 
is going normally, stop by the command "whoa" and 
caress him. Repeat the process until he will start at 
the command alone. 

The following day teach the foal the meaning of 
the term "back." This should first be done in the 
way already suggested ; that is, by holding the hal- 
ter in one hand and applying pressure between the 
shoulder points with the other, at the same time 
giving the command "back." Repeat until the 
youngster will move back at the command alone. 
Now you are ready to snap on the lines and teach him 
to back from behind. At first it may be necessary 
to pull on the lines following the command. Repeat 
and reward him until he will back at the command. 
By the third day the foal should respond to all three 
commands. 

VALUE OF EARLY TRAINING 

The time required to carry out the above sugges- 
tions is but fifteen minutes for six consecutive days, 



Begin Training Early 43 

or ninety minutes in all, during which time the 
youngster has been taught to lead, to drive, to stop 
at the command ''whoa," to start at the command 
''get up" and to back on command. While he is 
not yet three weeks of age yet he will obey com- 
mands better than the average horse will ever obey 
them. The value of training begun thus early cannot 
be overestimated. It fixes the idea of subordination 
in the horse's mind at a time in life when no subse- 
quent treatment can shake it, and even though the 
time consumed in such training is quite insignificant, 
it adds as nothing else can to the future usefulness 
of the animal. 

There are two objections to training the colt while 
young. First, want of time on the part of the owner, 
and second, being trained, the youngster is likely to 
be driven or put to hard work before he is properly 
developed. For these reasons the colt is usually 
permitted to enjoy his independence until such time 
as he is needed for work, with the result that his 
general usefulness in many cases is much impaired. 
A horse should be reasonably mature before he is 
called upon to do service, but any time spent in his 
education prior to the date at which he goes to work 
will be repaid many times in the more satisfactory 
service that he will render. 



CHAPTER III 
TRAINING THE WORK HORSE 

In training or hitching horses, young or old, there 
are a few general considerations that should be kept 
constantly in mind. A horse should never be trusted 
more than is necessary. Children, women or in- 
competent men should never be left in charge of horses 
unless the animals are thoroughly acquainted with 
them. Many distressing accidents occur from trust- 
ing old family horses. A good horseman never runs 
risks when they can be avoided. 

In handling horses, the safest way is for the attend- 
ant to remain close to the animal's left shoulder, 
grasping the bridle close to the mouth with the right 
hand. In this position the horse is unable to injure 
him. If the horse becomes fractious, the attendant 
should stay close to the animal's left shoulder or 
get entirely out of his reach, for many serious acci- 
dents have resulted from horses rearing, striking 
and kicking in play, when being led by an attendant 
at the end of the lead strap. Never attempt to lead 
a fractious horse with a halter without looping 
the rope or tie-strap and slipping it into his mouth 
in the place of a bit, then running the rope or tie- 

44 



Harnessing and Hitching 45 

strap through the nose-band, thus forming a loop 
around the lower jaw, in which condition the horse 
can be easily controlled (p. 199). 

In bridling, harnessing and saddling a horse the 
work should be done from the left side. The har- 
ness should be gently but firmly placed upon the 
animal. The harness and other equipment should 
be of good quality and in good repair, and so 
adjusted as to fit the animal snugly. In hitching 
a horse into a pair of shafts, the shafts always should 
be raised and the animal led under or backed into 
them, or the vehicle drawn forward, as the horse is 
likely to step on a shaft and break it if backed in 
while they are on the ground. In hitching, the 
lines should be fastened into the bit and then placed 
where they can be reached easily before attaching 
the horse to the vehicle. In unhitching, the lines 
should be the last disengaged, and care should be 
taken that the animal is free from the vehicle before 
he is led away. Serious accidents often result from 
leading the horse out of the shafts before the hold- 
backs are unfastened. 

In tying to a post or hitching-rack, the horse 
should be secured by a strong rope or strap placed 
around his neck, then passed through the ring of the 
bit and on to the post. It is good practice to obtain 
a short strap about six inches long, provided with a 
loose ring and a snap at either end to secure in the 
bit-ring on either side so the loose ring will remain 



46 Training the Work Horse 

under the lower jaw. Now by snapping the lead- 
rein or running the tie-strap through this ring, 
pressure is brought to bear equally on either side in 
case the horse should pull. A horse should always 
be tied short, otherwise he may get his foot over the 
tie-strap, be unable to disengage it, break the tie- 
strap or the check -rein, become frightened and an 
accident result. 



AGE TO TRAIN HORSES FOR WORK 

At the present time there is much discussion as to 
the most profitable age at which to train horses for 
work. Some good horsemen state that they prefer 
not to have the horse worked until coming four years 
old, while others think a more useful animal will 
result if put to light work at two and one half or 
three years of age. Each of these methods may 
prove equally successful, depending on conditions. 
It would seem that these ages might well represent 
the extremes. As a rule, the horse should not be put 
to work under two and one half years of age, and even 
then the work should be light and the working hours 
short. If the work is too severe, or continued for 
too long a time, the animal will be retarded in his 
growth and he will not make as useful a horse as if 
the training had been delayed a few months. On the 
other hand, if the horse is thrifty, it is poor economy 
to keep him in idleness after he is four years of age. 



Training Young Horses to Work 47 

The breed, the individuality and the work per- 
formed all have a bearing upon the age to begin 
training. As a rule, the draft breeds mature younger 
than the lighter breeds, and therefore may be put to 
moderate work younger. Some individuals develop 
more rapidly than others, and as they mature earlier 
they may be put to work younger. The work per- 
formed likewise has a bearing on the age of training. 
Thus in the case of the draft horse, where force 
applied- at the collar is required, or in the case of the 
saddle horse, where the weight is borne upon the 
horse's back, the animal should be reasonably 
mature. On the other hand, when the horse is 
intended for fast work on the race track, many good 
horsemen feel that the training cannot begin too 
soon; thus we often find these men constructing 
miniature tracks around which the animals are led 
or driven by means of a long line by the time they 
are weaned, sometimes before. 

The breed and the work performed exert an influ- 
ence on the amount of training required. As a rule, 
the draft breeds are much more easily trained than 
the lighter breeds. There are two reasons for this : 
First, the draft breeds are larger, quieter and neither 
so active nor so high-strung as the lighter types. 
They are much more easily handled and not so likely 
to go wrong as the lighter types. Second, the work 
that draft breeds are called on to perform does not 
require the continuous training that is required of 



48 Training the Work Horse 

the lighter breeds ; the tasks are not numerous or 
difficult to learn, whereas the saddle or coach horse 
may be called upon to do a number of tasks, each of 
which is hard to learn and requires long and severe 
training. 



TRAIN THE HORSE WITHIN AN INCLOSURE 

In training the horse, it is of great advantage to 
provide an inclosure, varying in size according to the 
nature of the training or the temperament of the 
horse, but for most work twenty-five to fifty feet 
square will suffice. All obstructions likely to injure 
or attract the horse's attention, such as wagons, 
barrels, posts, bricks, stones, sticks and the like, 
should be removed. If the inclosure is within a 
barn or under a shed, the ceihng should be at least 
twelve feet high. No matter where the inclosure, 
the floor should be of soft earth. Never begin 
training the horse on cement, brick or even a hard 
wood floor. Not only is the horse hkely to slip and 
injure himself or the man in charge, but it is often 
found necessary to lay the horse down to convince 
him that we are his master, and the likelihood of 
injury is great if this is attempted on a hard floor, 
particularly cement or brick. Within such an inclos- 
ure it is much easier to get the horse's entire atten- 
tion, and should anything go wrong whereby he 
should free himself, he will be unable to get away. 



Training Inclosures. Examining 49 

Many advise turning the horse loose within the 
inclosure in order that he may become accustomed 
to the place in which he is to receive his early training. 



EXAMINE THE HORSE BEFORE TRAINING 

The horse should be carefully examined to see 
that he is in good physical condition before the 
training begins. In order to be effective in training, 
it is necessary to gain the horse's confidence and 
hold his attention. This is not possible with the 
animal in poor physical condition. Note the teeth 
to see if they are uneven or possess sharp edges, 
which are likely to injure the tongue or jaws. Such 
edges should be removed with a guarded rasp, 
otherwise the pain will detract the animal's atten- 
tion from the lessons we are trying to teach. Note 
the condition of the feet, and if they are out of pro- 
portion, level them with the rasp, otherwise the 
horse will be irregular in his action and may injure 
himself by interfering. Examine the horse for 
impaired vision and defective hearing. If his vision 
is impaired, he may run into objects, or seeing them 
but dimly may become frightened and uncontrollable. 
If his hearing is defective, he is at the disadvantage 
of not being able to understand spoken commands. 
The disadvantages under which such a horse labors 
are great, and it is important that such defects be 
noted in order that we may not ask him to do that 



50 Training the Work Horse 

which is impossible for him to accomplish. If we pro- 
ceed with such a horse as if he was normal, he may 
become confused, frightened, difficult to control and 
may endanger his own life as well as that of his 
master. 



HANDLE THE HORSE BEFORE TRAINING 

In many cases the horse breeder will not feel war- 
ranted in taking the time to train the foal as sug- 
gested in the previous chapter, even though the ani- 
mal's future usefulness is materially lessened by 
such neglect. The horse may be given his freedom 
until old enough to work, perhaps never being taught 
the use of the halter. Such a horse should first 
of all be made gentle, so that he will permit his en- 
tire body to be handled. Some untrained horses are 
so quiet that they will readily submit to any amount 
of handling, whereas others offer resistance, even 
when lightly touched. Familiarizing some horses 
to the touch requires much patience. Most horses 
are particularly sensitive about the ears, the under- 
line and the legs. 

It is a common practice to use some form of twitch 
to attract the horse's attention while handling these 
sensitive parts. While the use of the twitch is 
recommended in training vicious or spoiled horses, 
it should be used on the untrained horse only as a 
last resort. Kind treatment, well-directed effort 



Handling previous to Training 51 

and patience are preferred to the use of the twitch, 
and will overcome most horses. In case the horse 
is very sensitive to the touch and it is not safe for 
one to get near to caress him with the hand, other 
means must be devised. The English use a so- 
called " third hand," which is a stick somewhat simi- 
lar to a walking stick or cane. With such a stick 
rub the horse along the top of the neck. The dan- 
druff collecting about the base of the mane often irri- 
tates the part so that it itches, and the horse enjoys 
having it rubbed or scratched. After he has be- 
come familiar with the stick on top of the neck, pass 
it back, touching the withers lightly or not at all, 
and rub the back, the sides, the rump and the like. 
After a few minutes' work with the stick, the horse 
learns that he is not going to be harmed and will 
permit himself to be rubbed with the hand. 

The horse is now ready for the halter. Choose a 
strong leather halter, preferably one that has been in 
constant use, place it on the animal's head and tie 
securely in the stall. He should be left in the stall 
for some time in order that he may become familiar 
with the halter. 



TRAINING THE HORSE TO LEAD 

After the horse becomes accustomed to being 
handled, and familiar with the halter, he should be 
taught to lead. As this is a very important matter, 



52 Training the Work Horse 

due care should be exercised to avoid a misunder- 
standing between the horse and his master. The 
advice given in teaching the foal to lead (p. 34) 
applies here, but it may be necessary to employ other 
methods, particularly if the horse is rather stubborn. 
While the loin-hitch, which was recommended for 
use on the foal, is often successfully employed on 
older horses, it sometimes happens that better re- 
sults can be secured by the use of the tail-hitch or 
the quarters-hitch. 

The tail-hitch. — Secure a small rope or sash-cord 
about ten feet long, tie a stationary loop at one end, 
place the tail through this loop and bring the free end 
of the rope forward and pass through the ring on the 
halter or under the jaw strap. To prevent this 
slipping over the tail when it gets slack, take a small 
rope and make a surcingle, placing a ring at the top 
through which the rope leading from the tail to the 
halter may pass (Fig. 6). 

Take the halter strap in one hand the rope in the 
other, pull gently on the former, and as the horse 
begins to shake his head or to step back give the 
latter a sharp pull and the animal will move forward. 
Caress him until he quiets, and when his confidence 
has been restored repeat the process, using the rope 
when needed. In a few minutes the horse mil follow 
where led and the rope may be removed. 

While this hitch is a very effective method of teach- 
ing a horse to lead, care should be exercised in its 



Training the Horse to Lead 



53 



use. The under side of the tail is very tender and 
the roughened surface of the rope sometimes provokes 
the horse to kick, particularly if nervous. With 
such horses the quarters-hitch is to be preferred. 

The quarters-hitch. — Secure a small rope, or sash- 
cord, and tie a large loop at one end. This loop 




Fig. 6. — The tail-hitch used in teaching the young horse to lead. 

should be of sufficient size so that when placed in 
position on the horse it surrounds his quarters, leav- 
ing the knot well forward, on the back. Pass the 
free end along the back and through the ring on the 
halter (Fig. 7). By pulling on this rope pressure 
is brought on the quarters, and the animal moves 
forward. This hitch has the advantage that the 



54 



Training the Work Horse 



pressure is brought to bear at a place where there is 
Httle or no Hkelihood of injuring the horse, and yet 
the pressure stimulates a forward movement as well 
if not better than either the loin- or tail-hitch. 



TEACH THE HORSE TO FOLLOW WHEN LOOSE 

In order to facihtate catching the horse when 
loose, as at pasture, it is of advantage to have him 




Fig. 7. — The quarters-hitch, used in teucluni; the \ oung liorse to lead. 

trained to come up to us, and to follow. AA^iile 
there are many methods of teaching the horse to 
follow, only two are here given, one to be employed 
on teachable and gentle horses, the other on horses 
rather stubborn in their disposition. As soon as the 
teachable horse has been taught to lead, procure a 



Teaching the Horse to Follow 55 

whip, and facing the animal, take a position in front, 
or slightly to the left, caress him by gently rubbing 
the whip over his back and rump. When ready to 
start, say ''come here," and immediately follow the 
command by striking the horse on the rump with 
the whip, which will induce him to walk forward. 
Walk backward at the same rate as the horse walks 
forward, giving the command "come here" to in- 
duce him to follow. When he follows at command, 
place the whip under the left arm. This method may 
require some time, but with a little patient effort the 
teachable horse will follow you without the use of 
either halter or whip. 

Some horsemen in teaching a horse to follow pre- 
fer to turn the animal loose in a small inclosure, say 
twenty-five feet square. It is important that the 
floor be of earth, and that all objects be removed, as 
they may attract the colt's attention. If the horse is 
two years old, or more, some prefer to teach this 
lesson before training to the use of the halter. When 
ready, turn the horse loose in the inclosure and 
snap the whip a few times to attract his attention. 
Remaining near the center, follow him around a 
few times, occasionally snapping him about the 
heels with the whip. Soon he will stop in the corner 
farthest from you. Walk directly to him, giving 
him an opportunity to turn to you. If he turns his 
heels as if to kick or run away, strike him severely 
about the hind legs. Soon he will understand that 



56 Training the Work Horse 

he exposes himself to punishment by turning away 
from you. Repeat until he turns his head toward 
you when approached. 

As this was the way you wished the horse to turn, 
he should be rewarded by having his crest scratched 
with the end of the whip, and if convenient by feed- 
ing a carrot or other dainty. You are now ready to 
teach him to follow by the method described above. 
If he refuses to obey the command "come here" 
and runs away, strike him sharply about the heels. 
If he obeys, caress him. Soon the animal will under- 
stand that he is punished for running away and 
caressed for following. When he understands this 
he will follow and you may discard the whip. 

TRAINING TO THE USES OF THE BIT 

Perhaps no other factor in the training of horses, 
whether for work or pleasure, is of greater importance 
than that of educating to the uses of the bit. The 
thoroughness with which this is accomplished will 
go far towards determining their usefulness. Inas- 
much as the conveyance of the master's desire to 
the horse's mind for execution is largely through the 
hands, reins, bit and mouth, little progress can be 
made and none should be attempted until this means 
of communication has been established. 

Before bitting, the mouth should be examined 
for sores, as it is not possible properly to train a 



A Good Mouth 57 

horse td the uses of the bit while suffering from sore 
mouth. Such an examination is not difficult. Place 
the horse where there is good fight. To examine 
the left side, pass the left hand into the right side 
of the mouth, grasp the tongue gently, and pull it 
to one side, but not out of the mouth, which will 
expose the bar, or branch of the lower jaw on the 
left side. The thumb of the right hand may now 
be placed in the roof of the mouth so as to separate 
the jaws, when the left side of the mouth may be 
observed. The other side should be examined in 
a similar way. 

Importance of a good mouth. — No factor contributes 
so much to the pleasure, comfort and safety of either 
rider or driver as a responsive mouth — one that 
always obeys promptly the slightest instruction 
from the master. A good mouth — one with sen- 
sitive bars — is natural to the horse. '' Tender," 
''hard," and all kinds of ''spoiled" mouths result 
from improper handling. Such spoiled mouths 
arevery aggravating and often the cause of many 
other imperfections — tongue lolling, crossing the 
jaws, hobbling, kicking, balking, running away and 
the fike — many of which when well established 
are very difficult to overcome (p. 249). 

Bitting the horse. — The object of correct bitting 
is to preserve, instead of diminish, the natural sensi- 
tiveness of the bars of the horse's mouth. The kind 
of bit to use, therefore, is important. Because of 



58 Training the Work Horse 

the importance of correct bitting, many kinds of bits 
have been devised for training the horse as well as 
for subsequent use (p. 320). Many of these bits 
irritate the tender parts and destroy rather than 
preserve the natural sensitiveness of the lips and 
bars. While any bit may slightly abrade the lips 
and bars of the mouth, many of these patent bits 
produce deep sores. This, of course, renders training 
to the uses of the bit unnecessarily painful, and may 
produce a spoiled mouth. 

The proper bit to use depends on the object 
sought. Thus in training the saddle horse one 
type of bit is demanded (p. 151) ; in the coach 
horse another type (p. 134) ; in the trotting horse 
still another; and the work horse responds more 
readily to a bit differing from any of the above types. 
Whatever kind of bit is used it should be strong, 
without being heavy and cumbersome. In train- 
ing the work horse a straight or slightly curved bar- 
bit with leather guards, and covered with rubber 
or leather in case the horse's mouth is tender, can- 
not be improved upon. 

Many training bits are provided with keys at- 
tached to the mouthpiece, which encourage the horse 
to champ and thus familiarize himself with the bit 
(Fig. 94, 26 and 27). While key-bits are useful, 
especially for those horses which persist in keeping 
a dry mouth, sulkily refusing to champ the bit, as 
the keys assist in the work of bitting such an ani- 



Adapting to the Bit 59 

mal, they should never be used on nervous horses 
that champ the straight bit. Occasionally the 
mouth of a nervous horse is spoiled by the use of 
the key-bit. In case the horse refuses to champ the 
bit and the key-bit is used, its usefulness may be 
increased by smearing the keys and mouthpiece 
with honey or other sweets, as such materials en- 
courage the horse to lick and champ the bit. 

When placing the bit in the horse's mouth for the 
first time, carefully lift the bridle with the left hand 
until it is above the eyes, then pass the right hand 
over the animal's head, quietly lift the poll-piece 
and place the bridle in position. At the same time 
open the horse's mouth slightly by pressing the bars 
under the lower lip with the thumb and forefinger 
of the left hand and guide the bit into the mouth. 
If the horse refuses to open his mouth, insert the 
fingers of the left hand into the mouth and tickle 
the roof. The bit will then slip into the mouth, 
and it should be arranged so as to lie on the bars. 

The adjustment of the bridle and the length of 
the bit are important. The length of the head- 
stall must be adjusted so as to bring the bit in mild 
contact with the bars of the mouth. If the head- 
stall is too short, the bit is drawn up into the mouth, 
too far and the bars as well as the corners of the 
mouth soon become sore and the animal may be- 
come vicious ; on the other hand, if too long, the bit 
drops in the mouth, and the animal becomes care- 



60 Training the Work Horse 

less. The bit should be of proper length for the 
horse. If it is too long it will pull through the 
mouth so that the pressure will not be equal on 
either bar and the horse may become confused 
(p. 321). 

The bitting-harness. — The horse can usually be 
made familiar with the uses of the bit by the appli- 
cation of the bitting-harness. This harness con- 
sists of an open bridle with a large, smooth, guarded 
bit and check-rein, surcingle and crupper and two 
side lines running from the bit to rings on either 
side of the surcingle (Fig. 8). If the horse is of a 
nervous disposition, it will often allay his fear to 
permit him to smell and feel this harness before 
placing it on his back (Fig. 13). Arrange the har- 
ness with much care. 

With the bitting-harness properly adjusted, turn 
the horse into the training paddock to familiarize 
himself with the bit. The check and side-reins should 
be left slack at first. During the first few lessons 
the bit should not be retained in the animal's mouth 
for more than half an hour at a time. He may be 
given two or perhaps three lessons a day. Subse- 
quently the lessons may be longer. Gradually from 
day to day the reins should be shortened, care being 
taken that they are never made so short as to place 
the head in an uncomfortable position, or draw the 
bit so tightly as to make the corners of the mouth 
sore. The number of lessons necessary to familiarize 



Training to the Uses of the Bit 61 

the horse with the uses of the bit will depend entirely 
on the individual. Some horses will drive after one 
or two, while others will require a week or more be- 
fore they fully understand its uses. 




Fig. S. — The bitting-harncss, for teaching the uses of the bit. 

During this bitting process some horses acquire 
the habit of throwing their heads up and down, a 
habit which when once established is very annoying 
and often difficult to overcome. Among saddle 



62 Training the Work Horse 

horses the habit is dangerous to the rider. To 
overcome this, one must use a martingale and an 
over-draw check-rein (p. 327). Occasionally a horse 
shows a disposition to carry his head too low, in 
which case the over-draw check-rein should be used. 
In common practice there are two other forms of 
side-reins used on the bitting-harness, the ''elastic" 
rein, and "running" rein. The elastic rein is com- 
posed of rubber and is attached the same as the 
leather side-rein described above. The leather side- 
rein is often spoken of as the ''fixed rein." The 
running rein is made from a small rope or sash-cord 
and is attached as follows : The surcingle and 
bridle are similar to those described above save both 
side- and check-rein are removed. Tie the cord 
or rein in the lower ring of the surcingle on the off- 
side, pass it through the bit and back through the 
ring at the top of the surcingle, then down through 
the bit on the near-side and back to the lower ring 
on the near-side and tie fast. Instead of tying the 
ends fast to the rings on the surcingle, this rein is 
sometimes modified by passing one end up through 
the ring at the top of the surcingle then down to the 
other end and tying the two ends together in such a 
way that they will slip through the rings on both the 
bridle and surcingle (Fig. 9). Each of these reins 
has its advantages and disadvantages: the fixed 
rein sometimes produces horses with "lugging" 
mouths; the running rein sometimes produces 



Driving the Horse 



63 



'' unresponsive" mouths, and the elastic rein some- 
times creates a ''boring" horse — one that thrusts 




I'lG. 0. — Kuijuing aide-reins, useful in bitting tlie horse. 

his nose forward and drops his head at the same time 
and often snatches the Hnes through the hands of the 
driver. 

DRIVING THE HORSE WITH LINES 

As soon as the horse becomes famiUar with the bit, 
the side-reins may be substituted for hnes and he 
may be driven about the inclosure. It is important 



64 



Training the Work Horse 



to pass the lines through the rings on either side of 
the surcingle, as the lines will then pass the hind 
quarters low and thus prevent the horse from turn- 
ing with his head towards us. It is very important 
to keep the lines low in turning to make the guiding 




Fig. 10. — Teaching the 



\i_< 1 1 ri \'i' w il li li II 



process easy (Fig, 10). To avoid a mishap at tliis 
time, some suggest the use of a long rein to serve as a 
lead rein if perchance the animal should turn his 
head towards us while driving. 

During the first driving lesson the horse should be 
reined but mildly if at all, since if tight, the rein will 
have a tendency to induce him to run backward, 
which should by all means be prevented. Further, 



Driving the Horse with Lines 65 

the horse is hable to lower his head and give himself 
a jerk and thus distract his attention from the work 
in hand. For a few minutes allow the horse consid- 
erable liberty, in order that he may become accus- 
tomed to going away from you, at the same time 
permitting you to walk behind. This first driving 
lesson should not last long, and the horse should be 
started by tapping him with the Une, and he should 
be stopped by gentle pressure on the bit. Avoid 
using spoken language until ready to teach the 
meaning of the words. 

The horse should now be taught to guide to the 
right and to the left. To teach him to turn to the 
left, slacken the right line and pull smartly on the 
left one, not with a jerk, but with a swinging pull. 
If the horse comes around too far, hold the whip 
on the left shoulder. Do not pull him back with the 
right line, and do not strike him with the whip, as 
either movement will confuse him. If, however, the 
horse does not respond when the left line is pulled, 
tap him on the right shoulder with the whip to in- 
duce him to turn away quickly and not to give him 
time to fight the bit. After he has turned a few 
times to the left, slacken the left side-line and give 
a swinging pull on the right one to induce him to 
turn to the right, taking the same precautions as 
above. Repeat this process, using less and less force 
as the animal learns to turn. 

Teaching the command "whoa." — If all has gone 



66 Training the Work Horse 

well, the next day after teaching the horse to drive 
with the lines, he should be taught the meaning of 
''whoa." This word should be used only when we 
wish the animal to stop and stand. This is an im- 
portant matter in the education of the horse. The 
horse that continues to move after the command is 
given, or that is continually stepping about when 
you wish him to stand quietly, is very aggravating, 
and his usefulness as well as his value is lessened. 
The safety, comfort and pleasure in handling a horse 
that promptly obeys the command ''whoa" are em- 
phasized by the fact that he will command a higher 
price on the market. 

After driving the horse about the inclosure a few 
times, or until he is going smoothly, give the com- 
mand "whoa," followed by a strong swinging pull 
on both lines, and the moment the horse stops 
slacken the lines, otherwise he may become a con- 
firmed lugger. If necessary to stop the horse, 
repeat the word and action. As he has done what 
you wished him to do, he should be caressed before 
starting again. It will aid the horse in fixing the 
impression, if he is stopped in the same place for a 
few times. The second or third time he will stop 
there at the command alone. Do not stop too many 
times at one place or there will be difficulty in 
getting him to pass. About the third or fourth 
time, therefore, try him at a new place. It may be 
necessary to follow the command with the action of 



The Signals or Commands 67 

the lines at this new place. Repeat until the horse 
will stop at any place when commanded. 

Teaching the command "getup.^' — The next day 
after teaching the horse the meaning of the term 
"whoa," he should be taught the command "get 
up." Previous to this time the horse should have 
been started by tapping him on the rump with the 
line. Drive the horse about the training inclosure 
several times, frequently stopping him at the command 
"whoa." When going smoothly, stop him prepara- 
tory to teaching the meaning of the command 
"get up." When ready to start, give the command 
"get up," pausing a moment, then striking him a tap 
with the whip. This will start him forward. When 
going smoothly, stop him at the command "whoa." 
Repeat as before, starting with the term "get up" 
and stopping with the term "whoa," until he will 
stop and start at the command alone. It is good 
practice to impress the meaning of these terms so 
thoroughly that the horse will obey, even though he 
be running loose in the inclosure and the commands 
be given by one standing in the center of the paddock. 

Teaching the cominand "back." — ^ The meaning 
of the term "back" may be taught immediately 
following that of "get up." With the horse stand- 
ing, draw the near line tight, give the command 
"back" and follow immediately with a sharp swing- 
ing pull with the off line. This will induce the horse 
to step backward. Follow with the command and 



68 . Training the Work Horse 

give the see-saw pulL Stop at the command ' ' whoa. ' ' 
Do not tire the horse by continually backing him for 
a prolonged period. Start him forward at the 
command ''get up"; stop him at the command 
''whoa" and repeat the backing lesson at the com- 
mand "back" until he obeys the voice promptly. 

HARNESSING, HITCHING AND DRIVING THE HORSE 

To be harnessed is a very important part of the 
horse's education. Animals that have behaved well 
up to this time often become confused and not only 
disobey commands but may become uncontrollable. 
This comes about naturally when the horse is har- 
nessed and hitched without proper preparation. We 
have seen that pressure in front induces the horse 
to go backward, and that pressure behind induces 
him to move forward (p. 28). Thus when the horse 
is harnessed and hitched without proper preparation, 
and started forward at the command "get up," the 
pressure from the breast-harness or collar induces him 
to step backward. Now he has received the com- 
mand to go forward and the stimulus to move back- 
ward, which confuses him, as he cannot do both. If 
he disregards the command and obeys the stimulus 
of the pressure and moves backward, the breeching 
presses against the quarters, thus inducing him to 
go forward. The horse's confusion is now greater 
than before. While he is moving back and forth 



Poling the Horse 69 

between the pressure of the collar and the breeching, 
he is so excited that he does not heed the commands 
of the driver, who often becomes aggravated and 
strikes the animal a sharp cut with the whip. This 
frightens the already excited horse, and he moves 
forward with a bound. The driver then jerks him 
backward and holds a tight line. Thus the horse is 
punished both at the mouth and in the rear. By 
this time the animal's confusion is complete, and he 
is likely to rear, kick, run away or do anything to 
free himself. 

A little patient effort spent in familiarizing the 
horse with the pressure of the harness and shafts, 
and in teaching him what is expected of him, will 
avoid all such confusion and risk. 

Poling the horse. — Before harnessing or hitching, 
the horse should be made familiar with the pressure 
caused by the harness and shafts. To do this, 
procure a light pole five or six feet long, and let the 
horse smell and feel it with his nose (Fig. 11). Gently 
rub the pole over the nose, the side of the face and 
up to the mane and crest. After scratching the 
crest pass the pole back to the withers, down over 
the shoulder, and along the outside and inside of the 
forelegs. Pass the pole along the back to the hind 
quarters, down along the outside and inside of the 
hind legs. Repeat the process first on one side, 
and then on the other, rubbing every part of the 
body (Fig. 12). 



70 



Training the Work Horse 



If at any time the horse should become excited 
and refuse to stand, allow him to touch the pole 
with his nose, and gradually work back over him 
again. After he has become perfectly submissive 
to the pressure on all parts of his body, it is a good 




Fig. 11. — Poling the head and nose. 

plan to place the pole under the tail, as this will 
teach him to stand while the crupper is being ar- 
ranged. To do this, stand a little to one side and 
with the pole touch both hind legs a short distance 
above the hocks. With the left hand, carefully 
raise the tail, and with the right hand gentl}^ work 
the pole upward a few inches ; pause a moment and 



Poling the Horse 



71 



repeat, until the pole rests directly under the tail, 
lying across the quarters. After a moment, care- 
fully raise the tail and gently remove the pole, so as 
not to frighten the horse. A few repetitions of 




Fig. 12. — Poling the body and legs. 



this process will render most horses very easy to 
crupper. 

Poling has a very desirable effect upon the horse, 
especially if the animal is of a nervous and sensitive 
disposition. It will render him gentle to the touch 
of the harness, shafts or any other object coming in 
contact with the body. After harnessing, some 
continue the poling process by arranging two poles, 
one on either side of the body, similar to shafts, 



72 Training the Work Horse 

securing the front end by strapping to the hame tugs, 
and the rear end to the hip-straps and breeching, 
and then driving the horse about the inclosure a few 
times. The rear end of the poles is then unstrapped 
from the hip-straps and permitted to drag on the 
ground as the horse is being driven about the pad- 
dock. This has the added advantage of famihariz- 
ing him with the position and pressure of the shafts 
as well as to the pressure of the collar and the breech- 
ing, while in motion. 

Harnessing the horse. — ■ With the horse properly 
poled, harnessing is an easy task. Put him in his 
accustomed stall and allow him to smell and feel the 
harness (Fig. 13). This is important, for occa- 
sionally horses are frightened out of their senses b}^ 
the careless driver throwing the harness over their 
backs before allowing them to feel and smell it. In 
this manner, the bands and loose straps striking the 
animal on the legs and abdomen often provoke 
kicking. Such excitement can be avoided easil}^ 
by permitting the horse to smell and feel the harness 
and by gently lifting it over his back. Carefully 
raise the tail, and gently put the crupper strap on, 
then step to the side and fasten the bands. With 
care, work the breast harness or collar over the head 
as suggested in bridling (p. 59). 

While the harness should not be new, smelling of 
things unfamiliar to the horse, it should be of good 
quality and in good repair, for if a part breaks there 



Fitting the Harness 



73 



may be trouble and the horse ruined for all time. 
When convenient, use harness that has been in con- 
stant use. It should be so adjusted as to fit per- 
fectly. The collar should receive attention, as it is 




Fig. 13. — The young horse becoming familiar with the harness. 

by means of this that the horse exerts his power. 
(For discussion on fitting harness see page 317.) 

A careful examination of the shoulders and quar- 
ters of the horse must be made from time to time. 
Oftentimes the collar that fits perfectly in the begin- 
ning soon becomes too large, due to the horse losing 
flesh. The untrained horse's flesh is very tender, 
and the friction of the harness often produces sore- 



74 Training the Work Horse 

ness. The parts likely to become abraded are the 
shoulders, caused by the collar; the back, caused 
by the saddle of the harness ; the tail, caused by 
the crupper ; and the quarters, caused by the breech- 
ing. At the slightest sign of any abrasion, the train- 
ing must temporarily cease. Bathe the sore parts 
with soap and water, then apply an astringent, as 
salt and water, or alum and water, to harden and 
heal them. As soon as the soreness has disappeared, 
the training should be resumed (p. 373). 

Hitching single. — After harnessing, but before 
hitching, tie the traces to the ring on each side of the 
breeching, thus causing a slight pressure on the 
collar and breeching, and drive the horse about 
the inclosure. Start him at the command ''get up," 
stop him at " whoa " and have him move backward 
at the command " back." Turn him to the right 
and left, and when he is going smoothly take him 
out on the highway. At first, because of the new 
environment, the horse may act strangely, but go 
through with all the commands and signals that 
he has thus far been taught. The horse is now 
ready to be hitched to a vehicle (Fig. 14). 

Training-cart. — If at all convenient, the first time 
the horse is hitched, a training-cart — one with long 
shafts, substantially constructed, and the seat so ar- 
ranged that the driver can get off and on quickly — 
should be employed (Fig. 15). Such a cart can be 
constructed from the rear wheels and the axle of a 



Harnessing and Hitching the Horse 75 




Fig. 14. — Driving in harness previous to hitching to a veliiel 




Fig. 15. — Acquainting the horse with tiie training-cart. 



76 Training the Work Horse 

buggy or carriage by fastening two long poles, hick- 
ory or any tough, springy wood, to the axle and by 
fastening a cross-bar and whiffletree in front and 
a board seat in the rear. The shafts should be 
twelve or fourteen feet long, with provision at the 
ends for the attachment of a strap across from 
point to point to prevent the horse, in rearing, from 
throwing his front legs over the ends of the shafts. 
Training-carts can be purchased on any market 
where buggies are sold. Many of these carts are 
provided with steps in the rear, which add to the 
utility. 

Such a cart possesses many advantages, particu- 
larly in the training of stubborn and unruly horses. 
In rearing, the horse strikes his front legs against 
the strap in front and goes no higher ; in kicking, 
he is so far ahead of the vehicle and driver that he 
does little or no damage ; in turning around suddenly, 
he is obliged to make so large a circle that he either 
gets over his fright or becomes discouraged before 
going far ; in throwing himself, the shafts are so long 
and springy that little or no damage is done ; in 
running away, all that need be done is to give him 
his head a moment until the muscles of the neck are 
relaxed, and then, by giving a swinging pull with 
one line, his head is turned so far to one side that he 
must either stop or fall; and should the horse refuse 
to obey the bit in turning around, we have but to 
dismount, pull gently on one rein and at the same 



Hitching the Horse to Vehicle 



77 



time carry the cart around, which will point him in 
the direction we wish to go. 

Familiarize the horse with the vehicle. — The horse 
should be poled again before hitching. Lead the 
horse up to the vehicle and allow him to smell and 
feel the shafts. Rub them along his head, neck, 




Fig. 16. — Acquainting him with the top buggy. 

shoulders and forelegs, both inside and outside. 
Lead him up between the shafts, allowing them to 
rest on his back, then drop them at his feet. Re- 
peat this process several times and let him smell 
and feel the cross-bars, dash-board and the like 
(Figs. 15 and 16). Turn the horse around, draw the 
vehicle up so that the shafts are even with his heels, 
and drop them as before. Pull the rig forward and 
place the shafts on his back, then back it, rubbing 



78 



Training the Work Horse 



the shafts over the rump, down along the hind legs 
both on the outside and inside, dropping them occa- 
sionally. Finally bring the rig forward until the 
cross-bar touches the horse's quarters, first gently 
and then more forcibly. 

Now the horse may be hitched to the vehicle with 




Fig. 17.- 



■ Hitched for the first time, showing method of attacliiiig the 
kicking-strap. 



perfect safety. While there is little or no likelihood 
that a horse trained as suggested above will give 
trouble, as a precautionary measure the use of the 
kicking-strap is suggested. This is a heavy strap 
placed above the rump just back of the hips and one 
end buckled to each shaft (Fig. 17). As a further 
safety measure, it is also recommended that an 



Handling with a Vehicle 79 

assistant remain at the horse's head to aid in 
starting, stopping and turning if need be. When 
all is ready, the driver should take his position behind 
the cart, not on it at first, and start the horse at the 
command ''get up." At the same time, the assistant 
should aid by pulling the cart forward. After the 
horse takes a few steps, stop at the command "whoa." 
Repeat until the horse understands what is expected 
of him. At first it may be necessary for the driver 
to aid in turning by carrying the cart around, 
especially if the training inclosure is small. As 
soon as the horse will obey the commands "get up" 
and "whoa" and will guide to the right and left, 
the driver may mount the cart and drive out on the 
highway. The assistant should be provided with a 
long lead strap and should walk along beside the 
horse until the latter becomes familiar with the new 
environment. He may then mount the vehicle 
with the driver, retaining the long lead strap so as 
to be ready to meet any emergency. 

The horse should be stopped and started often to 
assure him that he is doing what is expected of him. 
After driving at a walk until all is going smoothly, 
the horse may then be touched up into a trot. Slow 
down to a walk and repeat. On the return to the 
training paddock the horse should not go out of a 
walk. It is not good practice to drive back and forth 
past the barn during the first lesson, as the colt is 
likely to want to turn in and he may give some trouble. 



80 Training the Work Horse 

Teaching the command "steady J' — As the com- 
mand "whoa" should be given only when we wish 
the horse to stop and stand, so is it very important 
that he be taught the use of the term ''steady" very 
early in his career. While this term is to be used 
under a variety of conditions, its general meaning 
should be to slacken and pay attention. Thus if 
we wish the horse to maintain a certain speed, we 
say "steady" in a soothing tone; if we wish him 
to slack the speed, the same term is used but in ' a 
stronger tone ; if the horse is frightened and we wish 
him to quiet down, the command "steady" is given 
in a high tone and the lines are used in a character- 
istic see-saw manner; and if the horse is about to 
pull a heavy load and we wish him to pay attention, 
we give the command in a rather deep tone and hold 
evenly on the lines. 

The first usage of the command "steady" that 
should be taught is that of slackening the speed, as 
this applies when the horse is excited and we wish 
him to calm. This requires both judgment and 
patient effort. When all is going smoothly, encour- 
age the horse until he is going at a very lively rate, 
then give the command "steady," followed by a 
gentle see-saw motion of the lines. Wlien he slows 
down to an even trot, caress him by rubbing or strok- 
ing him over the rump with the whip. Repeat until 
he will slow down at the command alone. 

Backing the vehicle. — After the horse has been 



Driving to Vehicle 



81 



driven several times and is going smoothly, he should 
be taught to back the rig. To do this, repeat the 
lesson on backing (p. 67) before hitching. Some 
prefer to take a position in front (Fig. 18). This 
has the advantage that should the horse refuse 




Fig. 18. — Teaching to back with the lines. 

to obey the command and the lines, you can assist 
him (as in Fig. 19) by applying pressure on the 
chest with the ends of the fingers when, according 
to the natural impulse, he will step backward. \^1iile 
working in this position, the driver applies the 
pressure with the right hand, pulls the lines with the 
left, and gives the command ''back" at the same 
time. After the horse learns to back with the 



82 



Training the Work Horse 



driver in front, he then takes his position behind the 
horse and proceeds as in teaching to back (p. 67). 
Now that the horse obeys the command readily, 
hitch him to the vehicle and drive part way up a 
slight elevation. Stop him and give the command 
"back," followed by a see-saw motion of the lines. 




Fig. 19. — Teaching the horse to back a vehicle. 

To back the rig down such an elevation requires little 
or no pressure on the breeching. If more convenient, 
have an assistant take a position in front of the horse 
(Fig. 19). By employing some such methods as these 
the animal learns to back the vehicle in a natural 
manner. Repeat, stop, start, back, turn to the right 
and left until the horse is familiar with every detail. 
Train the horse to come under the shafts. — It is 
very aggravating to be obliged to lead the horse in 
front of the vehicle, leave him and go back and pull 



Driving to Vehicle 83 

the rig forward, especially if he keeps stepping up 
and occasionally walks off and leaves us tugging at 
the shafts. To avoid this, train the horse to come 
under the shafts from the beginning. Take the 
horse to the training paddock, hold the whip up to one 
side and over him and try to make him go under it 
by pulling his head toward the whip. If he obeys, 
caress him ; if he refuses, lays back his ears or steps 
back, reach over and tap him rather lightly with the 
whip, return it to its former position, and ask him to 
go under as before. If he refuses, repeat. When he 
goes under the whip at the signal, hold the shafts 
up and he will walk under them. If he should 
refuse, hold the whip in the hand with the shafts. 
After he steps under the shafts, lower them and 
arrange the shaft tugs, traces and hold-backs. 

Caressing with the whip. — ■ Early in the horse's 
training he should become familiar with the uses of 
the whip, not only as a means of punishment, but as 
a means of reward. The way to caress the horse 
with the whip is to place it gently on the body and 
carefully stroke or rub the animal. To teach the 
horse this usage of the whip, take a position in front 
of him similar to teaching him to follow (p. 54). 
Begin by rubbing or stroking his mane and crest, 
then his back, sides, rump and lastly the quarters. 
As you are stroking him, feed him dainties, as sugar 
or a carrot. Ask the horse to follow you to some 
object at the command "come here," as suggested. 



84 Training the Work Horse 

This object should not be such as to frighten him, 
as a robe, but something famihar to the horse. 
Keep caressing him as he follows along by stroking 
with the whip and by an occasional taste of sugar. 
After following to a few familiar objects try a strange 
one, as a robe, since horses are naturally afraid of 
robes. This time care must be exercised. It may 
be necessary to try several times before he will 
touch the robe with his nose, but by constant caress- 
ing and occasional tastes of sweets he will walk up to 
it. By this time he has come to look upon the con- 
stant stroking as a signal that no harm is to come 
to him. 

Hitching double. — If the horse is to be worked in 
a team, his training should be similar to that sug- 
gested above. When ready to hitch double, get a 
well-trained, gentle, but active horse, if the one you 
are training is active, for it is a mistake to hitch a 
quick, active one with a slow, lazy horse. The 
vehicle to which they are attached should be pro- 
vided with a good brake. The horse in training 
should be hitched to the off side and the team should 
be driven at first in a closed field. A^Tien hitching 
double for the first time, it is a good practice to keep 
a pair of single lines on the horse in training, which 
can be handled by an assistant. If one has two 
horses in training that he wishes to work together, 
they can be hitched together at this time if each has 
been trained as suggested above. If they do not 



Teaching the Horse not to he Afraid 85 

match well in disposition, the impulsive one should 
be restrained and the slower one urged, so that when 
hitched together they will have nearly the same gait 
and respond similarly to the commands (Fig. 20). 




Fig. 20. — Young horses liitched double for the first time. 



TRAINING THE HORSE TO OBJECTS OF FEAR 

The horse should be made familiar with the various 
sounds and objects he is likely to meet, particularly 
along the busy thoroughfares of cities. Noise, 
such as is produced by brass bands, street car gongs, 
and the fierce shrieking whistles of the railroad 
engine, and objects such as traction engines, motor 
cars, trains and the like, is likely to frighten the 



86 Training the Work Horse 

untrained horse out of his senses and he may prove 
a source of real danger. 

The horse should be driven once or twice before 
going through the course to familiarize him with 
frightful objects. At first his attention is taken up 
by the pressure of the harness, shafts and the ve- 
hicle following, and he gives little or no attention 
to objects along the road, which later may frighten 
him. 

For best results in giving this lesson use nothing 
but the bridle, surcingle and lines. Since the horse 
should have the free use of his head he should not 
be reined. To train the horse to endure strange 
sounds, stand him in the center of the inclosure and 
at first have an assistant hold the lines. If the horse 
has not received the command " whoa" at various 
angles, he should at this time. To do this, circle 
around the horse, giving the command ''whoa" every 
few steps. Procure an old tin pan or anything that 
will make a noise and walk around the horse as 
before. When in front of him gently start the noise. 
The first time or two around, it may be necessary to 
stop the noise as you pass behind the horse, par- 
ticularly if he is very nervous. Gradually increase 
the racket until by the fourth or fifth round he will 
stand while you make all the noise you can. You 
may now give the pan to the assistant and have him 
walk in front, making all the noise he can while you 
drive the horse after him, frequently stopping and 



Objects of Fear 87 

starting at the commands. Next have the assistant 
run, while you drive after him in a trot. 

To teach the horse to endure strange objects, have 
the assistant take a position about a rod in front of 
the horse, facing him, and with his uphfted hands 
full of old papers. Drive the horse toward the assist- 
ant, who should move backward as the animal 
approaches. Drive the animal between the out- 
stretched arms, and have the assistant carefully close 
in and gently touch either side of the neck with the 
papers. Rub them over the head and along the neck 
to convince the horse that they are harmless. Drop 
the papers a few at a time and drive over them, per- 
mitting him to stop and touch them with his nose 
if he likes. The papers may now be placed in a large 
pile and the horse driven through them with perfect 
safety (Fig. 21). 

In some such manner, the horse should be famil- 
iarized with other objects, such as umbrellas, flags, 
objects along the road and the like that are likely to 
frighten him. In fact, he should be driven up to 
anything that frightens him in the least and per- 
mitted to touch it with his nose. It is rather im- 
portant that the horse very early in his career be 
made familiar with motor cars, street cars, trains, 
engines and the like. After he understands the 
meaning of the term ''steady" (p. 80) and to be 
caressed by stroking with the whip (p. 83), this 
should not be difficult to teach. The street car is 



Training the Work Horse 




Frightened Horses 89 

the best object with which to train the horse to 
strange things, as we know when it is coming and 
where it is going, which we are never sure of in the 
case of an automobile. Choose a road or street 
where the car-Une crosses, drive the horse up to 
within, say approximately, one hundred yards of the 
track and stop until a car passes. If he seems 
nervous, caress him with the whip by stroking or 
rubbing his back, and by the command ''steady." 
Drive over the tracks and something like an equal 
distance beyond, and stop while another car passes. 
This time the noise is in the rear. Repeat this 
process, working the horse closer as each car passes, 
until he will stand within a few feet of the tracks as 
it passes. If perchance the car should stop at the 
crossing, drive the horse up to it and let him feel it 
with his nose. 

Never whip the horse past an object that causes 
him fright. At the time he probably is so frightened 
that he does not notice the blows of the whip until 
the object is past, in which case he may associate 
the pain with the object which caused his fright ; or 
if he does feel the whip, he knows that it cannot do 
him great injury ; whereas he does not know the 
possibilities of the object and prefers the blows of 
the former to facing the latter. In any event whip- 
ping a frightened horse only increases his excitement 
and makes him more difficult to drive past the object. 
The better way is to caress him with the whip and 



90 Training the Work Horse 

command him to go ''steady/' when he will calm, 
if the signal and command have been taught prop- 
erly. Then he should be made to face the object, 
and if convenient, to feel it with his nose. Never 
let the horse hurry past an object or noise that 
frightens him. It may take some skillful manipula- 
tion and much patient effort to familiarize him with 
all the objects that cause him alarm, but without 
such training his education is essentially incomplete 
and at any time he may be frightened out of his 
senses, become uncontrollable and a serious accident 
may result. 

"Family broke." — In the show ring, on the horse 
market, in the sale stables and in fact wherever 
horses are shown or dealt with the terms "family 
broke" and ''family horse" are used. These terms 
signify that the horse has been trained so that he is 
perfectly safe to drive by any one accustomed to 
handling horses. Such animals are easily harnessed 
— bridled, cruppered and the like — often will fol- 
low at the command "come here," go under the 
shafts at the signal, stand while being hitched, while 
mounting the vehicle, arranging the robes and until 
commanded to go forward. In addition they are 
familiar with all noise, such as brass bands, car gongs 
and the like, as well as with all objects, such as auto- 
mobiles, motor cars, engines, trains and objects b}'' 
the roadside. The importance of such training is 
emphasized with horses of this class, since, other 



Family Horses 91 

things being equal, such animals command the higher 
price on the market. So popular are such horses that 
most town, county and state fairs as well as horse 
shows provide special classes for their convenience. 

Pony for children. — Before attempting to edu- 
cate a pony for the children, we should be sure that 
the animal possesses an inherent docile and sweet 
temper. Train only such a pony as takes kindly 
to the children and seems to enjoy their company. 
The work of educating such a pony will be essentially 
the same as outlined above. He should be taught 
to obey as suggested for the ''family horse." For 
best results the children should be permitted to 
handle and feed him, as he will become attached to 
whomever feeds and grooms him. 

TRAIN THE HOESE TO WALK FAST 

There is no gait so valuable or so much appre- 
ciated and so practically useful in a horse as a fast 
square walk. This is as true of the work horse as of 
the driving or saddle horse. And yet this most prac- 
tical of all gaits is often entirely neglected in training 
the horse for his hfe-work. Perhaps this is due, in 
part at least, to the fact that we have no figures 
available as to the rate of speed the average work 
horse attains at the walk. Consider the case of a 
man plowing with a 16-inch plow and assuming that 
it cuts on the average its full capacity. To plow 



92 Training the Work Horse 

one acre the team must travel a little over six miles. 
Now if we assume that the team walks two miles an 
hour for a 10-hour day, or twenty miles in all, then 
the man will plow something over three acres a day. 
If the team walks three miles an hour for the same 
length of time, then he will plow almost five acres a 
day. ^Tiile it is not possible, perhaps, for one team 
to pull a 16-inch plow through all kinds of soil at 
the rate of three miles an hour for ten hours each 
day, yet this serves to illustrate the value of fast 
walking. Consider the case of a man harrowing with 
a 12-foot harrow and the team traveling first at the 
two-mile and then at the three-mile gait. As he 
must travel a little over two thirds of a mile in har- 
rowing one acre, in the former case he will harrow 
approximately twenty-nine acres a day, while in the 
latter case almost forty-four acres will be covered in 
the ten hours. Or consider the case of a man culti- 
vating corn with a single-rowed cultivator where the 
rows are three and one half feet apart and the team 
traveling at the same gaits as before. As the team 
must travel approximately two and one third miles 
to cultivate one acre, at the two-mile gait almost 
eight and one half acres will be cultivated, while at 
the three-mile gait almost thirteen acres will be cov- 
ered in the ten hours. Further, there is nothing, 
perhaps, that will cause a road horse to be driven 
harder and kept so continually at the trot as a de- 
ficiency in the walking gait. 



A Good Walking Gait 93 

It is not difficult to train the average horse to 
walk fast providing the proper methods are employed 
early in his training. From the very beginning keep 
the horse walking up to his limit. We should never 
allow him to mope along at this time, or the habit 
will become so strongly fixed that it will be difficult 
to overcome. During the entire training process, 
therefore, urge him to his limit. If he breaks into 
a trot, steady him but do not allow him to fall back 
into a slow walk. Do not ask him to walk too far 
at a time, but give him practice each day. When 
one has a fast walking horse available it is a very 
good plan to place the green horse beside the fast 
walker and work them together, as this aids in fixing 
the habit of fast walking. 

TKAINING THE HORSE FOR HEAVY DRAFT 

Because of the desire of all horse owners to have 
their driving horse in presentable condition, much 
time and patient effort are spent in his education, 
whereas the slow plodding draft horse that does much 
of his work in the fields and on back streets is neg- 
lected. Though his work is very hard, he is very 
often left in the hands of incompetent drivers, who 
either do not know how to lighten the animal's bur- 
den, or do not take sufficient interest. In the fields 
we often see plow-horses dragging along the plowman, 
who has the lines around his body, in addition to the 



94 Training the Work Horse 

plow, and since they must pull the former by their 
mouths, he is by far the more fatiguing. In like 
manner, on the streets, we often see the driver 
perched upon the heavily loaded van, holding the 
lines with extended arms and pulling on the horses' 
mouths with all his strength, while the already over- 
loaded animals tug away at the load. On the other 
hand, we often see careless drivers who permit the 
hues to hang, thus leaving the horses to stumble 
along as best they can while at their burdensome 
task. 

It is not possible for draft horses to accomplish 
their maximum usefulness while so driven. In the 
first case much energy is lost by the constant pulling 
of the driver, and in the second case the horses are 
not held together and hence lose energy pulling 
against each other. Never pull at a horse's mouth 
one ounce more than is necessary, as the energy is 
lost, and never drive him without a light touch of 
the lines so you can just feel the bit and hold him 
steady. In case the horse is a lugger — one whose 
mouth has been pulled on until it has become cal- 
loused — rehef can often be gained by dropping the 
bit into a new place or by changing to a large smooth 
rubber or leather covered bit, and some even go so 
far as to recommend the bitless bridle. The better 
plan is to put the horse into competent hands and 
then he will be trained properly from the beginning, 
and his usefulness increased. 



How to Train for Heavy Draft 95 

In training the draft horse, extra care must be 
exercised to see that he is in good health and entirely 
free from abrasions likely to give him annoyance. 
Thus if the animal has a slight sore on the shoulder, 
back or tail, the draft increases the pain and he as- 
sociates the effort to pull with the pain and refuses 
to go into the collar, and the foundation for a balker 
is laid. It is also important to see that the harness 
fits perfectly, and that the pressure is equally dis- 
tributed over the bearing surface (p. 317). Hitch 
the horse on the off side of an active even-puller, one 
that will go into the collar at the command and stay 
until the command ''whoa" is given. Choose a 
smooth, hard road, avoiding soft ground, and if con- 
venient let the first few loads be of bulky material, as 
hay or straw. This will serve to fix the idea in the 
horse's mind that he can pull anything that is loose. 

Never overload the draft horse in training. The 
first attempt should be made with a load not exceed- 
ing 300 pounds. After driving a short distance this 
may be doubled. Do not ask the young horse to 
pull more than his share of 1200 or 1500 pounds un- 
til the idea of going up against the pressure of the 
collar has become thoroughly fixed in his mind. 

Never train the young draft horse by hitching 
to a dragging load, as a plow, harrow, drag or wagon 
on soft earth. Such loads require constant pres- 
sure and serve to discourage the animal. In the 
case of the low hitch the pressure on the shoulders 



96 Training the Work Horse 

and back is at a disadvantage ; he cannot see the 
results of his efforts ; the constant pressure is likely 
to cause sore shoulders and in the case of the plow 
the horse may be severely jerked in case the plow 
strikes a stone or root, all of which serves to discour- 
age and to break his spirit rather than to encourage 
and inculcate the idea that he can draw anything. 

As the training continues, the driver should adopt 
signals to warn the horse of approaching difficulties, 
and when he should get ready for superb effort. 
Excellent drivers use different terms ; some whistle, 
some cluck and some give one command, others 
another, any of which will serve if properly used, 
but best usage prefers the command "steady" 
given in a rather deep tone. At this command the 
horses square themselves and make ready for the 
effort. The draft horse should be trained so as 
gradually to go into the collar and stay there until 
commanded to cease, as it is the long swinging pull 
that brings the load. There are many methods of 
teaching this. When at all convenient, a good way 
to train the horses to make long steady pulls is to 
hitch them to a freight car. It requires a constant 
pull to start the car and the movement is very slow 
at first but gradually comes faster and easier, which 
gives the horse much encouragement. This requires 
patient and cool-headed effort on the part of the 
driver, but horses thus educated are of great service 
to mankind. 



The Lead Horse 97 

TRAINING HORSES TO MAKE LEADERS 

The term ''leader" is used in two ways; first it 
signifies the near or ''lead" horse of a team, and 
second it is appUed to the front or leading team 
when two or more teams are driven tandem, one fol- 
lowing the other. The former is employed largely 
on the farm, the latter in the large cities. To be 
efficient in either position requires extra training. 
On the farm the driver's hands are often needed to 
operate the machinery and he is obliged, therefore, 
to rely on one line, which is attached to the near 
horse, and on commands, to drive his team. The off 
horse is attached to the near one by means of a tie- 
strap and crowding-stick in such a way that the 
one is obliged to keep even with the other. Since 
the driver must rely, in part at least, upon spoken 
words to convey his desires, the leader must be taught 
these extra signals and commands, such as "haw" 
and "gee." In the large cities the merchants find 
it more profitable to use heavy vans drawn by two 
or more teams and driven by one man. Since the 
leading team is so far forward that the driver cannot 
control it readily with the lines, he is also obliged to 
rely, in part, on signals and commands, the principal 
one, in addition to those above, being "yea." 

Teaching the commands "haw," "gee" and "yea." 
— When we wish the team to turn to the left, the 
command "haw" is given, or a steady pull is made 



98 Training the Work Horse 

on the lead line. When it is desired to turn to the 
right, the command "gee" is given, or a slight jerk 
is made on the line. These terms are best taught 
by providing a pair of lines and placing them on the 
lead horse and proceeding as suggested for teaching 
him to turn to the left and right (p. 65), giving the 
command "haw," followed by a steady pull on the 
near line as we turn to the left, and the command 
"gee," followed by a slight jerk on the off line as we 
turn to the right. Caress and repeat until the horse 
will turn either way at the command or at the mo- 
tion of the line. 

Because of the position of the lines on the leading 
team, when driving two or more teams the driver is 
unable often to square the horses on turning, par- 
ticularly when six or more horses are used, as the 
slack in the lines is so great that he cannot take 
it up fast enough; therefore, when the leading team 
has gone far enough and he wishes it to square itself 
and go forward, he gives the command "yea." This 
command should be taught to the leading team ac- 
cording to the suggestions outlined above for teach- 
ing "haw" and "gee," by employing long lines and 
a long whip. When the horse has turned sufficiently, 
he is squared about with the long whip, immediately 
followed by the command "yea." These multiple 
teams are guided to the left and right b}^ the com- 
mands, by the movement of the lines, or other 
signals, each driver having a code of his own. 



The Words to use in Training 99 

CHOOSING A VOCABULARY FOR THE WORK HORSE 

The work horse should be taught few words and 
each should stand for a definite action. It would 
be of advantage if a standard vocabulary could be 
adopted and used all over the land, especially where 
horses pass from one owner or driver to another. 
As it is now with each driver using commands and 
signals of his own, the horse is greatly confused when- 
ever there is a change of drivers. In fact, if all 
drivers would agree to use a few of the more common 
commands for the same actions, the situation would 
be greatly relieved. Thus far we have suggested 
six words for general use; they are short, easily taught, 
and answer most conditions, at least for the work 
horse. Any teachable horse can be taught to obey 
all six commands in as many days if a little patient 
effort is put into the training. 

The six words that have been recommended for 
general use, and the actions they stand for, are as 
follows : — 

''Whoa" means to stop and stand still. This is 
the most important word of the group and should 
never be spoken except when the above action is 
desired, and the horse should understand that he 
is to remain quiet until commanded to move. Do 
not use the word to slacken the animal's speed, 
or to calm him, or when you wish him to move 
backward. 



100 Training the Work Horse 

''Get up" means to move forward. The tone 
should be modified for prompt or dehberate action. 
This term should be used for increasing the speed. 
There is no use of employing the words ''hurry" 
and "faster" for the draft horse. There is no ob- 
jection to the "cluck" or "chirrup," but if they are 
to be used, the horse should be trained to obey them 
promptly. 

"Back" means to move backward. Because of 
the great amount of backing that must be done, this 
is likewise an important word and the horse should 
be taught its significance. Do not use this word to 
slacken or stop the animal. Do not use "whoa- 
back" or "back-up," — simply "back." The com- 
mand may be followed by a see-saw motion of the 
lines, but in no case jerk or yank on the animal's 
mouth. 

"Steady" means to give attention to the work in 
hand. It applies to a variety of conditions; thus, 
when the horse is going fast and we wish him to slow 
down, this term is used ; or when the animal becomes 
frightened and we wish him to calm ; or when we 
wish to warn him of approaching danger or difficulty 
we employ this command, but the voice should be 
modified to meet the attendant condition (p. 80). 

"Haw" means to turn to the left, and is preferred 
to the command "left." 

"Gee" means to turn to the right, and is preferred 
to the command "right." 



How to Handle the Feet 



101 



GENTLING THE FEET FOR SHOEING 

To avoid bad habits at shoeing, the horse's feet 
should be handled before going to the shop. A few 




Fig. 22. — First position in pirkuig up a front foot. 

horse owners impose upon the blacksmith by sending 
their horse to the shop to have him shod in order to 
assist them in training. The blacksmith cannot 



102 



Training the Work Horse 



take the time properly to train the horse. The sur- 
roundings, the noise and the flying sparks are new 
to the horse and he becomes excited. Under such 




Fig. 23. — Second position iu picking up ;i front foot. 

conditions, when the blacksmith picks up the foot 
for the first time, the horse struggles, but since he 
was sent there to be shod the blacksmith retains his 
hold and after much excitement succeeds in shoeing 



Gentling the Feet 



103 



him, but not until the animal has acquired a general 
dislike to having his feet handled, and a particular 
hatred of blacksmith shops. This excitement and 
distrust can be avoided by a little patient effort in 




I'lu. 'li. - I'ir.st ijoriitioii in picking up a rear foot. 

educating the horse to stand while his feet are being 
handled. 

The best way to pick up the foot is to run your 
left hand down over the shoulder, the fore arm, 
grasping, say, the near foreleg just above the knee, 
and to the rear (Fig. 22), and pinching the flexor mus- 
cle, which stimulates the horse to pick up the foot. 



104 



Training the Work Horse 



At the same time press the point of the shoulder 
with your left elbow, thus throwing the weight from 
the near to the off leg, and reach down and pick up 




Fiu. 25. — Second pu.-itiuu in piikiug up a rear fuot. 

the horse's foot with the right hand. Hold the foot 
in the right hand (Fig. 23) for a moment, and then 
put it down carefully. Never drop the foot, but put 
it down. Pick it up again as before by the toe and 



Handling the Hind Feet 



105 



hold with the right hand. With the left hand reach 
over, rub the quarter and pinch the flexor muscle 
just above the hock (Fig. 24). Gently lower the 




Fi(i. 20. — Third ijositiuu in picking up a rear foot. 

front foot with the right hand and reach down and 
pick up the hind foot (Fig. 25). Hold for a moment 
(Fig. 26) then gently place on the ground. Repeat 
the same process on the off side. Work onl}^ as 



106 Training the Work Horse 

fast as the horse understands. If he becomes ex- 
cited and resists, do not attempt to hold him, but let 
him have his foot and begin all over again. 

In handling the feet never allow the horse to bear 
his weight on you, as he is big and strong enough to 
hold himself, and will do so when he understands what 
is expected of him. After handling the feet once 
it is a good plan to take the hammer and gently tap 
the hoofs as in shoeing. This gentling requires per- 
haps fifteen minutes, and after going through the 
course the horse will never be any trouble to shoe 
(p. 300). 

TRAINING TO MOUNT 

Since the work horse is seldom worked under the 
saddle, and not much time or effort is spent in train- 
ing him to mount, a short and quick method is given 
here, though the matter is taken up at some length, 
and modern methods are given, in the chapter on 
training the saddle horse (p. 155). In training a 
horse to mount be very careful that he does not suc- 
ceed in dislodging you, for if once he succeeds in get- 
ting you off his back, it will take some time to con- 
vince him that he cannot do it again. The best 
time to take the horse is after he has been exercised 
vigorously and while tired. The best place is on 
soft ground, where the horse can hurt neither him- 
self nor the rider. Put on the saddle as suggested 
in harnessing (p. 72), and make sure that it is fastened 



Mounting 107 

securely. Have an assistant hold the horse's head 
while you mount. To steady the animal, some recom- 
mend the use of the noose- or rope- twitch (p. 197). 
The horse may rear, bound forward, buck or lie down. 
In any event, the rider must stay on, remembering 
that the horse is already tired and on soft ground. 
It is often an endurance trial, and this is the reason 
why one must have the horse tired to begin with, for 
otherwise he may be able to bound and buck till 
the rider is so exhausted that he can no longer main- 
tain his position on the saddle. When the horse 
calms, caress him and repeat until he stands quietly 
while you mount. 



CHAPTER IV 

TRAINING THE TROTTER, COACHER AND 
ROADSTER 

Training horses for speed, high action and style 
requires much patient effort, unlimited tact and na- 
tive ability. No set of rules can be laid down that 
will apply in every case. No two horses are of the 
same disposition or temperament, and the successful 
training of each is a law unto itself. While study 
and the experience of others may serve to increase 
one's skill, he will never be relieved of the necessity 
of using his own resources. The method is still 
further complicated by the fact that while there are 
many horses that have a tendency to show speed, 
action and style, and which can undoubtedly have 
the same very much improved by the adoption of a 
proper system of training, there are a great many 
others without this inclination and which it is hopeless 
to try to develop to a degree that makes it worth while 
spending time and effort on them. Since the method 
employed must be modified to meet the needs of the 
animal 'and the convenience of the trainer, only a 
general plan is given, which applies especially to the 
trotter, but which is to be modified as circumstance 

108 



When to Begin Training 109 

demands. The plan is followed by a discussion of 
factors important in training, horses of all classes. 



AGE TO BEGIN TEAINING 

There is much difference of opinion among horse- 
men as to the proper age to begin training the colt 
in order to develop maximum speed, style and ac- 
tion. Some say to begin before the colt is born, 
which, of course, would lead to a discussion of breed- 
ing, while others say that the youngster should be 
well developed before his training begins, particu- 
larly when high action is desired, as in the coach 
horse. There is a general feeling, however, espe- 
cially in the case of the trotting horse, that the train- 
ing cannot begin too soon, especially if the animal 
is to be raced while young. Some excellent horse- 
men are strong in their belief that the prejudice 
against early training in the past has hindered the 
progress in breeding horses for speed. The fact 
that early breeders were obliged to wait many years 
for returns from the capital invested, no doubt di- 
verted attention from breeding trotters. Horse 
breeders desire quick returns, hence they breed ani- 
mals that trot young. There can be no doubt that 
the younger a trotter makes a good record and a 
coacher shows his style and action, the quicker the 
breeder can turn his investment into cash and if 
they go wrong at two years old, they are a cheaper 



110 Training the Trotter, Coacher and Roadster 

failure than if they go wrong at five or six years of 
age. 

The effect of breeding for early maturity and early 
training upon the future usefulness of the horse is a 
much discussed question. Formerly many breeders 
were of the opinion that such practice had a tendency 
to weaken the horse, while others were equally as 
certain that both early maturity and early training 
better fitted the animal to perform his life-work. 
Volumes have been written upon this particular 
question. As a rule at the present time, practical 
men favor early maturity, though they agree that 
early training calls for much more tact and judgment 
than the training of a mature animal. They are 
strong in the conviction that the colt can be trained 
for speed from his infancy and that such training, if 
judiciously given, will prove a great and lasting bene- 
fit and make him a better aged horse. 



METHOD OF TRAINING WHILE YOUNG 

The youngster should be trained much as sug- 
gested in the discussion on training the foal (p. 26). 
With the lighter and more active types of horses it 
is very important that they be handled and taught 
to lead with halter and drive with lines as suggested. 
It is essential that the colt's entire confidence be se- 
cured and maintained, otherwise the trainer must 
work at a disadvantage. To be successful, a mutual 



Small Training Track 111 

understanding must exist between the animal and 
his master. 

The training yard. — Since the youngsters are to 
be put into training very early in life, ample provision 
should be made for their accommodation. A, small 
training track is almost indispensable for the young 
trotters, and a yard or track for the coachers. The 
small track should be laid off oblong similar to a 
race track, with proportionate turns and stretches. 
The length over all should not be less than 140 feet 
and the width not less than 65 feet. The track it- 
self should be 10 to 12 feet wide and if convenient 
should be covered so as to be of service the year 
around. It should be made of earth good for the 
feet and should be kept deep and soft. At the turns, 
the earth should be thrown up two or three inches to 
the foot, to facilitate turning. 

The construction of the inside fence requires 
special consideration. The posts should be few in 
number so as not to obstruct the view of the colt's 
legs when in action. They should be inclined toward 
the track in such a manner that the inner rail will 
prevent the colt from injuring his legs by striking 
the fence. As a further precaution the posts and 
railing should be slightly rounded by removing the 
sharp edges. This inner rail, which should be about 
six inches wide and of good material, should be placed 
about as high as the yearling's body. There is no 
need of a wheel board as the little track is not in- 



112 Training the Trotter, Coacher and Roadster 

tended for vehicles, but simply for the exercise of the 
youngster before hitching. 

Plan for training the young colt. — Very early in 
the colt's life one should decide upon a method of 
procedure. This should include the daily routine 
work as well as a consideration of the time it is 
desired to race him, since this will modify the method, 
as racing at two years old calls for a different plan 
of preparation than if not raced until later in life. 
Thus the daily feeding, watering, grooming and exer- 
cising should be so arranged as to meet the conditions. 
The importance of an orderly procedure in all that 
pertains to the care and management of the colt in 
training for speed or high action cannot be over- 
estimated. He must be so skillfully handled as to 
bring out the best there is in him. 

The colt should be fed regularly and up to the 
limit of his appetite from the beginning, in order to 
keep him strong. It is not possible to get the colt, 
under fifteen months of age, too fat if properly 
groomed and exercised. He should be provided 
with fresh water at all times, in order that he may 
not drink to excess (p. 355). 

Grooming the colt requires special attention. 
The colt should be thoroughly cleaned each morning, 
giving extra care to the legs and feet. The hoofs 
should be cleaned twice dail}" by removing all for- 
eign materials that have collected in the clefts and 
about the frog. They should be kept level and so 



Training while Young 113 

trimmed as to preserve the natural attitude of the 
colt's legs, otherwise he is likely to develop unsound 
legs. This trimming should be done with a rasp 
(p. 357). 

In order to develop strength and endurance, it is 
important that the colt be exercised regularly. This 
will increase his heart and lung capacity and harden 
his muscles so that he will be able to endure the 
hardships of later life. In exercising the colt to 
develop speed and action, extra attention must be 
given to the protection of the legs. At any time 
the youngster -may become excited and strike him- 
self, often inflicting serious injury. To avoid this 
the colt's legs should be well protected by shin- and 
quarter-boots, properly fitted so that they will not 
chafe the legs (p. 375). Such boots can be obtained 
at the harness shop (Fig. 27). 

Exercising on small Irack. — When all is in readi- 
ness, lead the colt around the track a few times un- 
til he becomes familiar with it, then unsnap the 
lead-strap and follow him around several times. 
Do not hurry, but give him time to become recon- 
ciled to his new surroundings. On the other hand 
if he wants to run, let him do so at first, or until he 
has had his frolic; then endeavor to keep him at a 
trot as much as possible. The colt should now be 
taught to use the miniature track. This can best 
be accomplished by two men, provided with whips 
to which are attached long lashes. One man should 



114 Training the Trotter, Coacher and Roadster 



stand near either end inside the inclosure and by 
holding up the whip teach the colt to go around the 




Fig. 27. — Boots for protecting the feet and legs of the horse. 1, Quarter- 
boot ; S, hind leg scalping-boot ; S, shin-and-ankle-boot ; 4< knee-boot ; 
S, front leg ankle-boot ; 6, hock-and-hind-lcg-boot ; 7, knee-and-arm- 
boot. 



Training on the Small Track 115 

turns rather slowly, and by cracking the whip urge 
him through the stretches. Aiter the colt under- 
stands what is wanted do not allow him to run ; if 
he should break go toward the rail and hold the whip 
out before him, and if he refuses to slow down to a 
trot slash it across the track in front of him, exer- 
cising due care never to strike him about the head. 
By using a little tact the colt will soon understand 
what is expected of him and you will be surprised 
to see how he will take the turns slowly but go 
through the stretches up to his limit. 

After a few rounds, with two or three sharp brushes 
through the stretches, let him stop to rest if he wishes. 
This affords a good opportunity to caress him in order 
to assure him that he is doing as we wish. After 
a moment start the colt around the other way. Do 
not permit him to make the turns always in one 
direction, as this has a tendency to make his action 
irregular. Care must be exercised in starting the 
colt or in urging him, to prevent scaring him. Teach 
him to respond to the crack of the whip and do not 
''shoo" him or make any unnecessary noise to get 
him to show his action. 

Do not tire the colt. — About fifteen ininutes is 
sufficient time to keep the youngster on the track. 
The object sought is to create in the colt's mind a 
love for the exercise, rather than a dread or a dis- 
dain for the track. This can be done by permitting 
the colt some freedom and by caressing him often 



116 Training the Trotter, Coacher and Roadster 

to assure him he is doing well. At this age his mind 
is receptive, the trotting habit is easily fixed and at 
the same time he acquires speed and steadiness of 
action. To overwork the colt at this age not only 
stops the progress of his education, but he really 
goes back in that he loses directness of action so 
essential to horses of speed and high action. 

While the colt should not be exercised too long at 
a time, he may be worked safely two times a day if 
convenient. In the beginning it is a much better 
plan to give him two fifteen minute periods, one in 
the morning and the othfer in the afternoon, than to 
work him for one half-hour period. As the colt ac- 
quires strength and endurance the length of the exer- 
cise period may be increased gradually, but always 
keep on the safe side and underwork rather than over- 
work the youngster. 

It is a good plan to let the colt rest two or three 
days each month and if convenient to turn him to 
pasture where he can have perfect freedom. This 
serves to break the monotony of the daily exercise 
and freshens him. After a few days of such freedom 
he will take his exercise more keenly and with greater 
vim. The few days of idleness seem to stimulate 
a desire for the daily exercise so that the colt will 
gain faster than if he be worked continuously. 

During these early exercising periods the colt 
should be studied critically. Note carefully the 
carriage of the head, as this will be of advantage in 



Advantages of Training while Young 117 

adjusting the check-rein when put in harness. Ob- 
serve his natural action and balance that you may 
know how to treat him in the future. The gait must 
receive much careful attention and any hitching or 
roughness in the action be immediately remedied. In 
order to develop maximum speed and action, this 
early training calls for coolness, watchfulness and 
tact. A study of the peculiarities of the individual 
colt is a very important part of the trainer's work. 
If the colt is thrifty and strong, he may be worked 
in some such manner until about fifteen months of 
age, when he should be trained to harness. While 
such work requires time and calls for patient effort 
and native ability, if properly conducted it will bring 
out many peculiarities of the colt. In the first place 
it will indicate his possibihties, and one can form a 
fair idea of the kind of a horse he is going to make ; 
or at least, if there is nothing in him he will have 
demonstrated the fact long before he is fifteen months 
of age. In the second place, it will bring out his 
" natural carriage and action. Up to this age he must 
rely upon himself, and such action as he possesses he 
has acquired without assistance, and if studied care- 
fully one can form an idea of how properly to balance 
him. Furthermore, early training develops a good 
disposition. The colt grows up under control and 
never knows absolute freedom. Before he is strong 
enough to make stubborn resistance, he is taught 
that there is nothing to resist and hence he never 



118 Training the Trotter, Coacher and Roadster 

feels subjection. This serves to keep him in good 
spirit and he develops an even temper. On the other 
hand, if the colt is given his freedom until quite 
mature, he resents control and often becomes so 
headstrong that he may be physically and mentally 
ruined in training. 

EARLY TRAINING IN HARNESS 

The colt may be taught the uses of the bit and 
made familiar with the pressure of the harness as 
suggested for training the work horse (pp. 56 to 84). 
It is important to have him thoroughly obedient to 
the lines and perfectly accustomed to the harness 
before hitching. 

In order to improve the action and to increase the 
steadiness of the gait many excellent horsemen recom- 
mend hitching double the first few times. They 
think that the training-cart with its long shafts and 
constant jarring motion interferes with the action, 
and throws the colt out of balance. On the other 
hand, many trainers use nothing but the cart and 
experience no more difficulty in balancing than those 
who use the double rig. 

In case the colt is worked double, procure a vehicle 
of light construction and hitch by the side of a gen- 
tle, reliable and well-balanced horse. The first few 
lessons in harness must be short. Drive the team 
through the stretches of the track, or over a soft 



First Training in Harness 119 

earth road, at an easy, steady gait for about fifteen 
minutes, then take the youngster out of the harness. 
Continue these lessons twice daily, morning and after- 
noon, for some time, gradually increasing the work, 
and hitching the colt alternately each time on either 
side of the staid mate. This part of the training is 
not to increase the speed, but to educate the colt to 
harness and at the same time to improve his action. 

The colt is now ready for work in single harness. 
For the first few lessons in single harness, many pre- 
fer to use the skeleton wagon, as it interferes less 
with the action. After a short drive by the side of 
the staid mate, quietly take the colt out of the double 
rig and hitch to the single vehicle. Drive at an easy 
and steady gait for about fifteen minutes. Con- 
tinue this work until the colt is thoroughly familiar 
with the vehicle and can be depended on to obey 
the voice and lines. Now he may be hitched to the 
cart or sulky with little or no risk. 

The amount and kind of training will depend on 
the object sought. If the colt is to trot as a yearling, 
he will require work twice daily. This work should 
be short but sharp and speed-making. Colts and 
yearlings require little or no jogging. Drive the 
youngster a good fast gait for about 200 yards. 
Turn him slowly, giving ample time to catch his 
breath and let him go back a little faster. After 
going about the same distance, slow down, turn 
slowly as before and drive him up the stretch again, 



120 Training the Trotter, Coacher and Roadster 

this time gradually increasing the speed until he is 
going his hmit at the end of the 200 yard brush. 
After this sharp brush give him a httle longer to 
breathe than before. Now let him out and drive 
back, carrying him to his limit again. This will be 
sufficient work for the morning exercise. Take the 
youngster to the stable, remove the harness and 
boots, give him a very httle water to drink, rub him 
off lightly and then walk him a few minutes. This 
part of the work should be done in a stable, shed or 
protected area free from cold drafts. After walking, 
place him in a well-ventilated box-stall and leave 
him undisturbed so that he may lie down and rest. 

Since young animals recover from the effect of 
work more rapidly than older ones, the former may 
be exercised twice daily with little or no risk until 
two years of age, providing, of course, good judgment 
is used and the work never overdone. In the after- 
noon put the colt through the same course as sug- 
gested for the morning, which will provide sufficient 
exercise for the day. In this early training much 
care must be exercised not to overwork the colt. 
The first sign of track-weariness should be followed 
by a few days' rest. 

Continue the work daily as outlined, with little 
or no increase for the first two weeks, after which the 
number of brushes and the speed may be increased 
gradually. With young colts it is thought best not 
to increase the length of the brushes, as they will 



Study the Horse 121 

prove too fatiguing. It is a good plan to continue 
the practice of giving the colt two or three days' rest 
each month (p. 116). 

Young animals do not need to be blanketed, 
sweated, scraped or physicked. They do not take on 
fat internally like mature ones and do not need to 
be reduced. Such practice has a tendency to stop 
growth and muscular development, whereas the 
youngsters require conditions favorable to physical 
development in order that they may increase in 
strength and endurance. 

Study individual peculiarities. — The one fixed 
rule, that applies in training all horses, is to study 
each individual critically. It is this one character- 
istic more than any other that makes successful 
horse trainers. At this time the colt is begin- 
ning his track work and it is of the utmost impor- 
tance that he be directed properly. The bitting, 
checking, harnessing and shoeing are all important 
factors in balancing and gaiting. If the youngster 
is not traveling perfectly square, if there is any rough- 
ness in his gait, or if he is in any way out of ^balance, 
he is not developing that smooth, steady and direct 
action so essential in the attainment of maximum 
speed or stylish action. Study the individual and 
adopt such methods as will keep him going true, 
smooth and level. Never drive him faster than he 
can go squarely, and he will develop gpeed and action 
if it is in him. 



122 Training the Trotter, Coacher and Roadster 



The shoeing of each colt requires special attention. 
While much has been written on shoeing and weight- 
ing to improve action, experienced horsemen state 
that each colt is an experiment and that no rule can 
be made that will apply to all. To be successful, 
therefore, one must make a careful study of the 

needs of each individual. If 
toe-weights improve the ac- 
tion, apply them; if not, dis- 
regard their use (Fig. 28). 
It is often necessary to shoe 
behind very early in order to 
boot properly. In such cases 
a very light shoe or plate 
should be used. Much care 
must be exercised in fitting 
the shoe, for should the colt 
strike or interfere, he will not 
extend himself, thus limiting or interfering with his 
action (p. 139). 

Another individual peculiarity is the amount of 
work the colt can stand. Some can endure twice the 
work of others, so that it requires constant vigilance 
not to overwork. When the colt is going nicely the 
tendency is to drive him another brush, which is 
continued until he is fatigued. This should not be 
done. Never continue the exercise beyond the 
point where the colt can improve with the next step. 
The tired colt loses control of his legs and feet ; his 




Fig. 28. 



— One type of toe- 
weight. 



Training the Mature Colt 123 

action is irregular; he falters in his gait, hitching 
and hobbling along; he may even strike and injure 
himself or he may break and run. No progress can 
be made in training a tired horse, and in fact, he loses 
precision in action. 

If the training is conducted properly, the first 
year in harness will have a marked effect upon the 
colt. The lungs will develop with the muscles, and 
the legs will attain a hard, clean substance capable 
of enduring great strain. His speed and action will 
improve with his physical development and he will 
move with clock-like precision. On the other hand, 
if the training is not properly conducted, if each 
individual is not critically studied and his needs 
supplied, the consequence will be as far-reaching, 
though with disastrous results. 

TRAINING THE TWO- AND THREE-YEAR-OLD 

. As the colt increases in age and strength the work 
may be increased gradually, the exact amount de- 
pending on the endurance of the individual. To 
improve the speed, many trainers continue the short 
brushes, though the distance driven is gradually 
increased, starting at about 200 yards with the young- 
ster, working up to three-eighths-mile brushes with 
the two-year-old, and one half mile brushes with 
the three-year-old horse. The number of brushes 
given at each exercise likewise depends on the indi- 



124 Training the Trotter, Coacher and Roadster 

vidual. By careful observation one can soon learn 
to judge when a horse has sufficient work. 

The number of lessons given daily will depend on 
the amount and severity of the work. If the exercise 
is rather light and not too fatiguing, two short les- 
sons are preferred, whereas if the work is fast and 
severe one is recommended. The often-repeated 
sharp brushes are the speed-makers and should be 
employed when convenient. When this system is 
used, it is important that the brushes be driven at 
various places along the track. If the work is con- 
tinued too long in one place, the colt acquires the 
habit of slowing down and turning at this particular 
place. Another annoying habit youngsters often 
acquire is that of turning out every time they pass 
the gate leading to the stables. To overcome this, 
avoid slowing down or turning near the gate and 
brush past it, then turn and walk back. 

As the time approaches for the horse to enter the 
race, his endurance must be improved. Thus far it 
has been a matter of developing speed, without which 
no horse can win. While the brush system — going 
a short distance at a fast rate rather than a long dis- 
tance at a slow rate — develops the muscles and 
lungs and improves the speed, it does not prepare 
the horse to withstand the numerous heats of a long- 
drawn race. To illustrate one method of increasing 
the endurance a daily program is given. 



Training for One Day 125 

DAILY PEOGRAM FOR A HORSE IN TRAINING 

Give the horse a drink the first thing in the morn- 
ing, or if preferred keep a bucket of water in his box 
over night. For the morning ration, feed one fourth 
of the daily allowance. It should be in condition 
to be easily and rapidly consumed. Nothing is 
better than clean, sound oats and sweet, well-cured 
timothy hay harvested rather early. Never feed 
new oats or new hay. After breakfast thoroughly 
groom the horse, giving special attention to the legs 
and soles of the feet. If convenient, walk him in 
the dew. Now hitch him to the sulky and give him 
an early jog of a few miles. Take him to the stable, 
rem.ove the harness and boots and bandage his legs. 
Walk him a few minutes, remove the bandages and 
hand-rub the legs. Give him a drink of fresh water 
and place him in the box-stall with his head loose and 
leave the animal undisturbed. 

In two or three hours, some trainers give the horse 
his real work for the day, while others prefer to work 
out in the afternoons. The amount and kind will 
depend on the individual. At this time give him 
three or four rather sharp brushes, carrying him well 
up to his limit at the close of the last one. Take him 
to the stable, remove the harness, blanket him, and 
remove the boots. Next scrape him off lightly, 
exercising much care not to let him get cold or to 
keep him so warm as to require a second scraping. 



126 Training the Trotter^ Coacher and Roadster 

After scraping, quickly rub the loins and muscles 
of the shoulders with a lotion of arnica, rum and 
water. Rub the legs, especially the joints and ten- 
dons, with the following application : sugar of lead 
2 ounces, laudanum 2 ounces, and water 1 quart. 
After this they should be carefully bandaged. If 
the horse shows distress, some prefer a body-wash 
made of warm water and Medford rum, to which a 
little salt has been added. This lotion is applied 
over the muscles of the shoulders and loins. Blan- 
ket at once, place a light hood over the head and 
walk slowly for fifteen minutes to half an hour, per- 
mitting the animal to stop occasionally if he likes. 
When dry or nearly so take him to his stall and rub 
him out. 

Bandaging the legs properly calls for some skill. 
The function of the bandage is to support the ankle 
and tendons until they have rested after the strain of 
hard work. Many persons leave the heels and under 
part of the ankles exposed, whereas the lower part of 
the ankle needs the support furnished by the bandage 
equally as much as the upper part of the leg. The 
bandage, therefore, should be set fairly tight and 
wrapped well down around and under the fetlock. 
It should be left on one or two hours. 

Now that the animal is dry and thoroughl}^ cleaned, 
he is ready for the noon meal. First give him a 
drink of fresh, cool water and then feed him another 
quarter of his daily allowance. He should now be left 



Evening Care 127 

quiet until time for the afternoon walk, at which 
time he should be watered again. Some time during 
the afternoon give him a good walk, and if convenient, 
allow him to eat a little green grass. 

In the evening, offer him another drink and feed 
the remainder of the day's ration. Thus the heavy 
feeding comes at night when there is sufficient time 
to consume the ration and no exercise to follow im- 
mediately after feeding. In about two hours after 
giving the evening ration, water again and arrange 
the bedding for the night. Before leaving for the 
night, however, the feet and legs should receive 
extra attention. The feet should be cleaned care- 
fully and washed out. If dry, they should be packed 
with clay mud. Avoid the use of such material as 
cow-dung, as it often causes such diseases as thrush, 
canker and the like ; also avoid using oil, as it has a 
tendency to make the hoof brittle. The legs should 
be hand-rubbed, and if slightly inflamed, witch- 
.hazel or the sugar-of-lead-laudanum lotion should be 
applied. 

TRAINING FOR THE RACE 

In preparing a horse for the race, first make a 
thorough physical examination, as good health is 
essential, and without it no horse can win, even 
though his breeding be of the best and his training 
perfect. If the physical condition is satisfactory, 
begin the preparation by working from three to five 



128 Training the Trotter, Coacher and Roadster 

miles daily at a very moderate gait. Gradually 
increase the number of miles to suit the individual. 
After a time, if the horse conditions nicely, let him 
go twice each week, Tuesday and Friday, and finish 
the exercise by carrying him well up to his limit for 
a quarter mile. Continue this until fair weather in 
the spring, and then begin giving slow repeats. 

During this part of the training, it is a good plan 
to score (driving under the wire) the horse a few 
times each day. By a little patient effort he can be 
trained so that there will be no difficulty in getting 
off properly at any time it is desired to start him. 

About the first of May it will be necessary to begin 
working the horse in mile heats at regular intervals 
of twenty to twenty-five minutes. This should be 
done twice each week, say Tuesday and Friday. 
While the number of heats to be given will depend 
on the endurance of the individual, it is recommended 
that he be worked in at least five. At first some of 
these heats should be finished by carrying him well 
up to his limit for a quarter or half mile. 

As a rule, successful horsemen do not like much 
fast work after the horse is ready. They usualh^ 
work him three to eight seconds from where he 
is to start, and continue the brush work, often 
finishing at the top of the horse's speed, but ex- 
ercising much care never to push him off his feet. 
This calls for judgment of the gait on behalf of the 
trainer, but the successful driver will have studied 



Exercise before the Race . 129 

« 

his horse so critically that by this time he knows 
just what to depend on. 

Preparing for the race. — The evening before and 
the morning of the race, feed the horse his usual ra- 
tion. After breakfast give him his morning jog of 
three or four miles and care for him much as sug- 
gested in the daily program (p. 125). Be sure to 
give a light feed after the jog, exercising care that he 
does not gorge. In the case of horses that eat their 
bedding, it may be necessary to provide a muz- 
zle. About eleven o'clock give a fresh drink 
and feed the usual noon ration. In two hours, or 
shortly before the time for calling the race, hitch 
him to the sulky and jog two or three miles. Now 
let him out, carrying him well within himself for one 
mile, but at some point driving him to the limit to 
see that he has his speed. Take him to the stable, 
and by the time he has been cooled out as suggested 
in the daily program, the hour for the race will have 
arrived. 

DRIVING 

Now that we have followed the education of the 
trotter from the time he was foaled to the sound of 
the bell calling him to the race, we will consider fac- 
tors of more general application, such as driving ; 
improving the action by bitting, shoeing and condi- 
tioning ; injurious results of defective action, as inter- 
fering, forging, overreaching, hitching and like topics. 

K 



130 Training the Trotter, Coacher and Roadster 

Attention has already been directed to the neces- 
sity of preserving the sensitiveness of the colt's 
mouth, when educating him, by the use of a bit 
covered with leather (p. 57) and of the desirabihty 
of educating the draft horse to a light rein (p. 93). 
Such training is commonly known as ''mouthing," 
and is of much importance. The manner in which 
the lines are held in driving is commonly known 
as "hands," and designated ''good hands" or "bad 
hands" as the case may be. 

Good hands signifies the delicacy of touch that 
never pulls at a horse's mouth more than is neces- 
sary, and never, on any account, when it is not 
necessary. To acquire this, calls for natural adap- 
tation and skill. A light but firm, an elastic but 
steady hold on the line is what is desired. Good 
hands are rather indefinable, and methods of acquir- 
ing them cannot be imparted by written or spoken 
words. The importance of good hands and the 
necessity of preserving the natural sensitiveness of 
the horse's mouth become apparent when we con- 
sider that our every wish or command is communi- 
cated to the horse along the lines to a bit in his 
mouth, and especially when we take into account 
the fact that man's strength is insignificant when 
compared to that of a horse. 

On the other hand, bad hands signify all other 
methods of holding the lines. As a rule, we drive with 
too tight a line. PuHing hands make lugging horses. 



Effects of Careless Driving 131 

When the driver pulls on the mouth it hurts. The 
horse finds, however, if he gives in and slows down, 
that he is touched with the whip to make him ''drive 
up to the bit." He soon learns, also, that the harder 
he makes the driver pull at his mouth the less pain- 
ful it becomes. This is due to the pressure shutting 
off the circulation, which numbs or deadens the 
mouth to the pain. The other extreme, that is, 
permitting the hues to hang, is equally as bad. The 
horse, being left to stumble along as best he can, 
becomes careless in his action. Many drivers have 
the habit of nagging or jerking at the hues when 
they wish the horse to increase his speed. This 
likewise destroys the natural sensitiveness. 

Bad hands resulting in bad mouths are responsible 
for much of the undesirable action in driving horses. 
When we recall the extreme tenderness of the mouth, 
the cruel manner in which it is handled, the irrita- 
tion thus produced from the resulting sores, we can 
understand why a horse may lag behind until the 
parts become numbed, then begin to pull, holding 
the head to one side, going with the mouth open, 
lolling the tongue, slobbering, tossing the head and 
crossing the jaws ; how he loses control of his legs, 
so to speak, and " hitches," hobbles, forges, over- 
reaches, interferes, and in many other ways shows 
evidence of the discomfort he is suffering. 

To hold the lines when driving, take them in the 
left hand, the left line coming into the hand over 



132 Training the Trotter, Coacher and Roadster 

the forefinger and the right one between the middle 
and ring finger. The manipulation of the lines and 
the guiding should be done with the right hand, 
which also carries the whip. The arms of the driver 
from shoulder to elbow should hang naturally, with 
forearms held at right angles and the hands meet- 
ing in front of the body in a perfectly natural posi- 
tion, with thumbs uppermost. This position of the 
hands and lines gives the best possible control of 
the hnes and at the same time enables him to keep 
a light touch on the horse's mouth. With the 
horse properly mouthed and the natural sensitiveness 
preserved, the slightest touch on either line will 
be pressure sufficient to guide the horse. 

IMPROVING THE ACTION 

In the training of the coach horse, action is para- 
mount. It is prized because the proper kind is so 
difficult to secure. Training horses of this class 
is complicated by many factors, chief of which are 
the conformation and the natural adaptation of the 
horse. Some horses are so defective in form as to 
prevent high action. There are others, however, 
seemingly of the correct conformation to produce 
excellent action but lacking the nervous adaptation ; 
and still others somewhat lacking in conformation 
but possessing the proper nervous development to 
make them excellent performers in their class. In 



Conformation and Action 133 

the conformation of the pasterns, for example, 
length and obhquity usually favor hghtness and 
elasticity of the tread, yet this is not always the 
case, as we find many heavy-going horses of this 
conformation ; in the case of a horse with short 
pasterns and straight shoulders, which as a rule 
produce heavy movements, this is not always 
true, as we not infrequently find straight-shouldered, 
short-pasterned horses that step lightly. These 
exceptions are undoubtedly referable to the nervous 
system. In the former case the horse is of a lym- 
phatic temperament, lacking zest in his labors for 
the want of tone in his nervous system, while in the 
latter case he is of a nervous disposition and is a 
willing and enduring worker in his range. 

With few exceptions, however, the action is refer- 
able to the conformation, and defects in the legs 
show themselves with almost unvarying regularity 
in their effect upon the action. Thus the horse that 
stands with his front feet placed wide apart has a 
tendency to straddle ; the knock-kneed one gener- 
ally dishes ; the one that toes-in winds out, while 
the one that toes-out winds in. The horse with 
his hocks wide apart and his feet close together 
winds his hocks outward ; the sickle-hocked one 
winds his feet outward; while the horse with his 
hocks placed too far behind has a peculiar dragging 
movement of the hind legs. Not only the confor- 
mation of the legs but that of the body also indi- 



134 Training the Trotter, Coacher and Roadster 

cates the action and the ease with which the horse 
can be balanced. Thus the horse with thick withers 
and wide chest is hkely to roll his feet outward in 
traveling. In the case of a horse with a short neck 
and heavy head, much difficulty is experienced in 
bringing out his action because of the poor relation 
between the head and neck. In this case the action 
will be short and stilted. The first requirement, 
therefore, for straight, undeviating action is that 
the horse be of proper conformation (Fig. 29) . 

The action of any horse can be improved by 
adopting the proper system of training, although 
but little progress can be made without good con- 
formation and a tendency to show action. With- 
out the conformation, or the inclination, it is hopeless 
to try to develop action to a degree that will make 
it worth the time and effort. On the other hand, 
a horse with head and neck of proper relation and 
well joined, that has a responsive mouth and some 
ambition, that has the various parts of the body 
in correct proportions and stands squarely on his 
legs, will when urged get his head up and nose in, and 
if restrained at the same time, by the use of the 
proper bit, will show^ superior action. 

In training the horse for high action there are 
three factors that require special attention : bitting, 
shoeing and conditioning. 

Bitting to improve action. — Now that we come to 
the special study of bitting to improve action, it 



Correct Form 



135 




136 Training the Trotter, Coacher and Roadster 

is important that we scrutinize the mouth, as there 
is much variation in shape and in the natural 
sensitiveness among individuals. Some horses pos- 
sess small tongues and rather narrow sharp bars, 
which are very sensitive to pressure and call for 
much care in training to the pressure of the bit. 
Because of the extreme tenderness, such a mouth is 
easily spoiled, whereas if properly trained to pres- 
sure it is likely to develop into a delightfully re- 
sponsive one. On the other hand, there are horses 
that possess thick, leathery tongues and heavy, 
coarse bars which are very difficult to make respon- 
sive, owing to their lack of sensitiveness. A close 
examination of the mouth, therefore, will give some 
idea of the method to employ in bitting to improve 
action. 

After familiarizing the coach horse with the uses 
of the bit by employing an easy bit much as sug- 
gested (p. 57), he should then be educated to the 
curb-bit. Instead of using common lines, as has been 
suggested, many prefer long ones, so they can re- 
main near the center of the training paddock while 
driving the horse around, as this gives a better view 
of the action and saves many steps. The curb-bit 
is made so as to divide the pressure between the in- 
side and the outside of the mouth, the chain under 
the lower jaw exerting pressure in such a way as 
to bend the head on the neck, or rather bend the 
nose in. By holding the horse's head up with an 



Curb-bits Improve the Action 



137 



overdraw check-rein and by holding his nose in with 
the curb-bit, he will when urged and restrained ''step 
up" instead of stepping forward. 

Curb-bits are so constructed that different de- 
grees of leverage can be exerted, and they may be- 
come instruments of torture in the hands of the 
inexperienced (Fig. 94, 34 to 36). If properly used, 




Fig. 30. — Coach horse properlj- bitted to favor action. 

however, they are really easier in many mouths 
than less severe bits, as the leverage they bring to 
bear will make some horses bend that cannot be 
made to do so without them. As soon as the horse 
bends his head, very little pressure need be exerted 
to hold the nose in. Never pull more than the 
exigency of the case requires, for injury and irri- 
tating sores will result. To encourage high stepping, 
simply exert sufficient pressure on the lines to hold 
the head up and the nose in (Figs. 30 and 31). 



138 Training the Trotter, Coacher and Roadster 

To familiarize the horse with the curb-bit, place- 
it in his mouth a few hours each day and let him 
stand in the stable. This gives an opportunity to 
become accustomed to the shape of the new bit in 
quiet, after which the pressure may be brought to 




Fig. 31. — Improving the action with a curb-bit ; head up and nose in. 

bear by degrees. This is very important, as many 
horses' mouths are spoiled the first day the curb-bit 
is used. The bit improves the style and action to 
such an extent that the driver feels encouraged, and 
he urges the horse against the bit and curbs him in 
until the mouth becomes abraded. As the parts be- 



Training to the Curb-hit 139 

come sore the animal begins to hold his head to one 
side, to toss it up or carry it unsteadily, to pull on 
the lines and finally to go irregularly in his gait, to 
hitch, to interfere and the like. 

When the horse is made familiar with the uses of 
the curb-bit by using the dumb jockey or the bitting- 
rig as described (p. 60), if at any time he shows 
evidence of discomfort, loosen the side-reins and 
then tighten them gradually. It is important to 
have the bit of the correct length and properly ad- 
justed. If he draws his tongue up in his mouth, 
or puts it over the bit, it is because the bit is too 
low, in which case it should be raised. If he gets 
his head too low, it should be held in the proper po- 
sition by using a check-rein. Training to the uses 
of the curb-bit requires patience, perseverance and 
tact. The tendency is to hurry this part of the 
work too rapidly. If the mouth becomes sore, 
rest it by keeping the bit out until it is better; then 
begin over again, using extra caution. The trainer 
will be rewarded for his time and effort, a^ it is re- 
markable how much the knee and hock action can be 
increased by cultivating a responsive mouth. 

Shoeing to improve action. — Shoeing and weighting 
are very important factors in properly balancing the 
driving horse, but one cannot shoe or weight a horse 
correctly until making a critical study of his move- 
ments. 

In training the trotting horse, it is often necessary 



140 Training the Trotter, Coacher and Roadster 

that he be shod very early in hfe, in which case a very 
light, plain shoe should be used. It is important to 
keep the shoes as light as possible, for every additional 
ounce has a detrimental influence upon the horse. 
The extra weight may occasionally be necessary, but 
it is none the less an evil because a necessary one. 

In shoeing, the aim should be to keep the foot 
elastic, yielding and natural. Fitting the shoe calls 
for careful study, — the old shoe will often furnish 
valuable information. In trimming the foot, be 
careful with the knife, cutting only the horn and 
wall. Leave the frog, the sole and the bars alone. 
They will care for themselves. When the foot is 
properly leveled and made as nearly natural as pos- 
sible, then fit the shoe to the foot and not the foot 
to the shoe. The shoe should be fitted cold. 
The nails should not be placed too near the edge 
of the hoof, nor too far back toward the quarters, 
thus leaving the heel free. In smoothing the 
clinched nails, do not rasp the outside of the 
hoof, as it will remove the natural protective cov- 
ering. The shoes should be reset at least once 
each month, otherwise the hoofs will grow out so 
as to destroy the natural form of the legs. 

The importance of weight on the horse's feet is 
often overestimated. While it is true that extra 
weight will often make him show more action for a 
time, particularly if he is well driven and in fine 
fettle, yet if he is called on to exert himself for 



Weighting to Improve the Action 141 

any length of time, especially if the going is heavy 
or if he is drawing a load, his movements will soon 
become labored, he will pound the ground, very 
likely overreach and forge, and the character of 
his action will be destroyed. When extra weight 
is necessary to bring out the action, it should be 
reduced as soon as possible. This should be done 
gradually. Since wear hghtens the shoes, it is a good 
plan when replacing them to have the new shoes 
the weight of the old ones after being reduced. 
If the horse continues to go well, reduce until the 
proper weight is reached. One has to be guided by 
the individual in determining the amount of weight 
to be put in the horse's shoes in order to bring out 
the best results in the way of action. 

In training for high action it is often of advan- 
tage to permit the hoofs to grow to a fair length, 
thus causing the horse to exert extra effort in rais- 
ing and extending the legs. Though fatiguing to 
the animal, this has a tendency to increase the 
action. This extra growth of the hoof, like extra 
weight in the shoe, is often a necessary evil when 
extreme action is desired. 

Defects in action can be corrected, in a measure, 
by modifying the shoe and the shape of the hoof. 
The horse that winds his feet outward may often have 
his action improved by having the inside branch of 
the shoe slightly the heavier, whereas the one that 
winds in should have the outside branch slightly 



142 Training the Trotter^ Coacher and Roadster 

increased in thickness. In case the horse extends 
too much and fails to bend his knees sufficiently, it 
is often advantageous to have the toes of the shoes 
fairly light and to increase the weight gradually 
toward the heels ; or in case the horse folds or bends 
the knees too much and fails to extend the feet 
sufficiently, increase the weight toward the toes and 
lighten it toward the heels. This of course must 
be done so as not to interfere with the level of the 
foot. If the true position of the leg is interfered 
with, the wear will not be equally distributed and 
lameness is likely to follow. In shoeing and balanc- 
ing to improve action, however, it is most important 
that each animal be critically studied and the method 
adopted that will yield the best results. 

Conditioning to improve actio?!. — To bring out the 
action, it is essential that the horse be in fine fettle. 
He must be full of nervous energy and his muscles 
well developed. No matter what his conformation, 
how thoroughly trained, or perfectly balanced, it is 
not possible for the horse that is run down in flesh 
and lacking thrift to come into the bit with that 
rhythmical, frictionless action that commands the 
respect of all. He must not onl}' know how to do it 
and feel like doing it, but must also have the power. 
The making of a responsive mouth, the correct bal- 
ancing and toning up of the system, should proceed 
together; one should never be permitted to go ahead 
of the others in making high-acting horses. 



Faulty Action 143 

Horses differ in the amount of food required to 
produce best results, just as they do in other ways. 
No rule can be made that will apply to all. One horse 
may keep strong and in fine condition on hay alone, 
while another may require ten or fifteen quarts of 
oats daily, in addition, to keep him right. In cases 
in which action contributes to the horse's value, he 
must also look well. This often complicates the 
feeding question, as an excess of hay in the ration 
sometimes distends the abdomen and gives the horse 
an unsightly appearance, particularly if he be slightly 
cow-bellied. To avoid this, one should feed a nu- 
tritious ration, rather concentrated in its nature, 
then give regular exercise to prevent the spirits from 
becoming exuberant (p. 147). 

INJURIOUS RESULTS OF FAULTY ACTION 

Not only is faulty action unsightly, but it results 
in many disagreeable, annoying and injurious de- 
fects. For convenience these may be divided into 
two classes: those caused by the hind and fore feet 
striking, variously referred to as over-reaching, 
forging and- clicking; and those due to the feet on 
either side hitting, referred to as interfering, striking, 
cutting and brushing. 

Over-reaching, forging and clicking. — These defects 
result from any cause that prevents the horse from 
getting his forefeet out of the way of the hind ones 



144 Training the Trotter, Coacher and Roadster 

while traveling. In some cases, the horse is pre- 
disposed to the trouble, in which case it is often diffi- 
cult to overcome, while in others it is excited by a 
number of conditions which can be remedied, as a 
rule, by rational treatment. Undue shortness of 
body, fore pasterns disproportionately long, withers 
lower than the croup and low heads are frequent 
predisposing causes. Lack of strength, or fatigue 
due to hard or fast work, a hard, unyielding, unre- 
sponsive mouth due to bad hands, and soft footing or 
heavy going, such as driving on soft earth roads, 
particularly if the horse is used to the hard footing 
of the city pavement, are frequent exciting causes. 
To overcome the difficulty, first seek out and 
remove the cause if possible. In the large majority 
of cases, after the horse is put in good condition, 
the mouth well made and the feet properly shod, there 
will be no further difficulty. In some cases it may 
be necessary to employ artificial means, though this 
should be done only as a last resort. To remedy 
over-reaching and kindred faults, the principle to 
pursue is to hasten the action of the forefeet and to 
encourage a slow or dwelling movement of the hind 
ones, in order to allow the former to get out of the 
way of the latter. The action of the forefeet can 
often be hastened by slightly rounding off the toes 
of the front shoes, as this has a tendency to encour- 
age the horse to raise his feet quickly. On the other 
hand, the action of the hind feet can often be retarded 



Correcting Faulty Action 145 

by raising the toes of the hind shoes and lowering 
the heels. 

Interfering, striking, cutting and brushing. — Like 
over-reaching, these defects also result from a num- 
ber of causes, some of which are predisposed, while 
others are due to exciting conditions. Defective 
conformation, such as narrow chests, legs and particu- 
larly fetlocks deviating inward, and feet of poor 
conformation are the principal predisposing causes. 
Improper mouthing, fatigue, poor shoeing, uneven 
and slippery footing, and the like, are frequent 
exciting, causes. 

Of the many defects resulting from faulty action, 
interfering is one of the most troublesome. It is, 
however, one that admits of a large measure of pre- 
vention, and the ill effects of it can be remedied 
to a very considerable extent by proper bitting, 
shoeing or balancing, and by the use of boots. 

The treatment to overcome interfering and kin- 
dred troubles is much the same as that suggested for 
over-reaching. First, find the cause and remove 
it if possible. Then put the horse in good condition, 
and see that his mouth is properly bitted and his 
feet correctly shod. When the difficulty is due to 
defects in the conformation of the hoof, it may, in 
a measure, be overcome by shoeing. If the horse 
toes-out, shorten the outer part of the toe to a greater 
extent than the inner, or if he toes-in, trim the hoof 
in the opposite way. When the injury is inflicted 



146 Training the Trotter, Coacher and Roadster 

by the inner part of the hoof, as it often is in the hind 
feet, the difficulty can be remedied, in a degree, 
by rasping the inner side to reduce sUghtly its con- 
vex form and by placing the inner branch of the shoe 
under the foot as far as possible without running too 
much risk of bruising the sole. Relief is often gained 
by shortening the inside of the hoof more than the 
outside, in which case the inner branch of the shoe is 
thickened to keep the foot level. The inner part 
of the shoe should be well rounded so that there will 
be as little danger as possible of inflicting injury. 
In other cases, relief is gained by shoeing with a 
three-quarter shoe — one ■ coming about halfway 
round on the inside and not covering the surface of 
the inner quarter. Shoeing to remedy interfering 
requires careful study of each individual. 

In the training of young horses for speed or high 
action, boots are strongly recommended to prevent 
injury, should the animal interfere. It is of very 
common occurrence for youngsters to interfere until 
they become familiar with the bit, after which no 
difficulty is experienced. Furthermore, the colt 
may become frightened at any time, lose his stride, 
strike himself, and inflict serious injury. From the 
very beginning, therefore, boots should be used as a 
safeguard and as a preventive against possible 
injuries (Fig. 27). 



Exercise the Horse Regularly 147 

EXEECrSE CONTRIBUTES TO ACTION 

Faulty action is often due to irregular or insuffi- 
cient exercise. The periods of enforced idleness 
occasioned by lack of business engagements of the 
master or by inclement weather, are often followed 
by long drives and hours of over-exertion. This is 
accompanied by many faulty movements, such as 
irregular and indirect action, hitching and hobbling, 
interfering and over-reaching, and the like. The 
matter is still further complicated by the owner, 
who, desiring to keep his horse in presentable condi- 
tion, often overfeeds during the enforced idleness. 
Irregular work weakens the constitution, and the 
horse thus exercised generally has but a brief 
career. 

Regular and judicious exercise stimulates the appe- 
tite, promotes digestion, encourages assimilation 
and helps the system to remove material for which 
it has no further need and which, if allowed to remain, 
would prove injurious. Such exercise improves the 
muscular tone and keeps the animal in good spirits, 
thereby enabling him to control his nervous and 
muscular action. The amount of work necessary 
to keep the animal in condition will depend on the 
individual. 

This brings us to a discussion of the rather common 
practice of horse owners in large cities turning their 
horses out for a part of the year. There is much 



148 Training the Trotter, Coacher and Roadster 

difference of opinion as to the advantages of such 
practice, particularly if the horse is in good condi- 
tion and going sound. Some one has said that 
''two let-ups are as bad as a break-down," and there 
seems to be considerable truth in the statement. 
To throw a horse into complete or comparative idle- 
ness for any length of time causes his tendons to 
lose strength, his muscular system to lose tone and 
his nervous system to lose power of application. 
True, such a horse may be worked back into condi- 
tion, but it will take months to restore muscular 
tone and nervous energy. As a rule, the horse is 
taken up and put to work at once, with the result 
that he suffers from muscular soreness and may 
develop faulty action very difficult to remedy. 
With the horse that is sound and in good condition, 
the better plan is to provide regular exercise. 

On the other hand, if the horse is run down, 
slightly lame, or otherwise out of condition, compara- 
tive idleness is almost essential. Such animals are 
already in poor condition, and there is nothing better 
than a good blue-grass pasture, well watered and 
well shaded, especially in the early summer before 
flies become troublesome. Such pastures provide 
natural conditions, as the horse in- feeding will take 
some exercise, the morning dew will improve the 
physical condition of his feet, and pasture consti- 
tutes the best of food. If convenient, he should 
be fed grain in addition, as this aids in regaining 



Exercise Contributes to Action 149 

muscular tone and nervous energy. After the horse 
has regained his strength, he should be worked 
gradually into condition again. The mistake is often 
made of putting the animal to work too quickly, 
thus offsetting the good effect of the rest. 



CHAPTER V 
TRAINING THE SADDLE HORSE 

The saddle-bred colt should receive much the same 
training as that suggested for the foal (p. 26). The 
saddle work, however, should not begin until the 
colt is at least two years of age, and in most cases 
it is preferable not to begin the real training until 
three years old. The reason for this delay is apparent, 
as the saddle horse is obliged to bear the weight of 
the rider and, therefore, should be well matured to 
avoid straining the muscles of the back and the 
tendons and ligaments of the legs. If the saddle- 
bred colt seems good enough to make a show horse, 
and is stout and rugged, the training may begin 
early, but extra care must be employed to prevent 
injury. 

When the colt is sufficiently mature to begin the 
saddle work, he should be taught the uses of the bit 
much as suggested in bitting the work horse and the 
coach horse (pp. 56 and 134). As with high-acting 
horses this is a very important part of the saddle 
horse's training, and the work should be thoroughly 
accomplished before mounting. 

150 



Riding Bridle and Saddle 151 

EQUIPMENT FOR TRAINING A SADDLE HORSE 

The riding bridle. — After teaching the saddle 
horse the uses of the bit with a common bridle, the 
riding-bridle should be employed. This bridle is 
similar to the common bridle except the bit and 
reins. The bit is similar to a curb-bit with provi- 
sion for the attachment of two sets of reins, one set 
to the snaffle, the other to the curb (Fig. 94, 31 to 
33). Some riders prefer two bridles, one provided 
with a snaffle, and the other with a curb-bit. It is 
not considered good practice to use the curb without 
the snaffle, as the refractory horse may become diffi- 
cult to control by the former. Before attempting 
to mount, the horse should be made familiar with the 
bits, much as suggested in the case of the curb-bit 
(p. 138). If the horse has a tendency to throw the 
head upward, the martingale should be used, as the 
rider is liable to injury. 

The saddle. — There are many makes of saddles, 
some devised especially for men (Fig. 32, 1 and 2) 
and others for women (Fig. 32, 3 and 4). A rather 
light and flexible saddle is preferable to a very heavy 
and stiff one. The pommel — upward projection 
in front — and the cantle — upward projection be- 
hind — should not extend too high, especially for 
the horse in training. Care should be exercised to 
see that the saddle fits properly and that the weight 
is equally distributed. The stirrups and stirrup- 



152 



Training the Saddle Horse 



straps should receive much attention. Stirrups are 
made in many forms (Fig. 33). Whatever the form 




Fig. 32. — Types of saddles. 1 and 2 for men, 3 and 4 for women. 

chosen, they should be of light, neat construction, 
and so arranged as to admit the feet easily. Some 



Saddle Stirrups 



153 



riders prefer the safety stirrups, so that in case of 
accident there will be no danger in getting the feet 
fast, as the safety stirrups are provided with latches 
which spring 
open when the 
pressure is re- 
moved, thus 
freeing the feet 
(Fig. 33, 3). The 
stirrup-straps 
should be prop- 
erly adjusted. 
If too short, the 
legs of the rider 
will be held in 
a cramped and 
tiresome posi- 
tion, and if too 
long, the rider 
cannot properly 
balance himself. 
The saddle-girth 
should be ar- 
ranged moder- 
ately tight so as Fig. 33. — Types of saddle stirrups. 7, Military; 
, J i 1 ■^' Texas leather : S, Safety ; A, Ox-bow ; 5, 

to prevent the slipper stirrup. 

saddle from 

turning. There is much difference of opinion as to 

the advisability of using a saddle-blanket, some rec- 




154 



Training the Saddle Horse 



ommending its use, while others state that with a 
properly fitted saddle it is useless. 

Whij) and spurs. — These are important articles 
in the training of a saddle horse. They may be 
used as aids in bringing out the gaits or as stimulants; 
hence, it is important to teach their uses very early 
in the training period. In teaching the horse to 

obey the whip, 
either as an aid or 
a stimulant, one 
should be careful 
to use it in such 
a way that the 
horse will not be- 
come unsteady in 
the event of his 
rider carrying 
anything in his 
hand (p. 19). 

In teaching the 
horse to obey the 
spurs, care must be exercised to avoid making him 
regard them as instruments of torture. Many spurs 
are so constructed as to injure the horse if improperly 
used (Fig. 34, 2). For use in training the saddle 
horse, a light, mild spur is recommended (Fig. 34, 1). 
Gradually the horse should be made familiar with the 
uses of the spurs, at first by pressure of the flat of the 
foot or heel, then by that of the spurs without a 




Fig. 34. — Types of spurs. 1, Racing; 2, i 
.tent ; 3, English ; ^, Plain ; 5, Army spur. 



Mounting the Horse 155 

rowel, or with a blunted rowel, and lastly by the 
pressure of the common spurs. The horse should 
be made so thoroughly obedient to them that when 
riding him we may dispense with their use, the con- 
tact of the heel being sufficient to produce the 
desired results. 



MOUNTING HORSE FOR FIRST TIME 

After the saddle horse has been taught the uses of 
the bit, he should be educated to stand while being 
mounted. This is an important part of the saddle 
horse's training, for it is very provoking to have a 
horse continually stepping about or starting while 
one is mounting. Many horses otherwise well 
trained possess this aggravating habit. 

After driving the horse about the training pad- 
dock, as suggested in teaching the commands (p. 63), 
take him to his stall and carefully place the saddle 
on his back, first permitting him to feel and smell it, 
if he likes. Draw the girth moderately tight and 
leave him in the stall until he becomes familiar with 
the object on his back. If unsteady, he should be 
caressed. Then cautiously remove the saddle and 
carefully replace as before. Repeat until he exhibits 
no uneasiness on being saddled. 

Next take the horse into the training paddock, 
place across the saddle a half-filled sack of sand or 
earth, secure firmly and drive him .about the inclo- 



156 Training the Saddle Horse 

sure until he becomes steady. We may now remove 
the sack, and if the horse has exhibited any unsteadi- 
ness, apply the noose- or rope-twitch (p. 197). 
Let an assistant hold the horse and correct any 
uneasiness by using the twitch while the animal is 
being mounted. Quietly mount and dismount several 
times, rewarding or punishing the horse according 
to his conduct. The assistant may lead the horse 
about the inclosure to familiarize him, while in 
motion, with the weight on his back. Now the 
rider should take a short and firm hold on the reins, 
so as to be able to meet any emergency, while the 
assistant removes the twitch. Ride the horse first 
about the inclosure, and then in the field, until he 
becomes perfectly familiar with the extra weight 
and will obey the voice and reins. 

Some horsemen mount for the first time by grad- 
ually educating the horse to bear the weight of a 
man's body. They begin by handhng and caress- 
ing the animal, then catching hold around the neck 
well back toward the withers, and by degrees familiar- 
izing him with the weight by hanging on to the back 
part of the neck. After he learns to bear weight at 
the withers, pass to the back, and in a like manner 
educate him to bear weight, first by simply leaning 
on him, gradually increasing the weight, and lastl}^ 
by taking a position astride. The horse is frequently 
caressed to assure him that he is doing well. This 
method works well with the gentle horse. In case 



Controlling Movements with the Legs 157 

the horse is difficult to mount, more strenuous 
methods must be adopted (p. 274). 

To mount the trained horse, grasp the reins in the 
left hand and catch hold of the mane just in front of 
the withers. With the right hand, first aid the left 
foot into the stirrup, then catch hold of the pommel. 
Now by a springing leap pull yourself up and stand in 
the left stirrup, then place the right leg over the 
saddle and into the right stirrup. Assume a com- 
fortable position, with the arms hanging naturally, 
the left one, which supports the reins, being held 
about even with the top of the pommel (for method 
of holding the reins see page 131). 

The horse should now be educated to the uses of 
the spurs and the rider's legs in guiding and control- 
ling. Closing the knees without pressure by the low^er 
parts of the legs tends to steady the horse while in 
action. Placing the lower part of the legs slightly to 
the rear, and closing them equally, thus causing slight 
pressure on either side, prepares the horse to move, 
or if already in action, has a tendency to encourage 
him to keep up to the bit. Closing the lower legs 
with considerable pressure behind the girth stimu- 
lates the horse to move forward. Placing the right 
leg to the rear and closing with considerable pressure 
stimulates the horse to move his hind quarters to 
the left, while a corresponding action with the left 
leg stimulates the horse to move his hind quarters 
to the right. Each of these movements should be 



158 Training the Saddle Horse 

taken up separately and taught the horse until he 
will obey without the aid of the voice, rein or whip. 
It is important that the saddle horse be taught to 
guide to the right and left when you apply pressure 
with the knees and incline the body in the desired 
direction. This is accomplished most efficiently 
by guiding on the neck. To do this, first cross the 
snaffle reins under the lower jaw; now as you pull 
on the left snaffle ring, slight pressure is brought to 
bear on the right side of the neck, which induces the 
animal to guide to the left; simultaneously clamp his 
body with your knees and incline your bod}^ to the 
left. Repeat until the horse will guide to the left 
when you clamp the knees and incline to the left. 
Next teach the animal to guide to the right by revers- 
ing the process. When thoroughly familiar with the 
method, teach him to guide to the right and left in 
rapid succession as you incline either to the right or 
left. 

GAITS OF THE SADDLE HORSE DESCRIBED 

Before attempting to teach the various gaits, we 
should have a clear conception of each and know 
exactly what movements the horse must make in 
performing the same. The gaits of the saddle horse 
are much confused in the popular mind because a 
few are designated by several terms. There are 
three natural gaits, — the walk, trot, and gallop, — 
and several artificial ones, being more or less varia- 



How a Horse Walks 



159 



tions of the natural gaits, such as the running walk, 
fox trot, slow pace, rack and the like. 

The walk. — This may be considered the founda- 
tion of all saddle gaits. It is a gait of four flat beats, 
each foot being planted in regular order. If the right 
forefoot comes first to the ground, the left hind foot 





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Fig. 35. — The walk. 

is next planted ; then the left forefoot and finally the 
right hind foot. The horse has never less than two, 
and never more than three feet bearing weight on 
the ground at the same time. The weight is borne 
first by the two forefeet and right hind foot ; then 
by the right forefoot and left hind foot ; then by the 
two hind feet and right forefoot; and lastl}^ by the 



160 Training the Saddle Horse 

left forefoot and right hind foot (Fig. 35). When 
the movement is quickened the horse does not at 
once change his gait, but extends his strides and 
makes them more uniform, until further extension 
becomes difficult, when he will break into a trot. 

The trot. — In the common trot the footfalls 
mark two sharp beats, and the horse moves from one 
pair of diagonally disposed legs to the other pair. 
In the common and long trot there is a short interval 
between each step when all four feet are free from 
the ground. During the short trot, however, one 
pair of diagonal legs is on the ground all the time. 
The trot depends simply upon the united action of a 
foreleg and a diagonal hind leg, hence the weight is 
borne by the diagonally disposed legs alternately 
(Fig. 36) . The trot is not as fast a gait as some others, 
but it is one in which the average horse is capable of 
traveling farther in a day's journey with less fatigue 
than any other, on account of the diagonal pairs of 
legs being used as weight bearers and propellers. 
This diagonal movement makes the gait a rough one 
for saddle work. If the movement is hurried, the 
horse extends himself until further extension becomes 
difficult, when he will break into a gallop or canter. 

The canter. — In common usage there are three 
words describing this gait, according to its speed — 
the canter, the gallop or lope, and the run. "\^lien 
the horse is going fast it is called a run; when going 
at a moderate speed it is called a gallop or lope, and 



How a Horse Canters 



161 



when he is going slow the gait is called a canter. 
There are two other terms sometimes used in this 
connection, the hand-gallop and the three-footed 
canter. The former comes between the canter and 
the gallop, but is more nearly like the canter, while 
the latter is really a canter in front and a rack behind. 




Fig. 36. — The trot. 

In other words, it is a mixed gait and is considered 
undesirable. The gallop and the run are rough to 
ride, while the hand-canter and the canter are very 
pleasant. 

The true canter is a gait of three beats. If the 
weight is received upon the left hind foot, it next falls 
upon the right hind foot and left forefoot, and then 

M 



162 



Training the Saddle Horse 



upon the right forefoot. The horse works on his 
haunches, with his legs well under him; he bounds up 
in front gracefully and drops to the ground lightly, 
sustaining his weight on his hind legs and haunches 
in such a manner as to prove delightful riding. The 
slower the gait, so long as performed with animation 




Fig. 37. — The canter. 

and exactness, the better, about five miles an hour 
being the most desirable (Fig. 37). 

When the horse goes into the air from his left fore- 
leg, followed by the other legs in the regular order of 
succession, he is said to be leading with the near or 
left foreleg and to be galloping left ; when he goes 
into the air from his right foreleg he is said to be 



How a Horse Racks 



163 



leading with his off or right foreleg and to be gallop- 
ing right. 

The rack. — Formerly this gait was designated by 
the term "single foot." It was so named because 
each foot falls upon the ground separately, thus mak- 
ing it a four-beat gait. The rack and the single- 




foot, therefore, are terms designating the same gait. 
The term "rack" has come into more common use 
because of action taken by the American Saddle 
Horse Breeders' Association. 

While the true rack is a gait of four beats, it seems 
to be difficult for some horses to perform, and they 
amble or pace instead. These gaits, though per- 



164 



Training the Saddle Horse 



formed by the alternate moving of the pair of legs 
on either side, hence often called "side wheelers," 
and when true consisting of two beats only, are never- 
theless closely associated with the rack; in fact the 




The running walk. 



rack seems to be a very fast amble,, in which the feet 
follow each other in very rapid succession, thus break- 
ing up the two beat side wheeled motion (Fig. 38). 

The running walk. — The name fittingly describes 
the gait. It is simply an accelerated walk, the foot- 
falls following each other in rapid succession. It is a 
four beat gait. The running walk is an easier gait 
than the walk, and is very much faster, though slower 
than the rack. It is spoken of as a slow gait (Fig. 39). 



The Slow Gaits 



165 



The fox trot. — This gait is simply a slow, rather 
loosely jointed trot. Some one has fittingly described 
it as a "dog trot." The action is somewhat similar 
to the trot described above except that it is much 




Fig. 40. — Fox-trot. 

slower, and the beats are often separated. This is 
also called a slow gait (Fig. 40). 

The slow pace. — While similar to the pace of the 
harness horse, this gait differs in that both feet on 
the same side of the body do not strike the ground at 
the same time. There is just enough break in the 
impact to introduce a short interval, thus making 
it a four beat gait similar in this respect to the 
running walk and fox trot. It is a slow gait. 



166 



Training the Saddle Horse 



The jump. — While not a gait, properly speaking, 
hunters are required to perform the jump, and it is 
here described. Most horses take the hurdles at the 
gallop or run by shortening the steps and advancing 




Fig. 41. — The jump. 



with both hind feet nearly simultaneously until 
sufficiently near to take off. They bring the hind 
feet well under the center of gravity, and instantly 
the forequarters are raised, and this action is imme- 
diately followed b,y an energetic propulsion of the 



Saddle Horses Classified 167 

hind legs sufficient to lift the weight and carry the 
long body of the horse entirely over the hurdles. 
As soon as the obstacle is passed, the forelegs sepa- 
rate, so as not to make contact with the earth at the 
same time. Thus the forefeet come in contact with 
the earth in rapid succession, and they are imme- 
diately followed by the hind feet landing separately, 
in such a manner as to deaden the shock. All the 
feet are now free to gallop off as before the leap 
(Fig. 41). 

CLASSES OF SADDLE HORSES 

There are three classes of saddle horses: the walk- 
ing horse ; the walk, trot and canter horse ; and the 
five-gaited saddle horse, to which may be added two 
others, the hunter and the high-school horse. The 
walking horse is one well trained at the running walk 
gait. This is the business horse, and is in demand 
on ranches, plantations, large farms, and the like. 
The walk, trot, and canter horse is an animal well 
trained in the three gaits and is in demand wherever 
saddle horses are used. The gaited saddle horse 
is required to go five gaits. He must be able to 
walk, trot, rack, and canter, and for the fifth gait 
he may choose any one of the three slow gaits, the 
running walk, fox trot, or slow pace. This horse 
is in demand for pleasure and show purposes. The 
hunter is usually able to go most of the saddle gaits, 
and in addition is well trained at the jump, while 



168 Training the Saddle Horse 

the high-school horse, in addition to going all the 
saddle gaits, is well trained in many fancy steps. 
From time to time there is still another class of saddle 
horses for which there is much demand, and is 
for use in the army. These horses, in addition to 
doing the ordinary saddle gaits, must be trained to 
stand gun-fire, and some of them, more particularly 
the scouting horses, to lie down when commanded. 

TRAINING TO THE GAITS 

Now that the horse is thoroughly familiar with the 
use of the bit, — both snaffle and curb, — with whip and 
spurs, and with the rider's legs in aiding and control- 
ling the movements, and that we have a clear under- 
standing of the movements of the various gaits, we 
are prepared to teach the horse how to perform the 
gaits. Let no one attempt to teach the gaits until all 
of these requirements, on the part of both rider and 
horse, have been met, for failure will surely result, 
since the rider cannot teach that which he does not 
understand, and the horse cannot learn until means 
of communication have been established between the 
rider and his mount. 

The walk. — Training to a true or collected walk 
is a very important part of the saddle horse's educa- 
tion, although it is perhaps the most neglected of all 
gaits. To train the horse to walk, take the snaffle 
rein in hand in such a manner as just to feel the ani- 



Training to Walk 169 

mal's mouth, and allow the hand to be slightly influ- 
enced by the movements of his head. Apply the 
unspurred heel in such a way as to induce the horse 
to increase the length of his stride, without breaking 
into a jog. If he shows any inclination to break, 
immediately steady him by a slight increase of the 
pressure on the bit, and by the voice. After a few 
breaks, the rider can tell when the horse is on the 
verge of breaking, and should hold himself in readi- 
ness to gently prevent him from doing so. It is 
important to remember, in teaching the horse to 
walk fast, that he must be allowed the freedom of his 
head, and that the reins must not be held in a firm 
hand. If the reins are held firmly, it causes him to 
shorten his steps and to go into the air instead of 
moving rapidly forward. As the lesson progresses, 
the blunt spurs may be applied to stimulate the 
horse to greater effort. 

It is not advisable to continue the walking lesson. 
After going a couple of miles, carrying the horse well 
up to his Hmit at the flat-footed walk, he may be 
quietly urged into a trot for a quarter of a mile, mak- 
ing him do his best as to style and action all of the 
way. Steady down to the walk, and continue as be- 
fore. To prevent the horse from acquiring a slov- 
enly or uneven gait, always make him do his best at 
each gait. To perfect the horse at the flat-footed 
walk may require months, but we should keep at the 
task, always urging him to the mark. 



170 Training the Saddle Horse 

The trot. — In teaching the horse to trot, take him 
on the snaffle reins and hold tolerably firm on the 
bit. Gently urge him into a slow, collected trot, and 
as he prepares to start begin to post — that is, rise in 
the saddle. As a rule, the saddle-bred horse will go 
to trotting the instant you post in the saddle, if 
urged at the same time. If the horse should make 
a mistake and start on a ''jiggle," bring him to a 
walk and try again. As you give him the word this 
time, reach forward, and with the right hand grasp 
him by the mane, well up on the neck. It seems 
instinct for the young horse to trot when you do 
this. Sometimes if you bear a little weight and 
rather shove his head down, the green horse will go 
off on the trot. With a difficult horse some excellent 
horsemen recommend reaching forward and taking 
hold of one ear. They state that it is a very rare 
case where this will not work. After the horse knows 
what you want him to do, then work back to his 
neck, and eventually by just touching his neck in 
front of the saddle he will go on the trot. It should 
be said, however, that the ear method is condemned 
by many saddle-horse trainers. 

To develop style and action urge the horse for- 
ward by such gentle means as a light tapping with 
the whip; by the judicious application of the spurs 
and by the voice; but the rider must not allow the 
animal to pull on the bit. The head must be retained 
in the correct position by a gentle see-saw action 



Leading with a Foreleg 171 

with the reins. In the latter stages of the training, 
the curb-rein may be brought into play to improve 
the style and increase the action. Because of the 
extra exertion, the trotting lesson should always be 
of short duration, and the horse kept well within 
his strength. 

The horse should be taught to lead with either 
foreleg at the discretion of the rider. To teach the 
animal to lead with the right foreleg, gently pull 
his head to the right, inclining the body some- 
what to the right and at the same time cautiously 
apply the right spur just behind the girth, as the 
prick there causes the animal to move his right 
foreleg. Some horsemen gently strike the right 
elbow with the toe of their boot, and at the same 
time tap the horse as far back on the left quarter 
as possible with the whip. This causes the horse 
to bring the left hind leg forward, and as the right 
front leg moves in unison the desired action is ob- 
tained. To teach the horse to lead with the left 
front leg, just reverse the procedure. This training 
should be given in the paddock, and should be re- 
peated until the rider can control the leading leg 
at a given signal. 

The canter. — With the horse at the walk, take 
him on the curb-rein, pull him together until his 
legs are under him, lean slightly to the front and urge 
him forward by the gentle application of the spurs, 
restraining him at the same time with the curb- 



172 Training the Saddle Horse 

bit. As the horse starts, salute him with the right 
hand; if he fails to notice this, snap the fingers to 
attract his attention. This is the signal to be used 
in later life when you wish him to canter. After 
cantering a quarter mile steady him down to the 
walk, and then repeat until the horse understands 
what he is expected to do. 

Speed is not sought at the canter, simply stylish and 
comfortable action. This must be attained by induc- 
ing the horse to bring his hind legs well under the body, 
and at the same time by keeping his head in the proper 
position by slight pressure on the curb-bit. 

Teach the horse to lead with either foreleg as sug- 
gested in training to trot. To facilitate this, when 
teaching to lead with the right foreleg circle to the 
right, and when teaching to lead with the left fore- 
leg circle to the left. Teach him to lead with al- 
ternate legs by riding him in the outline of the 
figure 8. First use a large figure, but gradually de- 
crease it until it is as small as possible. The horse 
will thus learn to change his leading leg in accordance 
with the direction in which he is required to circle. 

The running walk. — With the horse at the' w^alk, 
take him lightly on the curb reins, urge him just out 
of the walk by a gentle touch of the spurs and as 
he starts reach over and touch him on the withers. 
As he breaks from the walk hold him steady and do 
not allow him to go into a trot or rack, or to fall 
back into a walk. This is a very delightful gait 



Training to the Slow Gaits 173 

to ride and one in which the horse keeps time to 
his steps by the nodding of his head, hence the term 
''nodder" which is sometimes apphed to horses of 
this class. 

Fox trot. — With the horse at the walk, take him 
on the snaffle rein and urge him into a slow '''dog 
trot" or "shog." As with the running walk, do 
not let him forge ahead into a trot or rack or slow 
down to a walk, but when he strikes the desired gait 
hold him steady. After going a short distance slow 
down and then repeat. Next practice urging the 
horse, alternately, from the walk to the running 
walk and from the walk to the fox trot. Repeat un- 
til the horse will obey the signals without the slight- 
est confusion. This may take months, but it is essen- 
tial to a well-trained saddle horse. 

The slow pace. — This gait is taught in much the 
same manner as the fox trot, some horses taking 
naturally to one, some to the other, depending on 
whether they have a natural inclination to trot or 
pace. Take the horse mildly on the curb-rein and 
urge him just out of the walk by pressure on the 
legs and a slight side to side shuffle of the reins just 
sufficient to work on the bit. When the horse 
takes the gait hold him steady. Slow down to a 
walk and then repeat. Later alternate with the 
running walk and fox trot. 

The rack. — In teaching this gait, choose a road 
with rather hard, smooth surface. The rack is a rather 



174 Training the Saddle Horse 

difficult gait on the horse. If the road is soft, he 
fatigues rapidly, while if rough the gait is difficult 
to perform. With the horse at one of the slow gaits, 
preferably the slow pace, take him on the curb-rein 
and urge him forward by gripping the knees so that 
he will feel the clasp, and give him the spurs. A 
horse is taught to rack by spurring him forward and 
curbing him back. Should he start to trot, some- 
times a side to side shake of the reins just sufficient 
to work on the bit will encourage the green horse 
to start off on a rack. Sit firm in the saddle and 
urge the horse up against the curb. Do not allow 
him to slow down into a pace; if he falters, touch 
him with the spurs and lift him gently on the bit 
to steady him. After racking a short distance 
steady down to the walk and repeat. Continue the 
process until he will rack the moment you draw up 
on the curb and apply the pressure with the knees. 
Each of the saddle gaits should now be repeated un- 
til the horse will take any one at the given signal. 
This may require much time and patient effort, but 
such is essential to the saddle horse's education. 
The jump. — Some horses are born jumpers and 
require practically no training, but jump efficiently 
at the first attempt, while others appear to have no 
idea of jumping whatever. While opinion is divided 
as to the proper age to begin training the hunter, 
many excellent horsemen think the jumping ex- 
ercise cannot begin too early if properly conducted. 



Training to Jump 175 

This training may well begin during colthood while 
he is running with the dam by arranging a couple 
of fences, such as the dam can easily step aver, say 
eighteen inches or two feet high, and so situated that 
both mare and foal must pass over them when 
leaving the stable and when returning. To avoid 
accident these fences should be made of movable 
boards placed one upon the other, thus avoiding 
cracks, and the top should be padded with burlap. 
As soon as the foal learns to jump easily, the boards 
may be removed for a month and later replaced. 

Exercise of a similar nature should be provided 
from time to time, gradually increasing the height 
of the hurdles up to say three feet by the time the 
horse is three years old. It is not considered safe 
to go beyond this height, as it is very easy to sprain 
the young horse or to cause the development of 
bony growths such as curbs, splints and the like. 

At three years of age, the hunter may be trained 
to the uses of the bit much as suggested for the sad- 
dle horse (p. 150). Now with the long lines drive 
the horse about an inclosure similar to the small 
track described for the trotter (p. Ill), but provided 
with high, well-padded fences on either side, and 
with two hurdles on one stretch and one on the 
other. For the first two rounds place the bars on 
the ground and if the horse has been trained as 
suggested, he will jump them. This serves to fix 
the idea as to what he is supposed to do. Wlien the 



176 Training the Saddle Horse 

horse goes steadily around at the canter, arrange the 
hurdles about one foot high, then lead him toward 
one of them and when near quietly encourage him 
to jump. If he refuses, lead him back and punish 
him as he moves away from the hurdles, then turn 
and try again, never punishing as he approaches 
the object, as this distracts his attention and he 
will refuse again. When he jumps, caress him. 

During the second lesson approach the hurdles 
from the opposite direction, and alternate from 
day to day. Do not hurry the horse, and do not 
run risks by asking him to jump when the earth is 
wet and slippery, or when there is the slightest dan- 
ger. Continue this exercise until the horse is four 
years old, when he may be mounted and ridden about 
the farm. At first, to inspire confidence, have 
him jump easy objects. If you do not overdo the 
work, he will soon acquire courage and carry you 
wherever you may wish to go. 

Training to stand. — ■ The saddle horse should be 
taught to stand whenever the reins are thrown 
over his head. This is done by fastening a bag 
to the reins in such a way that when the horse 
steps forward he steps on the bag, and gives him- 
self a jerk at the bit. Very soon he learns that 
when the reins are over his head and the bag on the 
ground, he is to stand. After a while the bag may 
be removed, and the horse will stand simply by 
throwing the reins over his head and on the ground. 



Training to Stand Gun Fire 177 

If he should acquire the habit of stepping forward, at- 
tach the bag for a time. 



TRAINING HORSES FOR THE ARMY 

In preparing horses for use in the army, whether 
for cavalry, scouting or artillery work, one of 
the first lessons should be to train the animal to 
stand gun-fire. Some horses are so nervous that 
they seem unable to become reconciled to such noise, 
and if the animal is of this class, it is of advantage 
to know it at once, since further training is useless. 

There are two methods of training horses to stand 
gun-fire, the Rarey and the Galvayne. In the 
Rarey method (p. 212) the horse is laid on the ground 
while firecrackers are shot off over his body, first 
at some distance, but gradually approaching. After 
he becomes reconciled to the noise, he is let up and 
the use of the crackers continued; then a revolver 
is used, and lastly the gun. If at any time the horse 
becomes unsteady, he is laid down again and the en- 
tire process repeated until he becomes so familiar 
with the gun that he will stand while it is being 
fired from his back. In the Galvayne method 
(p. 219) the head and tail are tied together so that 
the horse goes round and round until the excitement 
passes away. Only a few crackers are used at first, 
and as soon as the horse becomes familiar with the 
noise his head is freed, and the noise continued as 

N 



178 Training the Saddle Horse 

in the Rarey method. If at any time the horse be- 
comes unsteady, his head and tail are tied together 
again and a new start is made. This is continued 
until he becomes perfectly familiar with the firing 
of guns. 

The cavalry horse. — The work of the army is 
often carried out under rough conditions, and it is 
important that the cavalry horse be trained at the 
jump as well as at the walk, trot and canter. He 
should be so thoroughly educated that the rider can 
control the horse's movements by the legs and 
voice in case both hands should be engaged in operat- 
ing the guns. As soon as the horse will perform the 
movements alone, he should be placed in the ranks 
and taught to act in unison with the other mounts. 

The scouting horse. — In addition to the training 
suggested for the cavalry horse, the scout's mount 
should be taught to lie down at the command of 
the rider and permit him to fire over his reclining 
body. Some horses are very easily taught to lie 
down. This is accomplished by the Rarey method 
(p. 212), or by some modification of it. The horse 
is laid down gently as described, and while down 
is caressed. Then he is let up and the process re- 
peated ; this time he is commanded to '4ie down" 
or tapped on the back of the front legs with the whip, 
and an instant later his feet are drawn up by the 
ropes and he goes down again. Caress him as be- 
fore. The process is rej^eated until the horse will 



Picketing the Army Horse 179 

lie down when commanded to do so. This may 
require tact and patience. If the horse seems 
rather obstinate, give him a few hard falls, but ca- 
ress him when down. 

Picketing. — There are two methods of picket- 
ing army horses, one by the low rope, lying on the 
ground and secured by pegs, the other by the high 
rope. In the former method the animals are secured 
to the ground-rope by one or both heels, preferably 
both, while in the latter method the rope is arranged 
taut, nearly breast high, and does away with the 
necessity for heel-ropes, which have a tendency to 
chafe the pasterns, even though soft, pliable hobbles 
are used. The heels, in consequence, become sore, 
and when on the march it is very difficult to keep 
the abrasions clean so as to give them an oppor- 
tunity to heal (p. 375). Both methods are exten- 
sively used. 

TRAINING SADDLE HORSES FOR SPECIAL WORK 

Polo game. — In the making of a polo pony it is 
very important that he possess a good temper and 
be well trained in the uses of the bit, and to the walk, 
trot and canter. He should be taught these gaits as 
thoroughly as the cavalry horse, for the rider's hands 
are constantly engaged in manipulating the polo 
stick. It is essential that the polo pony be taught 
to lead (p. 171) with either foreleg at a given sig- 



180 Training the Saddle Horse 

nal from the rider, and it is even more important 
that he be taught to stop instantly, no matter how 
fast the gait. As we have seen, much exercise in 
the outHne of the figure 8 is beneficial in teaching 
the horse to lead with either foreleg. The pony 
must stop with his head up rather than down, and 
to do this properly he should be taught to stop 
from his hind legs. When the stopping is done with 
the shoulders, the head is likely to be lowered, which 
is objectionable. 

The next step is to familiarize the pony with the 
polo stick. This can be facilitated by some such 
methods as suggested in poling (p. 69). When 
the pony shows no fear, the rider may take the stick 
in hand and with the animal at the walk, slowly, go 
through much the same motions as in playing the 
game. Gradually increase the movements of the 
stick, first in one hand and then in the other. Much 
care should be exercised never to hit the pony with 
the stick during this familiarizing work. 

When the pony is sufficiently famihar with the 
stick to permit all the strokes at the walk, continue the 
practice at the trot, and lastly at the canter. Next 
take a soft ijidia rubber ball and gently knock about 
until the pony is used to it. If perchance such a 
ball should strike the animal it will not injure or 
frighten him. In training the pony to follow the 
ball it is best to have several balls, and when the 
rider misses one he may take another. It discour- 



Training the High-school Gaits 181 

ages the pony to be constantly returning after missed 
balls. 

Now that the pony will follow the ball, you are 
ready to teach him to mix with other polo ponies. 
To do this use a pony that knows the game and begin 
at the walk. The green pony is ridden alongside 
the trained pony, with the head turned away so that 
the shoulder will be turned in toward him. The 
green pony should be encouraged to brush up against 
the other by pressure from the rider's outside leg 
(p. 157). This training must be continued on both 
sides. When the pony understands it at the walk, 
it must be repeated at the trot and at the canter. 
Next procure two well-trained ponies and accustom 
the green pony to being squeezed and bumped, at 
first gently, but increasing the roughness from day 
to day. The green pony should be made familiar 
with all of the movements likely to be met before he 
enters the practice game. 

Hi§h-school gaits. — The high-school horse is re- 
quired to do a great variety of fancy movements, 
such as the Spanish walk, the Spanish trot and simi- 
lar gaits. To illustrate the method of teaching such 
movements, we will consider the Spanish walk. This 
walk is characterized by the peculiar manner in 
which the forelegs are extended during the step. 
The foreleg is raised without bending the knee and 
extended straight out in front of the body as nearly 
parallel with the ground as possible, and held there 



182 Training the Saddle Horse 

for a brief moment until the body is brought forward, 
when it is lowered without bending the knee. Then 
the other foreleg is raised similarly. 

In teaching the Spanish walk, the first lesson is to 
train the horse to extend his foreleg to the front. 
To do this place the animal with his right side toward 
a wall, then standing in front and facing him, 
grasp the reins under the chin with the left hand, 
slightly raise the head and turn it toward the right 
side so as to relieve the weight on the left foreleg. 
Tap the horse gently on the cannon or forearm of 
the left foreleg to induce him to raise it and extend 
it to the front. Caress him for doing as you wish. 
Encourage him to extend it as far as possible. "V^Tien 
he understands that tapping the left foreleg means 
to extend it to the front, in a similar way teach him 
to extend the right foreleg. 

Having taught the horse to extend either foreleg 
at the tap of the whip, let us try the Spanish walk. 
Take your position in front as before and have him 
extend the left foreleg, bring him forward by the 
reins so that he will take a step. While he is doing 
this you must prevent him from bending the leg at 
the knee by applying the whip. Reward him for 
obeying and repeat the process with the other front 
leg. By diminishing the interval between the steps 
and by inducing him to raise his forelegs higher we 
arrive at the Spanish walk. It will take much prac- 
tice standing in front and aiding the horse by alter- 



Training Circus Tricks 183 

nately moving the head from right to left, and occa- 
sionally tapping the legs to encourage extension, in 
order to bring out this walk. Later you may mount 
the horse and by aiding with rein and whip perfect 
the gait. 

The Spanish trot is similar to the Spanish walk 
except that the movements are quickened and when 
the gait is perfected, there is a brief moment between 
each step when all four feet are off the ground, which 
gives the horse a very spectacular appearance. 
Similar methods are employed in teaching each of 
the high-school movements and gaits. 

Circus tricks. — Teaching a horse circus tricks is 
not a difficult task. The most essential things are 
tact, patience and self-control on the part of the 
horseman. The teaching of tricks is merely the 
forming of what may be called unusual habits, and 
establishing signals to excite the horse to execute 
them. The circus horse is required to do a great 
variety of these tricks, and to illustrate the method 
of training we will take a case, as teaching the horse 
to bow and shake his head, or to say "yes" and ''no," 
as the circus man puts it. 

In teaching the horse to bow or say "yes, " stand a 
little to one side and in front of him, and with a pin 
prick him slightly on the breast. The horse will 
think the slight pain was caused by a fly and will put 
his head down to frighten it away. When he makes 
the move toward his breast with his head, caress 



184 Training the Saddle Horse 

him. Repeat and caress, giving the command 
''bow" or "yes" just as you prick him. Soon he 
will go through the motion at the command alone, 
in anticipation of the caress. To teach the horse to 
shake his head or say ''no, " stand on the left side and 
with a pin prick him lightly on the crest above the 
shoulder. As before he will think this a fly, and shake 
his head to remove it. The moment he shakes his 
head caress him. Repeat and caress, giving the 
command "no" just as you prick him. Soon he 
will shake his head at the command as before, in 
anticipation of the caress. 

To illustrate another method, let us consider the case 
of teaching the horse to stand erect on his hind legs. 
To teach this trick, the surcingle and back band, 
a common bridle, and the pulley bridle (p. 193) 
should be used. Place the pulley bridle under the 
common bridle, and rein the horse up as high as con- 
venient. Take a position in front of the animal, 
hold the pulley bridle lead rope in the left hand and 
the whip in the right. Gently jerk with the lead 
rope and flick the whip in front of the horse. Repeat 
until he makes an effort to raise his front feet from 
the ground and then caress him. If he refuses to 
rise, rein his head a little higher and continue as 
before. As this trick is very hard on the muscles of 
the animal's back, it should not be continued for too 
long a time. With a little patient effort the animal 
can be taught to stand erect at the command "up." 



Training Saddle Horses for Special Work 185 

If he is a teachable one, he can be encouraged to step 
forward at the command ''come here" or ''get up." 
Should he attempt to drop on his front feet before 
commanded to do so, touch him gently under the 
chin with the whip. Not all horses can be taught 
this trick as the muscles of the back are too weak to 
permit the animals to stand erect. 



CHAPTER VI 

TRAINING WILD AND SUBDUING 
VICIOUS HORSES 

The training of stubborn, refractory and wild 
horses, or the subduing of vicious horses often calls 
for more strenuous methods than have hitherto 
been suggested. Before deciding upon the method 
to be employed, one should make a careful study of 
the horse to determine, if possible, the cause of his 
obstinacy. One source of indifference is improper 
training while young. The colt has probably had 
his nerves deadened by severe bits or some similar 
treatment. Accidents are a second source of indif- 
ference. The horse may have been well trained and 
under excellent control, but in an accident may 
have become frightened and perhaps injured, thus 
leaving a bad impression upon his mind, and under 
similar circumstances he becomes unmanageable. In 
such cases, absolute subjection by either the Rarey 
or Galvayne method will serve to bring the horse 
back under control, as he learns that man is his su- 
perior, and that if he does as commanded no injury 
is to come to him. 

186 



Nervous Disposition 187 

TEMPERAMENT IN THE HORSE 

Perhaps the greater number of wild, refractory and 
vicious horses owe their faults to inequalities of 
temper. It is therefore of much importance that 
the temperaments be studied carefully. Horses 
may be divided into four general classes according to 
their temper: teachable, nervous, stubborn and 
treacherous. The horse with a teachable temper is 
kind and docile. He is easily taught and readily 
adapts himself to various conditions. He is very 
seldom frightened, excited or provoked to bad 
habits. The horse with a nervous temperament 
is ambitious and determined. He is quick to learn 
and acts with all his power. If he is properly directed 
he rapidly develops into the best type of horse. On 
the other hand, if he is improperly directed, he is 
quickly spoiled. He is easily frightened and has a 
natural tendency to develop such habits as shying, 
running away and the like. He seldom balks, and 
when he struggles he does so with all his power. 
Though this class resists hard, it is easily conquered, 
after which it will do anything that it understands. 

The horse with a stubborn temperament is will- 
ful and difficult to conquer. He calls for patient 
effort and tact on the part of the horseman, as the 
horse of this class is persistent and does not give up. 
The horse with such a temper often becomes sullen, 
his senses seem to have become blunted and he 



188 Training Wild and Subduing Vicious Horses 

apparently has no feeling. When he is excited the 
most severe punishment may be administered and he 
will not move in the least. If he does not respond 
to the first few strokes of the whip, it is useless to 
punish him further. He must be put through the 
Rarey or Galvayne course of subjection. 

The horse with a treacherous temper is very resent- 
ful. He acts without apparent cause and when least 
expected. He may balk, fight, kick, strike, bite, 
bolt or run away. Often he seems to be conquered 
and works freely, when of a sudden all his former 
viciousness returns. The other classes, when once 
conquered, remain obedient, but not so with the 
treacherous horse. While some horses of this class 
become fairly trustworthy after long usage, they 
seldom develop into steady work horses. In fact, 
one must be prepared to repeat the subjugation 
course at any time. 

TRAINING AND SUBDUING APPLIANCES 

In educating wild, stubborn and vicious horses, 
it is often necessary to have at hand a variety of 
training appliances. To save space later on when 
describing methods, we will consider the appliances 
first. Several kinds of halters, bridles, twitches, as 
well as many kicking, hobbling and throwing rigs, are 
described, as it may be necessary to try more than 
one hitch in order to bring about the desired results. 



How to Make a Yankee Bridle 189 

Rope halter. — The simplest way to make a rope 
halter is from a soft rope about half an inch in 
diameter and about fifteen feet long. Double the 
rope at one end for about four feet, and tie a knot 
in the doubled part so as to form a large stationary 
loop about three and one half feet long. In this large 
loop make a small one for the lead rope to pass 
through. The second knot should be so tied as to 
leave one third of the large loop on one side and 
two thirds on the other, the short part to form the 
noseband, the long part the headpiece. Now place 
the free end of the rope through the small loop and 
the halter is ready for use (Fig. 42). A knot may 
be made in the lead rope under the chin to prevent 
the halter from squeezing the jaws together, other- 
wise the halter will draw tightly around the jaws. 

Yankee bridle. — To make this bridle, choose a 
soft rope three eighths of an inch in diameter and 
about twenty feet long. Tie one end of the rope 
around the horse's neck, close to the head, in such a 
way that the loop thus formed will not run. Pass 
the free end through the horse's mouth from the 
right side and up through the loop on the left side, 
and the bridle is completed (Fig. 43). The principle 
upon which this bridle acts seems to be that the 
horse obtains relief from the painful pressure of the 
rough rope on the corners of the mouth the instant 
he approaches the man who is pulling, and conse- 
quently follows to avoid the pain. 



190 Training Wild and Subduing Vicious Horses 

Yankee bridle modified. — With the right hand 
take hold of the lead rope near the horse's left jaw, 
with the left hand pass the free end of the rope over 
the head just back of the ears, down the right side. 




Fig. 42. — Rope halter. 

through the mouth again and then up the left side 
and through the portion of the rope held in the right 
hand, and you have the bridle completed (Fig. 44). 
To increase the severity of this bridle, instead of 
placing the latter rope in the mouth as a bit, place 



How to Make a War Bridle 



191 



it just under the 
upper lip and on top 
of the teeth, then 
draw tight. You now 
have one rope in the 
horse's mouth as an 
ordinary bit, and a 
second under the 
upper lip as a twitch, 
which forms a very 
efficient bridle for 
controlling refrac- 
tory horses. 

War bridle. — To 
make this bridle, 
choose a rope similar 
to the one described 
in making the Yankee 
bridle (p. 189), tie a 
small loop in one end 
just large enough to 
go in the horse's 
mouth and around 
the lower jaw. Now 
place this in the ani- 
mal's mouth as de- 
scribed, with the knot 
and free end on the 
right side, bring the 






Fig. 43. — Yankee bridle. 




Fig. 44. — Yankee bridle modified. 



192 Trainmg Wild and Subduing Vicious Horses 




Fiu. 



War bridle. 




Fig. 46. — War bridle modified. 



free end up over the 
head, down the right 
side and through the 
loop at the mouth, 
thus completing the 
bridle (Fig. 45). In 
Europe this bridle is 
often referred to as 
the Comanche bridle. 
War bridle modi- 
fied. — Pass the free 
end of the rope over 
the horse's head, just 
back of the ears, 
down the right side, 
through the mouth, 
and then through the 
part which passes 
over the head and the 
bridle is completed 
(Fig. 46). The se- 
verity of this bridle 
may be increased as 
suggested in the 
Yankee bridle modi- 
fied, by passing the 
latter rope just under 
the upper lip, thus 
forming a twitch. 



How to Make a Pulley Bridle 



193 



Many horsemen pre- 
fer this to the Yankee 
bridle because it is 
more convenient in 
arranging and re- 
moving. 

Excelsior bridle. — 
This bridle is made 
in exactly the same 
way as the war bridle 
modified, except that 
the first rope, instead 
of being placed over 
the head immedi- 
ately back of the 
ears, is arranged well 
down on the neck, al- 
most halfway to the 
withers (Fig. 47). 
This bridle is very 
effective in causing a 
horse to lower his 
head in case he in- 
sists on holding it up 
when teaching to 
take the bit. 

Pulley bridle. — In 
addition to the rope, 
two rings and a 
o 




Fig. 47. — Excelsior bridle. 




Fig. 4S. — Pulley bridle. 



194 Training Wild and Subduing Vicious Horses 



pulley are needed in making this bridle. Secure a 
short piece of rope and weave the two rings in so 
that when completed they will be about six inches 



apart, and you have a rope 
a common rubber-covered bit. 



1^»-. 


^^SKmsijt, 






'JaEmS^^r 


^.^^k 


"■/F 


^H 


^*^' 


¥^ 



Fig. 49. — Pulley bridle with three rings. 



bit very similar to 
With another piece 
of rope, weave one 
end to one of the 
rings, and the other 
end to the eye of the 
pulley, so that when 
completed it will 
be about eighteen 
inches from ring to 
pulley. Perhaps this 
should be measured 
on the animal's head, 
as the pulley should 
be about even with 
the left eye when the 
bridle is in position 
on the head. Now 



weave one end of the lead rope to the other ring. 
Place the rope bit in the horse's mouth with the lead 
rope on the left and the pulley rope on the right side, 
carry the latter over the head just back of the ears 
and hold the pulley on the left side of the head while 
you slip the free end of the lead rope through it; next 
pass the lead rope down through the ring on the left 
side and the bridle is complete (Fig. 48) . This makes 



Combined Bridle and Twitch 



195 



a very efficient bridle for controlling stubborn and re- 
fractory horses. Sometimes this bridle is made by 
using a third ring instead of a pulley (Fig. 49). 

Pulley bridle modified. — In making this bridle, 
neither rings nor pulley are used. Use a rope sim- 
ilar to that suggested in making the Yankee bridle 
(p. 189), and tie a 
small loop in one end 
and insert in the 
horse's mouth as in 
thewarbridle(p.l91). 
Now carry the free 
end over the head 
two inches back of 
the ears and down, 
the left side just a 
little below the eye; 
with the right hand 
hold the rope here, 
and with the left 
double the free end back over the head again imme- 
diately back of the ears, carry the free end down the 
right side and through the mouth, then up and through 
the rope you are holding with the right hand, then 
down through the loop in the mouth, and the bridle 
is completed (Fig. 50). As with the other modified 
bridles, the severity of this one can be. greatly in- 
creased by placing the last rope just under the upper 
lip, thus making a twitch, 




Fig. 50. — Pulley bridle modified. 



196 Training Wild and Subduing Vicious Horses 



Hackamore bridle. — To make an Indian Hackamore, 
take a soft, three-eighths inch rope about twenty 
feet long, tie a rimning loop in one end, put it around 
the horse's neck just back of the ears, pull the loop 
open, and with the part with which the loop is made 

take a half-hitch 
about his nose. Now 
with the free end 
make a second half- 
hitch about the nose. 
Grasp the middle of 
the second hitch 
where it passes over 
the nose and run it 
through the first 
hitch twice, pulling it 
out far enough to 
pass over the head. 
This completes the 
Hackamore bridle as 
made by some, while 
others pass the latter 
rope twice around 
the rope already at the top of the head and bring it 
out around the forehead, making a brow band. This 
makes a substantial hitch, and is much used by the 
Indians, Mexicans and plainsmen (Fig. 51). 

Cavesson holier. — This consists of a common 
leather halter with a heavy, leather-covered noseband 




Fici. 51. — Hackamore bridle. 



How to Make a Twitch 



197 



made of metal to which the lead rem is attached so 
as to inflict blows on the nose by light jerking. While 
this appliance is much used in Europe, especially 
in the riding-schools, its use is not recommended, as 
it often renders the horse difficult to handle about 
the face and head. 
Better results can be 
obtained from some 
form of twitch. 

Lip-twitch. — This 
is made by tying a 
loop in a small rope, 
such as sash-cord, 
through a hole in the 
end of a stick. The 
loop should be about 
nine inches long, 
while the stick may 
be from one to five 
feet long, according 
to convenience. The 
loop is slipped over 
the upper lip of the horse, and the stick, which forms 
the handle, twisted until his attention is attracted. 
As the horse's lip. is very sensitive, the twitch should 
not be used more frequently nor tighter than is 
necessary. 

Noose-twitch. — To make this twitch, use a small 
rope, such as sash-cord, and at one end tie a small 




Fiu. 



Noose-twitch. 



198 Training Wild and Subduing Vicious Horses 



stationary loop. With the right hand hold this loop 
on the left side of the horse's head, and with the left 
hand place the free end of the rope over the head 
just back of the ears, down the right side and in the 
mouth just under the upper lip and on top of the 
teeth, and then up through the loop being held in the 

right hand, and the 
twitch is completed 
(Fig. 52). 

In case the horse is 
very wild, it will re- 
quire some manipu- 
lation to get this 
twitch in place. One 
can often facilitate 
the work by employ- 
ing a crooked stick, 
especially if the horse 
strikes or bites at the 
operator. 

Halter-twitch. — To 
make this twitch, use 
the rope halter described (p. 189), or any common rope 
halter; with the right hand hold the lead rope close 
to the halter, and with the left hand pass the free end 
over the head just back of the ears and down the right 
side, through the mouth just under the upper lip and 
then up around the rope in the right hand, and the 
twitch is complete (Fig. 53). This makes a very 




Fig. 53. — Halter-twitch. 



Halter and Twitch Combined 



199 



convenient and efficient appliance for leading and 
handling a refractory horse. 

Headstall-twitch. — This twitch is made from a 
common leather halter by passing the lead rope 
through the lower ring of the halter on the left side 
of the head, then over 
the top of the head 
just back of the ears, 
down the right side 
and through the 
mouth under the 
upper lip and then 
up through the upper 
ring on the left side. 
This makes a very 
powerful twitch. In 
case the lead rope is 
not sufficiently long 
to go over the head, 
a fair twitch can be 
made by placing the 
lead rope through the 
lower ring on the 

right side of the head, then down and through the 
mouth, under the upper lip, then up through the lower 
ring on the left side of the head, and the twitch is 
completed, though this is not so efficient as where the 
rope passes over the head, and the rope extends to 
the upper ring of the halter (Fig. 54). 




Fig. 54. — Headstall-twitch. 



200 Training Wild and Subduing Vicious Horses 

Bridle-twitch. — In making this twitch, the right 
snaffle-rein is passed under the upper hp and drawn 
tightly to the left side. This is often employed in 
training the horse to stand quietly after he has been 
bridled, and while you mount. 

Rearing-twitch. — This twitch is suggested for the 
horse that rears in the saddle. Secure a small rope 
the size of a sash-cord and about ten feet long, tie a 
knot in it about six inches from one end and draw it 
tightly, tie another knot about six inches from the 
first, but leave it open. Pass the knotted end of the 
rope through the horse's mouth, and bring it around 
the lower jaw and pass through the open knot, and 
work it up tightly against the lower jaw. Pass the 
free end back through the breast-plate, if there is one 
attached to the saddle, then between the forelegs, 
through a ring arranged in the middle of the girth, 
and then up to the right hand, or the end may be 
secured to the saddle. Now when the horse shows an 
inclination to rear, immediately pull the cord. 

Wooden-gag. — This gag is made from a block of 
hard wood, five or six inches long, and about two 
inches square. The corners should be rounded to 
prevent severe injury. A hole is bored through the 
center, longways, for a chain which is attached to a 
headstall. Some persons tack leather guards on each 
end to prevent the horse from getting the gag out of 
his mouth. This gag is used to prevent the horse 
from biting, and for curing him of the habit. 



A Lead Rope 



201 



The guy rope. — This is a lead rope for controlling 
wild, refractory and vicious horses. To make it, 
use a soft, three-eighths inch rope about twenty feet 
long and make a small stationary loop in one end. 
Place this loop under the left jaw, carrying the free 
end over the neck 
from right to left, 
then down the left 
side of the head 
through the loop and 
to the mouth, then 
through the mouth, 
back under the lower 
jaw, and between the 
jaw and the rope 
coming from the 
neck, thus forming a 
loop around the neck, 
and a half-hitch 
around the jaw (Fig. 
55). This makes a very efficient lead, though it 
should never be used in prolonged pulls, but in short, 
quick jerks. 

Combination bridle. — To make this, choose a small 
rope or sash-cord about thirty feet long, put the 
middle of it in the horse's mouth, pass both ends up 
toward the forehead, knotting them in front and a 
little above the eyes (some slip the foretop in this 
knot before drawing tight), pass both free ends over 




Fig. 55. — Guy rope. 



202 Training Wild and Subduing Vicious Horses 

the head between the ears and bring one end down 
either side just back of the jaws, twist the ropes 
together, then bring each end forward and around the 
rope in the mouth, one on either side; next pass the 
free ends back through the rings in the surcingle, 
and then carry them on back behind the horse-, and 
you have a very efficient combination bridle and 
lines for controlling a wild horse (Fig. 56). 

Kicking strap. — This is used to prevent the horse 
from kicking when in the shafts. It is made from 
leather, which always should be of the very best and 
should not be less than two inches wide, and of such 
length as will reach from one shaft over the horse's 
rump to the other shaft (Fig. 17). When the strap 
is fixed in its keepers there should be practically no 
play in the strap between the shafts and the rump 
of the horse. 

Kicking reins. — These reins are useful in control- 
ling the horse that bucks as well as the one that kicks. 
To make them, secure two small ropes or sash-cords 
about eighteen feet long. Put an overdraw check on 
the horse with a ring just back of the ears. Take 
one of the small ropes, tie one end in the ring on the 
overcheck just back of the ears, pass the free end 
down through the ring at the top of the surcingle, 
then forward and through the ring of the bridle bit, 
then back through the ring on the side of the sur- 
cingle. Put the other rope on the other side in a 
similar manner. These cords can be used as lines, 



204 Training Wild and Subduing Vicious Horses 

and they are very effective, particularly on the horse 
that has a tendency to get his head down against 
his breast, thus making it impossible to control him 
with ordinary lines. If the animal attempts to buck 
or kick, pull on the cords, thus raising his head and 
preventing him from either kicking or bucking, as 
he cannot do either without lowering his head. As 
these reins are very severe, they should never be 
used with more force than is necessary to secure 
obedience. 

Kicking harness. — To make this harness, it is 
necessary to have a very substantial overdraw 
check provided with a ring just back of the ears, 
two pulleys and a small rope. The pulleys should 
be secured to the shafts, one on either side, about 
where the kicking strap is fastened. Attach the 
rope over the rump similar to the kicking strap. 
Pass the free ends of the rope down through the pulley 
on either shaft, then up through the ferrets at the 
saddle, and attach to the ring in overdraw check 
just back of the ears. If the horse attempts to kick 
in this harness, he jerks his head up, thus preventing 
him from kicking, as he cannot kick without lowering 
his head. This is a very effective harness for curing 
chronic kickers, as they are punished each time they 
attempt to kick. 

Self -punishing harnesses. — "V^Tiile there are many 
methods of arranging self-punishing harness, per- 
haps the following is as simple and efficient as any. 



Self-correcting Harness 



205 



Choose a sash-cord or soft quarter-inch rope about 
twelve feet long, a soft three-eighths inch rope about 
six feet long, a hght pulley, four straps one inch wide 
and about two feet long, and two rings two inches 
in diameter. Place the long rope through the eye 
of the pulley and the short rope through the pulley 




Fig. 57. — Self-punishing harness. 



itself. Draw the short rope backward from the front 
under the girth so the pulley will rest just back of the 
girth (Fig. 57). Buckle the straps above and below 
the hocks and through the rings; tie, by half -hitches, 
the short rope into these rings. Next grasp the ends 
of the small rope, pass each to the rings of the bridle 
bit, at either side, passing through the rings from the 
outside, then pass the small ropes up over the head, 



206 Training Wild and Subduing Vicious Horses 

under the head-stall of the bridle, then down the 
opposite side and fasten to the bridle rings by a half- 
hitch, so that the rope can be easily unfastened no 
matter how tightly it may be drawn. If there is 
danger that the straps will slip down over the hocks, 
they should be supported by a light strap placed over 
the rump and down to the hock on either side. 

When this harness is properly made of substantial 
material, it may be used to correct many bad habits, 
such as kicking, rearing, bolting, running, and the 
like. Should a horse kick in such a harness, the rope 
over the head draws the bit up into the angles of the 
mouth and holds it there until relieved bj^ the trainer. 
This should be done gently and with patience. The 
advantage of such a harness is that the horse deals 
out his own punishment at the instant he violates 
his master's will. 

Hobbles. — These are used to prevent the horse 
from kicking. They are often used on a mare at time 
of service to prevent her from kicking the stallion. 
To make the hobble, use a soft rope one inch in 
diameter, and about eighteen feet long, four straps 
about one and one half inches wide and two feet long, 
and two rings two inches in diameter. Double the 
rope at the middle and tie a knot forming a stationary 
loop about three feet long. Buckle the straps 
above and below the hocks and through the 
rings. Now place the large loop over the horse's 
head and slip it back to the shoulders much as a 



How to Make Hobbles 



207 



collar, pass the free ends between the forelegs and 
tie off in the rings at the hocks by half-hitches, thus 
completing the hobbles (Fig. 58). As buckling the 
straps about the hock entails much risk, it is a better 
plan to have the rings sewed to the straps, which 




Fig. 58. — Hobbles. 

calls for four rings instead of two, the ends of each 
pair of straps being attached to a ring and the rope 
passing through both rings on either pair. 

Rarey's leg-strap. — This is a strong strap used for 
fastening up a horse's foreleg. It should be approxi- 
mately three feet long, two inches wide and at one end 
of it there should be attached a heavy buckle with a 



208 Training Wild and Subduing Vicious Horses 

keeper. Now place a free running keeper on the 
strap and the leg strap is completed. To adjust the 
strap, pass it around the pastern of the horse and 
through the running keeper. Then draw the fore- 
leg up until the heel touches the elbow, pass the 
free end of the strap around the forearm, then 




I'u 



jy. — Kan 



safety. 



through the buckle, and draw tight. The horse is 
now unable to get his front foot to the ground and 
must walk about on three legs. As a cautionar}^ 
measure it is a good plan to put on a soft knee-pad, 
otherwise should the horse come down on his knee 
he may injure it permanently. 

Rareifs safety harness. — This harness was devised 
by Rarey for use in training wild, stubborn and 



210 Training Wild and Subduing Vicious Horses 

vicious horses. There are two forms, the single and 
the double safety; in the former one front leg only is 
under restraint, while in the latter both front legs are 
under control. This harness consists of two straps 
about one foot long and fitted with D-shaped rings, 
a surcingle fitted with two rings on the belly, three 
on either side and one over the saddle and a long rope 




Fig. 61. — Rarey's single safety, restraining one foreleg. 

(Figs. 59 and 60). The straps are buckled around 
the front pasterns and the surcingle around .the body. 
The straps should be padded to protect the pasterns 
in case the animal struggles, and the knees should 
also be provided with pads. In arranging the double 
safety, one end of the rope is passed through the ring 
at the belly, then down and through the ring at the 
left pastern, then up to and through the other ring 



212 Training Wild and Subduing Vicious Horses 

at the belly, then down and through the ring at the 
right pastern, then up and tied off at one of the rings 
at the right side. Now by taking hold of the free end. 
of the rope we have the harness as illustrated (Fig. 60). 
In case the horse is difficult to manage, put on the 
guy rope in addition (p. 201). Should he begin to 




Fig. 63. — Rarey's double safety, horso on knees. 



rear, bolt or back, pull on the safety rope and restrain 
his forelegs (Fig. 62). If he continues to act up, 
pull his forelegs up by a jerk on the safety rope, and 
he will come down on his knees (Fig. 63). A few 
hard falls will usually teach the most incorrigible, 
as such is a very humiliating position. 

Rarey's throwing harness. — In the case of some 
vicious horses it is necessary to lay them on the 



214 Training Wild and Subduing Vicious Horses 

ground to teach them that man is their master. 
Rarey also devised a harness to accomphsh this. 
It is practically the same as the safety harness, 
with the addition of a heavy strap similar to the 
Rarey leg-strap, which is attached to the surcingle 




Fig. 65. — Rarey's throwing harness, first position. 

on the left side. The surcingle is put on as before 
and the strap buckled about the right pastern only. 
One end of the rope is tied in the ring at the belly, 
the free end passed through the ring at the right 
pastern, then the rope is passed up through one of 



Throwing the Horse 



215 



the rings on the right side, then on up and over the 
back, and the harness is completed (Fig. 64). 

When ready to throw the horse, first strap up the 
left foreleg (Fig. 65). Next have the assistant lead 
the horse a step forward and as he lifts his foot 
draw it up against the breast by pulling on the rope 
(Fig. 66). Pull steadily on the rope; if the horse rears, 




Fig. UG. — Rarey's throwiiifj; liaruoss, second position. 

keep his foot drawn up and he will come down on 
his knees, when to lay him down is simply a matter of 
pushing him over (Fig. 67). Keep pulling on the 
rope, otherwise he may surprise you by quickly 
jumping to his feet. While in this position you can 
do anything you like. Shoot fire crackers, guns, rat- 
tle cans, run up to him with an automobile or trac- 
tion engine or the like. He soon learns that if he 



216 Training Wild and Subduing Vicious Horses 

remains perfectly quiet he will not be injured. 
Many excellent horsemen put all horses through 
this course, as it tends to make them steady in case 
of an accident. 

Rope throwing. — There are two common rope 




Fig. 67. — Rarcy's throwing harness, third position. 

hitches used in throwing the horse. In one the 
rope only is used, while in the other, two straps, 
about one foot long and provided with buckle and 
ring, are needed. In the first method take a long 
rope, double it at the middle and tie a knot forming 
a loop about three feet long. Slip this loop over the 



218 Training Wild and Subduing Vicious Horses 

head and down to the shoulder, similar to a col- 
lar. Pass the free ends down between the front 
legs, back and around the hind pasterns from the 
outside, then up and through the loop at the horse's 
shoulder. Three men are needed to use this appli- 
ance, two to pull the rope, one at either end and one 
to hold the horse (Fig. 68). When ready let the 
two men holding the rope pull vigorously, which 
draws the horse's hind feet under him, and when he 
goes down let the man at the head hold it firmly 
on the ground, as a horse with his head flat cannot 
get up. The objection to this method of throwing 
is that the ropes may burn the hind pasterns as the 
hind legs are being drawn forward. 

In the second hitch secure a short rope about five 
or six feet long, tie a large loop to slip over the 
horse's head and down to the shoulders as in the 
first hitch. Buckle the straps around the hind 
pasterns. Tie a rope around each fore pastern, pass 
the free ends back and through the rings at the 
hind pasterns, then up and through the loop at the 
shoulders, one on either side, and then backward 
(Fig. 69). This hitch requires three men, as in the 
first, two to pull the rope, one at either end, and 
one at the head. When ready have the men pull 
strongly on the ropes, which pulls the horse's fore 
and hind feet together and he goes down. The in- 
stant he goes down the man at the head should 
hold it flat as in the first hitch. This has the ad- 



Gahayne's Tail-rope 



219 



vantage that there is no danger of burning the pas- 
terns joints with the ropes. 

Galvayne's training harness. — This consists simply 
of an apphance for tying the horse's head and tail to- 
gether so that he will go round and round until he 
goes down or becomes steady. It was devised by 




Fig. 69. — Rope and ring throwing harness. 

Galvayne, and consists of a tail-rope provided with 
a loop or snap so as to be readily attached to the 
halter or lead strap. There are several ways of 
securing the tail-rope to the tail. Where the tail 
is provided with long hairs it may be tied up in the 
ordinary way and the tail-rope tied into the loop 
similar to Fig. 88. If the tail has been docked or 



220 Training Wild and Subduing Vicious Horses 



contains few hairs, this cannot be done. When 
such is the case, grasp the tail-rope, double it at the 
middle and pass it around under the tail from left 
to right, and through the doubled part. Pass it 
down the tail two inches, 




then back around from 
right to left and under 
the rope that extends 
downward, and you have 
a tie that will not slip if 
properly attached (Fig. 
70). This rope may be 
provided with a snap 
which may be snapped 
directly into the halter 
ring, or in the absence of 
the snap it may be tied 
to the halter (Fig. 71). 
This is a very effective 
appliance for subduing 
vicious horses. 

The difficulty with this 
harness comes when we 
approach the vicious horse's hind quarters to arrange 
the tail-rope, as he is likely to kick. To avoid this 
danger take hold of the halter with the left hand, 
near the head, and by pulling the head toward you 
swing the horse round aud round, making yourself 
the center around which the horse revolves. A few 



Fig. 70. 



Method of securing rope 
to tail. 



Subduing Appliances 



221 



sharp turns will stupefy him, when the cord may be 
looped about the tail with perfect safety, providing 
you keep the head turned well toward you. 

Shackles. — These are sometimes used in train- 
ing wild western horses. This appliance consists of 
a strong ring about four inches in diameter, to which 
are welded four 
strong chains 
about eighteen 
inches long and 
provided with 
heavy straps, 
well protected, 
at the other ends 
to buckle around 
the horse's pas- 
terns. The wild 
horse is snared 
(p. 225), thrown, 
bound, and the 
shackles buckled 
to his pasterns, 
and then he is 
released and left alone to thrash it out with the shack- 
les until he calms. This appliance should be made 
very strong, and the straps going around the pasterns 
should be well protected, otherwise the horse will in- 
jure himself. 

Straight-jacket. — This appliance is also used in 




Fig. 71. — The Gulvaync appliance in use. 



222 Training Wild and Subduing Vicious Horses 

training wild and vicious horses. It consists of a 
strong breast-band and breeching provided with 
a heavy ring on either side and supported by two 




Fig. 72. — The straight-jacket. This appliance must be made very 

strong. 



straps, one passing over the back at the withers, the 
other in front of the hips. The breast-band is 
lowered, passing around the forelegs close to the 
chest, while the breeching is lowered, passing around 
the hind legs below the quarters, At first the breast- 



Training the Wild or Stubborn Horse 223 

band and the breeching on either side are drawn 
tight and secured by a strong strap or rope passing 
from breast-band to the breeching. In this harness 
the horse can make but slow progress, and this by 
low and very fatiguing jumps. He is now turned 
loose to get used to the restraining harness, which 
he usually does in about one quarter of an hour. 
After the horse has calmed, some persons take a long 
rope, secure it in the ring on one side of the breech- 
ing, say the left, then pass the free end forward and 
through the ring on the left side of the breast-band, 
and back through the ring at the breeching. Next 
remove the straps, securing the breast-band and 
breeching on the left side. Now the horse can 
walk, but if he should begin to jump around, all they 
have to do is pull on the rope, which compels him 
to make the short, tiresome jumps as before (Fig. 72). 

TRAINING THE WILD OR STUBBORN HORSE 

Having considered the more important and more 
useful appliances used in training wild, refractory 
and stubborn horses we will pass at once to the 
education of these classes of animals. 

Catching a wild horse. — When it comes to train- 
ing the wild horse, the first thing, of course, is to get 
hold of him and to get our training appHance at- 
tached. While cowboys and ranchmen do this with 
the lasso, only a few of us can manipulate a rope so 



Snaring a Wild Horse 225 

dexterously, and besides, the method is not consid- 
ered a good one by horse trainers generally, as it often 
results in injury to the animal. To catch the wild 
horse, drive him into a small inclosure. It is a very 
easy matter to drive a wild horse if gentle horses 
are turned loose with the wild one and all are driven 
together. Secure a soft, three-eighths inch rope and 
tie a running loop in one end. Enter the inclosure 
with the horse. He will try to get away by running 
to the farthest corner, and as you walk in one direction 
he will walk in another. Place the loop upon the 
ground and walk the horse around until he steps 
into it with his left front foot (Fig. 73). Pull the 
rope quickly, so that it will slip up to the pastern, 
and then hold fast. When the horse feels the rope 
on his pastern he will try to shake it off, but do not 
let him, for once he gets it off he will spend half his 
time thereafter trying to get it off again. Pull his 
foot toward you and do not let him put it down 
squarely, but make him put it down eight to ten 
inches from where it would be normally. If he re- 
fuses by shaking his head and running about, do not 
punish him, but pull his foot again. After a time 
he will become tired and place his foot at the place 
you have selected. 

After the horse becomes submissive to having 
his foot pulled about, approach him and put your 
hand on his shoulder, but not on his head. If he 
refuses to let you touch his shoulder, pull on the 



226 Training Wild and Subduing Vicious Horses 

rope. If he struggles, pass behind him, bring the 
rope up over his back and pull his left foot off' the 
ground (Fig. 74). He will soon see that he must 
choose between having your hand on his shoulder 
and his foot off the ground. As soon as he becomes 




Fig. 74. — Gentling a loose horse. 



submissive to having his shoulder handled, take a 
position standing on his left again, gather up the 
rope, keeping it tight all the time, so the horse can- 
not get it off, and throw it over his back. When the 
rope goes over his back he will run out from under 
it, but pull on the foot as before. Again he must 
choose between having the rope over his back and 



Haltering a Wild Horse 227 

having his foot drawn out from under him. While 
the horse is doing this running about, you stand in the 
center of the inclosure and keep him on the outside. 
When he will permit the rope over his back, bring 
the free end under his body, and pass it in front of 
the perpendicular rope leading to the foot. This 
is important. If you pass the free end behind the 
rope leading to the foot and the horse should suc- 
ceed at any time in getting in front of you, it would 
pull off over his tail and you would have to begin 
over again. 

Now you have a hitch somewhat similar to the 
single safety (p. 208). If the horse starts to act up, 
to calm him pull the rope which holds up one front 
foot. As soon as he quiets let the foot down. He 
rapidly learns that he must choose between stand- 
ing quiet and having his foot drawn up. As he 
does not like to have his foot suspended he will let 
you caress him, when he may be haltered without 
risk. 

Haltering a loose horse. — The precautions neces- 
sary to be taken in haltering a loose horse will de- 
pend on his vice. A good plan for haltering one not 
too wild is as follows. Drive him into a small square 
inclosure. Have a long pole and enter the inclosure 
with him. He will, of course, rush into the farthest 
corner and try to get away. When he is measur- 
ably quiet, touch him gently on the crest with the 
long stick ; as a horse likes to have the top of the 



228 Training Wild and Subduing Vicious Horses 

neck rubbed, this has a quieting effect. Soon he 
will let you place the pole anywhere along his neck. 
Take the rope halter described (p. 189), twist the 
chin piece three times around the end of the pole, 
and the lead rope two or three times around to pre- 




FiG. 75. — Haltering a loose horse, first position. 

vent it hanging too low. Now bring the crown- 
piece of the halter behind the ears while holding the 
end of the- pole slightly above the forehead (Fig. 75). 
Rapidly bring the pole down in front of the horse's 
nose and then under the lower jaw, which brings 
the halter into its proper place (Fig. 76). The horse 



Handling a Wild Horse 



229 



will run to another corner, when he should be quieted 
with the pole again by caressing the top of the neck. 
Some recommend tying the lead rope to a chunk, 
and permitting the horse to drag it around on the 
assumption that it aids in teaching him to lead. 
Gentling the wild horse. — After catching the 
horse and before proceeding further, it is necessary to 




Fig. 7G. — Haltering a loose horse, second position. 

make him gentle to being handled. If the horse is a 
wild one, this may require tact and patience, par- 
ticularly to get him to submit to pressure along the 
back of the forelegs, the front of the hind legs and 
along the abdomen, as such parts are very sensi- 
tive. The method to be pursued will depend on the 
temper of the horse. If he will submit to having 
the top of his neck rubbed with a long pole, the 



230 Training Wild and Subduing Vicious Horses 

method may be much simpHfied (p. 50). If he 
resents all efforts while standing, then he should be 
thrown, bound and the shackles (p. 221) attached, 
when he may be released and left to worry himself 
fighting the appliance. When he gives in, caress 
him along the neck. As soon as he will let you, 
offer him a dainty, as a carrot, apple, potato, or 
sweets of some kind. At first, do not touch his ab- 
domen or legs, but work with his neck and body. 
Caress him often and he will soon learn that you do 
not mean to hurt him. Keep at this until he be- 
comes submissive. The next day repeat the entire 
process if need be. As this is the first lesson it is 
important that the wild horse thoroughly understand 
it before proceeding further. Take extra care to 
see that the shackles are strong and well protected, so 
as not to injure the animal's pasterns. Everything 
possible must be done to teach him that no harm 
is to come to him if he obeys, therefore the harness 
must not chafe his legs. 

If preferred, either the Rarey or the Galvayne 
method may be used in the gentling process. The 
left front foot may be snared and held up, the throw- 
ing harness arranged (p. 212) and the horse laid on 
the ground. Begin at once to gentle him by rubbing 
his crest and giving sweets as soon as he will take 
them. After he becomes docile let him up and handle 
him standing. If he resists, lay him down again and 
begin over. Soon he will understand that he must 



Leading a Wild Horse 231 

choose between permitting you to handle him 
while standing, and being laid on the ground to be 
handled while down. If it is desired to use the 
Galvayne method, snare the foreleg and hold it up 
as before, while you arrange the tail-rope and at- 
tach it to the lead-strap (p. 219). Now let the 
horse loose and he will go round and round until 
he becomes stupefied. Then handle the crest, and 
caress as before. When he becomes docile remove 
the tail-rope, but continue to handle him. If he 
resists, replace the tail-rope and let him go around 
again. After a few repetitions he will understand 
what is wanted, and will stand quietly while you 
handle any part of his body. 

Teaching the wild horse to lead. — If the horse 
will not respond to any of the methods suggested 
heretofore (pp. 37 and 52), but bucks, rears, runs 
or balks, then more severe methods must be adopted. 
Above all things do not punish him. If he fights 
the halter, tie the lead-rope to a heavy chunk and 
let him worry himself until he ceases to resist. 
Then place the guy rope (p. 201), to be held by an 
assistant, on his head and attach the double safety 
(p. 208). Now if he rears, bucks, runs forward or 
backward, pull his front feet up with the double 
safety and let him come down on his knees. Af- 
ter a few hard falls he will stop running and buck- 
ing, but may balk. Do not lose your temper and 
punish him, but let the assistant quickly take a po- 



232 Training Wild and Subduing Vicious Horses 

sition ten or fifteen feet in front of the horse and 
give a sharp jerk on the guy rope (Fig. 60). Never 
pull the guy rope steadily. At the jerk the horse 
will move forward, and if he goes along nicely have 
the assistant walk in front, and do not trouble his 
legs with the safety. If at any time he acts up, 
pull him to his knees, or if he balks, have the as- 
sistant jerk him forward with the guy rope. 

If the horse seems very active and you find it nec- 
essary to pull him to his knees more than you think 
best, remove the safety and place the tail-rope 
(p. 219) on him and let him go round and round until 
he becomes stupefied. Release his head, replace 
the double safety and continue as before. If the 
horse is very game, put the throwing harness (p. 212) 
on him and give him a few hard falls. After a few 
hard falls, after being stupefied by the Galvayne 
method a few times, and after being pulled to his 
knees several times, the most vicious of horses will 
get the idea that they must follow where you wish 
or sufTer accordingly. Do not be too severe in this 
work, and when the horse does as you wish caress 
him. Be firm, give him to understand that you are 
his master and that he must do as you command, but 
when he does obey be equally as sure to give him some 
evidence of your pleasure. 

Sometimes it is quite a struggle, but the horse con- 
quered in this way usually gives right up and sel- 
dom causes further trouble. It is well, however, 



Driving a Wild Horse 233 

to continue the use of the double safety for a time, 
to be prepared to meet any emergency, since occa- 
sionally such a horse does act up without giving 
warning even after going nicely. Do not rush 
through this part of the training, but give the horse 
sufficient time to adjust himself to the new conditions. 
As soon as he gets the idea that you are his friend 
and that no harm is to come to him, the victory is 
half won. 

Teaching the wild horse the uses of the hit and to 
drive with lines. — The stubborn, refractory and 
wild horse should be taught the uses of the bit much 
the same as suggested for the work horse (p. 56) 
modifying the method to meet the needs of each 
.individual. Use a bridle with a mild bit in connec- 
tion with the bitting harness. If the horse fightfe 
the bit, do not use a severe one, as is the usual prac- 
tice, but try a bitless bridle for a time. x\fter a few 
lessons in the bitting-harness and bitless bridle, try 
the mild bit again. Soon he will cease to fight it. 
Patience on the part of the horseman is the prin- 
cipal requirement in training a wild horse. 

After the horse becomes familiar with the bit, the 
side-reins of the bitting-harness may be substituted 
for lines preparatory to driving and teaching the 
commands. If the horse promises to give trouble, 
place the double safety (p. 208) on him before at- 
tempting to drive him, so as to be prepared to steady 
him should he attempt to act up. Have an assistant 



234 Training Wild and Subduing Vicious Horses 

manage the safety rope. Now teach the commands 
as suggested (p. 65). If the animal rears, bucks or 
runs either forward or backward, pull him to his 
knees with the safety. If he balks, do not punish 
him, but put the guy rope (p. 201) on under the bridle, 
and while you manage the safety rope and lines 
have the assistant jerk him forward. If he is very 
game and fights too long, remove the harness and 
attach the tail-rope (p. 219), and let him go round and 
round until he becomes stupefied. Release his head, 
replace the bitting harness and double safety, and 
continue with the commands. With the wild horse 
it is very important that he thoroughly understand 
the uses of the bit and the commands before attempt- 
in|r to hitch to a vehicle. 

■[ 'Teaching the wild horse to drive in harness. — After 
the horse becomes perfectly familiar with the uses 
of the bit and obedient to the commands, he should 
be harnessed preparatory to hitching. In rendering 
him submissive to the harness he should fii'st be 
poled (p. 69). If he resists, attach the double 
safety (p. 208), pull him to his knees and continue 
the poling process, or if preferred, attach the tail- 
rope (p. 219) and let him go round and round until 
he becomes stupefied, and then continue with the 
pole as before. As soon as he becomes familiar with 
the pressure of the pole, harness him. If he bites, 
strikes or kicks, use the appliance suggested (p. 25 i 
and 292), in order to overcome such habits. It is 



Hitching a Wild Horse 



235 



often a good plan to remove the harness and replace 
it, until he becomes submissive to being harnessed. 
After harnessing and before hitching drive him 
about, guiding him to the right and left and putting 
him through the various commands. Next famiUarize 
him with the shafts (p. 77). Then attach the double 




Fig. 77. 



■Method of arranging the double safety when hitched to a 
vehicle. 



safety and hitch him to the rig (Fig. 77). If he 
promises to give trouble it is well to attach the guy 
rope (p. 201) under the bridle and have an assistant 
manage the rope. Now if he acts up pull him to his 
knees, or if he balks, do not punish him but have the 
assistant jerk him forward with the guy rope. If 
he offers to kick attach one of the kicking appliances 
(p. 202), or better still, attach the appliance at the 



236 Training Wild and Subduing Vicious Horses 

time of hitching, so as to be prepared to meet any 
emergency that may arise. If one has a training 
cart provided with long shafts and the appUance 
properly arranged, he is prepared to offset anything 
the horse may attempt. If he rears, bucks or runs 
either forward or backward, pull him to his knees; 
if he balks, have the assistant jerk him forward; if 
he attempts to kick, the kicking appliance will re- 
strain him, and if he lies down, the shafts are so long 
that no injury is likely to result. 

If the horse is very game and fights incessantly, 
unhitch, remove the harness, then attach the tail- 
rope and let him go round and round. If this ap- 
pliance has been appHed about two times previous 
to this, keep him going round and round until he 
drops. Now begin over again, taking the same pre- 
caution as before. If he insists on lying. down, at- 
tach the throwing harness (p. 212) instead of tha 
tail-rope and give him several severe falls. Then 
continue as before. Such treatment will bring the 
most incorrigible animal under subjection. He 
will understand soon that it is useless to resist, as 
you are using his own strength to steady him. It 
is only in very rare cases that two or three such 
lessons at most will not serve to subdue the horse. 

This work should be continued daily for some 
months, even though the horse does seem perfectly 
obedient. It is necessary to teach these lessons 
very thoroughly. The horse has been running wild 



Training a Wild Horse to Noise 237 

up to this age, perhaps he has seldom seen man and 
then only to be punished or injured by him, as in 
corralhng, branding and castrating. During the 
animal's wild life he has learned to look upon man 
as his greatest enemy and it may require much time 
and patient effort to gain his confidence. After he 
becomes perfectly obedient in single harness, hitch 
him double, much as suggested (p. 84), with such 
alterations as are necessary to insure safety. 

Training the wild horse to unfamiliar objects and 
to noise. — While in general the wild horse is not so 
difficult to bring under subjection by the methods 
herein described, he is, as a rule, very sensitive to un- 
familiar objects and to noise, though occasionally 
one will find a wild horse that seems to fear no objects 
other than men and dogs. In training the wild, 
refractory or stubborn horse to objects of fear, pursue 
much the same course as suggested in training the 
work horse (p. 85). If he resists, attach the double 
safety (p. 208) and pull him to his knees as he begins 
to act up, but continue with the noise as suggested. 
If preferred, one may attach the tail-rope (p. 219) 
and continue the noise as the horse goes round and 
round. Do not rush through the work, but give the 
animal ample time to become familiar with the 
racket. It may be necessary to begin the noise in 
the distance and gradually approach him, exercising 
due care when the sound is to the rear, as he cannot 
see its source. 



238 Training Wild and Subduing Vicious Horses 



If the horse continues to resist when the noise 
approaches him, attach the throwing harness (p. 212) 
and lay him down. Then begin the noise again, 
moving round and round him, but gradually coming 
nearer, until at last the noise is over his body (Fig. 78) . 
During this time it is necessary for the man holding 




Fig. 78. — Familiarizing the wild horse with strange objects and with noise. 

the safety rope to keep it tight, or the horse may 
surprise him by bounding to his feet. After the 
animal becomes perfectly submissive to the racket 
while lying on the ground, let him up, but continue 
the noise. If he still resists, lay him down again. 
Repeat until he becomes submissive while standing. 
Now famiharize him with such objects as bags 



Training to Unfamiliar Objects 239 

lying in the road, robes on the fence, umbrellas in 
women's hands, the waving of flags, and the firing of 
crackers, guns and the like in much the same man- 
ner. If he cannot be driven or coaxed up to such 
objects, lay him down and wave the objects over his 
head. Repeat until he will walk right up to them 
and feel them with his nose. When he refuses to 
be driven up to the object never punish him, as this 
only frightens him all the more. Either put the 
throwing harness on him and lay him down, then 
bring the object to him; or attach the tail-rope and 
let him go round and round until he becomes stupefied, 
and then bring the object to him as before. Soon 
he will understand that he must either face the object 
of his fear when asked to do so or be placed on his 
back and have the object brought to him. When 
he faces the object be sure to caress him, to help fix 
the idea that he is not going to be injured. 

To familiarize the wild horse with the automobile, 
place the double safety and guy rope (p. 201) on him 
and approach the machine, standing, preferably in the 
training inclosure. Make him walk right up to it 
and touch it with his nose, or if he refuses to do this 
lay him down and run the machine up to him. 
After he becomes familiar with it while not in mo- 
tion have it started while he stands near by. Stop 
it and drive him up to it again. Keep the horse 
following the machine in this way until he becomes 
steady. Next turn the machine around and have 



240 Training Wild and Subduing Vicious Horses 

him meet it; if he becomes frightened, stop it and 
(^rive him up to it again. Repeat until he will let 
the machine pass first to his left and then to his 
right; each time drive him directly up to it as it 
passes. Now that he will pass the automobile on 
either the right or left, have the machine come slowly 
from the rear. Do not pass too closely, but keep it 
well to the other side of the road. As it passes, drive 
slowly up to it. Gradually increase the speed of 
the machine and have it pass on both the right and 
left side of the horse. Now stand the horse while 
the automobile is being driven around him, thus 
familiarizing him with it at all angles. 

In familiarizing the wild horse with steam or elec- 
tric cars, pursue the same general course suggested 
for the work horse (p. 89). If he is very refractory, 
do not attempt the work hitched to a vehicle. At- 
tach the double safety and the guy rope, then pro- 
ceed as suggested for the work horse. Do not hurry 
about this part of the work and do not punish the 
horse in case he acts up. After he gets fairly well 
accustomed to the cars, then hitch to a vehicle and 
begin over again. To avoid risk, leave the double 
safety and guy rope on the horse. If he rears, bucks 
or runs either forward or backward pull him to his 
knees, and if he balks, have an assistant jerk him for- 
ward with the guy rope. Continue the work until 
he becomes perfectly reconciled to the cars from 
before and behind and from either side. 



Avoid Confusing the Wild Horse 241 

In a similar manner familiarize the wild horse 
with any and all objects and noise that cause him 
fright. Be very quiet about the work and employ 
every means in your power to secure the animal's 
confidence. Once he learns that he can trust you 
and that he can go wherever you command without 
risk, the victory is won. After that you will have no 
trouble in driving him past unfamiliar objects, noise, 
and in fact anywhere you may wish him to go. On 
the other hand, if you are careless, punishing him 
when frightened or when confused, and permitting 
him to get injured, he will lose confidence in you and 
resist your every effort to train him. It is, therefore, 
of the utmost importance that the wild, refractory 
and stubborn horse be treated gently, yet firmly; 
that he be asked to do nothing unreasonable, but 
that he be made to do whatever is attempted and 
then caressed by giving a dainty, as a carrot, apple, 
potato or sweets for doing as you wish. 

SUBDUING THE VICIOUS HORSE 

There are a few horses, fortunately a very few, 
that do not seem to respond to any method of train- 
ing. Perhaps the most historic case of which we 
have record is that of the wild horse ''Cruiser." It 
was the training or subduing of this horse that made 
Rarey famous. This horse fought every effort of 
man to overcome him. Punishment only served 

R 



242 Training Wild and Subduing Vicious Horses 

still further to increase the rebellious state of his 
mind. He was known as the ''man-eater," and suc- 
cessfully resisted all attempts to bring him under 
subjection until Rarey succeeded in taming him by 
means of his throwing and safety harness. In re- 
ality this horse was never trained, but had to be 
tamed by the Rarey appliance whenever he was 
required for use. Hence the statement often made 
by horsemen that they can train any horse, no mat- 
ter how vicious, is absurd. There are, however, 
only a few horses of this class. The great majority 
of them can be rendered subservient to man's will if 
the proper means are employed. 

In the subduing of the vicious horse it is difficult 
to give general advice that will be of value, as each 
individual must be dealt with according to his pe- 
culiarities. The requirements on the part of the 
trainer are patience, perseverance and tact, but of 
greater importance than any of these is an innate 
love for the work. It is essential to be cool-headed, 
and never fly into a rage and punish the animal, as 
such treatment only serves to increase his determina- 
tion not to submit to man's will. There are more 
horses made vicious by ill treatment than from all 
other causes combined. 

In the training of the vicious horse, the first thing 
is to get hold of him. This can usually be done by 
snaring (p. 225). For the next step one may choose 
between two apphances, the throwing harness (p. 212) 



The Vicious Horse 243 

and the tail-rope (p. 219), attaching whichever the 
exigencies of the case will permit. In case the throw- 
ing harness is attached, you must be prepared for 
a struggle, as the horse may resist every move. He 
may bite, strike and kick ; he may go to his knees 
and rear up and leap forward, refusing to leave the 
ground with his hind feet ; he may kick while on his 
knees, or he may bite, and kick with either or both 
hind feet while lying on the ground. If he does this, 
however, you may be sure he will soon wear himself 
out. On the other hand, while he may fight des- 
perately on his feet, he may be quiet while down, thus 
saving his energy to wreak vengeance when he re- 
gains his feet. 

If you succeed in attaching the tail-rope instead 
of the throwing harness, he may bite, strike and kick 
as he goes round and round, or he may go round a 
few times, then drop to his knees and refuse to get 
up until his head is released. If you should free 
him, however, he may be even more ferocious than 
before. Whichever appliance you succeed in at- 
taching, keep working at him until he goes down. 
While down make him submit to the most severe 
tests that you can give, such as the rattling of tin 
pans, ringing of sleigh bells, grinding of horse fiddles, 
firing of firecrackers, shooting of guns, sounding of 
automobile gongs and the like. After he becomes 
perfectly submissive to this let him regain his feet, 
but keep the appliances attached. If he begins to 



244 Training Wild and Subduing Vicious Horses 

act up, repeat the entire process, this time making 
even more noise than before, covering him with old 
papers, waving robes over his head, opening um- 
brellas in front of his eyes and doing everything in 
your power to excite him. After he becomes submis- 
sive while down, let him regain his feet and continue 
with the noise and strange objects. Continue this 
until he becomes perfectly reconciled. Unless he is 
indeed a demon he will unconditionally surrender. 
When he gives in, caress him and give him a dainty 
to assure him that as long as he obeys your wish he 
will be treated kindly. 

As a rule, it is not a good plan to continue this 
battle for more than two hours, and perhaps better 
results would be secured from one. In the first place, 
this is exceedingly hard work for a man and he will 
probably be exhausted after one hour's struggle, and 
in the second place the horse ceases to resist, not 
because he is conquered, but because he too is ex- 
hausted. The horse that ceases to fight because he 
is exhausted will put up just as severe a battle when 
he gets rested as he did in the beginning. What we 
must do is conquer him and impress him with his 
helplessness when in our power. Therefore, if the 
battle is not won at the end of one hour's severe 
struggling, declare a truce until the next day. Repeat 
the entire process as on the first day. When he 
surrenders, put him through a similar course as that 
suggested in training the wild and stubborn horse. 



Subduing the Vicious Horse 245 

The course suggested is a combination of the 
Rarey and Galvayne methods and is a very effective 
one. Many vicious horses have been subdued, 
hitched and driven in less than two hours' time. It 
is so effective because it impresses the horse so 
forcibly with his utter helplessness, and uses his own 
energy to overcome him. 



CHAPTER VII 
OUTDOOR VICES AND WHIMS 

Broadly speaking, the chief cause of all the bad 
habits of a horse is poor management at some stage 
of his career. Such habits may have been formed 
during colthood, when the youngster is, very sensitive 
to his surroundings, and when he is only too often 
rnade to do things that seem "cute." In later life 
these very things may serve to lessen his usefulness. 
They may be formed during the training period ; 
frequently the animal's mouth is spoiled by the use of 
a severe bridle-bit'or an improperly fitting one ; and his 
shoulders, back and tail are made exceedingly sensi- 
tive to pressure by improperly fitting harness; or 
simply by lack of proper training. Again, such 
habits may be due solely to the inability of the 
horse to do that which is required of him. This 
may depend on some unknown physical impediment 
that makes it impossible for the horse to act as we 
desire. It is seldom if ever that a horse is really 
born vicious. While it may be true that temper is 
transmitted, and that certain tempers are more pre- 
disposed than others to develop vice, yet vice itself 
is not a hereditary character. 

246 



Establishing New Habits 247 

Of all the kinds of vice, treachery and stubbornness 
are the most difficult to overcome, as animals pos- 
sessing them often deliberately oppose our efforts. 
Vice due to nervousness or impatience can be readily 
overcome, as the cause soon passes away. Vice due 
to excessive sexual excitement is often very difficult 
to overcome. Castration or spaying is the most 
efficient means for overcoming vice from sexual 
causes. Very rarely, one will meet with a vicious 
horse which seems to have the source of viciousness 
in an unsound mind. Such an animal, of course, can- 
not be subdued. 

Since vice owes its origin to many and varied 
causes, it is important to study each case to ascertain 
the cause and, if possible, remove it. In overcoming 
or subduing vice we must establish a new habit that 
will have a stronger influence on the horse's mind 
than the old one which impairs his usefulness. At 
first it will be largely a question of supremacy, and 
we must impress upon him that we are physically 
and mentally superior. From the beginning we 
must use such appliances as will give us the advan- 
tage. This can be accomplished in two ways : first 
by the employment of such appliances as will use 
the animal's strength in overcoming him, and second 
by the use of self-punishing harness, which will in- 
flict the punishment at the instant he violates our 
wish. He must be given to understand that he is 
to obey us or suffer accordingly. Next we must 



248 Outdoor Vices and Whims 

impress him with the fact that we are his friend. 
This can be accomphshed by feeding him a dainty 
when he obeys our commands. To aid in securing 
his confidence we should abstain from all forms of 
punishment likely to cause him pain. While the 
use of the self-punishing harness, by which he deals 
out his own punishment, is recommended, yet we 
should never use the whip or spur in overcoming 
vice, as the pain thus inflicted provokes further 
rebellion. 

Perhaps the most efficient means for punishing 
the horse in overcoming vice is by humiliating him, 
as this seems to have a greater effect than any form 
whereby he is caused pain. There are three com- 
mon methods of humiliating the proud and vicious 
horse : first by pulling him to his knees and holding 
him there until he becomes calm; second by tying 
his head and tail together and letting him go round 
and round until he becomes stupefied; and third by 
throwing him to the ground and holding him down 
until he gives in. The great advantage of each of 
these is that they do not cause the horse physical 
pain. 

We may divide bad habits into two general classes : 
vice and whims ; the former comprising the more 
serious moral defects, and the latter imperfections of 
less importance. 



Causes of Balking 249 

OUTDOOR VICES, THEIR CAUSE AND HOW TO OVER- 
COME THEM 

Balking. — This is a vice in which the horse re- 
fuses to obey the commands of his master. It varies 
in degree, sometimes the animal merely refusing to 
go in a certain direction or along certain roads and 
to pass certain objects ; sometimes refusing to go 
to the right, to the left, forward or backward, and 
at other times stopping, notwithstanding the driver's 
energetic efforts to get him to go ; or he may lie down 
and refuse to get up. 

The causes which excite the horse to balking are 
many and varied, chief of which are sore mouth, due 
to a poorly fitting bit or bridle ; sore shoulders and 
neck, due to dirty or improperly fitting collar, to 
excessive weight on the collar or to backing; sore 
back, due to poorly fitting harness ; sore tail, due to 
dirty or improperly fitting crupper ; overloading ; 
exhaustion; and to discontent with the treatment of 
the driver. 

As balking seems to be largely a nervous^ trouble, 
it is useless to punish the horse; in fact, such treat- 
ment only increases the difficulty. First of all we 
must divert the animal's attention from his fixed 
determination not to obey. In mild cases this can 
be accomplished by quietly arranging the collar or 
bridle, by giving a bite of grass, or by picking up one 
front foot and gently tapping the shoe as if there were 



250 Outdoor Vices and Whims 

something wrong, which serves to attract the animal's 
attention, when he will move on without further 
trouble. 

The confirmed balker, however, must be put 
through a more strenuous course, as he is not to be 
out-generaled in any such manner. Before attempt- 
ing to overcome the vice, see that he thoroughly un- 
derstands and is obedient to the commands. It is 
not possible to make much progress until he obe3's 
such commands as "whoa," "get-up" and the like. 
If he does not know these simple coip.mands, teach 
them to him much as suggested in training the wild 
horse (p. 233). Do not rush through this part of the 
work, but make him thoroughly obedient. 

Now that the horse is perfectly obedient to the 
commands, harness him, and with both the guy rope 
(p. 201) and double safety (p. 208) attached, hitch him 
to a vehicle. Have an assistant manage the guy 
rope while you drive and tend the double safety. 
Drive the horse first in the training inclosure and 
then in the open field, continuing the commands. 
If he shows any tendency to balk, such as lajdng 
back his ears, looking to the rear and the like, give 
the command "whoa" at once, and before he has 
time to stop of his own accord. This will serve to 
nonplus him. In starting, the assistant should 
quickly take a position in front of the horse and 
smartly jerk him forward with the guy rope (Fig. 60) 
at the same instant you give the command " get-up." 



Overcoming a Balking Horse 251 

As a signal you should snap the whip to the right, 
but without touching the animal, as the command 
is given. In a similar manner repeat the process of 
stopping and starting three or four times. Do not 
wait until the horse gets stubborn, but use the guy 
rope and use it severely, on the slightest intimation 
that the animal does not want to go when com- 
manded. Continue this work for half an hour each 
day for three or more consecutive days, unless the 
horse shows by his submission that he is willing to do 
as you wish. 

If the horse is rather game and fights the guy rope, 
unhitch him, attach the throwing harness (p. 212) 
and lay him down. While down, snap the whip to 
the right and left and over his body but do not touch 
him. After he becomes submissive, let him up and 
proceed as before. If desired, the tail-rope (p. 219) 
may be used and the animal made to go round and 
round until he goes down. While down, snap the 
whip about him, then let him up and proceed as 
suggested. 

During this training process, rely less and less on 
the appliance and more and more on the lines, whip 
and voice. The object should be to dispense with 
the guy rope and double safety as soon as possible. 
This can be accomplished gradually by attaching 
the guy rope to the bit and lastly by removing it al- 
together. It is a good plan, however, to carry the 
appliance for some time. Should he refuse to go. 



252 Outdoor Vices and Whims 

upon arriving at a special place or circumstance that 
formerly caused him to balk, give him a severe les- 
son. After a few such lessons there should be no 
further trouble. If at any time the horse seems 
confused, stop him at once by the command ''whoa." 
Then as you give the command "get-up," snap the 
whip at his right. This serves to remind him of 
his former lessons in subjection and he will obey 
your command. 

Occasionally one meets with a very stubborn 
horse that lies down and refuses to get up. In such a 
case something must be done to attract the animal's 
attention. Some persons advise violently blowing 
the breath into his ear and at the same time striking 
him a severe blow across the hind quarters with the 
whip. This seems to nonplus the horse and he leaps 
to his feet at once. Another plan is to pour a pint 
of water into the animal's nose while 3^ou hold his 
nose up. Such treatment diverts his attention and 
he bounds to his feet. 

Jibbing. — This is a vice in which the horse re- 
fuses to go in a certain direction though he may be 
perfectly willing to go in some other one. In America 
the habit is usually classed with balking, while in 
England, where it is considered a more serious vice 
than balking, it is always classed separately. The 
causes that tend to produce it are very similar to 
those that produce balking. 

To overcome the vice it is first essential that the 



Teaching a Vicious Horse to Turn 253' 

horse be trained thoroughly to the uses of the bit, 
to the commands, and more especially to guide to 
the right and to the left. In teaching these lessons, 
proceed as suggested for the balker (p. 249). If the 
horse refuses to go in any desired direction, pull him 
to his knees and hold him- there until he calms. If 
he refuses again, have the assistant take up a posi- 
tion in the direction you desire to go, and as you pull 
the line have him jerk the horse in the desired direc- 
tion with the guy rope. If the horse is game and 
still resists, remove the double safety, attach the 
thro wing-harness and lay him down, holding him 
there until he becomes aware of his helpless position 
and gives in. Try again as before. If he still re- 
fuses, attach the tail-rope and stupefy him. Free 
his head and proceed as before. This alternate 
lying down and going round and round soon con- 
vince the most incorrigible horse of his absolute 
helplessness. 

If the horse viciously refuses to turn in a certain 
direction, say to the left, lay him down on the right 
side with the throwing harness, then place a rope 
halter on his head, pull his head around on his left 
shoulder, and secure the lead-rope to the tail in such 
a manner as to hold his head over his left shoulder. 
Keep him in this position a few minutes, but watch 
him closely to see that he does not injure himself, 
as he will struggle violently to regain his feet. When 
he becomes submissive free his head, let him up and 



254 Outdoor Vices and Whims 

proceed with the bitting as suggested. This treat- 
ment seldom if ever fails to have the desired effect. 

As soon as the horse thoroughly obeys the com- 
mands and reins, hitch him to a vehicle and continue 
the work. If he seems obstinate, pull him to his 
knees; if this does not suffice, unhitch him, alternately 
lay him down and make him go round and round 
until he falls. As a rule, one half hour of such treat- 
ment for three consecutive days will overcome the 
most stubborn case. 

Kicking. — This is a very dangerous vice, though 
formerly it was the horse's principal means of de- 
fense. While the horse usually kicks backward 
with one or both hind legs, he can kick outward and 
forward like a cow, to reach an object near his fore- 
legs. The causes which excite the horse to kick are 
very numerous, chief of which are touching him in 
some tender place, as the tail over the line, the cross- 
piece of the vehicle striking his quarters and the 
causes named above for provoking the horse to balk 
(p. 249) . Lack of proper training is also an important 
cause. The horse that is not properly educated to 
pressure, as suggested in poling (p. 69), is the most 
likely to develop the kicking habit; thus if a horse 
kicks because he gets his tail over the line, or the 
cross-piece strikes his quarters, it indicates that his 
hind quarters were not properly educated. 

In training to overcome the habit of kicking, give 
the horse a thorough course in poling. Attach the 



Overcoming a Kicking Horse 255 

double safety (p. 208) and guy rope (p. 201), or some 
prefer the war bridle (p. 191) to the guy rope. At 
first refrain from touching the hind legs until you 
are satisfied that progress has been made. As soon 
as he will let you rub the body as far back as the 
quarters without any indication or disposition to 
kick, then pass the pole gently toward the hocks. 
If he shows a disposition to kick, work the pole up 
toward the quarters, then begin to work down gradu- 
ally as before. If possible do not entirely remove 
the pole from the horse. Continue until he becomes 
submissive. If during the poling lesson he offers 
to resist, pull him to his knees and continue the work. 
If he is exceedingly game, attach the thro wing-har- 
ness (p. 212), lay him on the ground and pole him 
while down. When he becomes submissive while 
down, let him up and continue the poling as before. 
After his hind legs are submissive, crupper him as 
suggested (p. 70), employing the appliance if neces- 
sary to control him. 

Now harness the horse, arranging the breast-band 
and breeching rather loosely and placing the traces 
through the rings on the breeching, so that the ends 
will flap about the hind legs and quarters. If he 
resents the pressure from the loose harness and kicks, 
stop him instantly and attach the war bridle and 
double safety, or better still, attach the appliance 
at the time of harnessing if the animal promises to 
give trouble. Now try him again, and if he kicks, 



256 Outdoor Vices and Whims 

give the command ''steady" and pull him to his 
knees rather severely. Hold him in this position 
until the excitement passes away. Continue the 
process until he submits. 

Next take two long poles, secure one end of each 
on either side at the shaft tug, and allow the other 
end to drag on the ground behind the horse. Now 
drive him about, and if he offers to kick, command 
''steady," and if he continues, pull him to his knees 
and hold him there a moment. If he fights this 
appliance too much, attach the thro wing-harness and 
lay him down or use the tail-rope (p. 219) to stupefy 
him. After he becomes submissive to the poles drag- 
ging on either side of him, then place them between 
his hind legs and continue as before. Care should be 
exercised at this time, for the animal may injure him- 
self. Do not continue to drive him with the poles 
between the hind legs, for the poles will rub the legs 
sore. If he resents this or kicks, give him the same 
treatment as before. Continue until he submits. 

If the horse is a very stubborn and confirmed 
kicker, if he bucks as well as kicks, or if he has a tend- 
ency to get his head down on his breast so as to 
render the lines ineffective, then attach the lacking 
reins (p. 202) instead of common lines. These reins 
provide good leverage and are very efficient in con- 
trolling such a horse. 

After the horse becomes perfectly submissive to 
the poles dragging both on the outside and between 



Causes of Shying 257 

his hind legs, he should be hitched to a vehicle. At 
first the double safety and war bridle should be re- 
tained and one of the kicking appliances suggested 
(p. 202) should be provided, so as to be able to meet 
any emergency. If the horse shows any tendency 
to kick, give the command ''steady" and pull him to 
his knees. Repeat this two or three times, and about 
the fourth time, instead of using the safety rope, give 
the animal a severe set-back with the lines by having 
the left line tight and giving a severe pull with the 
right. This gives him the impression that you have 
the same power over him with the lines that you have 
with the safety rope. Continue this, removing the 
ropes as soon as it is safe, though they should be 
carried along for some time. 

Shying. — This is a very dangerous habit and 
usually results from two causes, a natural nervous 
or timid temperament and defective eyesight. As 
the latter is beyond the field of the trainer, requiring 
the attention of a veterinary surgeon, we will not 
consider it here. We are more especially interested 
in shying as the result of a nervous temperament, 
as much can be done to overcome it if the proper 
means are employed. With this class of horses the 
habit is largely due to improper handling. Perhaps 
no other single cause results in so much shying as 
the improper use of the whip. The timid horse 
comes to some object that frightens him, and true to 
his instinct he pauses, or he may notice the object 



258 Outdoor Vices and Whims 

just as he gets even with it, and again, true to his na- 
ture, he jumps in an endeavor to get away. In either 
case, instead of permitting the horse to get acquainted 
with the object, the driver takes the whip and by 
punishing the animal forces him past and may con- 
tinue the punishment long after the object is passed. 
It is in some such way as this that the habit of 
shying is formed. 

The very nervous horse will sometimes shy at the 
most trifling objects and no doubt occasionally im- 
agine the object of his fright. The sudden rustling 
of the leaves or a piece of paper caused by the wind, 
stumps, stones, logs, pools of water, flashing light 
and the like are common objects. The automobile, 
electric and steam cars and the traction engine often 
excite the horse to shy. Few horses are so steady 
but that they will show alarm at a pig that runs 
and grunts, particularly after night. Whatever the 
cause of the horse's fear, he must be made familiar 
with it and taught that it will do him no harm. 

To overcome the habit of shying it is absolutely 
necessary that the horse understands and obej^s the 
commands. Next familiarize him with strange ob- 
jects, as suggested for the work horse (p. 85) and 
the wild horse (p. 237) . After working with a rather 
familiar object, as old papers, which were suggested 
for the work horse, then take an object that causes 
the animal special fear and with the appliances sug- 
gested for the wild horse thoroughly educate the 



Restoring Confidence 259 

timid horse that such objects cannot do him injury. 
Do not rush through this work, but give him ample 
time to adjust himself to the new condition. After 
he is perfectly familiar with this special object, take 
another and repeat the lesson. To inspire confi- 
dence in your commands, caress him often and soon 
he will go any place you wish. 

Now that he has learned to face strange objects 
and has confidence that you will not ask him to do 
that which will cause him injury, you are ready to 
hitch him to a vehicle. For the first few times leave 
the safety ropes attached. If convenient, drive him 
past some object that formerly caused him special 
fright. As you approach the object, caress him with 
voice and whip to assure him that no injury is to 
come to him. Drive up on the opposite side of the 
road until a few feet in front of the object, then face 
him toward it, and stop at the command ''whoa," if 
necessary using the safety to assure him that you 
have perfect command. Now make him walk right 
up and feel it with his nose as you did the objects 
in the training paddock. As he moves toward it, 
caress him to give him confidence. If at any time 
you wish to square him, pull his head away from the 
object, as this straightens the head and neck and 
gives much better control. To leave the object, 
carefully pull the horse away with the line farthest 
from it and give the command ''get-up." Should he 
show alarm, immediately stop him at the command 



260 Outdoor Vices and Whims 

''whoa" and allow him to stand until he becomes 
steady. If he seems frightened, turn around and 
approach the Object as before. Continue this pro- 
cess until the timid horse will face everything that 
formerly caused him fright, and shows no fear either 
in approaching or leaving. 

Running away. — This is a vice in which the horse 
usually breaks suddenly into a gallop and rushes 
forward with all the speed of which he is capable. 
Once started he seemingly no longer sees, hears or 
smells. Blind to objects likely to injure him, deaf 
to threats, insensible to blows and to pulling on the 
bit, he no longer realizes danger. Efforts made to 
stop him only serve to increase his fright and he 
stops only when utterly worn out in strength and 
wind, or when he is checked by colliding with a tele- 
phone pole, fence or vehicle. 

The habit often results from bad education, such 
as the improper use of the bit, or from the use of 
severe bits which destroy the natural sensitiveness, 
and from vicious tempers. It is excited in much the 
same manner as shying. On the other hand, one 
will occasionally meet with what seems to be an ex- 
tremely gentle and high-spirited horse that is addicted 
to this habit, due to some internal impulse not clearly 
understood. In such cases it is probablj^ lack of 
exercise, and when the horse is driven he becomes 
intoxicated at the chance to extend himself. He 
begins as in play, but soon ''loses his head" and be- 



Overcoming a Runaway Horse 261 

comes deaf to all restraint. It often happens that 
the driver removes the bridle to give the horse a 
drink by the roadside. This is an unsafe practice, 
as the horse may become frightened, especially if he 
is driven with blinds, as removing them increases 
the range of his vision and he sees objects in the 
rear which he had not noticed before, and in his ex- 
citement runs away. 

To overcome the habit of running away, it is neces- 
sary to put the horse through much the same course 
as in balking, kicking and shying (p. 249). First 
of all make him thoroughly obedient to the com- 
mands and uses of the bit. After familiarizing him 
with objects, such as papers, flags, umbrellas, robes 
and the like; and to sound, as pans, sleigh-bells, 
steam cars and the firing of guns, hitch him to the 
vehicle with the safety ropes attached. After driv- 
ing him about for a time, give him the opportunity 
to run away. When he gets down to a good run 
command ''steady" and begin to restrain his front 
feet with the ropes. Slacken him gradually until 
slow enough to permit a sudden stop, then give the 
command ''whoa" and bring him to his knees. For 
this work it is necessary to pad the knees (Fig. 27), 
otherwise he will injure them. Repeat this a couple 
of times, and about the third, instead of using the 
safety rope to bring him to his knees, give him a se- 
vere set-back with the lines by having the left line 
tight and giving a severe pull with the right, thus giv- 



262 Outdoor Vices and Whims 

ing him the impression that you have the same power 
with the hnes that you have with the safety rope. 
Continue this work, driving him past objects that 
formerly excited him to run, until perfectly submissive. 
Running hack. — This is a very dangerous habit, 
as the horse may cramp the vehicle and upset it, 
thus throwing the occupants to the ground, or he 
may back into other vehicles, or people passing by 
or the like. The causes which provoke a horse to 
run back are quite numerous, chief of which are im- 
proper training to back, and inexperienced or un- 
skillful drivers. The habit is not uncommon among 
spirited horses, in which it is often provoked in the 
following way. As the horse approaches some ob- 
ject to which he has not been properly trained, say 
an automobile, he slackens his speed at the strange 
sight; the driver at once becomes frightened and 
begins to pull back on the lines. The horse, of course, 
thinks this means to go backward, and as he starts to 
obey, the driver strikes him severely with the whip. 
Now the animal's confusion is complete; he is re- 
strained in front by the pressure of the bit, and spurred 
on behind by the blows from the whip, with the ob- 
ject of his fear approaching him, and to avoid the 
strange object he backs up, as best he can. To 
avoid all such trouble, teach the horse to have con- 
fidence in the driver, and train the animal to all such 
objects before diiving, or at least abstain from pun- 
ishing him at both ends simultaneously. 



Teaching to Back 263 

To overcome the habit, be sure that the horse is 
obedient to the commands. Then with the double 
safety rope (p. 208) attached, command him to back. 
After backing a few steps, command him to stop, 
and at the same time pull him to his knees. Con- 
tinue this until he understands that ''whoa" means 
to stop, whether going forward or backward. Now 
hitch him to a vehicle and put him through the same 
course. Next drive him to some object that for- 
merly provoked the habit and repeat the process. 
It is a good plan to carry the safety rope for a time, 
and if he promises to repeat the habit attach the 
rope and pull him to his knees .at the command 
''whoa" as before. 

Difficult to hack. — Occasionally a horse will be 
met with that resists all efforts to get him to back; 
he stiffens his muscles, stretches his forefeet for- 
ward and his hind feet backward, and will often lie 
down on his belly in an effort to keep from backing. 
This habit results from confusion at the time of 
teaching the horse to back. He has perhaps been 
punished at both ends and lies down in an effort to 
escape his tormentors. In overcoming this habit, 
attach the pulley bridle (p. 193) under the leather 
bridle, and take a position near the horse's left shoul- 
der while an assistant holds the hues. Now as you 
give the command "back" have the assistant give 
a severe see-saw pull on the lines and simultaneously 
give a sharp jerk on the pulley bridle. This will 



264 Outdoor Vices and Whims 

surprise the horse and he will take a step backward, 
when he should be caressed. Do not ask him to back 
very far at a time, and caress him for doing as you 
wish. Repeat the process until he will obey the 
lines and voice, remove the pulley bridle and con- 
tinue with the lines until he will obey the voice alone. 

Rearing and plunging. — Since these habits are 
somewhat similar, they will be considered together. 
Both invariably result from defective training and 
are usually traceable to bad mouthing. They are 
provoked in much the same manner as balking, kick- 
ing and the like (p. 249). In overcoming either vice, 
first train the horse to the proper uses of the bit 
(pp. 56 and 134). This may require patience and tact, 
but is essential in overcoming such habits. If the 
mouth has lost its natural sensitiveness by the use of 
harsh bits, use the Yankee bridle (p. 189) in the bitting 
process. As soon as he understands the uses of the 
bit, teach him the commands. By the proper appli- 
cation of the double safety (p. 208) in pulling him. to 
his knees every time he rears or plunges, he should 
be taught the meaning of the command ''whoa" 
so very thoroughly that he will stop and stand quietly 
at the command. 

Now with the Yankee bridle and double safety still 
attached, hitch him to a vehicle and continue as be- 
fore. Each time he starts either to run or plunge, 
give the command ''whoa" and bring him to his 
knees. Hold him down until he quiets. About 



Overcoming a Nervous Horse 265 

the third time, instead of using the safety give him 
a severe set-back with the Unes, to impress him that 
you have the same power with the hnes as with the 
rope. Now drive him to those objects that formerly 
caused him to rear and plunge, and continue until 
he becomes perfectly submissive and quiets at the 
command. 

Breaking and prancing. — Occasionally a high- 
spirited but nervous horse, because of his eagerness 
to go forward, becomes addicted to the habit of 
breaking and prancing when we wish him to walk or 
trot. This often becomes very aggravating and 
may lead to more serious vice, as he is especially 
liable to rear and throw his head up and down. To 
overcome the habit, attach the double safety (p. 208) 
and thoroughly educate him to the commands, es- 
pecially to the term ''steady." If he seems very 
game, apply the throwing-harness (p. 212) and lay 
him down until he becomes quiet, or if preferred 
attach the tail-rope (p. 219) and stupefy him. When 
he becomes obedient to the commands and will walk 
or trot as you like, then hitch him to a vehicle, and 
continue the work as before. The horse that is exer- 
cised regularly is less likely to acquire such habits 
than one that stands in the stable much of the time. 

Switching tail. — Some horses have the very 
aggravating habit of constantly switching the tail. 
The causes for this are quite numerous and much 
the same as in producing kickers (p. 254). In fact, 



266 Outdoor Vices and Whims 

the switching of the tail indicates a predisposition 
to kick. To overcome the habit, put the horse 
through the course suggested to overcome kicking. 
While such a course may seem long and tedious, 
it is essential, as both kicking and switching the tail 
are due to vicious tempers, and the horse must be sub- 
dued before either habit can be permanently overcome. 

There are several appliances that are very effective 
in preventing the horse from switching his tail, par- 
ticularly in the case of a mild-tempered animal. 
Secure a strap about one inch wide and of sufficient 
length to reach from the crupper to the breeching. 
On one end have a loop made so that the crupper can 
be run through it. On the other end arrange a 
buckle so the end may be buckled around the breech- 
ing. This end should be buckled rather loosely, so as 
to permit it to slide easily on the breeching. ' Get 
two short straps, of sufficient length to buckle around 
the tail under the hair, and sew these crossways of 
the former strap, the upper one about four inches 
from the top loop and the second four inches below 
the upper. With the former strap placed around 
the crupper, under the tail and buckled to the breech- 
ing, buckle the two short straps around the tail under 
the hair, and you have an appliance that will keep the 
horse from switching the tail far enough to catch the 
lines (Fig. 79). 

Another appliance that is fairly effective in pre- 
venting the horse from switching his tail is made as 



Anti-switching Appliance 267 

follows : Secure a piece of leather about five inches 
wide and about as long as the tail-bone. At one 
end of this attach a crupper, at the other sew a bag 
sufficiently large to hold two pounds of shot, and 
about four inches apart near the middle attach two 
short straps at right angles to the broad leather band 
to buckle about the tail. Fill the bag with shot, 
suspend it under the tail and buckle the crupper to 
the back-band and the small straps about the tail- 




FiG. 79. — Anti-switching appliance, in the form of crupper and breeching. 

bone, and you have an appliance that cannot be 
seen, as well as one that will prevent the horse from 
switching his tail. Still another plan for preventing 
the horse from catching the lines with his tail is to 
gather part of the hair a little above the end of the 
tail-bone, extend toward the tug on either side and 
tie securely by means of a string. Thus by drawing 
the tail down tight the animal is unable to switch it. 
Some prefer to take a strap, attach it to the hip-strap, 
pass it around the quarters, and secure the tail to it 
(Fig. 80). This arrangement is objected to because 
it is exposed to view, although it is very efficient in 
preventing the animal from switching his tail. Now 



268 



Outdoor Vices and Whims 



we may gently lower the line on either side, and 
gradually accustom the animal's hind quarters to 
the slight pressure of the lines, and eventually he will 
cease switching his tail when the lines touch his 
quarters. 

Tail over line. — Occasionally a horse will be met 
with that becomes very much excited when he gets 
his tail over the line. He clamps the line so firmly 

beneath his tail that it is freed 
\\ ith great difficulty and often 
not without injuring the tender 
parts, which may provoke kick- 
ing, backing or running away. 
\^iiile there are many causes 
for this habit the two chief 
ones are improper training, 
particularly the cruppering, 
result of irritating sores pro- 
The tight, dirty 




Fig. 80. — Hip-strap anti- 
switching appliance. 



and tender tail, the 

duced by poorly fitting harness 

crupper causes a sore tail and the line by some chance 

gets under the tail and into the sore, causing the horse 

much pain. This he remembers always and when 

the line gets under the tail he thinks only of the pain 

it once gave him, and hence the excitement. 

To overcome this habit, carefully pole the tail as 
suggested in poling the work horse (p. 69) and in 
overcoming kicking (p. 254). Do not rush through 
the work, but give the horse sufficient time to become 
familiar with the pressure of the pole. With the 



Quieting a Horse with Tail over Line 269 

pole work back toward the tail very gradually, and 
if he shows much excitement slip the pole up his 
back and then start toward the tail again. Con- 
tinue this work until he becomes perfectly submissive. 
Raise the tail and place the pole from buttock to 
buttock under the tail. As much care should be used 
in removing the pole as in placing it under the tail. 

After he becomes perfectly familiar with the 
pressure of the pole, with the double safety still 
attached, place the harness on him and drive him 
about the paddock, managing to get the line under 
the tail. If he shows excitement, quiet him at the 
command ' 'steady," as in pohng. If he refuses to 
quiet, go over him again with the pole. Soon he 
will learn that the line is no more likely to cause 
him pain than the pole. When he becomes sub- 
missive to the line under his tail, he may be hitched 
to a vehicle and the work continued as before. 

Halter-pulling. — This is a very aggravating habit 
and one that is easily acquired. It is usually due to 
faulty training, the horse being tied up by the head 
before being educated to the pressure of the halter. 
The strange object on his head annoys him and he 
tries to shake it off, and faihng in this he tries to free 
himself by puUing. Now he finds himself in a trap 
and becomes frantic in his efforts to get free. The 
pressure of the halter hurts his head and he may pull 
so hard as to deform the face lines or injure his neck, 
or he may break the strap that secures him ; in any 



270 



Outdoor Vices and Whims 



event, the foundation for a confirmed halter-puller 
is laid, and in the future he will pull at the least provo- 
cation. To avoid this, familiarize him with the pres- 
sure of the halter before tying. 

To overcome the habit of halter-pulling, or to 
train the horse to stand tied, secure a half-inch rope 




Fig. 81. — Loin-hitch to overcome the habit of halter-pulling. 

about fifteen feet long and tie a loop that will not 
run in one end. Place the rope about the horse's 
body just in front of the hips "\vith the loop under the 
abdomen and run the free end through the loop, then 
forward between the forelegs, up through the ring 
at the halter, then around a solid post and back and 
tie into the ring at the halter (Fig. 81). Now excite 



Overcoming a Halter-pulling Horse 271 

the horse to pull. The instant he feels the pressure 
about the body he bounds forward and stands close 
to the post. To avoid any possibilities of his pulling 
in the future, with an umbrella, flag or other strange 
object force him back into the rope rapidly so as to 
cause him sufficient pain to fix it in his mind. Since 
it is natural for him to flee from pain, he springs for- 
ward to relieve himself from the pain around the 
body. After two or three such pulls he will crowd 
the post so closely that a string will probably hold 
him as securely as a chain. 

Occasionally one will meet with a confirmed 
halter-puller that is reluctant to give up. He will 
go back into the rope, and notwithstanding the pain 
about his body he pulls stubbornly. He may pull 
until he falls and spring to his feet and try again. 
After he struggles for a time, force him back into 
the rope severely by tapping him across the nose 
with the whip. This throws him into the rope with 
such force as to increase the pain about the body 
which, coupled with the fright caused by the whip 
at the nose, never fails to bring him forward. Caress 
him and treat him kindly while he stands by the post. 
Should he start to pull again, force him into the rope 
severely as before but as soon as he comes forward, 
caress him. After a few such struggles it will be 
difficult to get him away from the post. Three or 
four lessons on as many days will overcome the most 
stubborn of halter-pullers. 



272 Outdoor Vices and Whims 

This treatment is sometimes recommended for 
the horse that balks. He is first tied to a post and 
forced back into the rope until he learns its use and 
to spring forward as it presses him. Then he is 
hitched by the side of a gentle horse with the halter- 
pulling rope still about his body, and the other end 
is tied to the hame of the gentle horse. It should be 
tied of such length as to cause no pressure so long as 
the balker walks along even with the other horse, 
but the instant he refuses to go the pressure is 
brought to bear about the body, when he springs 
forward as at the post. 

In overcoming the habit of halter-pulling, some 
horsemen think they get better results from slightly 
different hitches. Some prefer to tie a stationary 
loop in one end of the rope sufficiently large to go 
about the tail similar to a crupper, passing the free 
end forward through the turret at the top of the sur- 
cingle, then through the ring at the halter on to the 
post and back, and tie to the ring at the halter (Fig. 
82). Now when the horse pulls back, the pressure 
is brought to bear at the tail, a very sensitive part, 
and he springs forward as before. Other horsemen 
prefer to tie one end of the rope about a pastern, 
some choosing a fore pastern, others a hind one, then 
pass the free end of the rope through the ring at the 
halter and on to the post, then back to the halter and 
tie as before. With this hitch when the horse pulls, 
he jerks one leg out from under liim, wliich surprises 



Familiarizing with Whip and Spur 273 

him so greatly that he soon ceases to pull back. 
Whichever one of these hitches is employed, it is 
important to force the horse back into the ropes 
until he fully understands that pulling back causes 




Fig. 82. — Tail-hitch to overcome the habit of halter-pulling. 

him pain, thus associating the act of pulling back 
with pain. To avoid the pain he ceases to pull back. 
Unsteady under whip or spur. — While this ner- 
vousness or impatience is not a vice, it is very 
aggravating to drive a horse that will not permit a 
whip to be held over his back, or to ride one that will 
not obey the spurs. This is particularly true in the 



274 Outdoor Vices and Whims 

saddle horse as the spurs are used in perfecting the 
gaits. To overcome this habit, pole the horse much 
as suggested for kicking (p. 254). After he becomes 
perfectly familiar with the pole applied to any part 
of the body, then take the whip and rub it over him 
in a similar way. If he resists, attach the throw- 
ing harness, lay him down and rub him with the 
whip; when he becomes stead}^, let him up and con- 
tinue as before. Repeat until he becomes thor- 
oughly submissive to the whip and will let you flick 
it about his body. 

To overcome the habit of resisting the use of the 
spurs give special attention to pohng the flanks, 
then touch him gently with the blunt spur and next 
with the rowel. If he resists, lay him down and 
familiarize him with it on the ground, caressing him 
frequently. When he becomes steady, let him up 
and continue the work until he becomes submissive. 

Difficult to mount. — Some horses are exceedingly 
difficult to mount. While this habit may be due to 
many causes, the two chief ones are improper train- 
ing and tender or sore back. In the latter case, the 
first thing to do is to heal the sore. To overcome 
the habit when due to lack of training or nervousness, 
give the horse a thorough lesson in submission. 
Attach the thro wing-harness (p. 212), lay him down 
and hold him there until he becomes quiet, then 
place an empty bag across his body. After he 
becomes accustomed to the empty bag, fill it half 



Mounting a Difficult Horse 



275 



full of earth and replace it. As soon as he becomes 
submissive to the half-filled bag, let him up and 
replace it while standing, and secure it so he cannot 
get it off his back. Drive him about for a time. If 
he acts up, at- 
tach the double 
safety (p. 208), 
and pull him to 
his knees. As 
soon as he goes 
steady with the 
bag on his back, 
remove it, saddle 
him and mount. 
If he resists, at- 
tach the tail- 
rope (Fig. 83) 
and make him 
go round until 
he drops. Free 
his head, and 
while in this stu- 
pefied condition he will stand as you mount. Caress 
him for doing as you wish. Some horsemen recom- 
mend placing the tail-rope under the saddle-girth 
and mounting as the horse goes round and round. 
While this is a good plan it is somewhat dangerous 
unless you are a good horseman and can ride in a 
small circle or dismount quickly in case the horse falls. 




Fig. S3. — Galvayne tail-rope, arranged to over- 
come the horse difficult to mount. 



276 Outdoor Vices and Whims 

Buck-jumping. — This is a very dangerous vice of 
riding horses. Sometimes they buck and run away 
as horses in harness do. They get their chins 
down on their breasts, arch their backs and bound, 
buck or jump along in such a way that it requires 
an expert rider to remain in the saddle. To over- 
come this habit, put the horse through a similar course 
to that suggested above for the horse difficult to 
mount. Spend much time in driving him about 
with the bag of earth secured to his back and the 
double safety attached. Each time as he starts to 
buck, bring him to his knees severely and hold him 
there for some time. Soon he will understand that 
if he jumps or bucks, he must come to his knees and 
remain there as a punishment. Now do sill you can 
to make him buck, pulling him down each time that 
he does. When he positively refuses to buck, stupefy 
him with the tail-rope and then mount. 

Rearing. — ■ This is also a very dangerous habit for 
a riding horse to possess, as he is likely to tlii'ow liis 
head up and strike the rider, or in some cases, he 
may fall over backward, thus exposing the rider to 
the greatest of danger. To overcome the vice, put 
the horse through the same course suggested above 
for the horse difficult to mount and the buck-jumper. 
When he seems perfectly submissive and you are 
ready to mount, as a further precaution attach the 
rearing-twitch (p. 200) to prevent any possibilit.y of 
danger. Now if perchance he should start to rear 



Anti-jumping Appliance 277 

or even throw his head up, you can give the twitch 
a jerk which will force him to lower his head. 

Jumping fences. — Many horses have the very 
aggravating habit of jumping the fence when turned 
to pasture. While there are many causes producing 
this habit, the principal one seems to be a faulty 
temper. Many contrivances have been devised to 
prevent horses from jumping fences. Yokes of 
all descriptions have been manufactured with the 
central thought of punishing the animal when he 
approaches the fence, with the result that horses are 
often injured, sometimes fatally, by such contri- 
vances. The yoked horse in fighting flies sometimes 
injures himself or others standing near by. A con- 
trivance free from all such dangers, and equally if 
not more efficient, is made as follows : Procure a sur- 
cingle with a ring at the bottom, a short piece of rope, 
and two leg-straps provided with rings. Place the 
surcingle on the horse and buckle the straps about the 
forelegs just above the knees. Next tie one end of 
the rope in the ring at the back of the left knee, then 
pass the free end up through the ring at the bottom 
of the surcingle, then down, drawn medium tight, and 
tie in the ring at the back of the right knee. This 
will permit the horse to walk naturally, lie down, get 
up, and, in fact, do almost anything except run or 
jump, which it most effectively prevents. The princi- 
pal advantages are that there is no risk attached to its 
use and the horse's head and neck are perfectly free. 



278 ■ Outdoor Vices and Whims 

OUTDOOR WHIMS, THEIR CAUSE AND HOW TO OVER- 
COME THEM 

Tongue-lolling. — Some horses have the disagree- 
able habit of protruding the tongue from the mouth, 
usually either to the right or left, but sometimes in 
front ; others place the tongue on top of the bit, and 
still others fold the free part backward and under- 
neath without protruding it from the mouth. Each 
of these abnormal positions of the tongue lessens the 
sensitiveness of the mouth and, in addition, the loll- 
ing tongue is exposed to injury, which may become 
very serious. The principal cause of such habits is 
improper mouthing. The tongue-lolling bit was 
devised to overcome these habits. This bit is 
similar to a straight bar-bit with guards at either 
side and with an oval, flat piece of steel attached to 
the bar. This steel is about two and one half inches 
wide and three to four inches long (Fig. 94, 5 and 6). 
The bit is placed in the horse's mouth with the fiat 
piece resting on the tongue. As this extends up 
into the mouth about two inches back of the bar, 
it is impossible for the horse to get his tongue back 
far enough to get it over the steel, and the guards at 
the sides effectively prevent him from protruding it 
at either side. 

To make a tongue-lolling bit, use an ordinary 
straight bar-bit (Fig. 94, 1 and 2), and file three 
inches of the middle flat. Sew an oval piece of sole 



Mouthing Whims 279 

leather, about two and one half inches wide and four 
inches long, over the flat place. The flat place in the 
bit prevents the leather from turning, which makes a 
very good tongue-loUing bit. Now take two circular 
pieces of leather about three inches in diameter and 
attach to the bit ring on either end, thus preventing 
the horse from protruding the tongue at the sides. 

Striking lips. — Certain horses have the habit of 
continually moving the lower lip in such a way as 
to cause it to strike against the upper Up. Sometimes 
this is done with sufficient force to make a character- 
istic noise. The cause which tends to produce it is 
lack of proper training in permitting the horse to 
fight or play with the bit. While the habit is not 
as dangerous as tongue-lolling, it is very unpleasant 
to drive or ride such a horse. To prevent the habit, 
make a lip-strap conforming to the lower hp and 
chin, and attach this to the bit in such a way as to 
limit the descending movements of the lower lip. 

Grasping bit. — The habit of seizing the bit between 
the teeth or with the lower hp is quite common. 
This is rather dangerous since, when the bit is so held 
by, the horse, it is not pos^ble to control his action. 
The habit is usually caused by improper methods of 
bitting, the horse grasping the bit to gain relief from 
unnecessary pain. Usually a light jerk of the rein 
will compel him to let go, but when the habit is 
confirmed, other methods must be employed. It is 
on horses of this class that the curb bit is permissible. 



280 Outdoor Vices and Whims 

If he is persistent, have the branches curved back- 
ward. With the Unes attached to the long lever of 
the curb and the branches curved backward, one can 
easily compel the most stubborn horse to let go of 
the bit (Fig. 94, 34 to 36). 

Gnashing teeth. — This is a habit somewhat similar 
to grasping the bit with the teeth and is caused in 
like manner. To overcome the habit in case it is 
confirmed, employ the same kind of curb bit, attach- 
ing the lines to the long lever of the curb. Then 
by a slight see-saw motion of the lines one can com- 
pel the horse to desist. 

Tossing and shaking the head. — Certain horses 
have the very aggravating habit of jerking the lines 
by continually tossing the head up or down, or by 
throwing it from side to side. Such horses are 
difficult to drive properly, as they pull the lines 
through the hands and may throw the lines over the 
end of a shaft and an accident result. Either habit 
is due to improper bitting and is often difficult to 
overcome. The best method of prevention is to ob- 
tain a short strap about six inches long provided "\^dth 
a loose ring and a snap at either end, to secm-e in the 
bit ring on either side so the loose ring will remain 
under the lower jaw. Now secure a strap to this 
loose ring under the jaw, pass it down between the 
front legs and attach to the belly-band similar to 
a standard martingale. This is a very effective 
appliance for preventing either habit. 



Overcoming a Lugging Horse 281 

Lugging. — The horse that continually pulls on 
the bit is spoken of as a lugger. The habit is very 
common and exceedingly difficult to overcome. 
It is usually due to improper bitting, the use of a 
severe bit having paralyzed the muscles of the mouth 
to such an extent that as a rule no matter what kind 
of bit is used, it has no effect whatever. Occa- 
sionally, however, a change of bits will prove bene- 
ficial. To overcome the habit, it is necessary first 
that the horse be perfectly obedient to the commands. 
As his mouth has lost its sensitiveness, it will be 
necessary to teach commands by employing the double 
safety rope and either the guy line or Yankee bridle, 
much as suggested in overcoming balking (p. 249). 
Continue the work as suggested until he becomes 
obedient to the commands without the use of the 
lines. Next, with the double safety rope still 
attached, hitch to a vehicle. Now instead of pulling 
on the lines to steady him give the command 
''steady," and if he does not obey, begin to inter- 
fere with his legs by pulling on the rope. Do not 
pull on the lines in every event; if he is stubborn 
and will not steady, pull him to his knees, at the same 
time giving a see-saw pull on the lines. Continue this 
until he understands that the slight see-saw motion of 
the lines means to go steady. If he is very game, use 
the throwing appliance or the tail-rope to subdue him. 

Boring. — The horse that lugs or pulls more on one 
rein than on the other is said to " bore." The causes 



282 Outdoor Vices and Whims 

that tend to produce it are similar to those that 
cause lugging, and in fact the two habits are much 
the same ; in one case the horse pulls straight forward, 
while in the other he pulls to one side. To overcome 
the habit, put the horse through the course sug- 
gested for lugging. 

Crowding and pulling away. — These are very 
troublesome habits often met with when horses 
are hitched double, one horse often crowding the 
other so hard as to push him out of the road, or pulHng 
away so far as to pull the other out of his path, 
either of which is very aggravating. The principal 
causes tending to produce either habit are lack of 
proper training, especially bitting, and poorly fitting 
harness, which chafes the horse, thus producing irri- 
tating sores. When the trouble is due to the latter 
cause, the first thing to do is to obtain properly fitting 
harness and heal the sores. Wlien the habit is due 
to improper bitting, the horse must be put through 
a course of subjection and then educated to the proper 
use of the bit, and to obey the command similar to 
that suggested for the balking horse (p. 249). 

After the horse becomes obedient to the commands 
and familiar with the uses of the bit, he may be 
hitched double with the double safety still attached. 
Now, if he crowds or pulls away, command him to 
''take care," and begin to interfere with his legs by 
pulling on the rope, at the same time giving a slight 
jerk with the line. If he continues to crowd, pull 



The Crowding Horse 283 

him to his knees, stopping the other horse at the same 
time. Continue this until he obeys the command 
and the jerking of the hne. 

In certain kinds of work, such as plowing, when 
the single line is used on the leader, it is necessary 
to employ a ''crowd stick" to prevent the off horse 
from crowding the near one. This stick is attached 
to the lower end of the hame on the leader and to 
the right ring on the bit of the off horse, and is of 
such length as to hold him in his proper place. To 
overcome the confirmed crowder, some horsemen take 
an inch board about six inches square and drive 
several eightpenny nails, with sharpened ends, 
through it, then suspend the board on the side of 
the steady horse in such a way that when the 
other crowds, he comes in contact with the sharpened 
nail ends, and the punishment thus inflicted teaches 
him to stay over on his own side of the path. 

Stripping bridle. — Certain horses have the habit 
of stripping the bridle whenever the opportunity 
presents itself; thus when tied to a post or rack, if 
their bridles are the least bit too large, they slip 
them off their heads, and when they find themselves 
free they start to walk away, breaking the lines and 
perhaps getting into greater difficulty. The chief 
cause tending to produce this habit is poorly fitting 
bridles, either too small or too large. When too 
small, the bridle fits so tightly about the forehead 
and at the corners of the mouth that the horse rubs 



284 Outdoor Vices and Whims 

his head on the post to get reUef, and perhaps breaks 
some part, which gives him rehef and permits the 
bridle to sHp off. Thus he learns that when the 
bridle annoys him he gets relief by rubbing it off. 
When too large, the bridle hangs so loosely that in 
moving the head about, the bridle catches on the rack 
and the horse slips his head out. To avoid this 
habit, use a properly fitting bridle (p. 325). To over- 
come it when once established, use a properly fit- 
ting bridle with both a nose- and chin-band fitted 
snugly, as such a bridle cannot be stripped off without 
great difficulty, though to avoid any risk use a neck- 
strap fitted snugly and with the tie strap run through 
the ring at the bit, and secured to the post or 
hitching rack. 

Refusing to stand. — Some horses have the ver}'' 
aggravating habit of refusing to stand while you 
get in the vehicle and arrange the robes. This is 
due simply to lack of proper training, and to over- 
come the habit it is necessary to teach them to obey 
the commands thoroughly. The horse must be 
taught that "whoa" means to stand quietly until 
ordered to move on. If he fails to respond to gentle 
treatment, put him through the course suggested 
in overcoming balking (p. 249) . Then with the double 
safety still attached, hitch him to a vehicle, and if he 
moves while you are arranging things, severely jerk 
him to his knees and hold him there a few minutes. 
Continue until he obeys. 



Catching a Horse 285 

Troublesome to catch. — This refers to the horse 
out at pasture refusing to come when called, or refus- 
ing to allow one to approach him. It is very annoy- 
ing to corral such an animal. The habit is due to 
improper treatment, usually when young. It is 
not uncommon for boys or thoughtless persons to 
throw sticks or stones at young colts to make them 
run. In this way the horse learns that by fleeing 
when any one comes near, he avoids such objects 
as are thrown at him. To overcome the habit, 
treat the horse gently, take an ear of corn, an 
apple or a little sugar to the field when you go 
after him and be sure to give him the dainty and 
caress him when he comes to you. If you catch him 
by offering the corn, then refuse to let him have it, 
he is not likely to let you*catch him again; hence give 
him the dainty each time and he will soon reward 
you by coming when you call him. 



CHAPTER VIII 

STABLE VICES AND WHIMS 

Many a young horse has been spoiled the first day- 
he spent in the stable, by the treatment he received. 
Many persons seem to think the green horse should 
stand much the same as a work horse. Thus if he 
fails to stand over when commanded, or if he will not 
permit his sensitive abdomen and legs to be curried, 
or if he objects to having heavy harness with flap- 
ping bands thrown over his back, then a whip, fork 
handle, club, lip twitch, or anything that the excited 
attendant can lay hands on, is used to punish the 
horse, with the result that a habit is established which 
may be exceedingly difficult to overcome. All such 
excitement and resulting bad habits easily can be 
avoided by a little patient effort in properly training 
the horse. The stable education should take place 
simultaneously with the training in the paddock. 

STABLE VICES, THEIR CAUSE AND HOW TO 
OVERCOME THEM 

Refusing admission into stall. — The horse that 
has not been trained properly sometimes refuses to 
let the attendant enter the stall, or crowds liim against 

286 



Entering the Stall 287 

the partition once he gets inside. This is a very 
dangerous habit, as one is hkely to be injured either 
by being kicked, or by being squeezed against the 
side of the stall. To train the horse to permit ad- 
mission to his stall, secure a three-eighths inch rope 
about ten feet long, and two rings with staples 
attached. With the staple secure one of the rings 
to the left stall partition about as high as the horse's 
head, and over the manger. Secure the other ring to 
the rear of the stall where it can be reached handily 
without exposure to injury by the horse. Now grasp 
the rope, tie it into the ring at the halter, pass the 
free end up through the ring over the manger, then 
back to the ring at the rear of the stall and tie, 
leaving thfe rope slack enough so the horse can lie 
down or reach to the right side of the manger. When 
ready to enter the stall, catch hold of the rope at the 
rear ring, and as the command "stand over" is 
given, pull the horse's head over against the left 
partition, simultaneously giving a slight push on his 
hind quarter. This appliance pulls his fore quarters 
to the left and as you push his hind quarters to the 
right you have him in such a position that you can 
enter to his left with perfect safety. Continue to 
hold his head close to the left partition so he cannot 
either turn his hind quarter toward you or squeeze 
you with his left shoulder. 

As soon as the horse becomes familiar with one 
entering the stall on the left, change the appHance 



288 Stable Vices and Whims 

to the right partition, and in a similar way train 
him to admit the attendant on the right side. This 
is important, for the horse that is trained only from 
one side is very likely to cause trouble when one 
attempts to enter the stall from the opposite side. 
Repeat this work until the horse will stand over and 
admit one to either the right or left at the command. 

Difficult to groom. — Not only are some horses 
difficult to approach, but they resist grooming by 
arching the back, stamping and striking with the 
forefeet, trying to lie down, pressing the groom 
against the stall, and when loose in a box stall by 
turning around and kicking. This is a very dan- 
gerous habit, and one often difficult to overcome. 
In most cases, it is due to lack of proper training. 
To punish the animal only increases the difficulty. 
Gentleness, caresses, kind treatment and the feeding 
of some dainty will have a much better effect on 
the animal with such a disposition. 

To overcome the habit when once established, 
give the horse a course in general submission by 
taking him from the stable and using either the 
tail-rope (p. 219) to stupefy him, or bylajdng him down 
with the throwing harness (p. 212). Next pole him 
thoroughly as suggested for the kicker (p. 254), 
exercising due care about the abdomen and legs. 
If he fights the poling process, either stupefy him 
or lay him down and continue the work while in 
the helpless condition. After he becomes perfectly 



Grooming a Difficult Horse 



289 



submissive to the pole, arrange one of the twitches 
suggested (pp. 190 to 199), and with the twitch in 
the left hand, the currycomb in the right, gently go 
over the entire body, exercising due care about the 




Fig. 84. — Noose-twitch on a horse difficult to groom. 

sensitive parts (Fig. 84). If he flinches or stamps, 
jerk him with the twitch; if he is stubborn and very 
game, subdue him with the tail-rope or lay him down 
and continue the work until he becomes calm. 
Repeat until he becomes perfectly submissive to the 
use of the comb. 



290 Stable Vices and Whims 

In the sale stables one frequently observes a 
vicious horse being curried while an assistant quiets 
him with the lip-twitch. This twitch causes the 
horse such pain on the upper lip that he does not 
notice the currycomb and hence does not resist 
currying, but it does not overcome the habit, for 
when the twitch is removed, the horse becomes as 
bad as before, if not worse. 

Difficult to harness. — This may become a very 
dangerous habit, as some horses kick with the hind 
feet, strike with the forefeet, bite, rear, or try to 
lie down as one approaches to harness them. As 
in most other forms of vice, it is largely due to lack 
of proper training, and the correct way to over- 
come it is to do the training over again. To begin 
with, the horse should be made thoroughly famihar 
with the uses of the bit and obedient to the com- 
mands, much as suggested for the balker (p. 249). 
In the second place he should be made perfectly 
familiar with pressure applied to all parts of the 
body, as suggested for the kicker (p. 254). In this 
poling work, give special attention to the top of 
the head, the back, the abdomen and the tail, as 
these are the parts where the harness presses. Next 
attach the war bridle modified (p. 192), and after 
permitting the horse to smell and feel the harness 
with his nose, gently place it on his back. Do not 
throw it over his back, as the loose straps dangling 
about his abdomen and legs may excite him to kick, 



Bridling a Difficult Horse 291 

strike or bite. If he resists as you place the harness 
over the body, punish him with the war bridle. 
Continue until he becomes perfectly submissive to 
being harnessed. To complete the work, in a simi- 
lar way educate him to stand while being harnessed 
from the right side. If he is very game, attach the 
tail-rope and continue the work after he becomes 
stupefied. 

Where the horse does not too stubbornly resent 
being harnessed, very good results are secured by 
tying his head very short to the manger or hay- 
rack before harnessing, as this prevents him from 
biting or kicking the attendant while placing the 
harness over the animal's back. 

Difficult to bridle. — This is a very common habit 
and one that is often difficult to overcome, the 
horse either holding his head very high or posi- 
tively refusing to open his mouth. As with horses 
difficult to harness, this habit is due to improper 
methods of training, to the use of severe bits or to 
tight-fitting bridles. To overcome it, give the same 
treatment as already suggested for the horse 
difficult to harness. If the horse has the habit of 
throwing the head up as you attempt to bridle, 
attach the excelsior bridle (p. 193), placing one of the 
ropes well back on the neck and the other just back 
of the ears. Now as he raises his head give a se- 
vere jerk on the excelsior bridle, thus causing pres- 
sure on the top of the neck and both pain and pres- 



292 Stable Vices and Whims 

sure just back of the ears, and the horse naturally 
lowers his head, when he should be caressed and fed 
a dainty, as sugar or an apple. Next work the bridle 
up toward the top of the ears, and if he raises the 
head jerk it down as before. Do not forget to caress 
him when he lowers his head, as this is what you 
wish him to do. Continue until he becomes sub- 
missive to having the bridle placed over his ears 
without raising the head. In case he refuses to 
open his mouth, part the lips at the left side and 
with the fingers reach in between the bars and tickle 
the top of the mouth, when he will immediately 
open his jaws and you can slip the bit into his 
mouth. 

Difficult to crupper. — This is a very aggravating 
habit, as the horse clamps his tail down on his 
quarters so firmly that the crupper is placed in po- 
sition with much difficulty. The causes of the habit 
and the methods of overcoming it are similar to 
those described for the horse that throws his tail 
over the lines (p. 268). 

Biting. — This is a habit usually caused by irri- 
tation and rapidly develops into a confirmed and 
dangerous vice. Improper grooming is the most fre- 
quent cause of the irritation, hence the most gentle 
treatment is -essential in animals with sensitive skins. 

In confirmed cases, the vice is exceedingly danger- 
ous, the animals sometimes plunging ferociously 
upon their victim, trampling him underfoot or 



Overcoming a Biter 293 

bruising him in many ways. As dealers do not 
hesitate to put such animals on the market, es- 
pecially when the vice is not very marked, it is a 
good plan for the prospective purchaser to be on 
his guard. Such a horse can usually be told by 
the manner in which he sets back his ears, puckers 
his nostrils, curls his lips, stretches out his head and 
shows his teeth when any one passes within his 
reach. Occasionally, however, such a horse ap- 
pears very docile when in the care of his regular 
groom, due no doubt to his being cowed by the 
remembrance of past punishment or the fear of a 
future one. 

When the horse is troubled only mildly, simply 
nipping now and then, the habit can be overcome by 
the use of the pulley bridle (p. 193). Place this on 
him and when he attempts to nip, punish him se- 
verely with the bridle. Tempt him to nip and 
then punish him if he does. Soon he will asso- 
ciate the punishment with nipping, and will cease. 
To keep the horse from reaching around and 
biting as you enter the stall, arrange a rope to 
pull his head up to the side of the stall, as sug- 
gested in refusing admission (p. 286). 

If the horse has the habit too well developed to be 
overcome with the pulley bridle, try the war bri- 
dle modified (p. 192). Each time he attempts to bite, 
punish him severely with the bridle. If he still 
persists, apply the wooden gag (p. 200) and if neces- 



294 Stable Vices and Whims 

sary tie up one foreleg or put him in the straight- 
jacket (p. 221). After placing the gag in his mouth 
give him every opportunity to bite, for as he does 
so the sharp corners on the gag cut his gums. Keep 
nagging him until he ceases to bite the gag. A few 
lessons, one each day, will serve to overcome most 
biters. In case the horse is a confirmed biter, it is 
a good plan to put him through a course of sub- 
jection with either the tail-rope or throwing harness 
as suggested for the kicker (p. 254), and teach him 
to be thoroughly obedient to the command "steady." 

Tying the horse up short by the head, or the use 
of such apphances as the muzzle, necklet or neck- 
cradle (Fig. 91), effectively prevent him from biting, 
but in no manner serve to overcome the habit. 
Such methods may be useful in protecting the 
attendant while he curries, harnesses or gentles the 
horse, but they are not severe enough to effect a cure. 

To prevent a horse from biting his mate when 
hitched double, attach the modified war bridle un- 
der the common bridle and run the lead rope back 
to the vehicle. When the horse attempts to bite, 
punish him severely with the war bridle, at the 
same time giving the command "steady." Con- 
tinue the method until he ceases the habit and 
quiets at the command. If he fights the method, 
attach the double safety and severely jerk him to 
his knees at the same time you jerk the war bridle. 

Striking. — This habit is acquired in much the 



Kicking in the Stable 295 

same manner as biting and may become very dan- 
gerous. Another prolific cause of- striking is the 
arranging of the bit too high in the mouth, especially 
when the mouth is tender, as the horse naturally 
throws his head down and strikes out with a front 
foot in an endeavor to remove the source of pain. 
When the vice is due to the latter cause, the first 
thing is to use a properly fitting bit and bridle. 
When the vice is due to infirmities of temper, other 
means must be employed. The horse should first be 
given a general course in subjection by the use of the 
tail-rope (p. 219), or by the thro wing-harness (p. 212). 
Teach him to obey the commands thoroughly, and 
especially '^steady." Then place him back in the 
stable, attach the war bridle modified (p. 192) and 
gentle both forelegs. If he strikes, punish him se- 
verely with the war bridle. Continue until he be- 
comes perfectly submissive and will not raise either 
foreleg until commanded to do so. 

Kicking in stable. — The horses that are given to 
this vice may be divided into two general classes : 
those that kick at persons who may be entering the 
stall or passing by, and those that kick to hear the 
noise; the latter usually kick at night and are 
spoken of as ''night kickers." The former may 
prove very dangerous and the latter very annoy- 
ing. The causes that produce the vice of kicking 
at persons are practically the same as those that 
make the horse difficult to groom (p. 288). To over- 



296 Stable Vices and Whims 

come this habit in case it is confirmed, remove the 
horse from the stall and give him a complete course 
in subjection with either the tail-rope or the throw- 
ing-harness. Thoroughly teach him the commands, 
especially ''whoa" and "steady," Place him back 
in the stall, attach the war bridle modified (p. 192) 
and when he kicks punish him severely with the bri- 
dle. Endeavor to make him kick, then punish him 
for doing so. Continue until he becomes per- 
fectly submissive while you pass around him and 
handle his hind quarters. 

As a precaution, arrange an appliance to pull his 
head up to the side of the stall whenever you wish 
to enter, similar to that suggested for refusing ad- 
mission (p. 286). Another device that some per- 
sons prefer in teaching the horse to stand over is 
made from a surcingle and long rope. The surcingle 
is placed about the horse and one end of the rope 
tied in the ring on the left side of the halter; the 
free end is then passed back and through the ring 
at the top of the surcingle, and tied at some con- 
venient place near the rear of the stall. Now by 
pulling the rope we pull the horse's head to the 
left and his hind quarters to the right, thus enabling 
one to enter the stall without risk. 

There are several ways of overcoming ''night 
kicking," or kicking to hear the noise. A very 
simple yet effective plan is to suspend from the 
ceiling a bag of hay in such a position that when 



Overcoming Stable-kicking 297 

hanging, it will clear the floor by about three feet and 
be about one foot to the rear of the horse's quar- 
ters. Each time he kicks the bag will swing back 
and strike his quarters. Soon he will tire of kick- 
ing it away and will stand quietly, when the bag will 
cease to annoy him; but as soon as he begins kick- 
ing, it will strike him again. In this way he quickly 
learns that by standing quietly he avoids the an- 
noyance of the bag striking his quarters. Another 
plan is to pad the stall, using hay or straw and burlap, 
which prevents the horse from making a noise. 
With this arrangement he hears no report and soon 
gives up the habit. Another simple and yet very 
effective plan is to place an elastic around the 
horse's leg just above the hock joint. Now as he 
raises the leg to kick, the elastic causes extra pres- 
sure on the tendons, which serves to divert his at- 
tention from kicking. Still other horsemen pre- 
fer the single shackle, which is made from a heavy 
piece of leather provided with a buckle and keeper 
at either end. This is of sufficient length that, 
when buckled about each hind pastern just above 
the fetlock joints, the horse can stand naturally. 
With the hind legs thus fastened together the horse 
is unable to kick. The fastening of a short chain 
to one leg so that when the horse kicks it will strike 
the other leg is not to be recommended, as it is 
likely to injure him. 

Hanging hack in the stall. — This habit is rather 



298 Stable Vices and Whims 

common and sometimes develops into halter-break- 
ing. The principal cause of the habit is that the 
flooring in the stall is too high in front. The horse 
cannot rest if his forefeet are elevated much higher 
than the hind ones. There is another rather com- 
mon cause that is often overlooked. It is the usual 
practice in erecting stall-partitions to have them 
much higher at the horse's head than at the rear. 
Often the high part is not carried sufficiently to 
the rear, and the horse hangs back in order to 
get his head over the low part and play with the 
horse in the adjoining stall. To overcome the habit, 
level the floor and raise the partition. Then ar- 
range a rope across the rear of the stall so that when 
the horse backs the rope will come in contact with 
the quarters, which will stimulate him to move 
forward. If he has contracted the habit of pulling 
on the halter, adapt any of the hitches suggested for 
overcoming halter-pulling (p. 269). 

Difficult to lead into a doorway. — Some horses 
are exceedingly difficult to lead into a box stall, 
a doorway or other dark places. This habit is 
caused perhaps by low doorwaj^s, in which the ani- 
mal has had a few hard bumps on the top of his 
head, which of course makes him rather timid about 
entering any doorway. The simplest and most 
efficient method of overcoming this habit is to 
adapt one of the hitches suggested for teaching a 
horse to lead (p. 51). Do not rush him through, but 



Causes of Cribbing 299 

stop him as he enters, caress him and in every way 
possible teach him that no harm is to come to him 
in passing through the door. Continue the work 
until he walks through the door without the least 
alarm. 

Cribbing. — This habit is commonly defined as one 
in which the horse gnaws at the stable fittings, such 
as the mangers, hay-rack, halter-strap, sides of the 
stall and occasionally the ends of the shafts when 
he is hitched. While it is not necessarily danger- 
ous, there are few habits that are more objectionable. 
Further, it is often accompanied by wind-sucking, 
which makes it all the more disagreeable. The 
causes do not seem to be well understood, a few 
horsemen stating that it is due to a disordered 
stomach, but most of them agreeing that it is due 
to comparative idleness and bad companions, prin- 
cipally the former. When once developed and con- 
firmed there seems to be no cure that will work in 
every case. 

Many plans have been suggested for overcoming 
cribbing, such as smearing the fittings, mangers, 
hay-racks and sides of the stalls with aloes or other 
bitters ; removing fittings and feeding off the ground ; 
providing muzzles (Fig. 85, 1) ; supplying rock- 
salt for the horse to lick, and the use of a strap 
tightly drawn around the neck (Fig. 85, 2), all of 
which seem to fail with the confirmed cribber. 
Since idleness seems to be the principal cause, the 



300 



Stable Vices and Whims 



best way to avoid the trouble is to keep the horse 
at work or exercise him regularly. A very tired 
horse seldom cribs. 

Wind-sucking. — This habit is commonly defined 
as one in which the horse sucks wind. He begins 
by moving his lips in an up and down motion, then 
he suddenly lowers his head, sometimes to the level 

of his knees, and then swal- 
lows a mouthful of air. As 
a rule, the wind-sucker 
may be told by the gulp- 
ing sound that he makes, 
this being very loud in 
some cases but in others 
so slight as to be scarcely 
noticeable. The cause and 
the suggestion usually rec- 
ommended to overcome 
the habit are very similar 
to cribbing. As a matter of fact, both habits seem 
to be so closely alhed that many veterinarians speak 
of them both as cribbing. In one case they say the 
horse '^ cribs with support" ; that is, that he grasps 
some object with his teeth while sucking the air, 
commonly understood as cribbing. In the other 
case they say the horse "cribs in the air" ; that is, 
he swallows the air without grasping an object with 
the teeth, commonly called " sucldng wind." 

Difficult to shoe. — A horse difficult to shoe is a great 




Fig. 85. — Appliances to prevent 
cribbing. 1, muzzle; £, neck- 
strap. 



Gentling a Front Foot 301 

inconvenience to the owner and too often a cause 
of accident to the blacksmith. The habit is usually 
due to lack of proper training or to injury received 
in the blacksmith shop. With animals that have 




Fig. 86. — Gentling front foot with rope. 

the feet gentled there is little or no difficulty (p. 101). 
When the horse is confirmed in the habit, other 
means must be employed. First his legs should be 
thoroughly poled as in overcoming the kicker 
(p. 254). Next attach the pulley bridle (p. 193) and 
gently run your hand down the left shoulder toward 



302 



Stable Vices and Whims 



the leg. If the horse resists, punish him with the 
bridle. Continue to work with the leg, punishing 
with the bridle when he resists, until he becomes 
submissive to the hand at the pastern. Lift the 
foot; if he resists, tie one end of a rope about 




Fig. 87. — Gentling front foot with leg-strap. 

the pastern, pass the free end around the neck just 
in front of the withers, draw the foot up and hold 
it (Fig. 86). If he is game and fights this method, 
strap up the left front foot as in throwing, by using 
the surcingle and leg-strap (Fig. 87). Now lead him 
about for a few minutes on three feet to teach him to 
balance properly. If he attempts to settle down on 



Gentling a Hind Foot 303 

the one front knee, punish him with the pullej^ 
bridle. 

As soon as the horse understands how to balance 
himself and becomes submissive, take hold of the 
leg and push it backward and pull it forward, and 
then to the side as far as convenient. If the horse 
resists, punish by jerking the bridle. Remove the 
strap and gentle the other forefoot in a similar way. 

To gentle the hind foot, rub the hand along the 
horse's body, over the hip, and down the hind leg to 
the hoof, punishing with the bridle as before if he 
resists. Attach the rope to the left hind pastern. 
If he attempts to kick, tie up a front foot while you 
attach the rope. Should he attempt to kick while 
in this position he will throw himself out of balance. 
As soon as you have the rope secured to the hind foot, 
unstrap the front one. Now have an assistant take 
this rope and attempt to lift the foot with it, at 
first standing well to the front and out of the horse's 
reach should he attempt to kick (Fig. 88). If the 
horse resists, give several sharp jerks with the pulley 
bridle, when he will usually raise his foot. If he 
struggles to replace the foot, tie the rope to a collar. 
If he attempts to settle down, punish with the bridle. 
Continue until he learns to balance on three legs and 
becomes submissive. 

Next have the assistant take a position in the rear 
and try to lift the foot as before, standing well back 
behind the horse and out of reach should he attempt 



304 



Stable Vices and Whims 



to kick (Fig. 89). If the horse refuses to lift his 
foot, give a few sharp jerks on the bridle, which will 
induce him to raise it. Should the horse refuse to 
hold the foot up, tie a knot in his tail as high as 




Fig. 88. — First position in gentling hind foot. 



possible and pass the free end of the rope tln^ough 
the loop in the tail. Now the assistant can hold the 
hind foot up with ease, even though the horse should 
resist. Some prefer to tie the rope to the tail and 
run the free end through a ring at the pastern (Fig. 
90). With the latter arrangement the assistant 
can work the foot up and down or backward and for- 
ward until the animal becomes submissive. If at 



Securing a Hind Foot to Tail 



305 




Fig. 89. — SccdihI imsition in Kcntling hind foot. 

any time he should resist, punish with the pulley 
bridle. Gentle the other hind leg similarly. 




I'lij. UO. — Tliird position in gentling liiud loot. 

After the horse becomes perfectly submissive to 
the rope method, go over each foot by hand, punish- 



306 Stable Vices and Whims 

ing with the pulley bridle if he resists. While this 
requires considerable patient effort and tact, it should 
be done before taking the difficult horse to the shop. 
It is a good plan to take the appliance along the first 
few times and attach it to remind the horse of his 
helplessness. After putting the most difficult horse 
through such a course, usually a few sharp jerks of 
the pulley bridle while at the shop will serve to quiet 
him while the blacksmith is working with his feet. 



STABLE WHIMS, THEIR CAUSE, AND HOW TO 
OVERCOME THEM 

Rolling. — Many horses have the habit of rolling 
in the stable. This is somewhat dangerous for the 
horse as he is likely to get fast, particularly if his stall 
is rather narrow. When the horse attempts to roll 
and stays over on his back, the stall is too narrow 
for him to go on over, so he cannot get up, and as it 
is often impossible for him to roll back, he gets fast. 
The longer he struggles, while lying on his back, the 
worse his condition becomes. This habit is due 
perhaps to lack of opportunity to roll. The horse 
should be turned to a paddock for a few minutes 
each evening so that he may frolic. To overcome 
the habit, secure a small ring and sew it in the top 
of the halter. Suspend a small rope from a beam 
or the ceiling so that it will hang directly over 
the horse's shoulders when standing at the manger. 



Rolling in the Stable 307 

Attach a snap to the lower end of the rope, and snap 
into the ring at the top of the halter. This rope 
should be of sufficient length to allow the horse to 
get his nose to the ground about where his front 
feet usually stand. This appliance will permit the 
horse to lie down, get up and do much as he likes, 
but he cannot place the top of his head to the ground. 
As he cannot roll without first placing the top of his 
head on the ground, this is a very efficient arrange- 
ment for overcoming the habit. To lead the horse 
from the stable, it is only necessary to unsnap the 
rope at the top of the halter and untie the halter. 

Tearing blankets. — There are horses that have 
the habit of biting and tearing their blankets. There 
are at least two rather common causes for the trouble: 
first, an itching skin, and as the blanket prevents 
the horse from biting the itching part he bites and 
tears the blanket in order to get at the part; and 
second, the salty taste that is found in the blanket, 
due to the sweating and other exudates from the 
skin. The salty taste induces the horse first to lick 
the blanket and later to tear it. To overcome the 
habit, attach one end of a bar to the halter 
and the other end to the surcingle, or construct a 
neck-cradle (Fig. 91). As these prevent the horse 
from turning the head to either side, he cannot reach 
the blanket with his teeth. Another and perhaps 
more desirable device is made by using a nose- 
band and suspending small; short chains from the 



308 



Stable Vices and Whims 




Fig. 91 . — Neck-cradle for pre- 
venting the horse from tear- 
ing his blanket and biting 
his attendant. 



front, back and sides in such a form that when the 
horse turns his head to get hold of the blanket with 

his teeth the chain appliance 
prevents him from doing so 
(Fig. 92). The muzzle is 
often recommended, but the 
objection to it is that the ani- 
mal cannot eat with it at- 
tached. 

Stripping the halter. — 
Often a horse contracts the 
habit of slipping the halter 
off over his head. The causes 
are much the same as those 
that provoke stripping the bridle (p. 283). It often 
results in the horse getting an over-feed, which occa- 
sionally brings on fatal indiges- 
tion. To overcome the habit, 
use a snugly fitting neck-strap 
in addition to the halter, with 
the tie-strap run through the 
ring of the halter and fastened 
to the manger. A common 
halter with a tight throat-latch 
will not overcome the trouble 
as some confirmed halter-strip- 
pers have a head of such con- 
formation that it is easily possible for them to strip 
the halter, notwithstanding the throat-latch. 




Fig. 92. — Muzzle to pre- 
vent tearing the blanket. 



Pawing Appliance 



309 



Pawing with the forefeet. — This is a disagreeable 
habit, usually due to insufficient exercise or to rest- 
lessness when the animal is left alone in the stable. 
It causes useless fatigue and a rapid wearing out of 




Fig. 93. — Appliance to prevent pawing. 

the shoes. The noise that the horse makes while paw- 
ing is almost unbearable, especially at night. To 
avoid the habit, exercise the horse regularly. To 
overcome it, buckle a leg-strap around the foreleg just 
above the knee, and from it suspend a block of 
wood, about two inches square and four inches 



310 Stable Vices and Whims 

long, so that it will hang about the middle of the 
cannon (Fig. 93) . When the horse attempts to paw, 
the block strikes him. In case the horse is very- 
sensitive, substitute a corn-cob for the block. An- 
other good plan is to use a heavy strap provided 
with a buckle at either end and buckle the two fore- 
legs together. This strap should be of the proper 
length to permit the horse to stand normally. With 
this appliance he can lie down, get up, move back- 
ward and forward, but is unable to paw. Some 
horses that paw badly in a common stall will cease 
if placed in a box stall, particularly if bedded with 
sawdust. 

Rubbing the tail. — Many horses acquire the habit 
of rubbing the tail against the sides of the stall or 
other surrounding objects. This is very undesir- 
able as the hairs soon become tangled, break off and 
disfigure the tail. Wliile there may be several causes 
for it, the principal ones are intestinal troubles, mange 
or unclean skin, causing intense itching, and infirmi- 
ties of temper. To overcome the habit tlie treat- 
ment will vary according to the cause. If due to 
intestinal worms they m.ust be removed, when the 
horse will cease to rub his tail ; if due to mange 
or dirty skin, the disease must be cured and the 
skin kept clean; whereas if due to temper other 
means must be employed. Some horsemen recom- 
mend the applying of a bandage around the dock, 
while others suggest tying two or three separate 



Preventing Shoe-boils 311 

pieces of tape or ribbon around the tail, one near the 
tail-head, a second near the middle of the tail-bone 
and a third near the lower end of the bone. 

Rubbing harness. — Many horses have the annoy- 
ing habit of rubbing the harness while standing in the 
stable during the noon meal. While this may be due 
to many causes, the principal ones are improperly 
fitting harness, which often causes sores; mange, which 
causes intense itching, and unclean skin. To over- 
come the habit, search out and remove the cause. If 
it is due to poorly fitting harness and sores, change 
the harness and heal the sores ; if it is due to mange, 
cure the disease, and if it is due to unclean skin, 
cleanse the animal. Perhaps no greater service 
can be done the tired horse than to remove the har- 
ness and let him consume his midday meal in quiet. 

Lying down cow-fashion. — This is a habit in which 
the horse doubles his forelegs back under his chest 
when lying down in such a way that the heels 
press against the elbow. The constant friction of 
the heels against the elbows causes boils or tumors, 
usually called shoe-boils, to develop at the elbow 
joint. Such boils are very unsightly and may be- 
come painful. There are several rather common 
methods of overcoming the habit, such as protecting 
the foot with a boot, shortening the inside heel of 
the shoe to prevent it from rubbing against the elbow, 
and securing a scantling two inches square across 
the stall just back of where the horse normally stands 



312 Stable Vices and Whims 

with his front feet. The scantUng hurts the cannons 
when the horse doubles them back under him, and 
to avoid the pain he ceases to practice the habit. 

Lying down in harness. — This is a very annoying 
habit, as the horse soils and may even break the har- 
ness. It is due perhaps to insufficient exercise. To 
overcome the vice, when in harness tie the horse up by 
the head so very short that he cannot lie down, but 
as soon as the harness is removed "lengthen his tie- 
strap to the normal. 

Chewing tie-strap. — Occasionally the horse con- 
tracts the habit of chewing his tie-strap. It is prob- 
ably due to the salty taste of the leather, as he usually 
begins by licking and finally takes to chewing the 
strap. To overcome the habit some horsemen 
recommend to keep rock salt before the horse for him 
to lick,. although the best plan seems to be that of 
substituting a chain for the leather strap. 

Eating the bedding. — This is a very aggravating 
habit and a rather common one. In fact, the horse 
does not always stop with eating his bedding, but 
may eat certain kinds of earth as well, or plastering 
from the stable walls. The causes of the habit are 
not well understood, as it often occurs in horses that 
are receiving what is considered a balanced ration. 
It seems to be a craving for certain minerals. It may 
give rise to serious consequences, as the horse often 
suffers from colic, the result of overfeeding on such 
material. When once confirmed, the habit is rather 



Sleeping while Standing 313 

difficult to overcome. It is often necessary to remove 
the bedding during the day, and sometimes the muzzle 
must be resorted to after he has had his night feed. 

Resting one hind foot upon the other. — It is very 
common to see a horse standing with one hind foot 
semiflexed and resting upon the front surface of 
the other. The principal causes perhaps are fatigue 
and unevenness in the stable floor. The habit may 
result in serious consequences to the horse, as he 
often wounds the coronary band, particularly if 
sharply shod. Sometimes the walls of the foot be- 
come so much thickened as to change the direction 
of the foot entirely. The only means of preventing 
these defects is by protecting the exposed parts with 
leather boots. To overcome the habit, do not work 
the horse to excess, or if due to unequal footing, level 
the stable floor. 

Sleeping standing. — There are horses that never 
lie down, a habit that seriously detracts from their 
capacity for work. The principal cause, no doubt, 
is nervousness, especially in the case of heavy horses. 
To overcome the habit, change the horse from a com- 
mon stall to a large box stall deeply bedded with 
fresh straw. If he still refuses, give him two or 
three days' extra hard work, feeding him in a common 
stall and on the night of the second or third day 
bring him in late, when the stable is quiet, and turn 
him loose in the box stall bedded with fresh straw 
up to his knees and hocks. He will usually eat his 



314 Stable Vices and Whims 

feed and lie down at once, and he should not be dis- 
turbed until he gets up of his own accord. It has 
been suggested to suspend a five-pound weight se- 
curely fastened to the tail, so that it will hang about 
four inches above the hocks. It is stated that the 
strain of the weight impels the horse to lie down. 

Trotting in stable. — This is a habit in which the 
horse executes a movement somewhat similar to the 
trot ; that is, he moves from one pair of diagonal 
feet to the other. While the habit has no serious con- 
sequences, the noise is rather annoying and the horse 
uses up energy, which lowers his efficiency as a working 
animal. The principal cause is lack of regular exer- 
cise, as hard working horses are never troubled, and 
it is of rare occurrence among those given sufficient 
exercise. 

Weaving. — This is a habit somewhat similar to 
trotting in the stable, the horse weaving from 
side to side, sometimes raising his feet at the same 
time. It is brought on by lack of exercise and stand- 
ing in the stable. It uses up much energy and les- 
sens working efficiency. It is overcome by regular 
exercise and hard work. 

Switching tail in stable. — This aggravating habit is 
caused by improper training, particularly poling. To 
overcome the habit, give the horse a thorough poling 
as in overcoming kicking (p. 254) . Then with the pul- 
ley bridle (p. 193) attached, go over him carefully ^^^th 
the brush. If he resists, punish with the bridle. It has 



Preventing Grain Gorging 315 

been recommended to make the horse's tail sore, by- 
tying it up over his back as follows. Double a 
small piece of rope about eight feet long, at the 
middle, and tie the doubled part to the tail. Now pull 
the tail up over the animal's back and tie the free 
ends of the rope to the collar, one on either side at 
the hame tugs, drawing down rather tight, so as to 
make considerable strain in the cords of the tail. 
To hold the ropes in place, it is a good plan to use 
the surcingle, placing it over the ropes. This ap- 
pliance should not be left on more than an hour. 
It will make the muscles and tail so very sore that 
the horse will be unable to switch it for some time. 

Gorging grain. — Many horses have the dis- 
agreeable habit of gorging their grain and swallowing 
it without mastication. This may result in fatal 
colic. To overcome the habit, give the horse a 
drink and feed some hay before feeding the grain. 
Another very good plan is to feed the grain in a rather 
large, fiat-bottomed grain box provided with pockets, 
as this arrangement prevents the horse from getting 
much grain at a mouthful. Some horsemen recom- 
mend placing round stones in the grain-box, but the 
confirmed grain gorger is usually an adept at throwing 
stones out before eating the grain. 

Difficult to drench. — Many horses are rather 
difficult to drench, resisting all attempts to get the 
morsel down their throats. A very good plan to 
make the refractory horse take his drench is to apply 



316 Stable Vices and Whims 

the noose-twitch (p. 197), and jerking shghtly as the 
morsel is being poured into the cup formed by pulUng 
out the lower lip as the horse's head is being held 
up. It has been suggested to mount the horse, and 
sitting well forward draw the head around to the 
off side by the head-stall with the left hand and give 
the drench out of a bottle with the right hand. In 
stables where there are many horses to be cared for, 
a drenching bit should be procured, as the task of 
drenching is much more easily accomplished by the 
use of such a device. 



CHAPTER IX 
HARNESSING THE COLT 

In harnessing the colt for the first time or sub- 
sequently, it is important that the various parts of 
the harness should be properly adjusted, as a perfectly 
fitted harness adds much to the animal's comfort, 
efficiency and future usefulness. The young horse's 
skin is very tender, and unequal pressure due to 
poorly fitting harness is likely to abrade the parts. 
This is well emphasized by the sore mouth, shoulders, 
neck, back and tail produced by such harness. 
These are the parts that come in contact with the 
harness, and as they are very tender they are the 
places likely first to become sore. As the poorly 
fitting harness irritates these sores, they become a 
source of much pain and may provoke vicious habits. 
In this manner a severe bit may irritate the mouth 
until the parts become numbed and the animal be 
provoked to running away ; a poorly fitted collar 
may produce a sore neck or shoulders and the horse 
be provoked to balking; and a tightly drawn back- 
strap may cause the crupper to abrade the tail and 
the horse be provoked to kicking. As the comfort, 
efficiency and future usefulness depend so largely 

317 



318 Harnessing the Colt 

upon the proper adjustment of the bit and bridle, 
collar, saddle and crupper, each will be considered 
separately. 

THE BIT AND THE BRIDLE 

The proper adjustment of the bit and bridle is of 
first importance. A responsive rtiouth contributes 
much to the efficiency and safety of the horse. A 
good mouth is to a large extent natural to a colt, 
and if properly treated will remain good. When we 
recall the extreme tenderness of the mouth, the cruel 
manner in which it is often bitted, the excruciating 
pain resulting from the irritation of the sores by a 
poorly fitted bit, we can understand why a horse may 
lag behind until the parts become numbed, then begin 
pulling on the bit, bearing down, holding the head 
to one side, going with mouth open, lolling the tongue, 
slobbering, tossing the head, crossing the jaws, 
rearing, mixing the gaits, hitching or hobbhng, inter- 
fering, plunging or rushing when starting, balking, 
as well as being very restless when standing and in 
many other ways showing evidence of the discom- 
fort he is suffering. 

The bit. — As a general rule, in the control of 
the horse, too much is expected from the bit alone. 
Many otherwise excellent horsemen imagine that 
by using a heavy and severe bit they are or ought 
to be able to do anything they like with a horse, 
even though the animal has not been properly trained. 



Kinds of Bits 319 

Such is not the case, for no matter what kind of 
bit is used it cannot act as a substitute for effective 
training. 

Because of the feehng that any defect, whim or vice 
may be overcome by the use of the proper bit, many 
types have been devised to meet the various and 
peculiar habits of horses, most of which have been 
designated to punish the horse and irritate the sensi- 
tive parts, thus defeating the object they were de- 
vised to accomphsh. The horse soon learns that by 
constant pulling the resulting pain gradually be- 
comes less, due to the parts becoming numbed, and 
as a result the animal develops a hard mouth lacking 
in sensitiveness. If the bit is to remain effective in 
horse training, it is essential that the bars of the 
mouth retain their natural sensitiveness ; that the 
bit be an easy and light one, and that it be handled 
with care. 

The several makes of bits may be classified in 
two ways : first according to their form, such as 
straight bar, jointed, and curb ; and second, accord- 
ing to their function, as mild, medium and severe. 
The straight bar bit is one with a solid mouth-piece 
and without lever action (Fig. 94, 1 to 8). It is 
sometimes made with cheek-pieces (Fig. 94, 2 and 
4), and sometimes without (Fig. 94, 1 and 3). With 
this form of bit there is a minimum amount of pres- 
sure on the bars of the horse's mouth and a maximum 
on the tongue. This is the mildest form of bit. 



0:^0 





Fig. 94. — Bits. 1, Plain bar ; 2, Half cheek bar ; 3, Humane ; 4, Cliain 
center, rubber covered ; 5. Rubber tongue lolling ; 6, Tongue lolling ; 
7, Detroit leather ; 8, Straight cushion ; 9, Racine spring ; 10, Success ; 
11, J. I. C; 12, Imperial ; 13, Wind sucking ; I4, Triumph ; 15, Victor ; 
16, Perfection ; 17, Cheek riding ; IS, Half cheek jointed ; 19, Nodine, 
rubber covered; 20, Plain jointed; 21, Chain; 32, Wilson 4-ring ; 
23, Sanborn ; 24, W-wire ; 25, Racing ; 26, Half cheek mouthing ; 
27, Full cheek mouthing ; 2S, Norton ; 29, Jointed cushion ; 30, Rock- 
well ; 31, 2-ring riding; 32, 4-ring riding; 33, U. S. Army riding; 
34, Liverpool coach ; 35, Elbow coach ; 36, Full ring elbow coach. 



Bits Described 321 

As a matter of fact, a smooth, good-sized straight 
bit sHghtly enlarged at the ends near the rings or 
covered with rubber or leather cannot be improved 
upon in most cases. It is essential that the straight 
bit be of proper length for the horse's mouth. It is 
not uncommon to observe a bit of this type that is 
too long for the animal (p. 60). One important 
matter that must always be taken into account when 
fitting the straight bit is that the jaws of some horses 
are much narrower than those of others. The bit, 
therefore, should be of correct length for the partic- 
ular horse in hand and properly adjusted. 

For animals with very tender mouths, the straight 
bar is^'often covered with leather or rubber (Fig. 94, 
4, 7 and 8). To make the bit still more mild, often- 
times the rubber surrounds a chain instead of a bar, 
thus making a very yielding bit (Fig. 94, 4). Not 
only are bits of this type used on animals with tender 
mouths, but they are very efficient in overcoming 
some bad habits, such as lugging (p. 281). 

The jointed or snaffle bit is one with a jointed 
mouth-piece and also without lever action (Fig. 94, 17 
to 31). Like the bar bit, the jointed bit is sometimes 
made with cheek-pieces (Fig. 94, 17 and 18), and 
sometimes without (Fig. 94, 19 and 20). With this 
form of bit there is a minimum amount of pressure 
on the tongue and a maximum amount on the bars 
of the horse's mouth. This is a very useful type 
of bit, and many horses work more agreeably with. 



322 Harnessing the Colt 

it than with the bar bit. It not only gives more 
room for the tongue, but the pressure is more evenly 
distributed on the jaws than with the bar bit. When 
properly arranged this is a mild or medium bit and 
a most useful one, but when drawn too tightly by 
the hues it has a tendency to pinch- the jaws and may 
cause the horse much pain. This pinching effect 
is made use of in devising severe bits; thus we have 
bits of the jointed type containing a double mouth- 
piece (Fig. 94, 9, 11, 12 and 24). Perhaps these 
are the severest kind of bits. 

The severe bit should never be used unless it is 
absolutely necessary. While there are many kinds 
on the market, they each have for their main object 
that of punishment, which is always to be avoided, 
as it destroys the natural sensitiveness of the mouth. 
Such a bit often provokes the horse to lugging. 
This habit often can be overcome by changing from 
a severe bit to a mild one. With the former the ani- 
mal was in constant pain, and hence very nervous 
and excited. Being excited, his only desire was to 
go, which suggests that the severe bit should be 
discarded whenever possible. This is especially 
true of animals with tender mouths. In training 
and controlling horses, the bit should be regarded 
as a means of conveying to the animal our wishes 
and not as an instrument of torture. 

While the mild or medium bit is the one to use 
as a general rule, there are times when a severe one 



Combination Mild and Severe Bits 



323 



11 



is needed. Because of this, several attempts have 
been made to construct a bit that can be variously 
applied, so as to form either a mild or severe bit as 
desired (Fig. 94, 9, 10, 11, 12, 22, 23 and 30). Per- 
haps the Beery bit furnishes as good an illustration 
of this principle as any. This bit can be applied 
in four ways : As a 
very mild and easy 
bit (Fig. 95, 1) ; as 
a most powerful bit 
(Fig. 95, 2) ; as a 
very severe bit (Fig. 
95, 3) and as a bit to 
>cure the side-reining 
horse (Fig. 95, 4). 

Curb bits are 
made in a number 
of styles, but each 
bit consists prima- 
rily of a solid mouth- 

x • Fig. 95. — Beery bit. 1, Easy ;;?, Powerful ; 

piece connecting s, very severe ; ^, side reining. 

two cheek-pieces 

(Fig. 94, 31 to 36) . The mouth-piece may be straight 
or curved, the more common form having an upward 
curve at the center (Fig. 94, 31 to 33). This bit is 
often used with the curb chain or strap which extends 
from one side around to the other beneath the lower 
jaw. When the curb chain is used, a lever action is 
obtained, the efficiency of which depends on the man- 




324 Harnessing the Colt 

ner in which the bit and chain are arranged. If the 
curb chain is too tight, causing pain on the surface of 
the chin, the horse will project his head forward and 
fret. Much care should be exercised in adjusting the 
bit and chain so as to get sufficient power on the bars 
of the mouth without pain on the chin. A double 
chain worked flat is best for general use. While 
many persons prefer a leather strap to a chain, yet 
leather is subject to stretching and contracting and 
is likely to become stiff and harsh. 

The curb bit is used to advantage to improve the 
action in training and driving the high-acting coach 
horse. The horse properly bitted with a curb bit 
gets his head up and nose in and shows himself to 
better advantage than with any other kind of bit. 
The curb bit should be used only by those who are 
familiar with it, as it may become an instrument 
of torture in the hands of the inexperienced. 

In training a colt to the uses of the bit, a mouthing 
bit is often used. This consists of an ordinary jointed 
bit provided with keys at its center (Fig. 94, 26 and 
27). The keys hang upon and tickle the tongue, 
and cause the colt to champ the bit, and tend to 
keep his mind occupied while he is in training. It 
should not be used on nervous horses (p. 58). 

A sympathetic feeling should always exist between 
horse and driver, and the proper bit to secure this 
relationship can be determined only by trial, and 
several changes are often necessary. When it has 



Fitting the Bridle 325 

been determined which bit best serves the purpose, 
no further change should be made. The horse 
does not take kindly to a change of bits after be- 
coming used to a certain kind. Such a change makes 
him uncomfortable and may interfere with his effi- 
ciency, particularly his action. 

Head-stall. — The cheek-straps should be properly 
adjusted so as to keep the bit in its proper place, 
that is, right across the bars of the mouth just above 
the tushes. This is very important. If the cheek- 
straps are too long, the bit drops so that the rings 
are drawn into the mouth. The horse becomes 
careless and unmindful of our wish. On the other 
hand, if they are too short, the bit is drawn upward 
into the angles of the mouth and becomes a con- 
stant source of annoyance to the animal and may 
produce a sore mouth. It is a common mistake 
among horsemen to draw the bit up into the corners 
of the mouth, so as to cause slight wrinkles. The 
brow-band and throat-latch should be carefully ob- 
served, to see that they are neither too loose nor 
too tight, as the former arrangement is very annoying 
to the horse and the latter rather painful, either 
of which may provoke certain kinds of vice or whims 
(p. 249). 

Blinds. — There is diversity of opinion as to the 
advisability of using blinds on the bridle, particularly 
during the training period. Some horsemen con- 
tend that blinds are of benefit, while others are just 



326 Harnessing the Colt 

as certain |,hat it is a detriment to limit the range of 
vision while training. While much depends on the 
individuality of the animal, it is true that most 
colts train better in the open bridle. As a matter of 
actual fact, this is very important in the education 
of a driving horse. No horse can be said to be 
trained until he is familiar with objects at all angles, 
and to accomplish this the open bridle must be used. 
After training, however, there is no important ob- 
jection to the use of blinds, although even then they 
add weight, are warm in summer and very annoying 
to the horse ; but many horses work better when 
blinds are used, in which case they should be attached 
to the bridle. If blinds are used, they should be 
firmly adjusted to the bridle so they cannot swing 
back and forth. They should be of the same height 
on the horse's head, as it is very unsightly as well as 
annoying to the horse to have one placed low and 
the other high on the face. 

Centerpieces, earbobs, tassels and brass fixtures. — 
Such fixtures add to the general appearance of the 
turnout. While fashion and custom seem to demand 
a certain amount of unnecessary fixtures to worry 
and annoy the horse, the use of them is not recom- 
mended. Such parts are costly and add nothing to 
utihty. It would be more economical to use harness 
of a better quality without such fixtures. On the 
other hand, brass fixtures are often of indirect benefit, 
as they promote interest in caring for the harness, 



Adjusting the Check-rein 327 

the driver taking delight in having the harness and 
fixtures shine. However, it requires much rubbing 
and pohshing to keep the brass in presentable condi- 
tion. When all the metal parts of the entire har- 
ness are brass (Fig. 29), it requires at least one hour 
after each drive to keep the fixtures shining and 
from turning green, as they will if not polished often. 
Compare with Fig. 98, where the metal parts are 
black and the harness much less expensive. 

The check-rein. — The adjustment of the check- 
rein deserves special consideration, as the efficiency 
of the horse depends much upon the way in which 
his head is held. In common practice there are 
two general methods of checking the horse's head — 
by means of the side-rein and by the overdraw 
check-rein. The former is used largely on work 
horses, the latter on driving horses. The side-rein 
is used with and without check hooks at the throat- 
latch. Though the side-rein is not so effective in 
compelling the horse to hold his head up, it is much 
more comfortable to the animal and enables him to 
perform his work more efficiently. Horses checked 
with the side-rein are not so likely to stumble as 
those with the overdraw check-rein and will pull a 
much heavier load. This is because they have more 
hberty with the head, thereby enabling them to see 
the ground immediately in front, and to lower the 
head, and thus throw more power into the collar. 

The overdraw check-rein was devised and first 



328 Harnessing the Colt 

used by the old-time driver, Hiram Woodruff, on the 
trotting horse Kimball Jackson, and it was formerly- 
known as the ''Kimball Jackson" check-rein. It 
was devised to prevent that once famous trotter 
from getting his head down when he made a break, 
as he could not be brought back to a trot again with 
his head down on his breast. The rein proved very 
effective for trotting and pacing horses on the track 
and its use became almost universal. 

Although the overdraw check-rein was devised for 
trotting horses, it has become so popular that it is 
used almost exclusively for driving horses. Though 
originally devised for use on the track, where the sur- 
face is as smooth as a floor, and for short periods of 
time, at present it is used on roads of all kinds 
and for indefinite periods of time. There are many 
strong objections to its use on the driving horse, 
especially if drawn too tight. It holds the horse's 
head in such a position that he is unable to see the 
ground immediately in front of him, so that he is very 
likely to stumble on obstacles in the road. Further, 
it holds the animal's head in such a direction that he 
cannot pull efficiently. This is particularlj^ true in 
ascending a steep grade. The horse is unable to 
lower his head, and hence can put little power into 
the collar. The horse that is stalled when thus 
reined can often pull the load if unreined or if the 
driver will ride him, thus bringing forward the center 
of gravity and enabling the animal to put more 



Why a Horse Should be Reined 329 

pressure into the collar. The overdraw check-rein is 
also very hard on the horse's back and front limbs 
in descending a grade. When drawn too tight it 
holds the head and neck in such an unnatural posi- 
tion that they soon become numbed and the horse is 
seen to toss his head from side to side and to take 
other characteristic attitudes in search of relief. 

After the horse has become thoroughly familiar 
with the uses of the bit, he should always be reined 
mildly. Without the rein he is likely to become 
careless in his habits, shambling in his gait and to 
yield to the temptation to eat grass when standing. 
When the horse lowers his head and neck, the lines, 
collar or breast harness sHp down and he is likely to 
become tangled in the harness and may get into 
difficulty. 

THE LINES 

The arrangement of the lines adds much to the 
appearance of the turnout and to the comfort of the 
horse. The spread line should be so adjusted as to 
enable the horse to travel straight to the front. It 
is a common practice in the cities to lengthen the 
spread lines so that the horses in a team travel wide 
apart or are well spread. This spreading, if carried 
to excess, may be objectionable, and under certain 
conditions should be avoided. Driving horses, 
whether in training or subsequently, should never 
be spread so wide apart that they cannot travel 



330 Harnessing the Colt 

straight to the front without turning their heads 
outward. It often happens, especially in the coun- 
try, that the roads are not well broken, the worn track 
narrow, and if spread too wide the horses must turn 
their heads outward in order to travel in the worn 
track. On the other hand, we sometimes meet the 
other extreme : the horses are checked too short 
and must turn their heads inward in order to travel 
in the worn track. 

Multiple hitch. — Occasionally we desire to hitch 
three or more horses abreast, and the arrangement 
of the hnes becomes important. While there are 
many ways of arranging the lines in a four-horse 
hitch, the following is as simple and effective as any: 
Use a pair of common check lines and attach to the 
outside horses just as if hitching two horses ; that 
is, snap the spread line in the ring in the bit next 
to the outside horse, on either side. Secure three 
straps about eighteen inches long. Make them so 
they can be adjusted to any length with a buckle 
and have a snap in each end. Snap one end in the 
right side ring of the outside near horse's bridle and 
the other end in the left side ring of the horse next 
to him. Snap all four bits together in like manner. 
This makes a very neat arrangement and has the 
advantage that it works equally well with three, 
four, five, or as many horses as we choose to work 
abreast. 



Kinds of Collars 331 

THE COLLAR AND SWEAT-PADS 

Since the service of the horse is so largely accom- 
plished by the shoulders, it is of the utmost impor- 
tance that the collar fit the neck and shoulders per- 
fectly. A poorly fitted collar causes the horse much 
pain, results in sore neck and shoulders, and is a 
common cause of viciousness, particularly balking. 
Collars of many types have been devised to meet 
the needs of the horse, chief of which are various 
styles of the common leather, the pneumatic, the 
metal and the humane, each asserting superiority 
over the others. 

The pneumatic collar consists of a metal frame 
lined with rubber, which ' is inflated similarly to a 
bicycle tire (Fig. 96, 2). Some of the points made for 
it are : that it presents to the horse's shoulder a soft, 
pliable cushion ; the pressure is always evenly dis- 
tributed over the pulling surface ; no sweat-pads are 
needed ; always cool ; and that it prevents all forms 
of sore neck and shoulders. 

The bearing surface of a metal collar is shaped 
somewhat like that of a leather collar, and all the 
parts are of metal (Fig. 96, 3). Some of the state- 
ments in its favor are : that the metal parts keep the 
shoulders hard and cool ; the shoulders do not sweat, 
first preventing scalds and then sores ; its surface is 
smooth ; it fits correctly, as it can be adj usted in 
either width or length; and it never wears out. 



332 



Harnessing the Colt 



The humane collar differs in shape from any of 
the others. It consists of a metal frame and two 
broad leather pads, one for either shoulder (Fig. 
96, 1). Some of the points made for it are: that 
the pulling surface is properly distributed ; the horse 
can pull a load easier because the pulling surface is 
greater than in the old-style hame collar ; the burden 




Fig. 96. — Patent collars. 1, Humane ; 2, Pneumatic ; S, Steel. 

of pulling comes about the lower shoulder joint, giving 
the horse a chance to step without bruising the 
joint where most bruises come ; there is no pressure 
on the thin skin and flesh over the shoulder-blades, 
where so much trouble is caused with old-style 
collars ; there is no pressure at all on top of the 
neck, on the wind pipe or breast to shut off the horse's 
breathing; and that it is less trouble to put on and 
take off as well as to fit any horse perfectly at all 
times by simple adjustment. 



Leather Collars 



333 



Notwithstanding all assertions made by the adher- 
ents of these patent collars, the leather collar still 
holds first place among horsemen generally. To 
meet the various needs of the horse, the leather collar 




Fig. 97. — Leather collars. 1, Common leather; 2, Half sweeny; 
3, Full sweeny ; 4, Double ribbon seam ; 5, Kangaroo lined ; 6, Irish 
collar. 



is made in many shapes, as the full sweeny, half 
sweeny, Irish or cloth-faced, kangaroo leather face, 
common leather face and the like (Fig. 97). The 
sweeny collar is intended for use on the horse suffer- 



334 Harnessing the Colt 

ing from sweenied shoulder, the Irish and the kanga- 
roo leather-faced for the horse with tender shoulders, 
and the common leather for ordinary work. 

The fitting and adjusting of the leather collar 
should receive careful attention. In the manufacture _ 
of collars the leather is soaked until it is limp as a 
rag and then fitted over a metal form representing 
the shape of the horse's neck. When dry, these 
collars are so firm and stiff that usually it is impossible 
to buckle the harness tight enough to bring it to the 
shape of the animal's neck, and the shoulders are 
therefore adjusted to the collar rather than the 
collar to the shoulders, with sore shoulders as the 
result. The neck and shoulders of no two horses are 
alike. To avoid this soreness it is essential that the 
stiff collar be adjusted to the shoulders of the horse 
for which it is intended. To do this, take the poorly 
fitting collar, new or old, wrap it round and round 
again with a thoroughly wet cloth or sacking ; or 
place the unwrapped collar in three inches of water 
and let it remain overnight. In the morning put 
the collar on the horse, and with hame straps draw 
it snugly to the sides of the neck ; be sure that the 
hame straps are properly adjusted, then work the 
horse moderately through the day. After working 
in this way, the collar will adjust itself to every 
inequality of the shoulder aiid the horse will seldom 
be troubled with soreness. 

Since the shoulders of no two horses are ahke, each 



When to Use Sweat-pads 835 

should have his own collar. It should fit closely to 
the neck along its entire length and should never be 
tight in some places and loose in others. The hame- 
straps should be properly adjusted at top and bottom ; 
be sure at all times that the lower hame-strap is 
buckled as tightly as the thickness of the neck will 
permit, otherwise the harness may slip off the collar 
when the horse is backed. 

Sweat-pads. — A collar that will fit in the early 
spring when the horse is fat may be too large later, 
when he is worked down, so that it may be necessary 
to use sweat-pads or get another collar. Sweat- 
pads, however, should not be used unless it is neces- 
sary, as they are very warm and the neck and shoul- 
ders can be kept in a more healthy condition without 
them, providing a properly fitted collar is employed. 
When the pads are used they should be cleaned and 
dried daily. To remove the dirt, some dip them in 
gasoline or benzine, though a thorough washing 
with soap and water is equally as efficient. After 
washing they should be thoroughly dried before 
using. 

Breast harness. — For light driving, such as run- 
abouts, buggies and the like, breast harness is pre- 
ferred to the collar. In fitting breast harness care 
must be exercised in adjusting the neck strap, for 
if too long, the harness will drop and interfere with 
the action of the fore limbs, or if too short, the 
harness will be drawn up and choke the animal, 



336 Harnessing the Colt 

particularly in ascending a grade. The breast har- 
ness is intended for light work only, and if the load 
is heavy, the horse may choke. 

The hame-tug. — The proper adjustment of the 
hame-tug adds much to the efficiency of the horse 
and is an important factor in preventing sore shoul- 
ders. If the draft is too low, the action of the 
shoulder while walking gives too much back-and- 
forward motion to the collar. This is noticeable by 
the motion at the tops of the hames as the horse 
walks. This constant motion is likely to cause sore 
shoulders either at the points or at the top. If the 
draft is too low, the hkelihood to injury is equally as 
great. Further, the tugs should be of equal length. 
It is not uncommon to observe one tug hitched longer 
than the other, which materially lessens the horse's 
efficiency and is likely to cause sore neck and shoul- 
ders. 

THE CEUPPER AND BACK-STRAP 

Next in importance perhaps to the bit and collar 
is the crupper. In training as well as for subsequent 
use, the large stuffed crupper free from folds is 
recommended. In fitting the crupper extra care must 
be exercised in adjusting the check-rein and back- 
strap, for if either are too short the crupper will be 
drawn tightly against the tail. Since the under part 
of the tail is very tender, this is likely to cause soreness 
and thus lessen the reliability of the horse. The 



Adjusting the Saddle and Back-hand 337 

horse with a sore tail is often difficult to manage, 
as he may at any time get his tail over the line, 
become excited through fear that the abraded part 
will be injured, clamp his tail down on the line and 
be difficult to control (p. 268). On the other hand, 
if the back-strap is too long and the crupper too 
loose it may result in the back-strap, crupper, hip- 
strap and breeching all slipping off to one side of the 
horse. It is important, therefore, that the check- 
rein and back-strap be so adjusted that the saddle 
remain in its proper place on the back and the crupper 
fit snugly under the tail, then there will be little or 
no trouble from soreness. 



THE SADDLE AND BACK-BAND 

While the saddle is of less importance than either 
the bit or collar, there are so many differently shaped 
backs that it is important to give the fitting of the 
saddle extra attention. Often this is neglected and 
a poorly fitting saddle is used, which results in a sore 
back, particularly if the harness is heavy. Further, 
the saddle should be kept clean and smooth. When 
properly adjusted, clean and smooth, there is little 
or no danger that the horse's back will become sore 
or abraded. In the case of single harness, where 
there is extra pressure on the saddle, due to the 
weight of the shafts or the like, a saddle pad should 
be used. 



338 Harnessing the Colt 

THE BREECHING AND HOLD-BACKS 

When there is much backing to be done, or in 
sections that are mountainous or hilly, the breeching 
and hold-backs assume much importance. As a 
rule, very little attention is given either the breech- 
ing or hold-backs, yet their absence frequently results 
in sore necks and sore backs, particularly among 
work horses. If the breeching is too loose or the 
hip-straps too long, allowing the former to hang low, 
it will wear the hair off the horse's hind legs, and in 
addition, the vehicle will have a jerky motion. On 
the other hand, if the breeching is too tight, it will 
interfere with the animal's action and efficiency. 
In mountainous sections the "Pennsylvania" breech- 
ing is preferred. This breeching differs from the 
common in passing over the top of the rump just 
above the tail instead of around the quarters. 

For heavy work, care should be exercised in choos- 
ing and adjusting the hold-backs. While there are 
many makes of hold-backs and backers on the 
market, they can all be divided into four general 
classes; namely, breeching and shaft hold-back, 
yoke and collar hold-back, breeching and belly 
martingale hold-back, and Boston hold-back. These 
hold-backs and backers may be attached in a variety 
of ways. The breeching is used with each except the 
yoke and collar backer. Often the saddle is dis- 
carded in the breeching and belly martingale and 



Light Breeching and Hold-hacks 339 

Boston hold-backs, in which cash the crotch back- 
straps and hip-straps are usually employed. 

The breeching and shaft hold-back is used only 
with single rigs. With this hold-back the breeching 
is attached directly to the shaft by means of the hold- 
back straps (Fig. 19). After the breeching is prop- 
erly adjusted, the main point to be noted is that the 
hold-back straps are of the proper length. If too 
short, they draw the horse forward, thus interfering 
with his action and efficiency; whereas if too long, the 
breeching hangs loose and the rig will have a jerky 
motion and be annoying to the animal. As this 
hold-back increases the draft on the belly-band, the 
latter should be of good quality and properly ad- 
justed. 

The yoke and collar hold-back is intended only for 
light vehicles. With this hold-back the backing is 
accomplished very largely with the neck by means 
of the yoke and collars (Fig. 98). Sometimes a 
martingale-band passing from the lower end of the 
collar, the breast-strap or the yoke between the fore- 
legs to the belly-band is used, and a part of the 
backing is accomplished by pulling down on the 
saddle. With this attachment it is very important 
that the saddle fit properly and that the back be 
well protected by the use of a saddle pad or hous- 
ings. One reason for the popularity of this hold- 
back is that no breeching is needed, and it is becom- 
ing a fad among owners of light harness horses to 



340 



Harnessing the Colt 



discard the breeching. As a result, this backer is 
much misused. While intended for light vehicles 
and light loads, where it constitutes a very neat and 
efficient hitch, it is often used for heavy vehicles and 




Fig. 



- An inexpensive but neat driving harness. 



heavy loads, where it is a frequent cause of sore necks 
and sore backs. When thus used it often provokes 
vicious habits, such as balking, Idcking, running away 
and the like. With this form of backer the wagon 
tongue has a tendency to rise, and one may occa- 
sionally see a driver hanging on the tongue to hold it 



Belly Martingale Breeching 



341 



down and beating his team backward, which of course 
cannot be too strongly condemned. 

In the case of the breeching and belly martingale 
hold-back, much of the backing is accomplished by 
means of the martingales and breeching, though 




Fig. 99. 



■ Light-work harness, showing belly martingalls and crotch-back 
and hip-straps. 



extra pressure is often brought to bear on the top of 
the neck in addition (Fig. 99). While this is a more 
efficient backer than the yoke and collar, it is open 
to the same general criticisms in respect to produc- 
ing sore neck. As the saddle is often discarded, it 
does not of course injure the back. 



342 



Harnessing the Colt 



When the loads are heavy and there is consider- 
able backing to do, the Boston hold-back and backer 
is recommended. With this form of hold-back the 
backing is accomplished with the breeching by means 







iW -'V'.-V', 




vumim^^' 


m 


' JSl^&.iv!^BL^fei^7 ^- 


mhMmmm^S!^^'\^ 






g 


• ^ri0mSmKlKK^lT^^TK^^^^KII^^^^KKIm^r^^^^' 


'-—' 


"- 


L-^ -'"^"^mMKBS^IE^^'o-^ 







Fig. 100. — Heavy work harness, with Boston backer. 



of tugs extending from the breeching to the jockey 
yoke, which is attached directly to the neck-yoke 
(Fig. 100). The draft is in a straight line from the 
end of the tongue to the quarters, thus giving the 
horse his maximum efficiency in backing. Tliis is 



Harness 343 

the easiest on the horse, as there is but httle pressure 
at the top of the neck and none on the back. 

CHOOSING HAKNESS 

When it comes to choosing harness, there are so 
many items to be taken into account that the task is 
often a difficult one. When we visit the harness 
store or examine the harness sale catalogue, we are 
rather bewildered by the great variety of styles — 
black leather, polished leather, russet leather and 
woven web, cut into all imaginable shapes and styles. 
No attempt is made here to go into the matter in 
detail; only a few of the general difficulties are 
noted. The purchaser should first consider the kind 
of service to which the harness is to be put, — whether 
it is intended for light driving, heavy driving, light 
work, heavy work or for fancy and fashionable 
turnouts. 

In choosing useful harness, the fewer trimmings the 
better. While white rings, brass trimmings and extra 
fixtures may add much to the appearance of the 
turnout and serve as an advertisement, especially 
if they are kept clean and shining, they do not add 
to the usefulness of the harness. Extra fixtures 
hanging here and there annoy the horses and in 
warm weather often prove to be uncomfortable. 
Further, as has been stated in fitting the bit and 
bridle (p. 327), these brass trimmings require much 



344 Harnessing the Colt 

work to keep them presentable. This extra time 
might more profitably be utilized in grooming the 
horses (p. 357). Nothing is so inappropriate as well- 
polished harness on poorly groomed horses. In 
choosing work harness, therefore, discard the extra 
fixtures, trimmings and the like. On the other hand, 
in choosing harness for fancy or fashionable turnouts, 
for display, for advertisement and the like, the more 
trimmings and brass fixtures it contains the better 
it serves the purpose intended. 

There is an arrangement in connection with the 
use of heavy harness that would result in much com- 
fort to the horse and in a saving, if it could be at- 
tained. It is to secure light parts where light parts 
will serve, as in the bridle, reins, lines, back-straps 
and the like, and to use heavy harness only where 
needed, as in the tugs, hold-backs, breeching and 
breast-straps. There is no need of having heavy, 
wide-leathered bridles, heavy reins, lines, back- 
bands, even on heavy harness, as they play no part 
in bearing the load and are often a hindrance to both 
horse and driver, and in addition they are rather 
expensive. Lighter harness where it bears no part 
of the load will serve every purpose. 

CARING FOR HARNESS 

Harness should be properly cared for, as this will 
increase the length of its usefulness and lessen the 



Cleaning and Oiling Harness 345 

liability of its injuring the horse. It is very impor- 
tant that the bearing parts be kept scrupulously 
clean at all times. This applies especially to the 
parts in constant contact with the animal, as the 
collar, saddle, crupper and the like. It is, not 
possible to prevent sore shoulders, sore back and 
sore tail, if these parts are permitted to become 
dirty, which they will, because of the sweat and 
dandruff, unless they are carefully watched and 
frequently cleaned. These parts should be thor- 
oughly cleaned each morning before harnessing, 
or better still, immediately after removing the 
harness. 

The entire harness should be thoroughly cleaned 
and oiled at least once each year. The simplest 
way of doing this is to take the harness apart and 
soak the parts for fifteen minutes in a wash-tub 
of luke-warm water containing a handful of washing 
soda; then scrub the parts with a scrub brush, and 
when dry, oil with neat's-foot oil to which a small 
amount of kerosene and a little lampblack have 
been added ; next hang up to dry, taking care not 
to dry in the sun or by the fire, and finally sponge 
with castile soap and buckle the parts together. 
Yet there can be no denying the fact that water 
injures the harness, particularly the polished and 
fancy parts. In the case of fancy harness, the mud 
and dirt should be permitted to dry. Then it should 
be removed with a brush stiff enough to answer the 



346 Harnessing the Colt 

purpose but not so coarse as to injure the grain of 
the leather. It is important that the straps be 
rubbed with the grain, which lays down the fiber and 
gives a smooth edge. Next, the harness should be 
taken apart and cleansed with a sponge dampened 
with soapsuds, using only as much water as is neces- 
sary. When cleansed, wipe dry and oil with a little 
neat's-foot oil applied with the sponge, then apply 
some good harness blacking, and poHsh. Harness 
treated in this way will neither turn red nor become 
gummy, and if often sponged with white castile 
soap, can be kept looking like new. 

When not in use, the harness should be covered 
with a sheet and hung in a room constructed espe- 
cially for it, as dust, dampness and vermin tend to 
injure the leather and tarnish the fixtures. It 
frequently happens that the harness is hung on 
hooks just back of the horse in the stable. This is 
very objectionable. In the first place, gases escap- 
ing from the manure are very destructive to the 
leather, and in the second place, the harness is 
often knocked down under the horse's feet and 
becomes soiled with manure. It is much more de- 
sirable to have a harness-room convenient to the 
horse stable where all harness can be kept, as it is 
much less difficult to keep in order, and if we have 
a hanger for each horse's harness and hang it there 
each time, the work will be much lighter than other- 
wise. 



Fly Protectors 347 

It is often very convenient and sometimes eco- 
nomical to be provided with a repair kit to mend 
harness whenever needed, as it often saves delay 
in sending to the shop. To make sunple repairs is 
not difficult, and the repair kit is inexpensive. We 
should provide a wood clamp for holding the leather 
to stitch ; round knife, gage knife, square point 
trimming knife ; four-tube punch ; paper of needles ; 
ball of thread ; ball of wax ; three different sized 
awls ; collar awl ; rivet set ; box of assorted rivets 
and a pair of pliers; all of which can be obtained for 
approximately five dollars. With such a kit of 
tools on hand, one can keep his harness in the best of 
repair at a very small cost. 

FLY-NETS AND FLY-BLANKETS 

The proper use of fly-nets or fly-blankets often 
brings much comfort to the horse. In the summer, 
therefore, when the flies are troublesome, the horse 
should be provided with either a fly-net or a fly- 
blanket, as they are more effective than any of the 
^'fly-killer" preparations that have been com- 
pounded. The fly-blanket, though not advised by 
many persons, because it is not so presentable and is 
much warmer than the open net, nevertheless is very 
effective in keeping out the flies and retains the 
natural color of animals that fade on exposure to the 
sun. Leather fly-nets are the most presentable, and 



348 Harnessing the Colt 

therefore the most desired by horsemen generally. 
The horse should always be provided with a throat- 
latch cloth when the bot-flies are present, as these 
pests are very annoying, and the animal in fighting 
them will often become excited, with a consequent 
lessening of his usefulness. 



CHAPTER X 
CARE OF THE COLT IN TRAINING 

Having considered at some length the various 
methods of bringing out the best there is in the colt, 
we will now discuss the more important factors influ- 
encing his general development. No matter how 
efficient the method of education, it is not possible 
to bring out that which the animal does not possess; 
hence the general development should receive much 
consideration in training. This is often sadly 
neglected, with the result that the colt runs down in 
condition and loses courage. In reality, he is 
''broken" in spirit and obeys, or more accurately does 
not resist, because he has not sufficient energy to do 
otherwise. Such a colt is not educated, but is 
simply worn out instead. It is the horse thus 
treated that frequently gives his owner a surprise, 
when the animal regains his former condition, by 
rearing, kicking, running away and the like. It is 
highly desirable, therefore, to keep the colt in the 
pink of condition from the time of foaling, so that he 
may develop both mentally and physically. 

349 



350 Care of the Colt in Training 

EXERCISE AND DEVELOPMENT 

The idea is somewhat prevalent that colts brought 
up roughly, permitted to rough it through all sorts of 
weather, and on scant, coarse food, develop hardness 
and endurance, and that high feeding and good care 
will cause an otherwise good colt to grow into an 
unsound horse, lacking hardiness and endurance.. 
Practical results in many cases have been such as to 
warrant this belief, not that there is anything bad 
in generous and liberal feeding, or good in starva- 
tion and exposure, but that the colts that roughed 
it always had pure air and abundant exercise, without 
which there can be no sound and healthy develop- 
ment. 

An abundance of fresh air and exercise are factors 
in the raising and developing of a colt second to no 
others. It is for this reason that we recommend 
working the brood mare both before and after foaling, 
working the stallion when possible and permitting 
the foal to follow the dam into the field when con- 
venient. The colt needs abundant opportunity for 
exercise in the fresh, pure air, uncontaminated by 
stable odors, as this is essential to a healthy develop- 
ment in all young animals. It is not sufficient that 
he be led out for exercise at stated intervals. He 
needs the opportunity to romp and play, that he may 
extend his muscles to their utmost capacity, expand 
his lungs to their very depths and send the blood 



Exercise Promotes Development 351 

coursing through his veins with much vigor. This 
is essential to a healthy, robust development of heart 
and lungs, bone and muscle, and nowhere can it be 
obtained in so great perfection as in the freedom of 
the open field. 

The colt that is kept in the stall and fed highly on 
heating grains is seldom given an opportunity for this 
health-giving exercise. He grows up a stiff, clumsy 
animal, deficient in stamina and vigor, with his 
endurance greatly reduced and this all for the want 
of what is so free — fresh air and exercise. The 
best plan is to promote the growth of the colt by 
an abundance of nutritious food, and to secure a 
healthy and perfect development by permitting him 
to romp, race and play at will. If this practice is 
followed, all that is good in roughing it will be 
attained and all that is bad or dangerous in generous 
feeding will be avoided. 

In the summer the required exercise may be ob- 
tained by permitting the colt the run of a pasture or 
paddock, while in the winter it is a good plan to fit up 
a box stall with the outside door opening to a lot or 
paddock. This door may be left open at all times, 
except in the severest of weather, though even then 
the colt should be let out a few hours each day. As 
winter comes on he will grow a heavy coat of hair, 
which will afford him ample protection. When con- 
venient, it is a good plan to let two colts run together. 
Colts cared for in this manner will spend much of 



352 Care of the Colt in Training 

their time out in the lot at play and will get the much 
needed exercise. While there is always more or less 
risk attached to permitting the colts to play on slip- 
pery or frozen ground, it must be borne in mind that 
it is not possible to raise horses of quality and en- 
durance unless they are vigorously exercised at all 
times irrespective of climatic conditions. 

FEEDING AND DEVELOPMENT 

To encourage maximum development, the colt 
should be liberally fed from the time of foaling. As 
a general rule, it is not possible to get him too fat 
before he is two years old. There are two periods 
in the colt's early life when much care must be exer- 
cised in feeding him. The first one is from foaling 
up to say three weeks of age, and the second immedi- 
ately after weaning. Many mares are very poor 
milkers at best, and the youngster is often stunted 
before he is old enough to eat. On the other hand, 
some mares are very good milkers and provide more 
milk than is good for the colt. If he is permitted to 
take it all, he is likely to suffer from indigestion, 
which usually produces scours or constipation and if 
not attended to may prove fatal. "V\Tien the colt 
is attacked with such troubles, it is very important 
to cut down his supply of milk and draw a part of 
the milk from the dam by hand. This should be 
continued until the colt can take it all with no ill 



Feeding Promotes Development 353 

effect. When the mare does not supply sufficient 
milk, the colt should be fed a small amount of fresh 
milk from a cow. When this is done, one should 
choose milk rather low in percentage of butter-fat, 
as milk too rich is likely to cause indigestion. This 
should be given in very small amounts at first, not to 
exceed a pint twice daily when the younster is one 
week old, and in smaller quantities if given younger. 
This may be increased slowly as the colt becomes 
able to take it. If it seems necessary that the colt 
have extra milk after he is six weeks old, skimmed 
milk should be substituted for whole milk. The 
change should be made very gradually. In feeding 
milk, it is important that it always be fed sweet. 

As soon as the colt is old enough, he should be en- 
couraged to nibble at grain, preferably oatmeal. 
As a rule he will begin to munch in the grain and hay 
at two or three weeks of age and should be encouraged 
to eat. It is a good plan to arrange a grain box for 
the colt's convenience, though some prefer to lower 
the dam's grain box so the colt can eat from the 
mother's supply. In this way the colt may be taught 
to eat, so that when taken from the dam at weaning 
time he will not miss his mother so much. 

In choosing the ration for the growing colt, it is 
important that much protein be supplied, as this 
constituent is essential in the formation of bone, 
muscle, blood, nerve, hair and hoof. The food 
should be palatable and easily digested. Such foods 
2a 



354 Care of the Colt in Training 

as oats, bran, peas, linseed meal and perhaps a little 
corn may constitute the grain, while alfalfa, clover 
and mixed hays, which should always be sweet, may 
constitute the roughage. Perhaps the following 
grain mixture cannot be materially improved upon 
for the growing colt : 45 pounds ground oats, 35 
pounds bran, 10 pounds corn meal and 10 pounds 
linseed meal. The exact amount of the mixture 
that should be fed will depend largely on the indi- 
vidual. On the average, however, excellent results 
will be obtained by feeding the weanling 4 pounds 
of grain daily and all the sweet clover, alfalfa or 
mixed hay he will consume, which will be from 6 to 
10 pounds each day; by feeding the yearhng 6 pounds 
of grain daily and all the hay he will take, which will 
vary from 12 to 15 pounds each day, and by feeding 
the two-year-old 8 pounds of grain daily and all the 
hay he will consume^ which will vary from 15 to 20 
pounds daily. 

Many excellent horsemen prefer to feed whole 
oats once a day, preferably in the morning, and the 
mixed feed at noon and night. For best results 
the colt should be fed the grain ration three times 
daily, though many feed but twice, morning and 
night. It is not necessary to feed the hay three 
times unless equally as convenient as feeding twice. 
To develop strong and thrifty colts, grain should be 
fed in summer as well as winter, particularh^ in the 
early spring, when the grass is very succulent, and in 



Feeding and Watering 355 

the fall, when the grass is rather short and flies 
troublesome. In the summer, shade of some kind 
should be provided in the absence of trees. 

The ration for the trotting colt in training will vary 
somewhat from that fed other colts. Perhaps noth- 
ing excels oats as the principal grain ration, though 
they should be supplemented from time to time with 
bran and barley, if convenient. A good night ration 
is made from three parts ground oats, one part of bar- 
ley and a handful of bran, mixed and steamed, and 
fed as a mash. For the colt in training most horse- 
men prefer old, sweet, clean timothy hay, as new 
timothy, clover and alfalfa have a loosening effect 
upon the bov/els of the hard-working colt. Give 
the colt all he will clean up, then keep him in good 
physical condition by exercising him regularly. 

The colt should be fed, watered and exercised 
regularly and uniformly at all times. He becomes 
accustomed to a certain order, which should be fol- 
lowed. To change the order for even a single meal 
oftentimes produces digestive disturbance. There 
is much difference of opinion as to the order of supply- 
ing food and water, as well as to the number of times 
the colt should be watered each day. Because of 
the small size of the horse's stomach, it must fill and 
empty itself two or three times for each meal. Dur- 
ing the fore part of the meal the material is pushed 
into the intestines almost as soon as it enters the 
stomach by the food that follows, while toward the 



356 Care of the Colt in Training 

end of the meal the passage is slow and the digestion 
in the stomach more perfect; hence it would seem 
that the more nutritious foods should be fed toward 
the end of the meal. Were this true, first of all, we 
should water the colt, then feed the hay and lastly 
the grain. On the other hand, it is stated that this 
method of watering affects the appetite, and the 
horse will not consume so much food as he otherwise 
would. Again, it has been very clearly demonstrated 
that if a horse is fed his grain first and then watered, 
much of the food is carried by the water into the 
intestines. From this it would seem that there are 
theoretical objections, at least, to either method. 

The most successful practice in the order of supply- 
ing food and water is to water the horse the first 
thing in the morning, then feed the grain and lastly 
the hay. Then water again as soon as the horse has 
consumed his morning meal and before going to 
work. At noon water both before and after feeding, 
and at night water before feeding and then again in 
about two hours after feeding, or just before bedding 
the horse for the night. Colts thus managed will 
never become so thirsty as to drink enough water 
to affect their appetite materially. After thej^ be- 
come accustomed to this order they will not gorge 
themselves before the meal, as they know they will 
be watered again before going to work or before 
being bedded at night. 

Sudden changes in the food should be avoided, 



Grooming Aids Development 357 

as the colt is often unable to accommodate himself 
at once to such changes, and digestive disorders 
follow. Such changes sometimes result in scouring, 
other times in constipation and occasionally per- 
manently weaken the digestive system, as when the 
colt unaccustomed to grain is too quickly put on a 
full feed. If it is necessary to make a change, let it 
be made gradually, so that the digestive system can 
adapt itself to the new condition without injury. 

The successful horseman will make a special study 
of each individual and modify the ration according 
to the needs; one colt may require a little more than 
the regular allowance and the next possibly a little 
less, because it is well recognized that some young- 
sters are much more difficult to keep in condition 
than others doing the same amount of work and 
under similar conditions. 



GROOMING AND DEVELOPMENT 

Efficient grooming, in some respects, is almost as 
essential as feeding and watering. The cleaning 
and rubbing of the skin stimulate the secretions and 
improve the general tone of the entire system, but 
more important than this is the good effect upon the 
feet and legs. The cleaning and rubbing of the feet 
and legs are very important factors in preserving 
soundness. As a general rule, grooming is sadly 
neglected. As soon as the colt is old enough to put 



358 Care of the Colt in Training 

into harness, the object seems to be to wear him out 
or to break his spirit. He is worked until late in 
the evening, hastily put in the stable, fed his evening 
meal, blanketed without being permitted to cool off 
and left for the night without cleaning the body or 
feet. The sweat saturates the blanket and the colt 
remains damp all night, the mud chills the legs and 
lessens the circulation, and the foreign materials 
collected in the bottoms of the feet heat and keep 
the sole in a feverish condition. The next morning 
the driver comes to the stable, feeds, removes the 
blanket and with the comb curries the body a very 
little, the legs practically none and entirely neglects 
the feet, then harnesses the colt and goes to work. 
At every step the colt betrays his care; he is stiff, 
his joints are sore and his courage gone. He is 
indeed ' ' broken, ' ' to use the common term. Soon the 
colt becomes foot-sore, side-bones, ring-bones, splints 
and the like make their appearance and the animal 
is sold or traded as part payment for another and the 
process is repeated. The owner often wonders why 
his horses do not stand the work as well as those of 
his neighbor. 

In grooming, the principal tools needed are a 
curry-comb, body-brush, flannel cloth, mane and tail 
comb, a half-worn broom for use on the legs, and a 
hoof-hook (Fig. 101). The curry-comb is used 
to loosen the hair which has become matted with 
sweat and dirt and to remove splashes of mud, thus 



Grooming Tools 



359 



preparing the way for the body-brush, which it 
also serves to keep clean. Much care should be 
exercised in currying the horse with a sensitive skin, 
as carelessness often provokes kicking, striking, 
biting and the like. Follow the curry-comb with the 
body-brush, and with the cloth rub the hair free 




Fig. 101. 



■Principal tools for grooming. /, Curry-comb; 
brush ; 3, Mane- and tail-comb. 



Body- 



from dandruff. Straighten out the snarls and tan- 
gles in the mane and the tail with the comb. The 
hoof-hook, which is somewhat similar to a hay-hook, 
is used in cleaning the materials from the sole of the 
foot. When the colt arrives at the stable with legs 
covered with loose mud, a half-worn broom is a very 
convenient tool for removing it. 

While the driver often takes much interest in 
rubbing the body and in keeping the hair well 



360 Care of the Colt in Training 

brushed out, the care of the legs is really of more 
importance. They are subject to severe strain and 
concussion, and if they are to be kept sound, they 
must be thoroughly cleaned and well rubbed so as 
to encourage the circulation and keep the parts 
warm and dry. The legs are the most exposed to 
water, mud and ice in winter, often remaining soaked 
the entire day, and to the ever-present dust of sum- 
mer, and it is little wonder that they become un- 
sound and often useless. To make them last as long 
as possible, they should be thoroughly cleaned and 
well rubbed each evening after the day's work is 
done, so that they will have the night in which to 
recuperate. Nothing contributes more toward pro- 
ducing diseased and unsound limbs than allowing 
the animal to remain all night with damp legs covered 
with mud, especially in damp or cold stables. The 
practice of not cleaning the legs and feet until 
morning should be severely condemned, for it is prac- 
tically useless to cleanse them at six-thirty, when at 
seven they will be as muddy as ever. 

If the animal is working in the mud, it is desirable 
that the hair be clipped from the legs as far up as 
the knees and hocks, as by so doing the animal's 
limbs may be kept clean with much less difficulty. 
In case the legs are clipped, it is all the more impor- 
tant that they should be thoroughly cleaned and 
rubbed each evening after work. 

In grooming, a very good order to pursue is as 



Grooming, Clipping and Blanketing 361 

follows : On arriving at the stable, if the horse's 
legs are muddy, they should be roughly cleaned with 
the half-worn broom. He should be placed in the 
stall, fed, unharnessed and covered with a sweat- 
blanket. When he has measurably cooled, remove 
the sweat-blanket and let the hair dry. Then give 
a thorough grooming, spending extra time rubbing 
the legs in order to dry them and stimulate the 
circulation. Now the horse should be blanketed 
with a stable blanket. In the morning give the horse 
a complete rubbing to remove the dandruff and 
stimulate the circulation. Horses cared for in this 
way will repay for the extra care many times over 
in the satisfaction of seeing them come from the 
stable in the best of spirits, as indicated by the 
pleasing appearance, the snap and vigor with which 
they lift their feet and by the complete absence of 
any stiffness in the joints. Such care will decrease 
the unsoundness and greatly increase the animal's 
efficiency and prolong his usefulness. 

Clipping and blanketing. — There is much dif- 
ference of opinion as to the wisdom of clipping a 
colt in training as well as to the time of year it should 
be accomplished. It is stated that clipping im- 
proves the general appearance, renders the coat 
more easily kept clean and that a clipped horse is 
less liable to take cold than a long-coated one, be- 
cause the evaporation is more rapid and the ani- 
mal does not get so warm. While these statements 



362 Care of the Colt in Training 

are true in a way, it must be admitted that it is not 
possible to make a clipped coat show the luster of 
an undipped one. Some horsemen practice cUp- 
ping rather early in the fall, perhaps about the 
middle of October, stating that they wish the hair 
to attain some length before cold weather; while 
others delay the work until November, preferring the 
later chpping, as the hair has its growth and will not 
grow out again, whereas if clipped early, it will grow 
out again and sometimes necessitate a second clip- 
ping in two or three weeks. 

There are many excellent horsemen who would dis- 
pense with clipping altogether and keep the coat 
in condition by blanketing and proper grooming. 
By the proper use of stable and outdoor blankets 
it is possible to keep the coat rather short, and by 
judicious grooming to keep it from becoming too 
thick, thus avoiding the necessity of clipping. Coats 
thus cared for can be made to carry a luster that 
it is impossible to obtain when clipping is prac- 
ticed. Wlien this is the practice, warm boiled feed 
given one or two evenings each week materially adds 
to the luster. Horses thus fed will shed very early 
in the spring. When blankets are used, we should 
provide two for summer as well as winter use. One 
should be employed as a sweat-blanket to be used 
immediately after the horse returns from work and 
while he cools out, then to be removed and in a few 
minutes to be replaced by the second, to remain on 



Grooming and Care of the Feet 363 

the animal overnight. Both should be kept scru- 
pulously clean at all times, particularly the summer 
blankets, as it is sometimes preferable to discontinue 
their use rather than to use those laden with dirt. 

During the cold weather, when the horse is al- 
lowed to stand outdoors, he should be well protected 
with a blanket, otherwise he may chill. During 
very inclement weather it is a good plan to secure 
the blanket around the abdomen with safety pins. 
As warm weather approaches, the heavy blanket 
should be substituted for a lighter one, and in sum- 
mer its use may be dispensed with entirely, and a 
light fly-blanket employed in case the animal is 
of a color to fade on exposure to the sun. 

Care of the colt's feet. — The feet of the growing 
colt should receive much attention. If left to 
nature, the feet will not always grow out full, strong 
and perfect in form. On stone or gravel soil, the foot 
wears off as fast as necessary to keep it in fair pro- 
portions, but the wearing is not even. For this 
reason the colt's feet should be carefully inspected 
at least once each month. It is often necessary 
to shorten the toes. This should be done with a 
rasp, which is the only instrument that should be 
used for this purpose. As a rule, when the toes are 
kept short, the quarters will care for themselves. 
The frog needs special attention, for if it gets out 
of contact with the bearing surface, the foot will 
very rapidly lose its shape, the heels will contract 



364 Care of the Colt in Training 

and the walls at the quarters become brittle, weak 
and easily split both from above and below. When 
a split occurs from above, it is especially difficult 
to stop without blistering or firing; hence it is im- 
portant to protect the walls. Keep the toes of the 
proper length, the walls rounded at the ground 
surface, and the frog prominent. 

It often happens that a piece is broken from the 
side of the hoof, throwing the weight of the body 
in such a way as to bring a strain upon the joints 
of the leg, which often causes deformity and disease. 
When such a break occurs, the hoof should be leveled 
with a rasp. Equal distribution of weight-bear- 
ing and other functional activities is possible only 
when the form of the foot and the direction of the 
limbs are correct. Any deviation from the proper 
standing position will cause a proportionate over- 
taxing of certain parts, resulting in unsoundness. 

Sound feet are best produced by feeding nutri- 
tious food. Sudden changes of the food, periods 
of sickness, exposure to cold, damp weather for 
months at a time, all have an injurious effect upon 
the feet. While the food and climate influence 
the rate of growth of the hoof, on the average it 
will grow one third of an inch a month. Hind 
hoofs grow faster than fore hoofs and unshod ones 
faster than shod. Thus if the top of the hoof is 
injured at the toe, it will take something like twelve 
months to grow out, if at the side, six to eight, 



Grooming and Care of the Teeth 365 

and if at the heel three to five months, depending 
somewhat on the length of the hoof. 

Care of the coWs teeth. — The teeth of the grow- 
ing colt should be watched closely to see that they 
appear regular and uniform. Soon after foaling, 
or usually within two weeks, the central pair of 
incisors makes its appearance in both the upper 
and lower jaws; the second or intermediate pair 
appears in two to four weeks, and the third pair or 
corners makes its appearance about the fifth or 
sixth month of age. Colts often sufi^er from teeth- 
ing and it is very important that they receive extra 
attention at this time or they will run down in 
flesh. Because of the increasing size of the colt's 
jaws, at about two years and nine months of age 
the central pair of milk teeth is replaced by per- 
manent ones in both the lower and upper jaw; at 
about three years and nine months the intermediate 
pair is replaced, and at about four years and nine 
months the corner pair of milk teeth is replaced by 
the permanent ones. It is very important that 
the teeth be closely observed at this time, as the 
first or milk teeth often persist, causing the second 
or permanent teeth to grow in crooked or irregular. 
To avoid this, the persistent milk teeth should be 
removed with forceps. 

The upper jaw of the horse is somewhat wider 
than the lower and the teeth are not exactly op- 
posite, thus the wear is not equally distributed and 



366 Care of the Colt in Training 

as a result sharp edges are often left unworn on the 
inside of the lower molars and on the outside of 
the upper, which may cut or lacerate the tongue or 
cheeks, which become sore. When the horse attempts 
to eat, the food irritates the sores and he will not 
feed well. This condition can readily be felt by 
the hand, and these sharp edges when found should 
be taken down with a guarded rasp. 

In all cases in which a horse quids his food, slob- 
bers or otherwise evinces pain in mastication, as 
shown by holding his head to one side while chewing, 
the teeth should be carefully examined. In addition 
to not feeding well, a horse whose teeth have unduly 
sharp edges, or which are otherwise irregular, is likely 
to drive badly, to pull to one side, not to bear on the 
bit, or to bear on too hard, to toss the head and 
start suddenly when a tender spot is touched. 

ACCIDENTS LIKELY TO OCCUR IN TRAINING 

While in training, the colt is more or less exposed 
to injury. The amount and severity of injury will 
depend much on the activity of the animal as well 
as on the methods of the driver. The high-strung, 
nervous and refractory colt is more likely to be in- 
jured than a mild, teachable one, and the driver 
who is careless and indifferent, or who uses severe 
methods, is more likely to cause injury than one who 
exercises the utmost care at all times. 



Injured Knee 367 

The following list contains the more important 
of the common injuries that a colt is likely to sus- 
tain in training, and the suggestions given are in- 
tended largely as a first aid until more expert ad- 
vice can be obtained, particularly if the injury is a 
severe one. 

Bruised knee. — In training a colt the knees are 
very much exposed to injury, particularly if the 
double or single safety (p. 208) is used. It is there- 
fore very important that knee-pads be provided 
whenever the safety rope is attached, though even 
then the knee may be bruised in case the fall is a 
severe one. The injury may vary in extent from 
a mere scratch to a serious fracture of the bones; 
in any case it should receive immediate attention, 
as a slight bruise, if not cared for, may result in a 
permanent enlargement of the knee-joint, which is 
often exceedingly difficult to reduce, sometimes 
necessitating bhstering and firing. In case the knee 
is simply bruised, bathe it freely with warm water 
night and morning, then put on a muslin bandage 
which has been soaked in a liniment composed of 
two ounces of tincture of arnica to a pint of cold 
water. 

Broken knee. — This term is variously applied 
to injuries in which the skin is slightly abraded or 
broken, to others in which the tendons and sheaths, 
the ligaments and even the bones may be involved. 
If the skin is simply abraded, the hair scraped off 



368 Care of the Colt in Training 

and a little blood oozing from the surface, bathe the 
parts freely with warm water to which a little car- 
bolic acid has been added, about one tablespoon- 
ful to the quart. Next dress with a white lotion 
made as follows : Zinc sulphate, one ounce, lead 
acetate, one ounce, and water, one quart, to which 
add one teaspoonful of carbohc acid to increase 
its antiseptic properties. 

Where the skin is cut, bathe thoroughly to re- 
move dirt and foreign substance, clip away the hair, 
bring the edges together and apply a muslin band- 
age around the knee. In all cases the leg must 
be kept as free from motion as possible. To do this, 
tie up the animal's head so he cannot lie down for 
a few days, and where he will not be likely to strike 
his injured knee against the manger. If pus forms, 
free exit must be allowed, and hot baths applied 
until it subsides, after which the heaUng process 
may be encouraged. A pad or compress made of 
wool or tow, covered with the white of egg and placed 
over the wound, and a wet pad bandaged Hghtly 
over this will exclude the dirt. 

Bruised fetlock. — The young horse very frequently 
interferes with the hind feet in such a way that a 
hind foot strikes the opposite fetlock, often bruis- 
ing, abrading or scratching the surface. This is 
very likely to happen when the colt is fatigued or 
improperly shod. Injury is sometimes caused by 
a poorly clinched nail. The injury is usually in- 



Accidents of the Foot 369 

dicated by the colt flinching, or if badly struck he 
may carry the injured leg off the ground for several 
steps. Rest and proper shoeing is the best remedy. 
If the horse continues to interfere, boots must be 
placed on the fetlocks to protect them from injury 
(p. 114). If the part is badly bruised and sore, bathe 
freely with cold water and dress with cold com- 
presses. 

Calking. — This is the name applied to injury at 
the top of the hoof or coronet and is usually in- 
flicted by the shoe of the other foot or by the shoe 
of another horse. It is of quite common occurrence 
among colts in training, particularly when there is 
much short turning. As a rule, when the colt gets 
settled into a regular system of action, this trouble 
will cease; if not, boots must be worn to protect the 
exposed parts. If the parts are seriously injured, 
remove any jagged edge, bathe freely with warm 
water and apply tincture of arnica or iodine. Keep 
the wound clean, and bathe three times a day with 
white lotion (p. 368). 

Puncture of the foot and frog. — This may be caused 
by the colt stepping on a nail or other sharp object, 
or it may be due to the nails not being properly 
driven when shod. Occasionally the nails are actu- 
ally driven into the sensitive laminae lining the in- 
terior of the horny substance of the foot. When 
the sensitive sole is injured, inflammation usually 
occurs, which results in the formation of pus. This 

2b 



370 Care of the Colt in Training 

may work its way up and form a running sore at the 
top of the hoof. Any injury of this kind, whatever 
its cause, should be promptly treated, as it may re- 
sult seriously, sometimes producing lockjaw. 

The injured spot must be found, and if still re- 
maining, the object removed. Wash with an anti- 
septic and rest the animal until it heals. On the 
other hand, if inflammation has begun, freely pare out 
the puncture, so as to afford an easy exit for any 
matter which may form. Thoroughly bathe the 
part and soak the foot in warm water for one hour. 
Keep the parts clean and dress with an ointment. 
Perfect rest must be given until the sole grows out 
again. 

Puncture of the frog is similar to that of the sole 
and requires similar treatment. When taken in 
time it yields to careful treatment more readily 
than puncture of the sole. On the other hand, 
if it is neglected, it is likely to lead to disease of the 
frog, and canker may result. 

Wounds and stahs. — The refractory colt is often 
wounded while in training. The wound may be 
clean cut, in which the edges are smooth ; lacerated, 
in which the skin is torn or broken, with edges more 
or less ragged and uneven; and punctured, in wliich 
the depth is greater than the entrance. The treat- 
ment will, of course, vary according to the class. In 
general, however, attention should first be directed 
to cleaning the wound from all foreign bodies, such 



Dressing Wounds 371 

as splinters, gravel and the like. This may be done 
by permitting lukewarm water to fall in a stream 
oyer it, as the surface should be touched as little 
as possible. The water should be made antisep- 
tic by adding one tablespoonful of carbolic acid 
to each quart. In case there is much bleeding, 
immediate attention must be given to stopping it. 
This may be done with astringents, cold, or pres- 
sure. Common salt is a very good astringent for 
stopping a hemorrhage. Cotton, tow or oakum 
bound over the wound is also good. 

In case the wound is deep, it may be necessary 
to hold the parts together by stitches. Separate 
stitches answer better than continuous ones. In 
case a bandage is used to hold the parts together, 
it should be adjusted very evenly and extra care 
exercised not to draw it so tightly as to obstruct 
the circulation. The bandage should be applied 
so as to encourage union from the bottom, and pre- 
vent accumulation of pus. 

During the following days, syringe the wound out 
once a day with an antiseptic wash made by adding 
one tablespoonful of carbolic acid to a quart of 
water. The wound may be gently cleaned with a 
soft sponge and castile or carbolic soap and hot 
water. If proud flesh forms, it must he held in 
check by applications of some caustic, such as nitrate 
of silver. 

In treating wounds it is very important to keep 



372 Care of the Colt in Training 

the animal as quiet as possible. While in some parts 
a certain degree of motion cannot be avoided, an 
endeavor should be made to lessen it to the mini- 
mum. In some cases the colt will have to be tied 
up to prevent his moving, while in others it will 
be necessary to place a cradle about his neck to 
prevent him from gnawing the wound with his 
teeth (p. 308). 

Sprains. — In training the colt, sprains of the 
muscles, tendons and ligaments are of rather com- 
mon occurrence. Severe lameness usually comes 
on suddenly soon after the injury. The joint be- 
comes inflamed, swollen and tender, and is often 
moved with much difficulty. The animal should 
be kept quiet on a level floor. Hot or cold appli- 
cations should be applied to the parts ; hot water 
if there is severe pain, to soften, sooth and relax 
the parts, and cold apphcations in the form of water 
or bags of ice, if there is inflammation. If the pain 
is severe, a warm application of one quart of water 
with four ounces tincture of opium and two ounces 
of acetate of lead added, made several times dail}'', 
will prove beneficial. If the parts remain large 
and swollen after the inflammation is reduced, tinc- 
ture of iodine should be rubbed in twice daily. 
If this fails to reduce the part, try a fight bfister. 
A part that has been severely sprained should 
have a long period of rest, as complete recovery 
from a sprain is a very slow process. 



Puffs and Galls 373 

Wind-galls, wind-puffs, blood-spavin, bog-spavin 
and thorough-pin. — These appear as soft, rather 
symmetrical bunches, wind-galls occurring on the 
back of the fetlock joint; wind-puffs along the ten- 
dons, usually on either side of the leg, but more par- 
ticularly on the outside just above the fetlock 
joint, between the back tendons and the bones ; 
blood-spavin and bog-spavin in front and a little 
inward of the hock; and thorough-pin is located at 
the back and on the top of the hock in that part 
known as the "hollows." They often make their 
appearance on the young horses as the result of 
strains due to heavy pulling, fast driving, jumping 
and the like. The treatment is to cause the swelling 
to absorb. This can usually be done by hand- 
rubbing, followed by pressure and cold, applied by 
means of wet bandages. An elastic bandage is 
good. Later iodine ointment may be rubbed in 
once a day. A small amount of red blister rubbed 
over the growth sometimes proves beneficial, but 
a severe one should not be used. 

Capped hocks. — The colt in training frequently 
injures his hocks in kicking or by striking them 
across the cross-bar, which results in a growth over 
the parts, known as capped hocks. Sometimes the 
injury is brought on in the act of lying down and 
getting up. The treatment is similar to that sug- 
gested for sprains (p. 372). 

Harness galls. — The young horse in training is 



374 Care of the Colt in Training 

very subject to harness galls, particularly along 
the shoulders under the collar, at the back under 
the saddle and under the tail, caused by the crupper. 
The parts are soft and tender and sweat easily from 
the excitement of training. In this condition the 
colt chafes under the harness, especially if it is hard 
and poorly fitting. This chafing causes abrasions 
of the skin, which prepare the way for abscesses or 
chronic blemishes unless attended to very promptly. 
This may involve only the skin or it may work down 
into the muscle and even the bone. When the 
ligament is involved there may be a dry slough, 
commonly called ''sit-fasts." 

Abrasions are best prevented by bringing the 
young animal gradually into working shape, so as to 
harden the muscles and toughen the skin. The 
harness should be well fitted, cleaned and oiled 
to remove all dirt and to make it soft and pliable 
(p. 345). The parts likely to be abraded should be 
cleaned and brushed free of dirt. 

In treating the sore, bathe the parts freely in warm 
water, then apply an astringent, such as cold salt 
water ; carbolic acid and glycerin, one part of the for- 
mer to fifteen of the latter; one pint of alcohol in 
which are well shaken the whites of two eggs ; a 
sugar of lead lotion made by adding one teaspoonful 
of the lead to a quart of water; or a nitrate of silver 
solution, one half teaspoonful to the quart of water. 
Continue until cured. 



Care of Chafed Legs 375 

If a horn-like slough or sit-fast has developed, it 
must be carefully dissected out and the wound treated 
with antiseptics. Allow the animal rest until the 
wound is healed. 

Chafed legs. — It often happens that the fric- 
tion caused by improperly fitting hopples and boots 
chafes the legs, and constant irritation causes the 
horse much pain. It is the common practice of 
horsemen to dust the injured parts with lampblack 
or to apply charcoal and boracic acid. The trotting 
horsemen assert excellent results from the use of 
these materials. 



INDEX 



Accidents, blood-spavin, 373 ; bog- 
spavin, 373 ; broken knee, 367 ; 
bruised fetlock, 368 ; bruised 
knee, 367 ; calking, 369 ; capped 
hocks, 373 ; in training, 366 ; 
sprains, 372 ; stabs, 370 ; thor- 
oughpin, 373 ; to foot, 369 ; wind- 
galls, 373; wind-pufTs, 373; 
wounds, 370 ; 

Acquainting, with buggy, 77 ; with 
objects of fear, 85 ; with umbrel- 
las, etc., 87. 

Action, 132 ; bitting for, 139 ; bit- 
ting to improve, 134 ; brushing, 
145 ; cause of heavy going, 133 ; 
clicking, 143 ; conformation 
favoring, 133 ; conditioning to 
improve, 142 ; condition favor- 
able, 134 ; curb-bit, 136 ; cutting, 
145 ; defective, corrected by 
shoeing, 141 ; exercise improves, 
147 ; faulty, 143 ; faulty bitting, 
146 ; faulty causes, 144, 145 ; 
faulty overcoming, 144, 146 ; 
feeding to improve, 143 ; forg- 
ing, 143 ; high, 134 ; importance 
of a good mouth, 136 ; improved 
by curb-ljit, 137 ; interfering, 145; 
length of hoof, 141 ; over-reach- 
ing, 143 ; shoeing to improve, 
139, 146; striking, 145; weight 
on shoe, 141. 

Age, by teeth, 364 ; to train coacher, 
109 ; to train foal, 27 ; to train 
horses for work, 46 ; to train to 
jump, 174 ; to train roadster, 109; 
to train saddle horse, 150 ; to 
train trotter, 109. 

American Saddle Horse Breeders' 
Association, 163. 



Appliances, 188 ; anti-switching, 
267 ; bridle twitch, 200 ; caves- 
son halter, 196 ; combination 
bridle, 201 ; excelsior bridle, 193 
fence-jumping, 277 ; gag, 200 
Galvayne's training harness, 219 
guy rope, 201 ; Hackamore bridle 
196; halter-twitch, 198; head- 
stall twitch, 199; hobbles, 206 
kicking harness, 204 ; kicking- 
reins, 202 ; kicking strap, 202 
lead rope, 201 ; lip-twitch, 197 
muzzle, 308 ; neck-cradle, 308 
pulley bridle, 193 ; pulley bridle 
modified, 195 ; Rarey's leg-strap 
207 ; Rarey's safety harness, 208 
Rarey's throwing harness, 212 
rearing twitch, 200 ; rope halter 
189; rope throwing, 216; shackles 
221 ; straight-jacket, 221 ; twitch 
191 ; war bridle, 191 ; war bridle 
modified, 192 ; Yankee bridle 
189 ; Yankee bridle, modified 
190 ; wooden-gag, 200. 

Army horse training, 177. 

Artillery horse training, 177. 

Association of ideas, 3. 

Automobile, familiar with, 239. 

Back-band, 337. 

Backing, by pressure, 39 ; difficult, 
causes, 263 ; difficult, overcome, 
263 ; foal, 38 ; in stall, 297 ; in 
stall overcome, 298 ; vehicle, 80 ; 
when to teach foal, 38 ; mth lines 
and pressure, 81. 

Back-strap, 336. 

"Back," teaching foal, 42; teach- 
ing hoi'se, 67 ; what it stands for, 
100. 



377 



378 



Index 



Balancing, 139, 303. 

Balker, how produced, 95. 

Balking, 249 ; causes, 249 ; over- 
come, 250, 272. 

Bandaging legs, 126. 

Bar-bit, 320 ; half check, 320. 

Bedding, eating, 312. 

Beery bit, 323. 

Bit, 56, 318 ; bar, plain, 320 ; Beery 
323 ; chain, 320 ; chain center 
320; classes, 319; coach, 320 
curb, 136 ; Detroit, 320 ; fitting 
60 ; fitting curb, 137 ; grasping 
279 ; humane, 320 ; Imperial 
320; importance of fitting, 318 
J. I. C, 320; jointed cushion 
320 ; kinds, 320 ; Liverpool coach 
320 ; mouthing, 320 ; nodine 
320; Norton, 320; perfection 
320 ; plain jointed, 320 ; Racine 
320; riding, 151, 320, Rockwell 
320; Sanborn, 320; straight 
cushion, 320 ; success, 320 
teaching wild horse uses of, 233 
training, 58 ; tongue lolling, 320 
triumph, 320 ; U. S. Army, 320 
victor, 320 ; wind-sucking, 320 
Wilson 320 ; w-wire, 320. 

Biting, 292 ; causes, 292 ; over- 
come, 292. 

Bitting, to curb-bit, 139 ; first time, 
59 ; the horse, 57 ; to improve 
action, 134 ; refractory horse, 
233 ; stubborn horse, 233 ; uses 
of bit, 61 ; wild horse, 233. 

Bitting-harness, 60, 139; "elastic" 
reins , 62 ; " fixed ' ' reins, 62 ; "run- 
ning" reins, 62. 

Blanket, saddle, 153. 

Blanketed, 121. 

Blanket-fly, 347. 

Blanketing, advantages, 362 ; and 
clipping, 361 ; the trotter, 126. 

Blankets, tearing, 307 ; tearing, 
overcome, 308. 

Blinds, 325 ; on training bridle, 
9. 



Blood-spavin, 373. 

Body-brush, 359. 

Bog-spavin, 373. 

Boils, shoe, 311. 

Boots, 114. 

Boring, 281 ; causes, 282 ; over- 
come, 282. 

Boston hold-back, 338. 

Brass fixtures, 326. 

Breaking, 265. 

Breaking vs. training, 1. 

Breast harness, 335. 

Breeching, 338; "Pennsylvania," 
338. 

Breed, on training, 47. 

Bridle, 318; adjusting, 59; blinds, 
325 ; check-rein, 327 ; combina- 
tion, 201 ; difficult, 291 ; ex- 
celsior, 193 ; fixtures, 326 ; Hack- 
amore, 196 ; pulley, 193 ; pulley, 
modified, 195 ; riding, 151 ; 
stripping, 283 ; tassels, 326 ; too 
tight, 59 ; too loose, 59 ; war, 
191 ; war, modified, 192 ; Yankee, 
189; Yankee, modified, 190. 

Bridle-twitch, 200. 

Bridling first time, 59. 

Broken knee, 367. 

Bruised fetlock, 368. Bruised knee, 
367. 

Brushing, 145. 

Brush system, 119, 124. 

Bucking, 276 ; causes, 276 ; over- 
come, 276. 

Buck-jumping, 276. 

Buggy, acquainting vnth., 77. 

Calking, 369. 

Canter, 160 ; training, 171 ; three- 
footed, 161. 

Cantle, 151. 

Capped hocks, 373. 

Care in training, 349. 

Caressing \ni\\ whip, S3. 

Cars, familiar with, 240. 

Cart, familiarizing with, 77 ; for 
training, 74 ; how to make, 74. 



Index 



379 



Catching a wild horse, 223 ; foal, 

28, 29. 
Catch, troublesome, 285. 
Cavalry horse training, 177, 178. 
Cavesson halter, 196. 
Centerpieces, 326. 
Chafed legs, 375. 
Chain bit, 320. 
Chain center bit, 320. 
Check-rein, 327 ; disadvantages, 328. 
Children handling foal, 31. 
Children's pony, 91. 
Circus tricks, 183. 
Classes of saddle horses, 167. 
Clay mud pack, 127. 
CHcking, 143. 

Clipping and blanketing, 361. 
Coach bit, 320. 
Coach, horse training, 108. 
Coacher, action, 132 ; bitting to 

improve action, 134 ; brushing, 

145 ; clicking, 143 ; conditioning 
to improve action, 142 ; curb-bit, 
136 ; cutting, 145 ; defective 
action corrected, 142 ; driving, 
129 ; exercise improves action, 
148 ; faulty action, 143 ; forging, 
143 ; high action, 134 ; interfer- 
ing, 145 ; over-reaching, 143 ; 
shoeing to improve action, 139, 

146 ; striking, 145 ; training yard, 
111. 

Collar, 73, 331 ; adjusting, 334 ; 
fitting, 334 ; humane, 332 ; Irish, 
333 ; metal, 331 ; pneumatic, 
331 ; Sweeny, 333. 

Combination bridle, 201. 

"Come here," teaching horse, 55. 

Commands, teaching, 65. 

Confidence of foal, 31. 

Conformation for action, 133. 

Confusing a colt, 32. 

Cradle, neck, 308. 

Cribbing, 299 ; causes, 299 ; over- 
come, 299 ; see Wind-sucking. 

Crowding, 282 ; overcome, 283. 

"Cruiser," 241. 



Crupper, 336. 

Cruppering, 70; difficult, 292. 

Curb-bit, 136, 320 ; advantages, 
137; disadvantages, 137; famil- 
iarizing the horse, 138. 

Curry-comb, 359. 

Cutting, 145. 

Daily program for a trotter, 125. 

Detroit bit, 320. 

Development, and exercise, 350 ; 
and feeding, 352 ; and grooming, 
357. 

Difficult, to back, 263 ; to crupper, 
292 ; to bridle, 291 ; to groom, 
288 ; to drench, 315 ; to harness, 
290 ; to mount, 274 ; to lead in 
doorway, 298; to shoe, 300. 

Domestication of horse, 30. 

Double, hitching, 84. 

Draft horse, how to drive, 94 ; 
"steady," 96; signals, 96; train- 
ing for, 93. 

Drenching, 315, 

Driving, 68, 129 ; careless effect, 
131 ; efficient effect, 132 ; foal 
with lines, 40 ; guide left, 65 ; 
guide right, 65 ; holding lines, 
131 ; horse with lines, 63 ; how 
acquired, 130; position of lines, 
132 ; surcingle, 64 ; when to 
teach foal, 40. 

Dumb jockey, 139. 

Earbobs, 326. 

Early training, advantages, 110, 
117; effect on coacher, 110; 
effect on disposition, 117; effect 
on roadster, 110 ; effect on trotter, 
110; in harness, 118; objections, 
43; value, 42. 

Educating, foal to back, 38 ; a loose 
horse to follow, 55 ; by the 
special senses, 7 ; to come under 
shafts, 82. 

"Elastic" reins, 62. 

Endurance, increasing, 124. 



380 



Index 



Examine the horse, 49. 

Excelsior bridle, 193. 

Exercise, and development, 350 ; 

improves action, 147 ; irregular, 

147 ; value of, 350. 
Eyes, 49. 

Familiarize with vehicle, 77. 

"Family broke," 90. 

"Family horse," 90. 

Fast walking, advantages, 92 ; train 
to, 91. 

Fatigue, 116, 122 ; impairs memory, 
6. 

Faulty action, 143. 

Fear, 85 ; and sight, 9. 

Feed for one day, 354. 

Feeding, colt, 353 ; and develop- 
ment, 352 ; night ration, 355 ; 
order of, 355 ; requires training, 
7 ; the trotter, 125 ; to improve 
action, 143. 

Feeling and fright, 8. 

Feeling vs. smelling, 8. 

Feet, 49, 101 ; advantages of han- 
dling, 106 ; care, 127, 363 ; gen- 
tling, 101, 301, 304. 

Fence jumping, 277 ; overcome, 277. 

Fetlock bruised, 368. 

First lessons short, 33. 

Fitting, collar, 334 ; halter on foal, 
36. 

Five-gaited horse, 167. 

"Fixed" reins, 62. 

Fly-blankets, 347. 

Fly-killer, 347. 

Fly-net, 347. 

Foal, training, 26. 

Following when loose, 54. 

Foot, accidents, 369; gentling, 301, 
304 ; gentling a front foot, 102 ; 
a hind foot, 104 ; handling, 101 ; 
holding a hind foot, 105 ; how to 
pick up, 103 ; injuring, 313 ; 
trimming, 140 ; shoeing to im- 
prove action, 140. 

Forging, 143. 



Fox trot, 165 ; training, 173. 
Frightened horse, never whip, 89. 
Frog, puncture, 369. 

Gag, wooden, 200. 

Gait, diagonal, 160. 

Gaited horse, 167. 

Gaits, 158 ; training to, 168. 

Gallop, 160; hand, 161. 

Galls, harness, 373. 

Galvayne's appliance in use, 221 ; 
method, 12 ; training harness, 
219; tail rope, 219. 

"Gee," teaching a horse, 97; 
what it stands for, 100. 

Gentling, a front foot, 301 ; a hind 
foot, 304; a wild horse, 226, 
229. 

"Get up," teaching foal, 42 ; teach- 
ing horse, 67 ; what it stands for, 
100. 

Girth, saddle, 153. 

Gnashing teeth, 280. 

Gorging grain, 315. 

Grain, gorging, 315. 

Grasping bit, 279 ; causes, 279 ; 
overcome, 279. 

Groom, 357; difficult to, 288; diffi- 
cult to, overcome, 288. 

Grooming, advantage, 360 ; tools, 
359 ; and development, 357. 

Guiding by legs, 158. 

Gun-fire, training, 177. 

Guy rope, 201. 

Habits, bad, 4 ; easily formed, 4 ; 

good, 4 ; transmitted, 4. 
Hackamore bridle, 196. 
Hackney coach horse, 4. 
Halter, cavesson, 196 ; fitting on 

foal, 36; leather for the horse, 

51 ; for colt, 35 ; web, 35. 
Haltering a loose horse, 227. 
Halter-pulling, 269 ; causes, 267 ; 

confirmed, 271 ; overcome, 270. 
Halter, rope, 189. 
Halter-twitch, 198. 



Index 



381 



Hame-tug, 336. 

Hand-gallop, 161. 

"Hands," how acquired, 130; in 
driving, 130. 

Handling, colt, 26; foal, 28; feet, 101 ; 
horse, 44^ 50 ; vicious horse, 242 ; 
wild horse, 226. 

Harness, 188, 317 ; back-strap, 336 ; 
bit, 318; bitting, 60; bits, 322; 
blinds, 325 ; breast, 335 ; breech- 
ing, 338; bridle, 318; caring for, 
344 ; check-rein, 327 ; choosing, 
343 ; cleaning, 345 ; collars, 331 ; 
combination bridle, 201 ; crupper, 
336 ; difficult to, 290 ; early train- 
ing in, 118 ; excelsior bridle, 193 ; 
galls, 373 ; Galvayne's training, 
219; Hackamore bridle, 196; 
hame-tug, 336; head-stall, 325; 
hobbles, 206; hold-backs, 338; 
kicking-reins, 202; kicking-strap, 
202; leather, 343; lines, .329; 
lying down in, 312 ; oiling, 345 ; 
pulley bridle, 193 ; Rarey's safety, 
208; Rarey's throwing, 212; 
repairs, 347 ; room, 346 ; rope 
halter, 189; rubbing, 311; rub- 
bing overcome, 311 ; saddle, 337; 
shackles, 221 ; self-punishing, 
205 ; straight-jacket, 221 ; sweat 
pads, 335 ; trimmings useless, 
343 ; twitch, 197 ; Yankee bridle, 
189 ; war bridle, 191 ; web, 343. 

Harnessing, 68, 317; collar, 73; 
cruppering, 70 ; difficult, 290 ; 
difficult to overcome, 290 ; diffi- 
cult to bridle, 291 ; difficult to 
crupper, 292 ; examine shoulders, 
73; fitting collar, 334; kind of 
harness, 72 ; parts likely to 
abrade, 74 ; placing harness over 
back, 72 ; poling, 69 ; .pressure, 
69 ; smelling harness, 73 ; a wild 
horse, 234 ; work horse, 72. 

"Haw," teaching a horse, 97 ; what 

it stands for, 100. 
Head, tossing and shaking, 280. 



Head-stall, 325. 

Headstall-twitch, 199. 

Hearing, 49; confusion, 9; requires 

training, 9. 
Heavy draft, training for, 93. 
Herds of wild horses, 6. 
High-school horse, 167 ; training, 181. 
Hitching, 68, 78; double, 84; 

kicking-straps, 78 ; single, 74 ; 

tandem, 98. 
Hitching-rack, 45. 
Hobbles, 206. 
Hocks, capped, 373. 
Hold-backs, 338. 
Horse training, 44. 
Humane, bit, 320; collar, 332. 
Humiliating the horse, 248. 
Hunter, 167. 

Imperial bit, 320. 
Inclosure for training, 48. 
Indi\aduality on training, 47. 
Intelligence, of the horse, 3 ; of 

mule, 7. 
Interfering, 145. 
Irish collar, 333. 

Jibbing, 252 ; causes, 252 ; over- 
come, 253. 

J. I. C. bit, 320. 

Jockey yoke, 342. 

Jump, 166 ; age to train, 174 ; 
training while young, 174. 

Jointed cushion bit, 320. 

Jumping fences, 277. 

Kicking, 254, 295; causes, 254; 
in stable, 295 ; overcome, 255. 
Kicking-harness 204. 
Kicking-reins, 202. 
Kicking-strap, 202. 
Kicking-straps, 78. 
Kimball Jackson, 328. 
Knee, bruised, 367 ; broken, 367. 

Lassoing a wild horse, 223. 
Leader, 97. 



382 



Index 



Leaders, how to train, 97 ; kinds, 
97. 

Leading, foal with loin-hitch, 38 ; 
the foal, 34 ; the horse, 51 ; when 
to teach foal, 34 ; wild horses, 
231 ; with halter, 45. 

Leather collar, 333. 

Legs, bandaging, 126 ; chafed, 375 ; 
clipping hair from, 360 ; guiding 
with, 158; leading, 162, 171; 
pressure of, 157. 

Leg-strap, Rarey's, 207. 

Lessons, in regular order, 34 ; use- 
ful, 33 ; short, 33. 

Light horse training, 108. 

Lines, 329 ; arranging on foal, 40 ; 
holding, 131 ; multiple hitch, 330 ; 
under tail, 268. 

Lip striking, 279. 

Lip-twitch, 197. 

Liverpool coach bit, 320. 

Loin-hitch, how made, 37 ; in 
teaching foal to lead, 37 ; on 
horse, 52. 

Loose horse, following, 54 ; halter- 
ing, 227. 

Loose ring strap, 45. 

Lope, 160. 

Lugging, 281 ; causes, 281 ; over- 
come, 281. 

Ljdng down, cow-fashion, 311 ; in 
harness, 312. 

Mane-comb, 359. 
Martingale, 338. 
Master, of the horse, 2 ; personal 

habits, 2 ; qualities of, 2. 
Memorizing, and flocking together, 

6 ; and number of ideas, 6 ; both 

sides of the horse, 6 ; fatigue, 6 ; 

imitation, 7 ; out of condition, 7 ; 

rapidity depends on, 5 ; while 

young, 5. 
Memory, good, 4 ; how trained, 4 ; 

in foal, 27 ; repetition, 5 ; vi\'id- 

ness of impression, 4. 
Mental capabilities of the horse, 3. 



Metal, collar, 331. 

Methods, effective, 13 ; Old World, 

15; rapid vs. slow, 12; safe, 15; 

selecting, 12; of training, 11. 
Mounting, 106, 155; difficult, 274; 

steadying, 107. 
Mouth, before bitting, 56; "hard," 

57 ; how to examine, 57 ; in good 

condition, 49 ; importance of a 

good one, 57; "spoiled," 57; 

"tender," 57; unresponsive, 63. 
Mouthing, bit, 320. 
Mouths, difference in, 136. 
Movements of foal, 28. 
Mules, intelligence, 7. 
Multiple hitches, 98. 
Muzzle, 308. 

Natural law, 28. 

Neck-cradle, 308. 

Nervous types of foals, 30. 

Nets, fly, 347. 

" Night kicking," 295 ; causes, 295; 
overcome, 295. 

"Nodder," 173. 

Nodine bit, 320. 

Noise, 85 ; acquainting with, 86. 

"Noise kicking," see "Night kick- 
ing." 

Noose-twitch, 197. 

Norton bit, 320. 

Obedience, 16 ; and reward, 17. 

Objects, acquainting with, 87; 
of early training, 27 ; of fear, 85 ; 
strange, 237; of training, 11. 

Old World methods, 15. 

Orders, few, 16 ; make them under- 
stood, 15; patience, 16; simple, 
16. 

Over-reaching, 143. 

Pace, slow, 165. 

Painful lessons long remembered, 4. 
Pawing, 309 ; overcome, 309. 
"Pennsylvania" breecluug, 338. 
Perfection bit, 320. 



Index 



383 



Permanent methods, 13. 

Personal influence in training, 21. 

Petting the horse, 17. 

Physicked, 121. 

Picketing, 179. 

Plain jointed bit, 320. 

Plunging, 264 ; causes, 264. 

Pneumatic collar, 331. 

Poling, 69 ; advantages, 71 ; legs, 
72 ; wild horse, 229. 

Polo game, 179. 

Pommel, 151. 

Pony for children, 91. 

Position, while harnessing, 45 ; 
while leading a horse, 44. 

Prancing, 265. 

Pressure, 69; in backing, 81. 

Principles, exaggerate horses' ideas, 
22 ; fatigue, 23 ; obedience, 24 ; 
of training, 22 ; study horse, 24 ; 
train while young, 22 ; use ap- 
pliance to give advantage, 24 ; 
various methods, 23. 

Program training a trotter, 125. 

Pulley bridle, 193 ; modified, 195 ; 
three ring, 194. 

PulHng away, 282. 

Punishing harnesses, 204. 

Punishment, and the voice, 18 ; and 
the whip, 19 ; in training, 17. 

Quarters, examine, 73. 
Quarters-hitch, how to make, 53 ; 
on horse, 53. 

Race, conditioning, 128 ; driving, 
129 ; examining before, 127 ; 
preparing for, 129 ; training for, 
127 ; working out for, 129. 

Racine bit, 320. 

Racing bit, 320. 

Rack, 163; training, 173. 

Rapid methods, 12 ; effective, 13 ; 
safe, 15. 

Rarey's, double safety, 210 ; double 
safety and guy rope, 209 ; leg- 
strap, 207 ; method, 12 ; safety 



harness, 208 ; safety in use, 210 ; 
single safety, 210; throwing har- 
ness, 212 ; throwing harness in 
use, 215. 

Ration, daily, 353. 

Rearing, 264, 276; causes, 264, 
276 ; overcome, 264, 276. 

Rearing-twitch, 200. 

Refractory horse, hitched, 235 ; 
subduing, 236. 

Refusing to stand, 284. 

Repair-kit, 347. 

Repetition, 14 ; and memory, 5. 

Reward, and taste, 10; and the 
whip, 19 ; food, 17 ; in training, 
17 ; patting, 17 ; voice, 17. 

Riding bit, 151, 320; bridle, 151; 
saddle, 151. 

Right, make easy, 11. 

Roadster, action, 132 ; bitting to 
improve action, 134 ; brushing, 
145 ; clicking, 143, conditioning 
to improve action, 142 ; cutting, 
145 ; defective action corrected, 
142 ; driving, 129 ; exercise im- 
proves action, 148; faulty action, 
143 ; forging, 143 ; interfering, 
145 ; over-reaching, 143 ; shoe- 
ing to improve action, 139, 146 ; 
striking, 145 ; training, 108 ; 
training while young, 110. 

Rockwell bit, 320. 

Rolling, 306 ; causes, 306 ; over- 
come, 306. 

Rope-halter, 189. 

Rope-tail, 220. 

Rope-throwing, 216. 

Rubbing harness, 311. 

Run, 160. 

Running away, 260 ; causes, 260 ; 
overcome, 261. 

Running back, 262 ; causes, 262 ; 
overcome, 262. 

Running foal about, 31. 

"Running" reins, 62. 

Running walk, 164; training, 
172, 



384 



Index 



Saddle, 151, 337; cantle, 151; 
fitting, 151 ; men's, 151 ; pommel, 
151 ; women's, 151 ; stirrup, 152. 

Saddle-blanket, 153. 

Saddle-girth, 153. 

Saddle horse, army training, 177 
Breeders' Association, 163 ; canter 
160 ; circus tricks, 183 ; classes 
167; "dog trot," 173; foxtrot 
165; foxtrot training, 173 ; gaits 
158; gallop, 160; guiding, 158 
hand gallop, 161 ; high-school 
training, 181; "jiggle," 170 
jump, 166; jump, training, 174 
lope, 160 ; mounting, 155, 156 
157 ; picketing, 179 ; polo train- 
ing, 179 ; pressure of legs, 157 
rack, 163 ; rack, training, 173 
riding bridle, 151 ; run, 160 
running walk, 164 ; running walk 
training, 172 ; saddle for, 151 
"shog," 173; single-foot, 163 
slow pace, 165 ; slow pace train- 
ing, 173; Spanish trot, 183 
Spanish walk, 181 ; special work 
179 ; three-footed canter, 161 
training, 150, 171 ; training equip- 
ment, 151 ; training to stand 
176; trot, 160; trot, training 
170 ; walk, 159 ; walk, training 
168. 

Safety harness, 208 ; in horse train- 
ing, 14. 

Sanborn bit, 320. 

Score, 128. 

Scouting horse training, 177. 

Scraped, 121. 

Scraping trotter, 126. 

Secure foal's confidence, 31. 

Self-punishing harness, 204. 

Senses, feeling, 7 ; hearing, 9 ; sight, 
9 ; smell, 10 ; taste, 10. 

Senses and training, 7. 

Shackles, 221. 

Shackling a wild horse, 230. 

Shafts, teaching horse to come 
under, 82. 



Shoe-boils, 311. 

Shoe, fitting, 140. 

Shoeing, 101, 122; difficult, 300; 
fitting the shoe, 140 ; to improve 
action, 139 ; weight, 140. 

Shoulders examine, 73. 

Shying, 257 ; causes, 257 ; over- 
come, 258. 

"Side wheelers," 164. 

Sight, limited, 9 ; requires training, 
9. 

Signals, few, 16 ; make them under- 
stood, 15 ; patience, 16 ; simple, 
16. 

"Single foot," 163. 

Single, hitching, 24. 

Sit-fasts, 374. 

Sleeping standing, 313. 

Slow methods, 12. 

Slow pace, 165 ; pace training, 173'. 

Smelling vs. feeling, 8. 

Smell requires training, 10. 

Snaring a loose horse, 224. 

Sores, care of, 74. 

Sore mouth, 57. 

Spanish trot, 183. 

Spanish walk, 181 ; described, 182. 

Special senses and training, 7. 

Speed-making lessons, 124. 

Sprains, 372. 

Spurs, 154 ; army, 154 ; English, 
154 ; familiarizing, 154 ; patent, 
154; plain, 154; racing, 154; 
rowel, 155 ; unsteady under, 273 ; 
uses, 154. 

Stable, switching tail, 314 ; trot- 
ting in, 314; vices, 286; causes, 
286; overcome, 286; whims, 286. 

Stabs, 370; treatment, 371. 

Stall, hanging back in. 297 ; re- 
fusing admission, 286. 

Stand, refusing, 284; training, 176. 

"Steady," four uses, SO; teaching 
horse, SO ; what it stands for, 100. 

Stirrups, 152 ; military, 153 ; Ox- 
bow, 153 ; safety, 153 ; slipper, 
153 ; straps, 153 ; Texas, 153. 



Index 



385 



Straight cushion bit, 320. 

Straight-jacket 221 ; in use, 222. 

Strange objects, 8. 

Strength of foal, 27. 

Striking, with foot, 145, 294 ; causes, 
295 ; striking-lips, 279 ; causes, 
279 ; overcome, 279, 293. 

Stripping bridle, 283 ; causes, 283 ; 
overcome, 284. 

Stubborn horse, driving, 233 ; 
hitched, 235; leading, 232; 
teaching uses of bit, 233 ; train- 
ing, 223. 

Study individual peculiarities, 121. 

Stupefying, 231. 

Success bit, 320. 

Sugar for foal, 32 ; for gaining con- 
fidence, 32. 

Sugar-of-lead-laudanum lotio'n, 126. 

Surcingle, for driving, 64 ; for foal, 
40. 

Sweated, 121. 

Sweat pads, 335. 

Sweeny collar, 333. 

Switching tail, 265 ; in stable, 314. 

Tail, rubbing, 310 ; rubbing over- 
come, 310; sore, 268; switching, 
265 ; causes, 265 ; overcome, 
266. 

Tail-comb, 359. 

Tail-hitch, how to make, 52 ; on 
horse, 52. 

Tail over line, 268; causes, 268; 
overcome, 269. 

Tail-rope, 219 ; attached to tail, 
220. 

Tassels, 326. 

Taste, and reward, 10 ; requires 
training, 10. 

Teeth, 49 ; care of, 364 ; gnashing, 
280; in telling age, 364. 

Temper, 187; nervous, 187; stub- 
born, 187; teachable, 187; 
treacherous, 187. 

Temperament, 187. 

"Third hand," 51. 
2c 



Thorough-pin, 373. 

Throwing harness, 212. 

Throwing ropes, 216. 

Tie-strap chewing, 312. 

Time required for early training, 43. 

Timidity, of foals, 30 ; overcome by 
handhng, .30. 

Toe-weight, 122. 

Tongue, 49. 

Tongue-lolling, 278; bit,- 320; 
causes, 278 ; overcome, 278. 

Tossing and shaking head, 280. 

Track, exercise on, 113; small con- 
struction, 111 ; small training, 
111. 

Trainer, personal influence, 21 
requirements, 20. 

Training-cart, 74 ; advantages, 76 
driving, 79 ; backing, 82 ; famil 
iarizing with, 77 ; hitching to, 78 
how to make, 74 ; kicking-straps, 
78. 

Training defined, 1. 

Training vs. breaking, 1. 

Train within an inclosure, 48. 

Tricks, 183. 

Triumph bit, 320. 

Trot, 160; fox, 165; Spanish, 183; 
teaching to lead, 171 ; training, 
170 ; action, 132 ; advantage of 
early training, 117; advantages 
of early work in harness, 123 ; 
balancing, 139 ; blanketed, 121 ; 
bandaging legs, 126 ; blanketing, 
126; boots for, 114; brush sys- 
tem, 119; brushing, 145; care, 
112, 125; clicking, 143; cutting, 
145; do not tire, 115; driving, 
129; exercise, 113; exercise im- 
proves action, 148 ; exercise on 
small track, 113; fatigue, 116; 
feeding, 112; forging, 143; in- 
creasing endurance, 128 ; inter- 
fering, 145; in harness, 118; in 
single harness, 119 ; in stable, 
314; length of exercise, 116; 
night care, 127 ; objection to 



386 



Index 



cart, 118; order of feeding, 125; 
over-reaching, 143 ; physicked, 
121; plan for training, 112; rest 
two days a month, 116 ; scraped, 
121 ; scraping, 126 ; shoeing, 
122 ; shoeing to improve action, 
139, 146 ; small training track, 
111; speed-making lessons, 124; 
striking, 145; study colt, 116; 
study individual, 121 ; sugar-of- 
lead-laudanum lotion, 126 ; 
sweated, 121; training, 108; 
training to use track, 113 ; train- 
ing vehicle, 118; training while 
young, 110; toe- weight, 122; 
two- and three-year-old, 123 ; 
watering, 112, 125; young ex- 
ercised twice daily, 120. 

Troublesome to catch, 285. 

Trusting horses, 44. 

Tug, hame, 336. 

Twitch, 191, 192, 195, 197; and 
bridle, 191, 192, 195 ; bridle, 200 ; 
halter, 198; headstall, 199; lip, 
197 ; noose, 197 ; rearing, 200. 

Tying to post, 45. 

Unsteady under whip and spur, 273. 
U. S. Army bit, 320. 
Useful lessons only, 33. 
Uses of the bit, 56. 

Value, depends on training, 2 ; 
of early training, 42. 

Vehicle, backing, 80 ; familiarizing 
with, 77. 

Vices, 246, 286; backing in stall, 
297 ; balking, 249 ; biting, 292 
breaking, 265; bucking, 276 
causes, 247 ; cribbing, 269 
difficult to back, 263; difficult 
to bridle, 291 ; difficult to crup- 
per, 292 ; difficult to groom, 288 ; 
difficult to harness, 290 ; difficult 
to shoe, 300 ; halter-pulling, 269 ; 
jibbing, 252 ; kicking, 254 ; kick- 
ing in stable, 295 ; outdoor, 246 ; 



outdoor, the cause, 249 ; outdoor 
overcome, 249 ; plunging, 264 ; 
prancing, 265 ; puUing-halter, 269; 
rearing, 264, 276 ; refusing ad- 
mission to stall, 286 ; running 
away, 260 ; running back, 262 ; 
shoeing, 300 ; shying, 257 ; stable, 
286 ; striking, 295 ; study causes, 
247; switching tail, 265; tail 
over line, 268 ; wind-sucking, 300. 

Vicious horses, 186, 241 ; causes, 
186; "Cruiser," 241; handling, 
242; Galvayne method, 242; 
objects of fear, 243 ; overcome, 
244 ; Rarey method, 242 ; sub- 
duing, 241 ; temper, 187 ; train- 
ing, 186. 

Victor bit, 320. 

Vision, 49 ; limited, 9. 

Vividness of impression, 4. 

Voice, and punishment, 18 ; and 
reward, 17. 

Wagon, skeleton, 119; advantages, 
119. 

Walk, 159 ; fast training, 91 : run- 
ning, 164 ; Spanish, 181 ; training, 
168. 

Walk, trot and canter horse, 167. 

Walking horse, 167. 

War bridle, 191 ; modified, 192. 

Watering, 356 ; the trotter, 125. 

Weaving, 314. 

Weight in shoeing, 140. 

Whims, 246, 278, 286 ; blanket 
tearing, 307 ; boring, 281 ; chew- 
ing tie-strap, 312 ; crowding, 282 ; 
drenching, 315 ; eating bedding, 
312; gnashing teeth, 280; gorg- 
ing grain, 315 ; grasping bit, 279 ; 
higging, 281 ; lying down cow- 
fashion, 311; lying down in 
harness, 312 ; outdoor, 246 ; paw- 
ing, 309; pulling away, 282; 
refusing to stand, 284 ; rolling, 
306; rubbing harness, 311; rub- 
bing tail, 310 ; shaking head, 280 ; 



Index 



387 



sleeping standing, 313 ; stable, 
286 ; striking lips, 279 ; stripping 
bridle, 283; switcliing tail, 314; 
tail rubbing, 310; tearing blan- 
kets, 307 ; their causes, 278 ; 
tongue lolling, 278 ; tossing head, 
280; trotting in stable, 314; 
troublesome to catch, 285 ; weav- 
ing, 314. 

Whip, 19 ; and spurs, 154 ; caress- 
ing with, 83 ; unsteady under, 273. 

"Whoa," teaching foal, 41 ; teach- 
ing horse, 65 ; what it stands for, 
99. 

Wild horses, 223 ; acquainted with 
robes, 239 ; catching, 223 ; driv- 
ing, 233 ; familiarizing with noise, 
237; familiarizing with objects, 
237 ; Galvaynizing, 230 ; gen- 
tling, 225, 229 ; harnessing, 234 ; 
hitched, 235 ; leading, 231 ; las- 
soing, 223; noise, 238; Rarey- 
fying, 230 ; shackling, 230 ; snar- 
ing, 225 ; strange objects, 238 ; 



subduing, 236 ; teaching to lead, 
231 ; teaching uses of the bit, 
233 ; training, 223. 

Wilson bit, 320. 

Wind-galls, 373. 

Wind-puffs, 373. 

Wind-sucking, 300 ; causes, 300 ; bit, 
320 ; overcome, 300 ; see Crib- 
bing. 

Witch-hazel, 127. 

Wooden-gag, 200. 

Woodruff, Hiram, 328. 

Words to use in training, 99. 

Work horse, age to train, 46 ; driv- 
ing, 129 ; training, 44. 

Work performed on training, 47. 

Wounds, 370; treatment, 371. 

Wrong, make difficult, 11. 

W-wire bit, 320. 

Yankee bridle, 189 ; modified, 190. 
Yard training, 111. 
"Yea," teaching a horse, 97. 
Young colt, training, 5. 



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